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#1 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Clocking Ring
Well I went and done it. I installed a clocking ring.
While in the process I made a few things, and encountered a few problems. It started as a way to get some clearance for my front drive shaft. Not wanting to install dual exhaust and keep the single exhaust crossover pipe. I decided on a clocking ring to bring the transfer case level with the ground, so the front drive shaft wouldn't interfere with the exhaust pipe. In the process I made a new trans mount/skid plate, steps/rock deflectors, and some underbody armor to protect the body mounts. I gained 4" of ground clearance. The one thing I couldn't get any information on the transfer case shifter and linkage. I ended up cutting 1 1/2" long 1/2" wide piece of metal of the backside of the inner shifter support rod bracket, also about a 1/2" square piece behind the top right hand trans adapter bolt housing. I then cut a 3" piece off the shifter rod. When it comes down and make's its first turn. I left the turns and cut the flat off. After welding the shifter back together I heater her up with my "Rose bud" tip and bent the rod to 30 degrees toward the passenger door. It's straighter now then before! I took a few after pictures. I figured you know what it looked like before. Sorry the pictures are not in order.
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80' CJ7, 360 Howell Injected, 3" single exhaust, NP435 4spd, Dana 300 AA clocking ring, Currie twin stick, Tera-Low 4 -1 kit, Dana 44 front, cut 10" wider to 63", 4.10 gears, ARB, Yukon axles and Super H/D u-joints, Currie Dana 44 rear, cut wider to 60 1/2", 4.10 gears, ARB 35 spline, Currie 35 spline axle shafts, 2 1/2" x 11" Ford drum brakes, CJ-SOA conversion, Tom Woods F & R drive shafts, Warn 9500i winch, 6 point cage, Homemade F&R bumpers and tire carrier, 1" body, Pro Comp supension Kit, 12.5x35x15 BFG's, 15x10 OMF beadlocks, Body armor, OBA. |
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#2 |
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Member
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Bravo, we are doing the same to a 6 banger .4''! Isn't life grand.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I've considered doing that but was concerned about room for the passenger exhaust since I am running duals. It looks pretty tight over there. Is there room for a 2 1/4 pipe? Looks like you did a nice job.
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83 CJ-7, AMC 360, RV CAM, GM FI, AUTO WITH SHIFT KIT, FRONT DANA 44 HP LOCKRIGHT HIGH STEER, REAR CURRIE 9" HP SHAVED AND SPOOLED, 37" PJ DIRT GRIPS, AJ'S BODY FENDERS AND HOOD, WARN HS9500, OBA, BESTOP TOP AND SEATS AND STILL GOING. |
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#4 |
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Web Wheeler
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83greenCj,
There's enough room for a 3" exhaust on the pass side. It would be tight, but it will fit. The picture don't do the space any justice. So your 2 1/4" exhaust pipe will fit fine. I used an Advance Adapter ring for the project. I called everyone that makes the kit and AA was the most helpful. Another reason I stayed with the single exhaust is I'm planning a furture project for an On Board Air System. The air tank will be installed where the muffler would have sat.
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80' CJ7, 360 Howell Injected, 3" single exhaust, NP435 4spd, Dana 300 AA clocking ring, Currie twin stick, Tera-Low 4 -1 kit, Dana 44 front, cut 10" wider to 63", 4.10 gears, ARB, Yukon axles and Super H/D u-joints, Currie Dana 44 rear, cut wider to 60 1/2", 4.10 gears, ARB 35 spline, Currie 35 spline axle shafts, 2 1/2" x 11" Ford drum brakes, CJ-SOA conversion, Tom Woods F & R drive shafts, Warn 9500i winch, 6 point cage, Homemade F&R bumpers and tire carrier, 1" body, Pro Comp supension Kit, 12.5x35x15 BFG's, 15x10 OMF beadlocks, Body armor, OBA. |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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Mod looks great, I love the belly pan you made...good job. Q: I don't have experience with this upgrade, how does the gear oil fill work into the equation? I can imagine the drain would still be on the low side so that seems it would be OK. Does laying it flat just mean you can run less gear oil due to it seems it will cover the top better?
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BlueJeep BLUE JEEP CLUB MEMBER #156 84' Caribean Blue Laredo w/ black leather interior Frame off restore 6 years ago 7 inch lift w/ 34" TRXUS MT DANA 44 front Solid axle converted Model 20 rear AMC 360 / T-400 / Model 300 transfer case SOLD but never forgotten Quote:
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#6 |
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Web Wheeler
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John C,
I drained 2 1/2 quarts out when I started and only poured 2 quarts back in (new oil). Mostly for the reason you stated. All the gears are sitting in oil now. I didn't want to over filled the case or have too much oil pushing against the trans adapter seal. With the case on it's side it would easily take 4 quarts of lube and be over filled. I drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the skid plate to drain the transfercase. Like any drain hole it works ok. I still have a mess, but now it's eaiser to clean.
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80' CJ7, 360 Howell Injected, 3" single exhaust, NP435 4spd, Dana 300 AA clocking ring, Currie twin stick, Tera-Low 4 -1 kit, Dana 44 front, cut 10" wider to 63", 4.10 gears, ARB, Yukon axles and Super H/D u-joints, Currie Dana 44 rear, cut wider to 60 1/2", 4.10 gears, ARB 35 spline, Currie 35 spline axle shafts, 2 1/2" x 11" Ford drum brakes, CJ-SOA conversion, Tom Woods F & R drive shafts, Warn 9500i winch, 6 point cage, Homemade F&R bumpers and tire carrier, 1" body, Pro Comp supension Kit, 12.5x35x15 BFG's, 15x10 OMF beadlocks, Body armor, OBA. |
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