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#1 | |
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Bicentennial Nickel
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clutch pedal catch height
Just curious since I have never actually driven my CJ until today. I was having a ***** of a time putting in the clutch linkage and I finally solved that mess and got the thing running and moving (after I figured out the transfer case was in N)
Anyway, when I drive it, I am grinding getting into Reverse, but not first. The pedal grabs about 1/4" off the floor. I know that is common in some cars, but every 4X4 I have driven never had it this low. I am thinking that I need to adjust the clutch linkage some since I just put it on, but I don't know what direction would produce the correct results. Any comments would help. I am just so happy this thing is finally running and driving after many years of sitting so unhappy in the garage. cb
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#2 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
__________________
'84 CJ-7 Junkyard TBI 360/T18/D300, 4" 4WDH Lift, D44 front with ARB and HS/D44 Rear w/ Detroit, 4.56s, 36" Iroks, TFI, TJ flares, Homemade rocker guards and bumpers with swing out, Optima Yellow Top, M8000, York OBA, 6pt cage "when you're up to your *** in alligators, it is hard to remember that your original intention is to drain the swamp" |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#4 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Wait, now I'M interested too. You mean you just made the linkage rod longer with a socket? Why didn't I think of that? My clutch disengages very low to the floor. |
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#5 |
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Bicentennial Nickel
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I am confused now.
I was envisioning putting a socket under the clutch pedal to use as a spacer as to where the point of catching should be... I just don't know wheter or not to lie it on it's side, or the long way. If it is a deep socket, then it is a lot longer then 10mm. cb |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
amazingly it hasn't ever fallen out... ![]() |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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BTW, dont mess with the pedal itself... if you have hydraulic clutch then it is DIRECTLY because the pushrod itself isnt long enough... the 10mm socket fits pretty good over the end (bty this is a socket used with those tiny ratches, smaller than 3/8 i believe?) of the pushrod, and the end the ratchet goes in fits nicely in the depression on the Y fork... lol
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#8 |
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Registered User
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clutch advice
A socket, what the hell. Don't do that silly, just loosen the jam nut on the rod that pushes the clutch fork on the bellhousing andd make the link longer, there's about an inch or more of adjustment there, at least on my mechanical clutch linkage there is.
It's really very easy, if its not rusted on there. Make sure that the spring that holds the rod into the fork is in good shape too, you lose that, you"ll be shifting without a clutch. Leave about a 1/8 to a 1/4" of pedal play at the top of the pedal before you start to engage the clutch, or you will be riding the throwout bearing on the clutch all the time. It will then begin to howl after a while and cause quite a bit of aggravation when you comprehend how much work it is to replace that booger. jeepmor Last edited by jeepmor; 04-30-2004 at 07:30 PM.. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Dude, listen to what the jeepmor guy said. Its so easy to adjust the jam nut on the linkage. When I installed my new clutch and flywheel the pedal adjustment took like 10 minutes and you are doing it properly. Of course if you like to "jerryrig" then do the socket method. (I don't mean to bust on that method).
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
So BLEED YOUR CLUTCH! Just like you bleed ur breaks only easier Try that first... |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Mine is adjusted as far as it will go and the clutch still doesn't disengage until the pedal is nearly on the floor.
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#12 | |
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Registered User
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My new cylender came with a longer pushrod, BUT it, by itself, was still too short and having the same problem your having now, barely disengaging the clutch... if I added the socket to that, it engaged WAY to early, so I kept my old setup with the old pushrod 'n socket... now its right in the middle with a non leaky slave... its all about finding the right length... (just ask your girlfriend )heh, an idea if you want to fab something up... find a threaded rod, and a threaded sleve that will screw over that, and add a nut to the backside to lock the sleve... = an adjustable pushrod! ![]() |
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