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Unread 12-10-2009, 09:27 AM   #136
MDM78
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Looks Good!!!!

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Unread 12-26-2009, 03:21 PM   #137
Coiz
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Tailgate Dent

^^^ Thanks

I purchased a mixing board, gallon of Evercoat Rage Gold and a tube of Evercoat Easy Sand to use on the tub to smooth everything out. The mixing board actually cracked and broke while using it so I bought a cutting board from Farm and Fleet for $10. It is much thicker and worked much better then the $3 mixing board.


I had a couple small dents in the tailgate and figured this was the easiest piece to start repairs on to see how this filler was going to work. I have a lot of experience with Bondo on motorcycle fiberglass bodies but this is the first time I had used the Evercoat products. I must say it is much better than the Bondo brand. It costs twice as much for a reason. This is the only dent in the tailgate that was big enough to show up in the photos.


I scuffed up the primer with the dual orbital sander and applied a single coat of filler. I sanded that smooth with 60 grit sand paper then applied a coat of the Easy Sand.


I sanded that smooth with some 240 grit sand paper.


Next I applied a light coat of primer to see how it was going to look. It came out great and is now ready for a light sanding then a full coat of primer and should be ready for color.


After that I started in on the main tub.
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Unread 12-26-2009, 03:47 PM   #138
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Body Filler Work

I basically took it one side at a time. First I had to scuff up all the paint to give the body filler something gritty to bite onto. I used a dual action orbital sander to scuff everything up. You can see how wavy the passenger's rear quarter panel is. I tried to get a nice scuff on the paint without going all the way through the POR layer to the bare metal.


I spread on the first layer pretty thin. You actually want to press very hard and make it so thin that it appears that the metal is wet. Then you go back and apply the filler to where you are actually starting to build up some material.


If you time it right you can knock off the high spots of the filler without too much effort. You want to do the major sanding as the filler is still a little gummy. If you wait until it is fully cured, the amount of sanding needed is dramatically increased. So I hit it with my 17" air sander with 60 grit sandpaper to complete the initial smoothing.


You can see how the light color gold is basically smooth while the darker color yellow is where the low spots remain.


Here I applied the second coat and made it just a bit thicker.


After sanding this layer you can see how most of it smoothed out with only a couple low spots remaining.


Here I applied one final layer of filler to fill in the last of the low spots.


After that was sanded and the side of the body was flat and smooth, I applied a light coat of Easy Sand. This is filler which is used to cover light imperfections and any pinholes left in the main body filler. It is a bit easier to sand then the Rage Gold and dries to a white color with just a light blue tint from the hardening cream.


I had so much Easy Sand and loved they way it worked so I actually decided to just apply a light coat to the entire tub were any filler was applied. Here is the passenger's side basically done and sanded down with 240 grit sand paper. I'll apply primer to see the final product then complete any last minute touch ups before I apply color in the spring.
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Unread 12-26-2009, 04:56 PM   #139
Coiz
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Drivers Side Filler Work

I started in on the driver's side. You can see the scratches in the primer where I ran my flat edge up and down the side to see where the high and low spots were.


I scuffed up the primer with my dual action orbital sander and put on a light first coat. I sanded it out then applied a slightly heavier second coat. Here it is waiting for the filler to cure for another 5-10 minutes before I could start sanding.


I sanded out the second coat but I still had some low spots.


I spread on another coat and hoped it was thick enough to cover the low spots. I could have applied the filler much thicker and reduced the number of times I had to apply and sand but I was trying to avoid putting on more filler than I actually needed.


Here is one final coat of the main filler to smooth everything out.


I applied some Easy Sand to the obvious spots in the driver's side as well.


Here is a picture of the driver's side with the Easy Sand applied and sanded smooth with 240 grit sand paper.


Here is a picture of the filler work done on the cowl below the windshield. This was actually one of the easiest places to repair.


There were a few other spots that were fixed but nothing worth going into great detail over. It took me about three days worth of filler work taking my time to get most of it done. I know I will have to go back and do some final touch up with the filler and apply more primer before I apply color but I am at least 90% done with the filler work. The main areas I have left to smooth out are the straight edges on the top edges on the rear of the tub. I also have two small spots on the hood and the windshield frame to complete. I should be able to get both of those done in one day but probably won't get to those for a couple months.
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Unread 12-26-2009, 09:09 PM   #140
bullitt1968
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Looks Great!!! Heck of an Engine. I have one in a 67 Mustang coupe and it runs like a champ. It makes my big block look slow sometimes.
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Unread 12-27-2009, 11:09 AM   #141
Coiz
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Applying Primer

^^^ Thanks. I also love the 5.0L.

Since I got the majority of the filler work done I wanted to get a coat or two of primer on the tub so it was not sitting naked throughout the entire winter months. I wanted to seal the body filler because it is porous and reduce the risk of any flash rust on the parts that were sanded down enough to show bare metal.

Here it is after two light coats of primer out of my HVLP gun.


What do you think? Looks a little straighter then when I first started huh?


This picture shows the lip that I will straighten out just a bit better when I do my final filler work in the spring. The primer was a little light in places so you can see slight color differences but the panel is completely straight when checked with a straight edge.


Here is another view of the passenger's side from the front.


Here is a good picture of the driver's side.


Here is one last picture from the driver's rear corner.


Here is how she will sit for the next couple of months.


I will finish repairing the windshield frame then complete the main filler work on it and the hood over the next couple of months. After that I will complete all of the final touch up, prime and paint once it is warm enough to do so. I still need to cut a hole in my dash for a factory tachometer and I need to paint my fuel tank and skid plate so I can install them onto the frame. After that the chassis will basically be done. I am looking forward to getting paint on the body and getting this thing put back together. It is really coming along and I am definitely upbeat about the progress I have made to this point. I'm currently in Colorado for the holidays and am enjoying taking a little time away from the Jeep. I should be recharged and ready to dive in head first once I get home and will work on the small details until the weather cooperates for me to paint.
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Unread 01-08-2010, 06:27 PM   #142
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wow nice! good work
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Unread 01-09-2010, 09:06 PM   #143
tomthbomb
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Do you know why the PO welded in the CJ8 bulkhead?

Maybe to stiffen up the body?

I have one bolted into my '78 with an '80 tub but I have a CJ8 half cab.

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Unread 01-18-2010, 01:35 PM   #144
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I'm not sure but I have suspicion the PO might have used the Jeep as a Mud Racer, I never actually met the PO. It had a ton of Clifford parts and head work and the front axle was a 3:54 while the rear was a 3:73. He added the front hoop and lower back bar to the roll bar along with the bulkhead. I guess he welded it because it was easier and he figured it was never coming out. That's why I tack welded it back in and sealed it with the seam sealer. I guess it does add some body support but the whole panel is actually pretty light, it can't weigh more than just a couple pounds.
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Unread 01-18-2010, 03:27 PM   #145
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Mike, Can't wait to see some color. Project is looking great.
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Unread 01-22-2010, 08:28 PM   #146
Coiz
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Thanks Fatman, I really do appreciate it. I had spent hours looking at your various threads for inspiration and ideas.

I haven't done anything to the Jeep since I have been back from the holidays. I've been playing travel and catch up with work. I going to try to get out to the garage for a couple hours this weekend to get me back into the swing of things.
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Unread 01-22-2010, 10:29 PM   #147
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Coiz,

The tub looks incredible! The time you're putting into this project is really showing. I'm not far away from this point in my own build so your diligence and attention to detail (not to mention your ability) is inspiring.

I'll be going the HVLP route as well (never used one before) but am a little anxious about spraying primer, paint and especially POR-15 in my garage without some type of enclosure to contain the overspray. Did you spray the POR-15 in your garage? Did you take any steps to prevent overspray?

Thanks and I'm looking forward to your progress updates!
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Unread 01-23-2010, 12:04 AM   #148
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Thanks for the comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRex View Post
Did you spray the POR-15 in your garage? Did you take any steps to prevent overspray?
Everything you see in this thread has been painted in my garage. I have always worn a respirator and had the doors open enough for ventilation. If there was not enough breeze, I would use box fans for additional air flow.

As far as over spray, you either need to hang plastic sheeting all around the work area (make a spray booth) or place it over anything you don't want covered in dust. You can see in my pictures where I have things covered with the light clear plastics and the tarps. I got all of the coverings cheap at the local Harbor Freight but after two years of working on this thing everything was still covered in dust*. If you care about your garage flooring you should also line the floor with cardboard or wet it with water before and after you paint. You have to be careful not to get a freshly painted part wet. POR cures with moisture, a drop of water can screw up the whole area. If you don't care about it turning your floor black, just let er rip. It makes a very strong floor covering. Probably as strong as the epoxy floor I put down.

*Tangent

*For all of you computer geeks:
My MB of two years just died on my main computer after a "successful" bios upgrade. While that is getting RMA'ed I decided to pull the computer out of my garage back into my house. Before I brought it into the house I pulled the side panel off to blow it out. I don't know why I didn't take pictures but it is probably better that I didn't. The power supply, case, CPU and video card fans had been pumping two years worth of Jeep restoration work through its gills. It was not a pretty site.
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Unread 01-23-2010, 07:04 AM   #149
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I've got my computer in the shop too. Makes me wonder now.

The tub sure looks great and to think you're not even finished yet. I'll be watching.
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Unread 01-23-2010, 08:03 AM   #150
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This was a great read! I sure can relate to all the hard work it takes to complete such a project. I did the same to a '97 TJ and although i was lucky to have the tub in much better shape than your CJ, it still was a massive undertaking. AND, like you, i had the weather to contend with

It is an almost surreal experience isn't it to take a vehicle right down to the last bolt, clean every single piece and then put it back together again!!!! I absolutely loved the challenge and would love to do it again some day. I learnt allot and would do many things differently if i were to do it all over again.....

AND, like you, i was constantly trying to keep the shop clean all the while knowing full well that each and every step would turn my shop into a complete disaster zone!!!

LINK TO MY ODTJ restore

Good Luck with the rest of the project!
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