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post #1666 of Old 10-15-2011, 08:37 PM
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Wow, not even a single comment about the WWII Relic. I don't even know what it is.
It's a M151 MUTT...first thing I learned to drive in the Army....first used in Viet Nam and last used in the very early 90's....my unit got rid of the last one in June of '91.

That independent front suspension was a widow maker, if you weren't careful and taking a turn too fast.


Fred
Retired Army Guy

High Plains Drifter
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post #1667 of Old 10-15-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Ah, so its not a WWII relic, all the more reason I couldn't find a picture of one googling for it. I know I have seen pictures of one before, thanks for cluing me in.

I did get my replacement spare tire and already have it mounted and balanced. It took a little more weight then the rest and had 38# of road force but I decided to keep it hoping it won't cause any problems later. I also got the tires filled with Nitro. Nitrogen is less susceptible to pressure variance due to temperature changes and also bleeds out of the tires at a much slower rate. Here are some details about Nitro filling. You can see the benefits here.


Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1668 of Old 10-15-2011, 09:01 PM
jeepsterjc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Wow, not even a single comment about the WWII Relic. I don't even know what it is.
Sure I did- It's right above. Oh, hold on...

Actually I did take some time drooling over the pics, but I was busy with my real job and had to, well you know- work!

Nice pics and awesome post, Mike! Thanks!
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post #1669 of Old 10-15-2011, 09:02 PM
jeepsterjc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLynes View Post
It's a M151 MUTT...first thing I learned to drive in the Army....first used in Viet Nam and last used in the very early 90's....my unit got rid of the last one in June of '91.

That independent front suspension was a widow maker, if you weren't careful and taking a turn too fast.
Ford, right?
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post #1670 of Old 10-15-2011, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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While I had my tires and wheels off, this was a perfect time to fine tune my driveline angles.

After adding the weight of the tub, gas tank, roll bar and seat to the rear, the rear pinion angle ended up being about 2* higher than the angle of the driveshaft. This caused a take off shudder/vibration from 5-12 mph under moderate to heavy accel(which happens often ). So I needed to lower the rear pinion by ~3*. I had also found out my front caster was right at .8* when I had it on the alignment machine, so I decided to add 4* shims to the front so I would end up with close to 5* of caster. Of course I contacted our resident expert, Jim Crabtree, to manufacture some 3* and 4* shims for me.

Pieces of art just like anything else Jim makes along with the new 3/8" spring pack bolts.


At the same time, Jim convinced me to upgrade my U-bolts to a larger size. Actually that would be two larger sizes as it went from a stock CJ at 1/2", we skipped 9/16" and went straight to 5/8".


This is a great shot demonstrating the size difference.


Here is a nice picture of the entire set. Thanks again to Jim for offering this as a complete set.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1671 of Old 10-15-2011, 11:08 PM
jeepsterjc
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Too bad all that quality bling is hidden underneath!
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post #1672 of Old 10-15-2011, 11:26 PM
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Hey Mike, is your rear Detroit locker an auto locker? I'm looking at Powertrax Lockright Lockers for the front and the rear and wonder if you like them. I've talked to only one off-roader here who has one (a detroit auto in a Ford rear-end) and he seems to be happy with it on and off road.
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post #1673 of Old 10-16-2011, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Well my rear Detroit locker is the full case auto locker and I love it, they are basically bullet proof.



My front axle locker is the Detroit EZ-locker and I think is the style you are asking about. I have also had good luck with that style locker as well. Provides great traction and has held up well. It is a little noisier than the one in the rear but it does not bother me. I've heard it's a good idea to buy the hardened case pin for these style lockers. I don't know if mine is hardened or not but it has never given me a problem.


Here is a picture of my actual EZ-locker from a couple years ago.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1674 of Old 10-16-2011, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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So I got a couple coats of POR on the shims and U-bolts.




I went to start on the rear axle and saw something weird on one of the springs.


I found reminants of my 3rd gear power shift diveshaft failure. A subtle reminder to drive it nicer. The grease held those needle bearings on the spring for 360 miles worth of driving.


I put some C-clamps on the springs in preperation to remove the center spring bolt and removed the old U-bolts and spring plate.


The spring plates had to be drilled out to accept the larger 5/8" U-bolts. Here is one with 3 of the 4 holes drilled to the correct size. This picture is actually of the passenger's side front spring plate.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1675 of Old 10-16-2011, 03:57 PM
jeepsterjc
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Thanks for the info, Mike. I do like not having to buy a R&P shim sets and not having to set-up either of my diffs. That's the main reason I'm looking the EZ-Locker style- that and cost...

Thanks.
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post #1676 of Old 10-16-2011, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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No Problem Jim. I think you will be happy with them but be warned they are a little more finicky on the street. They will pop and clang pretty hard sometimes if your stressing them while turning. If you basically try to coast through most turns and wait until your pointed straight before accelerating again, you wont even know its back there. I've just learned to drive mine that way, I don't even really think about it anymore.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1677 of Old 10-16-2011, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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So after I got the U-bolts and spring plates off I removed the existing spring pack bolt and put the shims in place. I needed to lower my pinion by about 3* so I placed the thicker portion of the shim toward the rear.


Here you can see the shim isn't quite the same shape as the spring.


But as you can see the shim was thin enough to allow it to conform to the shape of the spring when I torqued down the new spring pack bolt.


After that I did the other side and reassembled everything in the rear before I moved on to the front. Here is everything disconnected and ready for the shim to be bolted on to the front passenger side spring.


I always thought my Jeep handled pretty well so I was kind of surprised to find out that I only had .8* of caster when I had it on the alignment machine. So I wanted to add another 4* to get back toward the correct caster reading. The thick part of the shim toward the front to help increase caster.


The 4* wedges were a little thicker and did conform somewhat to the face of the spring but not nearly as easy as the 3* shims did. The head of the new spring pack bolts center the axle on the spring. I installed all the new U-bolts and spring plates, snugged them up, set the Jeep on the ground and torqued in three steps up to 115 ft/lbs. If I were going to do it again I would stop at 100 ft/lbs of torque.


Driver's side front shim installed.


After that I cut all of the new spring pack bolts and U-bolts to the correct length. Does anyone have a stock pitman arm they would like to get rid of?


Driver's side.


A shot of one of the rears.


Adding the shims worked perfectly. My slow speed driveline shudder from a stop is completely gone and the steering is very stable. It tracks very well while the return-ability is improved and it tracked straight with my hands off the wheel for over a quarter mile. With the new tires, the CJ is an absolute joy to drive. I always thought the Dunlop Mud Rovers were great tires with long wear and fairly quiet as compared to most other mud terrain tires but I must say that the KM2's are very quite and have a very smooth ride. They are definitely a good tire.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1678 of Old 10-16-2011, 06:53 PM
lucdog
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Mike, you do some great pictures, along with your work.
I have a stock pitman arm you can have. Ever get close to Peoria for work? We could meet. Or I could Snail mail it. PM your address, and I'll send it up.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
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1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #1679 of Old 10-16-2011, 08:30 PM
Skerr
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Where's the pic with the new rubber!?!? Me wants...

Kerrdog
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post #1680 of Old 10-16-2011, 09:10 PM
jeepsterjc
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That went together really nice. I wonder how long those new MTs will hold their tread?? I mean... your gas pedal is digital, right... 0,1... up or down, right??
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