Clutch Failure Indications? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 19 Old 05-08-2012, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
cairopd1069
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Clutch Failure Indications?

Never owned a standard shift for any length of time, but I have driven everything from a motorcycle to a tractor-trailer. I was wondering what are the indications a clutch is going bad. When I let off in first gear, my CJ7 kind of "hops" just a little bit. It may need an adjustment, if that is possible. Just to be on the safe side, I would like to know what to be prepared for.


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post #2 of 19 Old 05-08-2012, 04:39 PM
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I have never had a clutch go out, but on my buddy's Mazda pickup when it started to go it slipped a lot and you could often smell burning clutch fluid if you were taking off on a grade.

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post #3 of 19 Old 05-08-2012, 04:45 PM
gojeepin
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What size tires do you have and what's your gear ratio?

Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read the article (sticky) on Steering, suspension, and driveline.
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post #4 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 05:21 AM
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has it been setting? If so it may just be graby and will work out in a day or 2. Do the RPM's raise (in gear and driving) with no more forward motion increase (MPH gain)? If adjusted correctly and it is slipping then you may need a pressure plate and clutch plate, and if you have to go in replace the throughout bearing. (and maybe turn the flywheel surface) How much play at the top of the pedal? Does the pedal come all the way up or can you pull it higher? These can show it needs adjustment.
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 05:49 AM
Tsjellum
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Sounds like it could be a worn pilot bushing. Does it get worse in 2lo? My drive train tends to make my jeep hop in low range because my motor mounts are failing. Does increasing the rpms make the hopping worse or better?
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post #6 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 06:17 AM
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x2 on the pilot bearing.

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post #7 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 06:23 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Cairo

I chased the same "clutch stutter" you have for a while. Mine got bad enough that it was embarrassing to pull away from a stop with a car beside me. It made me look like I had never driven a stick before.

Based on several recommendations here, I started with the motor mounts. That didn't do a thing to change the stutter, but it did earn earn me a nasty scar on the back of my hand.

Then I tried replacing the tranny mounts, but I knew while I was working on those that it wasn't going to change the stutter. It didn't. Finally I bit the bullet and put a new clutch kit in. The stutter is gone! The Ol' Girl is smooth as butter, again.

If your stutter just started, you can probably drive it while before dropping the coin for a new clutch. It'll get progressively worse, though. If you're like me, it'll start driving you nuts.

Hope this helps,

Matt


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post #8 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 07:04 AM
hp_lovecraft
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Stutter us usually a sign of clutch contamination. Oil leaking past the rear main seal, or the tranny input-shaft seal is getting on the clutch disc causing it to get "gummy". So when you go to pull away in 1st gear, it will grab/release/grab/release causing the stutter. It also tends to make it hard to go into reverse without grinding because it might slowely turn the input shaft even when disengaged.

But not sure if it leads to a quicker clutch failure? Mine was that way for years and I just lived with it. Sometimes pulling away in higher rpms seemed to help. As far as grinding in reverse, I'd simply shift into 1st first, then reverse. No grinding. However, my throwout died, and eventually replaced the clutch anyway. The other problems went away.... for now, since whatever was contaminating the clutch will eventually cause more problems.
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post #9 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 07:31 AM
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Does anyone have a descriptive drawing of all clutch components and how they all work together.
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post #10 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 07:54 AM
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I have just recently installed my starter on my 78 4.2- 258 and I'm trying to start my engine, the starter was letting out this whining noise as we were cranking it. The motor seems to want to start but the starter seems to not want to disengage from the fly wheel. I pulled the starter and there is a chip on one of the teeth in the starter and the bearing in the end seems incredibly sloppy. Has this happened to anyone? In hoping it's not the fly wheel considering it was never touched but I don't know.
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post #11 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 07:56 AM
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I also pulled the gear in the starter and it moves back and forth smoothly so I don't know if I should just buy a new starter and see what happens or if it's pointless and I need to drop the transmission
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post #12 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 08:27 AM
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Dan,

This is thread about clutch stutter.

You should start a new thread to ask your question, instead of hijacking this one.

Matt


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post #13 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 09:00 AM
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Ok my bad, didn't mean to offend you man. (greater tragedies in life)
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post #14 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
cairopd1069
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Okay, one of you mentioned the rear main seal leaking on to part of the clutch. I do have a small leak. In 12 hours there is a spot about 2 or 3 inches in diameter in an area under the rear of the engine. It has not been sitting, I drive it everyday. It does not do it all the time, it kind of depends on the terrain, starting on an incline, even a small one, makes it do it. I have not had the jeep that long, so I can't even say if the 4wd works, I know that is a shame, but it is usually on pavement.

Thanks for all the responses!!

I will lift up mine eyes to the hills from which cometh my help. My help cometh from the Lord.
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-09-2012, 09:58 PM
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Bring it to the house and I will diag it for you. I would not consider 2-3 inches a small leak, we need to fix that. Itry to address in order.

Shutter on take off is most commonly causes by blued or hot spots in the flywheel, not apparent when fully disengages but can be caused by an oil impregnanted disc.

Worn out pilot bushing will usually be felt as a vibration on decel on in gear, clutch in (worse when coupled with a bad input bearing) and/or of course a squealing noise when the clutch is in.

Lugging or shuttering in gear when letting of the gas is usually a result of gear ratio verses speed or vehicle and RPM.

Clutch adjustment will be indicated by slippage if too tight and can cause the throw out bearing to go bad and incomplete disengagement if too loose, over time just typical wear will create a need for maintenance adjustments, if left undone it can result in incomplete disengagement.

Bad throw out bearing will squeal or worse grind.

Bad/weak pressure plate can cause slipping under pressure accompanied with the smell like over heated brake pads. A pressure plate can also get hot spots and cause a shuttering when released, not apparent when fully disengages.

Wore out disc will cause slippage and the smell.


Danoh, Matt didn't mean anything by it, he's a good guy. We just try to stay on track when we can. Sounds to me like you need to shim your starter. I have also seen it effective to back the starter bolts off slightly and see if that cures the problem, if so tilt the start on the bolts so that the nose cone (and gear) is being moved away from the flywheel, this will usually cure it.


These are just my thoughts, right wrong or otherwise just trying to help.

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