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Unread 09-03-2013, 04:46 PM   #31
LumpyGrits
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Don't forget to support the back of the engine too
LG

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Unread 09-04-2013, 12:51 AM   #32
only in a jeep cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
The other advantage is it aids in lining everything back up to re-stab.

I'm actually kinda surprised no one else has stumbled onto this method.

Matt
I have several problems with this method.
The engine/transmission/t case are pitched back at an angle. To slide the pan straight back (rolling on a jack) would result in the input shaft retaining the upward angle, but while not changing the height to compensate for the pitch.

What about the weight transfer of the transmission and tcase in relation to the one mount it is now balancing on. If it tilts or rolls forward or back , the pan may still be flat on the jack, but the now super heavy combo is not...

I also have major concern with not only the weight of the full combo, but if it comes off the rail side, shifts wrong, tilts wrong, OR drops off the jack while being moved, that's it for any body part between it and the concrete.

In MY opinion only, with the pan off, I can get to the driveshaft bolts way easier, tilt the transmission down a few degrees to easily reach the top bellhousing bolts, check the trans mount and torque arm bushings, and not fight the weight of pushing that massive combo forward, while trying to be gentle in lining up the splines on a new clutch and new pilot bearing.

I'm NOT saying your way is wrong and NOT trying to argue with you on who's right or wrong. BOTH right for each person. Ive done the combo remove and install before and its was way HARDER for me. If the engine is out, I will install the transmission to the engine before it goes in and then shoehorn them both in. Again, way easier to handle it, align the bolts, tighten then, etc. The t case goes on the rear very easy after its in....
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Unread 09-04-2013, 08:21 AM   #33
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
I have several problems with this method.
The engine/transmission/t case are pitched back at an angle. To slide the pan straight back (rolling on a jack) would result in the input shaft retaining the upward angle, but while not changing the height to compensate for the pitch.
You only have to slide it out far enough to clear the input shaft from the pressure plate, perhaps an inch or so. At that point, there's enough wiggle room, that the exact angle isn't critical.

Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
What about the weight transfer of the transmission and tcase in relation to the one mount it is now balancing on. If it tilts or rolls forward or back , the pan may still be flat on the jack, but the now super heavy combo is not...
My T-19 only clears the skid by about 1/8" at the very front of the skid, so that's as far as it could ever rock forward, which it never did. Since the trans is much heavier than the t-case, rocking backwards is very unlikely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
I also have major concern with not only the weight of the full combo, but if it comes off the rail side, shifts wrong, tilts wrong, OR drops off the jack while being moved, that's it for any body part between it and the concrete.
Again, that's where having the skid attached, and leaving it jacked up near the frame, eliminates virtually all possibility of the assembly shifting, tilting, or rolling off the jack. It simply can't go anywhere, unless you accidently release the jack.

Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
In MY opinion only, with the pan off, I can get to the driveshaft bolts way easier, tilt the transmission down a few degrees to easily reach the top bellhousing bolts, check the trans mount and torque arm bushings, and not fight the weight of pushing that massive combo forward, while trying to be gentle in lining up the splines on a new clutch and new pilot bearing.
If you re-read my explanation, you'll see that I detach the trans/t-case/skid assembly from the bell-housing, then slide it out of the way. Once it's out of the way, reaching the bell-housing bolts is easy.

Yes, there are several ways to skin this cat, and none of them are right or wrong. I'm just relating what worked for me, having done this exercise 3 times in less than a month. This method took me less than half the time of removing the components separately, and I felt much safer while doing it.

Your mileage may vary.

Matt
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Unread 09-10-2013, 12:26 PM   #34
bkeese
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Well I dropped my trans last week and fround my problem or two. The spring pack on my disc exploded, popped the rivits. I didn't expect that out of a Sachs disc. On furthur examination, I notice the pilot bearing was dust, only 2 needles left. Could this cause the disc to come apart?
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Unread 09-10-2013, 01:09 PM   #35
LumpyGrits
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YUP.
Better check endplay on the input shaft and replace the seal now also.

LG
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