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Unread 02-11-2013, 09:59 AM   #16
Renegade578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S76 View Post
Just now saw the bushing pic.

Do you think that pilot shaft bushing could have goten gotten a little mushroomed on the install making it tight on the shaft?

That would keep the input spinning and act like the clutch was not disengaging.

Edit--Does the plastic clutch installer tool still fit the crank bushing well?

Hindsight.......20/20

When you first had the prob. You could have tried to start it in gear with the clutch in. If it's the bushing draging it would have started. If it's truley the clutch not disengaging the Jeep would move on the starter.
That was one thing I forgot to mention. I had a really hard time getting the new pilot bushing in. There was a small bur on the inside of the crank shaft that I tried to sand down. I froze the bushing before installing and even heated up the crank, but the bur was making it very difficult to get the bushing in straight. I eventually was able to get it started straight, but as you can see from the picture it took excessive force. I know the new bushing fit the input shaft before installation, but once the new bushing was installed the clutch alignment tool did not fit. I had a feeling something wasn't right at this point, but continued anyway. All signs are pointing to this being the source of my problem.

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Unread 02-11-2013, 10:26 AM   #17
keith460
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I see the damage on the pilot bushing as well and would definitely suspect that is the cause of your problems. Heating the crankshaft and freezing the bushing is a good thing but oilite bushings should be installed with a soft piece of aluminum or wood dowel rod and nothing harder. Don't forget to installed an oil soaked piece of foam inside the crankshaft to lubricate the bushing for at least the next 100,000 miles.... the factory does.
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Unread 02-11-2013, 10:35 AM   #18
Fireblade
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I had the same problem and it was the pilot bushing, in my case it was just because a friend of mine machined it and we don't let enough gap !
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Unread 02-11-2013, 10:50 AM   #19
S76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Don't forget to installed an oil soaked piece of foam inside the crankshaft to lubricate the bushing for at least the next 100,000 miles.... the factory does.
I never knew that. Thanks for the tip.

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Unread 02-11-2013, 11:32 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460
I see the damage on the pilot bushing as well and would definitely suspect that is the cause of your problems. Heating the crankshaft and freezing the bushing is a good thing but oilite bushings should be installed with a soft piece of aluminum or wood dowel rod and nothing harder. Don't forget to installed an oil soaked piece of foam inside the crankshaft to lubricate the bushing for at least the next 100,000 miles.... the factory does.
Do you do that on the self lubricating ones as well Keith?
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Unread 02-11-2013, 11:46 AM   #21
keith460
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Self lubricating meaning what? Oilite? Yes.

Oilite bushings excrete small amounts of oil when temperature rises from friction. It must be replenished with oil that gets spent. When the bushings cool down, it absorbs the oil but it has to come from somewhere.
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Unread 02-11-2013, 11:57 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460
Self lubricating meaning what? Oilite? Yes.

Oilite bushings excrete small amounts of oil when temperature rises from friction. It must be replenished with oil that gets spent. When the bushings cool down, it absorbs the oil but it has to come from somewhere.
Oilite must be the term. The last 2 I did that were self lubricating said not to put additional oil on them. Guess it can't hurt, was just wondering.
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Unread 02-11-2013, 12:08 PM   #23
keith460
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Here's an excerpt from the Jeep Factory Service manual:
pilot-bushing.jpg  
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Unread 02-11-2013, 01:32 PM   #24
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Tried to find the install instructions on the last clutch I did but came up empty. Positive the last 3 I put in said not to lubricate them, but I am sure it cant hurt. Were the OEM ones Olite? If not maybe thats why the FSM says to install a wick.
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Unread 02-11-2013, 02:00 PM   #25
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I've always soaked my pilot bushing in 5w motor oil for about a week prior to installing. The material is porous and soaks up oil like a sponge.

Rather than removing the bushing, try to carefully flap the inside out of any burrs etc.
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Unread 02-11-2013, 02:57 PM   #26
Renegade578
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Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
I've always soaked my pilot bushing in 5w motor oil for about a week prior to installing. The material is porous and soaks up oil like a sponge.

Rather than removing the bushing, try to carefully flap the inside out of any burrs etc.
What do you mean by "flap"?
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Unread 02-11-2013, 03:39 PM   #27
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You are better of using a reamer or a drill bit that fits the ID of the bushing. Do it by hand if you can using oil for lubricant.
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Unread 02-11-2013, 03:53 PM   #28
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Do yourself a favor and replace the bushing. They are cheap. You should not have to use much force to get it in. Your old one is toast.
When you pulled the trans back off, did it come apart easily or did you really have to work at it?
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Unread 02-11-2013, 03:56 PM   #29
Renegade578
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Originally Posted by cj5huntingrig View Post
Do yourself a favor and replace the bushing. They are cheap. You should not have to use much force to get it in. Your old one is toast.
When you pulled the trans back off, did it come apart easily or did you really have to work at it?
Definitely had to work at it. Took about 2 hours.....
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Unread 02-11-2013, 04:14 PM   #30
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When you installed it did you have to pull it in with the bolts?
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