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Unread 04-04-2010, 09:25 PM   #196
jagerlager
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1979 CJ7 
 
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I just found this thread. great job! I was still doing mine when you started.

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1979 cj-7
t-150 transmission
model 20 transfer case
dana 30 front axle - amc 20 rear axle
in line six 258

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=473436"]Frame repair thread[/URL]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=518603"]Tub repair thread[/URL]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=562223"][U]Assembly thread[/U][/URL]
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Unread 04-04-2010, 11:41 PM   #197
Coiz
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Yes jagerlager, I know. I think you were painting your frame right as I was contemplating starting to restore mine. Seeing your tub repair thread and a few other peoples builds are what convinced me to save my tub and repair it myself.

Thanks for the comment. Here's to you.
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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Unread 04-09-2010, 02:59 PM   #198
Coiz
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I did some more work on the windshield frame and front fenders. I used Marine clean to wash and degrease the parts.

Once they were clean I let them dry then soaked them with Metal Ready for about 30 minutes. I dried them off and used a hair drier on all the pieces to make sure they were bone dry and no water left in the seams or between panels.


Next came two coats of POR15. This was after the first coat.


Then they got a coat of Tie-Coat primer.


Now I have to apply body seam sealer to all the parts and give them another coat of primer.

Here are a few other parts that got some POR at the same time. From left to right; heater case backing plate, Oh ***** grab handle backing plates, fuel sender plate, clutch linkage brace, rear seat mounts, windshield hinges(yes, there are three), gas tank skid plate and my charcoal canister mounting bracket.
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Last edited by Coiz; 04-09-2010 at 03:27 PM..
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Unread 04-09-2010, 08:33 PM   #199
243
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^^^ Mike, if I did that sure as the sun comes up tomorrow I would open the garage door and all my parts would be on the floor!
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Unread 04-09-2010, 11:41 PM   #200
Coiz
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Ha, that has happened with some motorcycle stuff but not with any Jeep parts (yet). If you notice the garage door is cracked. That's the universal sign to the GF to never activate the door if it is cracked. If it's cracked, it's because I wanted it that way! Don't touch it!

Once the parts are well past tack I move them to another area to cure. Only a few more weekends of dirty work, then I get to reassemble.
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Last edited by Coiz; 05-24-2010 at 04:04 PM..
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Unread 04-10-2010, 12:38 AM   #201
Skerr
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If it's not too late, would you post up some pics of the seam sealer, before and after pics, where you are applying it, brand, etc?? It is looking very good. I felt great just priming my fender!! You gotta be jumping for joy!

Thanks
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Unread 04-10-2010, 08:16 AM   #202
ErikEastman
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I think this thing will actually scare the rust off of other things you park it next to.

So are you going to do anything creative with the wiring? You've obviously thought this project out, I'm wondering what electrical mods you have in mind.
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Unread 04-10-2010, 10:57 AM   #203
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
If it's not too late, would you post up some pics of the seam sealer, before and after pics, where you are applying it, brand, etc?? It is looking very good. I felt great just priming my fender!! You gotta be jumping for joy!

Thanks
I will post pictures of the seam sealer work. I should be able to do that later today. This has been a long time coming and I am getting pretty excited to paint. Still a lot to do though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikEastman View Post
I think this thing will actually scare the rust off of other things you park it next to.

So are you going to do anything creative with the wiring? You've obviously thought this project out, I'm wondering what electrical mods you have in mind.
That's the plan as far as rust goes.

I have acquired several different sections of wiring harnesses and relay boxes in my travels with work. I plan to go through the Mustang engine harness pin by pin to eliminate any of the unneeded circuits and shorten them to the correct length. The Mustang and the CJ have the batteries in the opposite corners so that makes for extra length for a lot of the harness. Just about everything will have a dedicated ground. I plan to use a relay box I got to power the headlights, PCM power, fuel pump and both cooling fans. I'll probably try to find another 3-5 relay box for fog lamps, hi beams and anything else that might get added on later.


As far as the Jeep's body harness I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do yet. I might save what I've got and just clean it all up or maybe just buy a new fuse panel and wire it. I don't think I want to go with Painless or the like because most of those harnesses are for the engine which I don't need or can't use. I'm planning to strategically wire up some LED lights around the interior up under the dash and under the lips of the rails in the back area. Place them so you can't see them but make it so I will actually have some interior lighting. The best I had before was one of those flex map lights you plug into the cigar lighter, it sucked. I'm thinking 4-6 of these should do the trick.


I'm also thinking about an LED light set up on a retractable reel I could mount under the dash or hood that would be long enough to reach every corner of the Jeep. Anyone who has broken something on the trail at night knows how invaluable good lighting can be. Something like the under hood lights on the Chevy trucks which extend out to 25 feet. From google: you can see the hand crank you use to wind the wire back up.


Those are just a couple of the ideas floating around in my head.
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Unread 04-10-2010, 11:14 AM   #204
ErikEastman
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Those sound like good ideas man. It is totally worth it to go through the wiring ahead of time. I still had issues but at least I knew all the splices and bad connections were out of it. Especially the engine wiring.

I'd like to add some sort of dome light to mine, before I had those stick on battery puck lights you see for sale on TV, not sure that will work with my new interior, lol.
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Unread 04-10-2010, 02:44 PM   #205
243
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Mike, those LED interior lights are a great idea!!!

I need to add some so I can find the .22 shells when they fall on the floor at night
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Unread 04-10-2010, 06:06 PM   #206
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Mike, those LED interior lights are a great idea!!!

I need to add some so I can find the .22 shells when they fall on the floor at night
Grab the extra ones you have plugged into the fuse panel!
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Unread 04-10-2010, 08:18 PM   #207
Conflict
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I was recently thinking of restoring my Jeep and came across this thread, which has completely inspired me and required me to register and post in it.

You've been at it for a while, and you've done a TON of work. It's all very impressive!

Anyway, just wondering after looking at all the stuff you've POR-15'd (which I hope to do the same), how much POR-15 have you used so far? I'm guessing your ENTIRE Jeep is covered in POR-15, from the frame to the axles to the body, so any idea on how much you've used?
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Unread 04-11-2010, 12:31 PM   #208
Coiz
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Conflict, welcome to the sight and thanks for posting. You're right that basically every part of my Jeep is covered in POR. I would have to say that by the time I get my rear bumper painted I will have used around 5 quarts of the POR15 and 1.5 quarts or so of the Blackcote top coat. I wouldn't recommend just buying a gallon jug though. The paint is a little finicky in that once it is open you really need to try and use the whole thing. Putting the lid back on will work a couple times but the lid and groove have to be perfectly clean. One drop of paint on the lid and it is permanently sealed shut. That and the cans they send are almost always dented down from the pressure of when they closed the top, this makes it much harder to open and close the same can multiple times once it is deformed. So your better off buying separate quarts or get some extra new cans you can use for storage. Once I used 3/4 of the can, put the lid back on and stored for a couple months. Went to open the can and it was partially cured. Any exposure to moisture and it starts to solidify. So the paint works very well but it is a little finicky.

Dave and Erik,
I think that one of those LED lights on the bottom lip of the dash on each side would really light up the front floorboards. The great thing is they are very low amperage so you can have them on for a long time without killing your battery. You can get all different styles of bulb sockets for them so they can be mounted just about anywhere.

To get back to the Jeep. I used another tube of Motorcraft TA-2 Body Seam Sealer to seal all the places I could get to where two or more pieces of metal are joined. This stuff retails for $45 a tube but I can get it for $27. If you can't get the Motorcraft I know that 3M also makes some good stuff. I used two tubes on the tub and one more for the rest of these parts.


I just started applying the sealer to any seam I could find. Notice the other fender in the background. I saw where I missed a small seam right after I took this picture. I looked over every piece three times after that.


Another angle from the side. It takes a little practice to get those fine little edges. That seam sealer is some thick, nasty sticky stuff.


I also went around all of the seams on the windshield frame.


No water getting into that seam.


I also hit all the seams I could get to on the front grill.


I hit some seams on the hood as well. By this time my hands were getting pretty tired from pumping that caulking gun and the gaps on the hood were fairly large so I just took off the needle tip and applied it straight from the tube. I'll sand off any excess before I apply the next coat of primer to it.


After the sealer had set I went back and put another coat of primer on some of the surfaces. I wanted to hit all the seams and anything showing filler or bare metal. I was running low on Tie-Coat primer so I had to be fairly selective on what got more paint. Here are a few of the parts getting some additional paint.


This turned out really well once it all dried.


Here is how the seam sealer is going to look under paint.


At this point everything is dry and needs to be sanded. Time to head out to the garage to sand and apply body filler to all of these parts. I'm hoping I can get the rest of the filler work done today but there are a lot of pieces. Then I just need to check final fitment before I start applying the 2k paints.
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Last edited by Coiz; 04-11-2010 at 12:51 PM..
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Unread 04-11-2010, 12:44 PM   #209
keith460
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Yep, seam sealer is your friend! Every seam where two pieces of metal meet, join or overlap needs to have sealer applied. I think I went through 4 tubes and 1qt. can of the stuff before it was all said and done.

Nice job on your project by the way!

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Unread 04-11-2010, 01:15 PM   #210
Mark4883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
^^^ Mike, if I did that sure as the sun comes up tomorrow I would open the garage door and all my parts would be on the floor!
Hahaha did that exact thing when I painted my windshield frame.
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