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Oconee Off-Road Now Offering Zone Off-Road Products!!!RIGID LED Light Blowout Sale - All Sizes, All Series, all USA Standard Chromoly Front Axle Shaft Kits with Dana 30 4

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Unread 09-03-2013, 11:44 AM   #16
LumpyGrits
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IF, you can find a REAL input shaft from a tranny shop for your tranny. That will help much, as the plastic tool in the kit ain't the best.
LG

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Unread 09-03-2013, 11:59 AM   #17
walkerhoundvm
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I figured out a different approach the last time, and it was by far easier than dropping the separate components. Here's how...
Oooh...I'll have to try that next time.

Off topic, Matt - did you know we can get collector plates in CO now? As long as it's >32 yrs old and emissions tested. Sorry, had to share since I knew you had an 81 as well.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 12:23 PM   #18
Matt1981CJ7
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Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Oooh...I'll have to try that next time.
If the OP only saw how easy this is, he wouldn't hesitate to do it himself.

A floor jack and a standard set of wrenches are all that are required to replace a clutch in a CJ. Unless he takes his flywheel off, in which case he'll need a torque wrench.

Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Off topic, Matt - did you know we can get collector plates in CO now? As long as it's >32 yrs old and emissions tested. Sorry, had to share since I knew you had an 81 as well.
That's good to know, thanks. Unfortunately, I'd have to stick the EGR and air pump back on to pass emissions. The air pump won't work with the serpentine setup on my 360, so I'll be forced to go FI if/when emissions come out this way.

Matt
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Unread 09-03-2013, 12:30 PM   #19
hp_lovecraft
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Like others, I got the "cheap kit" at Advance Auto. It was $130 or so, plus discounted by whatever code I could find on the internet.
Beyond that, I did not use any special tools. I used an ordinary floor jack below the trans, as well as a strap wrapped around, OVER the roll bar, to a come-a-long hooked to a tree. The strap had 2 purposes. First, to keep the trans/xcase from tipping of the jack, and secondary was help in alignment.

This is not the best, nor safe way to do it. But it did work for me.

The biggest problems I had was removing the top 2 bolts on the bell-housing. I cheated and CUT OPEN the tunnel cover to allow access to those bolts. I also made sure I put a 2x4 in front of the engine. When the trans/case comes off, the whole engines tips forward... and it could ruin the radiator.

Also, sliding out the trans/case is a scary moment. It is the time when serious damage can occur if it does not come straight out. This is where the strap helped me. I slide it back, lowered, then PUSHED the Jeep forward a bit so I could work on the bell-housing/clutch, leaving the trans/case/splate ready to pop back in.

This is where you can make all sorts of bad shortcuts. I didn't resurface the flywheel, or remove the pilot bushing. and worst of all, when I could not get the trans to slide all the way back in... it tighted the bolts to force it in. All three shortcuts can, and have resulted in serious problems for others. I just didnt care. When things break, I fix them and move on. Sometimes I fix the things that broke fixing other things.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 12:36 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
That's good to know, thanks. Unfortunately, I'd have to stick the EGR and air pump back on to pass emissions.
You don't have pass an emissions test where you're at, so you wouldn't have to put anything on to get collectors plates. The new rules for collectors plates and emisisons still only apply in those areas where emissions are required. For you it's still N/A. The one thing that collectors plates does save is since you get five years of registration all at one shot you only pay one year's worth of the stupid road and bridge "fees" that our wonderful former Gov. Ritter tacked on.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 12:38 PM   #21
Ken4444
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Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
IF, you can find a REAL input shaft from a tranny shop for your tranny. That will help much, as the plastic tool in the kit ain't the best.
LG
After having difficulty getting my T5 back in, I got the old input shaft from the T5 to see if it would fit. Luckily, it did. It was good confirmation that the plastic alignment tool did OK (for me at least). Ultimately, my problem was I needed a helper to work the clutch pedal a few time while I pushed the trans in. That did the trick and I was finally able to get the trans 100% of the way in.

Having a helper work the clutch pedal was a trick I got here on Jeepforum, and is one reason why this forum and the people here are so great.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #22
Matt1981CJ7
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You don't have pass an emissions test where you're at, so you wouldn't have to put anything on to get collectors plates. The new rules for collectors plates and emisisons still only apply in those areas where emissions are required. For you it's still N/A. The one thing that collectors plates does save is since you get five years of registration all at one shot you only pay one year's worth of the stupid road and bridge "fees" that our wonderful former Gov. Ritter tacked on.
I gotcha. I'll look into the collector plates next June when my registration is up.

Back to the topic...the beauty of leaving the t-case, transmission, and skid all bolted together is there's no way to lose control of it, as long as you leave it jacked up near the frame. The skid simply rocks against the frame, but that's as far as it can go.

The other advantage is it aids in lining everything back up to re-stab.

I'm actually kinda surprised no one else has stumbled onto this method.

Matt
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Unread 09-03-2013, 01:30 PM   #23
ironbyron1
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Thanks so much for all the advice. I would love to do it myself but think I'm gonna have to have someone else do it. I've come done with an injured knee and think it would be best not to try it at this time.

Byron
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Unread 09-03-2013, 01:50 PM   #24
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There's definitely something to be said for knowing what your own limitations are.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 02:39 PM   #25
Ken4444
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
...the beauty of leaving the t-case, transmission, and skid all bolted together is there's no way to lose control of it, as long as you leave it jacked up near the frame. The skid simply rocks against the frame, but that's as far as it can go.

The other advantage is it aids in lining everything back up to re-stab.

I'm actually kinda surprised no one else has stumbled onto this method.
That method does sound like it offers some benefits. I can recall my own experience with struggling with the T5 on top of the transmission jack and trying to get the angle right and always being worried it was going to fall over sideways. Then, getting the t-case re-attached to the T5 was another struggle. I ended up making a cradle out of wood scraps to hold the thing at almost the right angle to get it mated up to the T5. It was all a lot of work.

It seems like one drawback it the "all bolted together" method is the total weight of the whole assembly: The skid plate alone is probably 25 pounds. a D300 is 90 pounds. The T5 is 70 pounds. That's 185 pounds for that particular set of hardware. I do like the idea that the skid makes it all easier to position though.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 02:55 PM   #26
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It seems like one drawback it the "all bolted together" method is the total weight of the whole assembly: The skid plate alone is probably 25 pounds. a D300 is 90 pounds. The T5 is 70 pounds. That's 185 pounds for that particular set of hardware. I do like the idea that the skid makes it all easier to position though.
Add in the weight of the fluids, which I didn't remove, and yes, it's a bit of weight.

But, again, that's the beauty of leaving it all together and jacked up near the frame. A couple of hundred pounds is peanuts for a floor jack, and the skid stabilizes all that weight, while keeping it positioned at the right angle to re-stab.

It's so much easier than removing the individual components. Try it the next time, I think you'll agree.

Matt
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Unread 09-03-2013, 03:06 PM   #27
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So you don't run into problems with the assembly running into the tub or frame accessories, etc (cat comes to mind) as you back it out? It's been a year, but I got the feeling it would have when I was doing mine. Maybe it's an 8 thing, maybe not.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 03:10 PM   #28
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It so much easier than removing the individual components. Try it the next time, I think you'll agree.

Matt
I can see that it would be worth trying. In my case I had to have the T5 rebuilt, clean and repaint the D300 and the skid plate, and install a new torque arm. So in that example I had to have it all apart anyhow, but I suppose it would have been possible to re-assemble them all and *then* mount them under the CJ. Hmmm.. that's something to think about.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 03:16 PM   #29
Matt1981CJ7
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So you don't run into problems with the assembly running into the tub or frame accessories, etc (cat comes to mind) as you back it out? It's been a year, but I got the feeling it would have when I was doing mine. Maybe it's an 8 thing, maybe not.
Nope, the assembly should slide straight back approximately 12-18" without any obstructions. I have a CAT, as well, but it wasn't in the way.

Matt
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Unread 09-03-2013, 03:19 PM   #30
walkerhoundvm
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Mine looks basically the same as yours - aft the skid plate at least. Will keep in mind
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