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Unread 12-30-2006, 06:48 PM   #1
AMC Power
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Clutch Linkage

I am converting from the AMC 150 to the 258 and I have the hydraulic clutch. Will that still work with the 258 or do I have to buy all new linkage. I am really confused on how it all works. The four cylinder's clutch fork was enclosed inside the bellhousing and the slave cylinder pushed it when the clutch pedal was depressed. There was no other linkage. I have a feeling that this is going to change with the 258 because the clutch fork sticks out of the bellhousing and a mechanical linkage will depress it. What does the hydraulic master cylinder do then?? Is it still needed? Help me please!

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Unread 12-30-2006, 09:36 PM   #2
molsenice
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just a thought as I am no expert here and I can only visualize the situation - what if you were to fabricate a mounting plate for the slave to push the fork - as long as it is in the right location - it will push. I hope ya have the ability to cut and weld at least angle iron or this could be tough - might be an after market plat just for this purpose
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Unread 12-30-2006, 10:22 PM   #3
SQF1
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From what I can see from online searching... All you need to do is swap out the 150 slave to the 258 style slave and replace your hydraulic line with a later version. The master will be the same.
Here is the 150 style slave





And here is the 258 style (also what I have on my 304 w/T150)


I bought both slaves and hydraulic lines for my setup as fabbing it all myself I didn't know which would be better. I ended up using the style you need and having the style you already have sitting on the bench still, otherwise I would just give em to you.
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Unread 12-31-2006, 07:19 AM   #4
AMC Power
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I bought a new hydraulic line, but I still need to purchase the new slave cylinder for the 258. Where does the slave cylinder bolt onto the bellhousing at?
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Unread 12-31-2006, 08:15 AM   #5
BESRK
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Mine bolts right to the bellhousing "lip" in-line with the clutch fork. If you were looking at it from dead front, it would be at about the 4 o'clock position. No drilling or anything.
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Unread 12-31-2006, 05:06 PM   #6
gosupes
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Somthing like that. And SQF1 was correct, just a new line and slave, use your old master.
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It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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Unread 12-31-2006, 06:46 PM   #7
SQF1
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What bell housing is that for? Just curious
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Unread 01-01-2007, 09:07 AM   #8
AMC Power
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Thanks! I like the clear picture.
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Unread 01-01-2007, 09:21 AM   #9
BESRK
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I ditched that plastic tip at the end of the clutch rod too.. made a longer rod instead. I had that tip split open on me in traffic one time. Was sitting there in first gear and all of a sudden, the Jeep started moving forward. Almost hit the car in front of me. I killed it by stepping on the brakes and lugging the engine. Once I figured out what was wrong, I had to drive home with no clutch pedal.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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Unread 01-01-2007, 10:38 AM   #10
gosupes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
I ditched that plastic tip at the end of the clutch rod too.. made a longer rod instead.
Yeah, I did the same thing. I had just enough engagement to get home, just a little rough getting into first. Been good ever since.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SQF1
What bell housing is that for? Just curious
That was a T5 but it looks similar on most any bell housing.
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1986 CJ7, 4.2 w/4.0 head, TFI-HEI hybrid ignition, Clifford manifold w/Holley 390 w/cold air intake, OBA, 4.5" lift, Woody CV shaft and Tattons in front, 4.10 gears - lunchbox in front, Truetrac in the back, twin-sticked, blower upgrade for running topless, trying to keep it simple.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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