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Old 04-25-2004, 05:32 PM   #1
certifiablejeep
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clutch pedal catch height

Just curious since I have never actually driven my CJ until today. I was having a ***** of a time putting in the clutch linkage and I finally solved that mess and got the thing running and moving (after I figured out the transfer case was in N)

Anyway, when I drive it, I am grinding getting into Reverse, but not first. The pedal grabs about 1/4" off the floor. I know that is common in some cars, but every 4X4 I have driven never had it this low.

I am thinking that I need to adjust the clutch linkage some since I just put it on, but I don't know what direction would produce the correct results.

Any comments would help.

I am just so happy this thing is finally running and driving after many years of sitting so unhappy in the garage.

cb

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Old 04-26-2004, 07:27 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb4158
Just curious since I have never actually driven my CJ until today. I was having a ***** of a time putting in the clutch linkage and I finally solved that mess and got the thing running and moving (after I figured out the transfer case was in N)

Anyway, when I drive it, I am grinding getting into Reverse, but not first. The pedal grabs about 1/4" off the floor. I know that is common in some cars, but every 4X4 I have driven never had it this low.

I am thinking that I need to adjust the clutch linkage some since I just put it on, but I don't know what direction would produce the correct results.

Any comments would help.

I am just so happy this thing is finally running and driving after many years of sitting so unhappy in the garage.

cb
You need to lengthen the rod. This will raise the catch point futher from the floor.
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxg342
You need to lengthen the rod. This will raise the catch point futher from the floor.
I used a 10mm socket as a spacer
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Old 04-26-2004, 01:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aphelion79
I used a 10mm socket as a spacer

Wait, now I'M interested too. You mean you just made the linkage rod longer with a socket? Why didn't I think of that? My clutch disengages very low to the floor.
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Old 04-26-2004, 01:26 PM   #5
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I am confused now.
I was envisioning putting a socket under the clutch pedal to use as a spacer as to where the point of catching should be...

I just don't know wheter or not to lie it on it's side, or the long way. If it is a deep socket, then it is a lot longer then 10mm.

cb
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Old 04-30-2004, 09:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb4158
I am confused now.
I was envisioning putting a socket under the clutch pedal to use as a spacer as to where the point of catching should be...

I just don't know wheter or not to lie it on it's side, or the long way. If it is a deep socket, then it is a lot longer then 10mm.

cb
No no, I put it on the end of the pushrod itself... not very useful for long term but it will do amazingly it hasn't ever fallen out...
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Old 04-30-2004, 09:13 AM   #7
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BTW, dont mess with the pedal itself... if you have hydraulic clutch then it is DIRECTLY because the pushrod itself isnt long enough... the 10mm socket fits pretty good over the end (bty this is a socket used with those tiny ratches, smaller than 3/8 i believe?) of the pushrod, and the end the ratchet goes in fits nicely in the depression on the Y fork... lol
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Old 04-30-2004, 07:27 PM   #8
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clutch advice

A socket, what the hell. Don't do that silly, just loosen the jam nut on the rod that pushes the clutch fork on the bellhousing andd make the link longer, there's about an inch or more of adjustment there, at least on my mechanical clutch linkage there is.

It's really very easy, if its not rusted on there. Make sure that the spring that holds the rod into the fork is in good shape too, you lose that, you"ll be shifting without a clutch. Leave about a 1/8 to a 1/4" of pedal play at the top of the pedal before you start to engage the clutch, or you will be riding the throwout bearing on the clutch all the time. It will then begin to howl after a while and cause quite a bit of aggravation when you comprehend how much work it is to replace that booger.

jeepmor

Last edited by jeepmor; 04-30-2004 at 07:30 PM..
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Old 05-01-2004, 05:03 PM   #9
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Dude, listen to what the jeepmor guy said. Its so easy to adjust the jam nut on the linkage. When I installed my new clutch and flywheel the pedal adjustment took like 10 minutes and you are doing it properly. Of course if you like to "jerryrig" then do the socket method. (I don't mean to bust on that method).
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Old 05-04-2004, 10:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miterez
Dude, listen to what the jeepmor guy said. Its so easy to adjust the jam nut on the linkage. When I installed my new clutch and flywheel the pedal adjustment took like 10 minutes and you are doing it properly. Of course if you like to "jerryrig" then do the socket method. (I don't mean to bust on that method).
Well actually if you have a hydraulic clutch, heres the real reason it doesn't work... (well mine at least, lol) its the slave cylender's fault! Hydraulic clutches automatically adjust themselves (sounds odd but there is some truth to that, concidering the way they work). My slave cylender is actually sucking air and leaking slightly causing air to get into the system... a mere $20.70 will replace the old one and eliminate the socket entirely! (Because I'm not compressing air before the slave actually starts moving the pushrod when its supposed to and pushing it all the way out)

So BLEED YOUR CLUTCH! Just like you bleed ur breaks only easier Try that first...
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Old 05-04-2004, 11:21 AM   #11
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Mine is adjusted as far as it will go and the clutch still doesn't disengage until the pedal is nearly on the floor.
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Old 05-05-2004, 09:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsarecool
Mine is adjusted as far as it will go and the clutch still doesn't disengage until the pedal is nearly on the floor.
I really would recommend getting a longer pushrod though, thats what the trouble is. Make sure your cylenders are bled though before trying to figure out what length you need.

My new cylender came with a longer pushrod, BUT it, by itself, was still too short and having the same problem your having now, barely disengaging the clutch... if I added the socket to that, it engaged WAY to early, so I kept my old setup with the old pushrod 'n socket... now its right in the middle with a non leaky slave... its all about finding the right length... (just ask your girlfriend )


heh, an idea if you want to fab something up... find a threaded rod, and a threaded sleve that will screw over that, and add a nut to the backside to lock the sleve... = an adjustable pushrod!
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