Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 101 - JeepForum.com

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post #1501 of 1943 Old 05-29-2011, 02:54 PM
tractor1
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Your pic of the box look so good it looks like a nice tight fit

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post #1502 of 1943 Old 05-29-2011, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Well it ends up I can't use the slip yoke off my original driveshaft. They are the same basic dimensions but my stock shaft is 16 spline and the one I broke is 32 spline.
I'm in the final stages of building up my driveshafts and have found this company has a ton to offer:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html

I've been poking around there for a bit and they have everything your driveshaft could desire!
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post #1503 of 1943 Old 05-29-2011, 07:29 PM
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Reminds me when I was 15 years old. I had my first car, a '69 Camaro. I couldn't drive it yet, so I would sit in it inside the garage, and I'd listen to the stereo! You're kinda in the same boat!! So after a long day at work, when you're tired and sore, you can sit in the CJ and get yourself a back massage!!

Looks good Mike!

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post #1504 of 1943 Old 05-30-2011, 05:32 PM
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looks good mike I'm definitely stealing that idea.
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post #1505 of 1943 Old 06-01-2011, 01:00 PM
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Hi Mike. I have a question for you.... We both have NP435 trannies and I'm soon to be installing the rear crossmember.

How low below your frame does the bottom of the 435 case extend? Not the crossmember or skid, just the belly of the case.

Thanks if you can come up with a number. I trolled through you thread and have a side-shot image that you posted. It looks pretty high or even with the bottom of your frame??

Thanks
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post #1506 of 1943 Old 06-01-2011, 10:17 PM
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hey questions what kind of wire wheels were you using during this project and what kind of welder do you use? I see a pic of what i think is a welder in a pic on post #114 on page 8. Thanks you did a great job of documenting. Im getting ready to do the same thing i can wait. You have inspired me to do it i think.
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post #1507 of 1943 Old 06-01-2011, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractor1 View Post
Your pic of the box look so good it looks like a nice tight fit
It is a nice tight fit to the inner edges of the roll bar. The outer edge of the roll bar sits about 3 inches off the inside of the body so the entire ends are open to air flow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsterjc View Post
I'm in the final stages of building up my driveshafts and have found this company has a ton to offer:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html

I've been poking around there for a bit and they have everything your driveshaft could desire!
I was looking around there and couldn't find anything that quite matched exactly like what I have. I even googled the numbers off the piece and came up empty. I'm going to stop by the shop that made it for me tomorrow and see what he says.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Reminds me when I was 15 years old. I had my first car, a '69 Camaro. I couldn't drive it yet, so I would sit in it inside the garage, and I'd listen to the stereo! You're kinda in the same boat!! So after a long day at work, when you're tired and sore, you can sit in the CJ and get yourself a back massage!!

Looks good Mike!
So what ever happened to that car? I bet you wish you still had it.

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Originally Posted by cjdogtoy View Post
looks good mike I'm definitely stealing that idea.
Thanks, it does fit in there well with that Scrambler bulkhead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsterjc View Post
Hi Mike. I have a question for you.... We both have NP435 trannies and I'm soon to be installing the rear crossmember.

How low below your frame does the bottom of the 435 case extend? Not the crossmember or skid, just the belly of the case.

Thanks if you can come up with a number. I trolled through you thread and have a side-shot image that you posted. It looks pretty high or even with the bottom of your frame??

Thanks
My NP435 hangs about 3" below the bottom of the frame but I also have a 1.5" transfer case drop. So 1.5" would be a good measurement without the drop.

In hind sight I should have removed that drop since I converted to a rear CV. It is too late to move it up now because then the engine mounts would not rest flat. I'm not about to cut and re-weld those for that 1.5" of center ground clearance. I could have easily moved the engine up as there is a ton of room under the hood. The bellhousing area has decent gap with the 1"BL and my clutch linkage lines up good. I did have to cut into the front edge of the tunnel opening to make room for the forward shifter of the NP435.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dano879 View Post
hey questions what kind of wire wheels were you using during this project and what kind of welder do you use? I see a pic of what i think is a welder in a pic on post #114 on page 8. Thanks you did a great job of documenting. Im getting ready to do the same thing i can wait. You have inspired me to do it i think.
Thanks for the comments. The best wire wheels I found for the money were from Harbor Freight. They only cost $5 a piece and literally lasted three times longer than the same $13 ones found at Farm & Fleet.

The welder I bought at the start of this project was a refurbished 220V MIG from Harbor Freight. It was $140 shipped to my door and came with the full warranty. Much to my own surprise I had never needed to use the warranty. It has been a great machine and has never let me down. I used the .035" flux core on the frame and .030" solid core with CO2 shielding gas for the smaller stuff. Actually, since converting it to solid core with CO2, I have never switched it back to use flux.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1508 of 1943 Old 06-02-2011, 09:08 AM
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post #1509 of 1943 Old 06-02-2011, 09:26 AM
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Hey Thanks for the quick response and yea i cant beleive the welder has held up good. Im not a big fan of harbor freight i only go there for stuff that cant be messed up because it was made cheaply. But would you recommend that welder for someone who is just learning to weld.
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post #1510 of 1943 Old 06-02-2011, 09:34 AM
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One more question for ya where did you get the aircraft stripper for the frame that stuff did wonders? THANKS
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post #1511 of 1943 Old 06-02-2011, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano879 View Post
Im not a big fan of harbor freight i only go there for stuff that cant be messed up because it was made cheaply. But would you recommend that welder for someone who is just learning to weld.
The HF welders are made just as cheaply as their other products. The problem that poses for a person learning to weld is that learning on inferior equipment can make it much more difficult to learn. For example, if you purchase a wire feed welder and the wire isn't feeding correctly then you might not realize it and you might not understand why your welds are so poor. Once you do realize the wire feed is a problem, then you've got to stop what you're doing and fix it. So at that point you're having to rig the thing, or buy new replacement parts. I reccomend buying a used, name brand welder for which you can get parts: Hobart, Miller, Lincoln are quality names for which you can get parts easily.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #1512 of 1943 Old 06-03-2011, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
The HF welders are made just as cheaply as their other products. The problem that poses for a person learning to weld is that learning on inferior equipment can make it much more difficult to learn. For example, if you purchase a wire feed welder and the wire isn't feeding correctly then you might not realize it and you might not understand why your welds are so poor. Once you do realize the wire feed is a problem, then you've got to stop what you're doing and fix it. So at that point you're having to rig the thing, or buy new replacement parts. I reccomend buying a used, name brand welder for which you can get parts: Hobart, Miller, Lincoln are quality names for which you can get parts easily.
Ok Thanks thats what i thought. I recently did some things that didn't need good welds they just needed to be decent and i used a stick welder and i am getting the hang of that. But what is a good price for a used name brand welder?
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post #1513 of 1943 Old 06-03-2011, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dano879 View Post
...what is a good price for a used name brand welder?
Smaller welders seem to be in demand. That's probably why they're selling them at places like Lowe's and Home Depot. I would start by learning about how much these sell for new ($500 to $700) and then check Craigslist or Ebay or the local classified ads in your area for used ones. I would think that a $650 new welder might go for $200 to $450 depending on how used it looked.

The think you always read about buying a used welder is to have the owner make some welds with it to prove it works.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #1514 of 1943 Old 06-03-2011, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dano879 View Post
Hey Thanks for the quick response and yea i cant beleive the welder has held up good. Im not a big fan of harbor freight i only go there for stuff that cant be messed up because it was made cheaply.
When it comes to Harbor Freight Tools, that's where I normally only buy what I consider a consumable. By that I mean stuff like latex gloves, grinding disks, sandpaper, HVLP spray guns and tools I may only use once then throw in the tool box. I do like their $5 battery tenders and their wire wheels.

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...One more question for ya where did you get the aircraft stripper for the frame that stuff did wonders? THANKS
I used several kinds from several places but you can get stripper at Farm & Fleet, auto parts stores and I think even Wal-Mart carries it. Safety-Kleen is probably the most common brand. Put it on a little thicker than you would think, it needs to be thick enough to work for 15 minutes before you start scraping on the paint.

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Originally Posted by dano879 View Post
But would you recommend that welder for someone who is just learning to weld....
Would I recommend the welder to someone just learning? Yes, I probably would. It was an extremely cheap way to get into welding. I found the refurbished unit for $129 with $10 s&h for the 220v model. Don't forget I also had to buy a helmet, gloves, cord and plug. That had me flux core MIG welding for ~$250. I started using my spare beer CO2 tank so that didn't cost me anything.

I haven't seen the refurbished deal in a long time but I figured that was the best way to buy one. Whatever was going to break already did plus it came with a two year warranty. My welder has been bullet proof for the last 3 years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
The HF welders are made just as cheaply as their other products. The problem that poses for a person learning to weld is that learning on inferior equipment can make it much more difficult to learn. For example, if you purchase a wire feed welder and the wire isn't feeding correctly then you might not realize it and you might not understand why your welds are so poor. Once you do realize the wire feed is a problem, then you've got to stop what you're doing and fix it. So at that point you're having to rig the thing, or buy new replacement parts. I reccomend buying a used, name brand welder for which you can get parts: Hobart, Miller, Lincoln are quality names for which you can get parts easily.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dano879 View Post
Ok Thanks thats what i thought. I recently did some things that didn't need good welds they just needed to be decent and i used a stick welder and i am getting the hang of that. But what is a good price for a used name brand welder?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Smaller welders seem to be in demand. That's probably why they're selling them at places like Lowe's and Home Depot. I would start by learning about how much these sell for new ($500 to $700) and then check Craigslist or Ebay or the local classified ads in your area for used ones. I would think that a $650 new welder might go for $200 to $450 depending on how used it looked.

The think you always read about buying a used welder is to have the owner make some welds with it to prove it works.
Like I've said before, if you plan on using it a lot or you're going to make a living with it, splurge for the better welder. If you have the means and can find a nice used welder then go for it. I looked around for about a month before I stumbled on that $140 deal when everything else I was looking at was ~$600. I figured WTH and pulled the trigger. It has sure paid off for me! Maybe I'm a lucky one? All of their welders have 4+ star reviews.

When I bought mine I figured I would use it on the Jeep and then it would collect dust on the shelf. Little did I realize how often a welder comes in handy. Either way the welding is done on the Jeep so now its' usage will go way down. I'll be keeping my eye out for a local deal on a name brand but until then I'll wait for the Chicago Electric to die.

Who knows when that will be?

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1515 of 1943 Old 06-04-2011, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, the CobraJ-7 is back in business. I stopped by the driveshaft shop where I had picked up the rear driveshaft from and showed him my broken slip yoke. I told him I saw they were $50-90 online but I couldn't find a replacement with the exact dimensions. He pulls a Spicer yoke off the shelf and looks it up in the book with a list price of $144.

He stood there for a second and says, how about $50? Make it $60 and I'll throw in a solid Spicer u-joint. So $60 and an hour later we are back in business. I took it on a quick drive up to 65mph with no vibrations so I don't have to take the entire shaft back out to be balanced.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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