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Unread 01-21-2012, 11:44 AM   #16
Renegade82
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BioTex - Did you first etch the bare metal after you "wheeled" it clean? POR doesn't like smooth shiny metal because it can't grip to it as well. That's why they recommend prepping it with Metal-Ready.

GVHS - Maybe a combination of things, since you have several pairs of hands helping. Do a quick scratching with some grinding wheels or 36 grit flap disc's to gouge up the paint. Then brush on some liquid stripper and let it sit overnight. Then the next morning remove the stripper, which has probably dried, with some strip discs.
I have never done this but it's a choice I'd try. If the stripper is still wet maybe you could use a power washer to remove it. I believe one of the users here said that worked fairly well. The chemical application and removal could be done when the kids aren't present, after and before class.

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Unread 01-21-2012, 11:44 AM   #17
rixcj
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I dropped my frame off at a local sandblaster. It cost me $230.00 and was completely clean. Not a speck of rust anywhere. To me it was well worth it.

It went from this...







...to this...







Rich
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Unread 01-21-2012, 01:45 PM   #18
243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GVHS View Post
So we started last class on cleaning out frame up for por 15. Currently are using wire wheels and angle grinders. We have yet to get even just the top surfaces clean and it has been close to 5 man hours and 2 wire wheels.

So what are our options? At this rate the wire wheels alone will add up in cost.

What is the best method to get the frame cleaned off? We are in a small shop and have limited outside area.

I was thinking about taking a field trip to place that does media blasting and haveing them show the kids how it is done then transporting the frame home.

How much does media blasting cost? Frame is all clean just need the final to bare metal...
I used wire wheels when I stripped my frame about two years ago, took between 8-10 hours straight with only a break for lunch and somewhere between 6-10 wire wheels, I would have to go back through my build thread to find exact numbers.

The only place that media blasts locally wanted 500.00 to blast the frame!

I estimate that I spent 16-18 months out of the 36 months stripping parts to bare metal on my build. If I attempt a build of this magnitude again, I will take everything to a media blaster at one time and immediately spray it with two coats of epoxy primer.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 01:22 PM   #19
ripper5000
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frame

Bringing this back but I am at this stage in my cj. Rixcj, I noticed that your frame was patched before you had it blasted. I was going to have mine blasted then do the patch work thinking it would make it easier to find the areas of concern. Also would a metal shot media be too harsh for the frame?
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Unread 10-12-2013, 07:07 AM   #20
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripper5000 View Post
Bringing this back but I am at this stage in my cj. Rixcj, I noticed that your frame was patched before you had it blasted. I was going to have mine blasted then do the patch work thinking it would make it easier to find the areas of concern. Also would a metal shot media be too harsh for the frame?
I could see enough of what had to be fixed without blasting. So, I fixed it up first. I figured that if I blasted it first, by the time I was finished repairing it, it would have new surface rust on it.

I don't have any experience with shot blasting, so I don't have a good answer for you on that.

Rich
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Unread 10-12-2013, 07:28 AM   #21
WolfcreekCJ
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I agree with Bio-Tex. POR stands for paint over RUST. and is designed to do just that. I used chassis saver on my frame and it stuck MUCH better on the rust than it did on new bare metal.
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