how do i replace a stock clutch system? i figure it has already been discussed, but i have never worked on a jeep before and dont want to get everything messed up. i just bought a 79 cj5 with the 258 today. if someone has some diagrams or a step by step way to do it i would appreciate it.
Both the Haynes and Chiltons are good for their diagrams and brief step by steps. Even better is the factory manual (M.R.252). Are you sure it's the clutch and not the linkage or something else. I hate to risk sounding like a jerk, but a clutch job is sorta big, both on know-how and tools.....Have you done clutches before? If not, you may not want to jump into it with out knowing Jeeps too much.
i was told by the previous owner that it was the clutch. how would i tell if it was the linkage and not the clutch. i drove it and the clutch would smell and it never really engaged. it would just keep reving and once in a while would get a little more grab. that is why i would strongly imagine it is the clutch. i have someone who knows and biulds cars quite often to help me with the clutch if i need it. but the jeep is not my main car by any means so i dont mind if it takes me a week or two to get it in. i was planning on getting the haynes/chilton manual, but where would i get a stock replacement manual? also, would an aftermarket clutch be a great improvement, i ordered, or am about to, the clutch kit from autozone for 120, i assume that is just a stock replacement. for saving probably 500 in labor i dont mind getting into it myself.
the car sounds good and the only smell is once the clutch is trying to engage. 1000 bucks and i still have another car for school. any tips on the clutch that a manual wouldnt tell me.
I saw this thread and i wanted to post in it, i have an 87 wrangler and i am pretty sure i blew the clutch 4 wheelin this last weekend, i am still a newbie in the jeep neighborhood but after getting a couple quotes on replacing a clutch i want to do it on my own and just buy the clutch. I have a few friends that have an idea on replacing a clutch but never have done it and i guess i was looking for guidance or maybe a helper to show me how to do it, i want to learn how to do it, but would like to have a way to contact someone who has done it before so i have a better idea what i am doing.
The quotes i received were 600 from one shop and almost 1000 for the Harrisburg Jeep Service Dept. They told me something about a slave clutch that i would be stupid if i didn't replace that at the same time.
The MR252 is by far the best manual for CJ's (they have a version for YJ's as well) Ebay or a Jeep place like Leon Rosser has them. Extra bucks, but worth it.
It's best to get the Jeep up higher unless you already have a big lift/tires. I use a large concrete block under each tire with a double stack of 2x12x12 boards to span the 2 holes in the block. Wedges cut 45 degrees and a firm parking brake asure no movement. Remove driveshafts, levers, wiring, vent tubes and all else in the way. Support the tailshaft and remove the bellypan. Lower the transmission/tranfercase combo as a unit with a transmission jack or a floor jack/large board combo. Support the rear of the engine with a scissor jack (from the tailshaft time). Then the bellhousing, pressure plate, clutch, throughout bearing, etc, can come out. Inspect the ring gear for broken teeth or damaged sections. Replace if needed and have the flywheel resurfaced. New pilot bushing as well. I use the brass kind, it's up to you. You can use an air gun to take all this apart, but lock tight, and a tourqe wrench are needed to reinstall. Check the input shaft on the transmission to make sure you have the right clutch kit. 10 spline for 6 and 8 cyl, 13 for 4cyl.I seperate the transmission from the transfercase as the tranny is light and I can sit underneth the Jeep and reallign everything by hand. Reinstall the tranny mount/bellypan and then put back the transfer case as it is heavy and eaiser to do at the rear of the pan with a floor jack. It's easier to line it back up than is the tranny clucth part. (this mainly applies to CJ's with the Dana 300 or Dana 20) All else is plug and play. Set the linkage where the throwout bearing rides about 1/8 inch off the pressure plate fingers. This should result in about an inch and 1/2 of pedal travel before pressure is felt. Have have a Centerforce Dual friction in my personal Jeep. It has lasted a very long time and I can't seem to burn it! I abuse it (ride it sometimes on steep hills or off roading) and it wont burn! I love that. My friend went the Autozone way and you can smell his if you accellerate hard off the line. Forget feathering it at times.... So other than the clutch kit (150 to 600 bucks),you will need a pilot bushing (3 to 10 bucks), a resurface of the flywheel, and any other hiden suprises.
SDavis02: the "internal slave" is a hydroulic throughout bearing the has the lines plumed into the bellhousing. It's a mess when it goes bad. You should go to the external slave that bolts to the side of the bellhousing. (when all else is apart anyway)OH Yeah, when the transmission and transfercase are out, change the fluid. It's so easy when they are out.
i pulled the transmission and transfer case yesterday all together. i get the clutch today and will put it in this weekend. is the only reason to seperate the trans from the transfer case for weight and ease of install and alignment? where and how do i flush the trans and transfer case for new fliud? how do i replace the pilot bushing, does the haynes manual explain that, i got that yesterday also. do the clutch/pressure plates and throwout bearings just come out and the new ones slide on, or do i need to know a better way. how do i set the throwout bearing 1/8 off of the pressure palte fingers, or will i understand explicitly once i get into the bell housing more?
i have a 5" lift with 36.5s so its easy to work under. although yesterday i was afraid the trans was going to slip and bash my head in. but it came out okay and still spins.
where did you get your centerforce dual friction from, i couldnt find any aftermarket clutches on summitracing or jcwhitney. are those stupid places to look for offroad stuff?
by the way, i have the 79 with the 258. how do i tell what trans i have, only by the VIN?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by joconnor66
[B]. is the only reason to seperate the trans from the transfer case for weight and ease of install and alignment?
For me it was. The T-4/5 SR-4 are light aluminum units. The T-150 is heavier.
where and how do i flush the trans and transfer case for new fliud? Drain plugs at the bottom and fill plugs up higher on the side. I tilt mine at 15 degrees or so and fill with a funnel and hose.
how do i replace the pilot bushing, does the haynes manual explain that, i got that yesterday also. Many a book says fill the hole with thick greese and use a rod to force it out under the pressure. That never works for me so I use a small bushing tool that screws on the end of a slide hammer. I heat the area and put ice on the brass bushing...pops right out.
do the clutch/pressure plates and throwout bearings just come out and the new ones slide on, or do i need to know a better way. The throwout bearing is clipped on the fork, the plates are bolted to the flywheel.(bellhousing off of course)
how do i set the throwout bearing 1/8 off of the pressure palte fingers, or will i understand explicitly once i get into the bell housing more? After everything is back in and you are setting up the lingage, you can move the fork back and forth and feel when it hits the fingers, a spring will keep it just off of them (when the clutch pedel is out)set linkage as needed to maintain this.
i have a 5" lift with 36.5s so its easy to work under. although yesterday i was afraid the trans was going to slip and bash my head in. but it came out okay and still spins. Did you have help? We use one person on the jack to roll and lower it, and another set of arms to stablize the parts comming out and down.
where did you get your centerforce dual friction from, i couldnt find any aftermarket clutches on summitracing or jcwhitney. are those stupid places to look for offroad stuff? Not my first choice. I use 4Wheel Drive hardware 1-800-333-5535 and Quadratec 1-800-745-5337. There are many places on line as well.
by the way, i have the 79 with the 258. how do i tell what trans i have, only by the VIN? I agree with fuzz, should be a T150
thanks a lot guys. this has been a big help. hopefully i can get that all in in the next couple days and be using my new baby for what it was made for. i think i will check the linkage first thoroughly though, and then hopefully i wont even have to replace the clutch, but i am extremely doubtful that i will be that lucky. thanks again.