Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 11 - JeepForum.com
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post #151 of 1943 Old 01-23-2010, 09:28 AM
Mark4883
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Very impressive

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post #152 of 1943 Old 02-15-2010, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Windshield

Thanks for the comments guys and gecko, your ODTJ thread was a good read. That is a good looking rig.

I had originally thought that I was going to repair my rusted windshield frame. Here is what it looked like.


As you can see there was quite a bit of rust that needed to be removed including the entire front lip.


I actually spent about five hours starting to cut and repair the rusted parts of the frame.


But before I got back to it the next weekend I had stumbled across a 1983 windshield frame on Craigslist for $30. It came with both hinges and all the wiper components including a four wire wiper motor.


Notice how the wiper drives are pointing toward the passengers side.



They were both tweaked the same way. You can see how far it is bent, it should be pointing directly forward.


I was able to take off the wipers and used a deep well socket to bend them back to straight but I was nervous that the metal had been weakened due to the repeat flexing. Once I pulled them apart I quickly realized why they both bent. The locating tab in the sheet metal on the passengers side had become distorted so the entire mechanism turned and wedged itself. The motor pulled on the arm and so they both bent. This windshield frame only needed the wiper spots repaired and a small lip that is ultimately hidden by the windshield seal. It was going to be quicker and easier to use this frame so I decided to swap the wiper arm openings from my original frame to the replacement frame.


Here it is all welded on.


A picture of the welds from the back side. Not perfect but pretty good considering I couldn't really weld it from this side.


Here is how the front of it looks with all the welds grounded down. A light coat of body filler should smooth that right out.


The only other spot on the frame that was rusted enough to be replaced was the forward facing lip on the lower windshield edge you might have noticed in earlier photos. So I cut out the rusty sections and welded on a replacement metal lip.


I ended up replacing about 3/4 of the entire lip.


I gave it a quick once over with the grinder to smooth things out then put on a couple light coats of primer to keep the rust away until I get the chance to completely strip and paint the frame. I'll take care of the final sanding and filler work at that time. The entire lip portion will be hidden behind the window seal anyway.


My hood is at the Hotrod shop getting the louvers stamped this week. Hopefully I'll have an update about that in the next couple of days. I am curious to see how they turned out. I hope they look good and are not to gaudy.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #153 of 1943 Old 02-16-2010, 05:48 AM
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Nice work. I used POR-15 on the rust spots on my dish washer metal basket and it sealed them well, although my wife doesn't like the black spots all over the thing It prevents rust spots on the dishes though!
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post #154 of 1943 Old 02-23-2010, 07:05 PM
ErikEastman
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You get your hood back yet man?
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post #155 of 1943 Old 02-23-2010, 07:27 PM
SeaWulf
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dangit!

I paid more for a frame in worse condition, mine looks almost exactly the same though


nice thread
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post #156 of 1943 Old 02-26-2010, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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^^^ Thanks guys.

I did get my hood back. I had this in a louvers thread so I'll basically cut and paste it here.

I got my hood back from Hopperstad Custom's. Kerry and the guys that work with him are really nice people. He totally showed me around the shop and talked about cars for over an hour. They're building some sweet hot rods in that place. I went back to pick it up and we all sat there for another hour BS'ing. He even fired up a newly installed 351 crate motor for me while I was there.

So back to the louvers, a buddy and I had a few beers and played with the chalk a little more. I finally decided to go with a straight slant louver I drew onto the right side of the hood. I talked to Kerry and he said he could do it in 5" louvers. So I told him to go for it.

Here it is out of the truck with the chalk still on it. He advised me to strip the area first but I never did. I figured I could get the paint off easily enough with a wire wheel after the fact.


I wiped off all the chalk and took a few pictures. Here is one from the front.


Corner shot. My favorite angle.


Moving towards the driver's seat.


From inside the Jeep.


I'd have to say I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. Probably the best $20 I've spent on my Jeep. You read that right, $20 for twenty louvers and I got to meet some cool people who love hot rods. I'm going to have them cut the 2.75" hole in my dash for my factory replacement tachometer. I bought a small and large hole saw kit at HF but they skipped right over the size I needed. I hope to get motivated enough to do the minor filler work to the hood and windshield this weekend.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 04-10-2010 at 11:51 PM.
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post #157 of 1943 Old 02-26-2010, 10:50 PM
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The louvers look great! Awesome look and for chump change! That's a pretty amazing deal. How did they do it? The consistancy looks like they were machine-made.

So do the louvers provide anything other than asthetics? It looks as though they may function as a sort of vaccum when outside air is drawn across them pulling the warm air from the engine bay.

Looking good!

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post #158 of 1943 Old 02-26-2010, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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They are pressed into the hood with a hydraulic press with a stamp and die. They draw a straight line on the underside of the hood where the middle of the louver will be and stamp the first louver. Then they place the lip of the fresh stamp against the face of the die, line up the center line, and stamp the next one. They just keep moving it back to the fresh stamped lip to keep the spacing right and follow their center line to keep them straight. Pretty cool process and you're right that $20 was chump change compared to the rest of my CJ.

Yes, they do help to reduce under hood temperatures by letting the hot air to escape more freely from the engine compartment. Think how your fan pulls air through the radiator across your engine then straight into a firewall. Hot air rises so this will help during cruise and at slow speed with the electric fans on.

I read a thread with a big debate on how much they actually helped so once I get it running the engineer in me plans on using two digital thermometers under the hood and driving a set route with them open then taping them off to see how much difference it makes. I'll also check it at extended idle. Either way, I think it looks cool.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 07-11-2010 at 12:47 AM.
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post #159 of 1943 Old 02-27-2010, 07:30 AM
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Wow I can't believe $20 got you that. Looks sweet and custom man. Good call.
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post #160 of 1943 Old 02-27-2010, 03:25 PM
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Those louvers look awesome. I'd love to find a deal like that.
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post #161 of 1943 Old 02-27-2010, 04:17 PM
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Think you started something with those louvers. I like them.
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post #162 of 1943 Old 02-27-2010, 06:17 PM
CjAl
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is it just me or are the louvers on the right side crooked? they veer off twords the outside as they go forward
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post #163 of 1943 Old 02-27-2010, 06:20 PM
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Just you.

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Originally Posted by CjAl View Post
is it just me or are the louvers on the right side crooked? they veer off twords the outside as they go forward
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post #164 of 1943 Old 02-27-2010, 06:25 PM
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Excellent Mike

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #165 of 1943 Old 02-27-2010, 07:02 PM
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it looks cool, louvers are always cool
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