So we started last class on cleaning out frame up for por 15. Currently are using wire wheels and angle grinders. We have yet to get even just the top surfaces clean and it has been close to 5 man hours and 2 wire wheels.
So what are our options? At this rate the wire wheels alone will add up in cost.
What is the best method to get the frame cleaned off? We are in a small shop and have limited outside area.
I was thinking about taking a field trip to place that does media blasting and haveing them show the kids how it is done then transporting the frame home.
How much does media blasting cost? Frame is all clean just need the final to bare metal...
Blasting is definitely a time saver, and the surface finish it produces is perfect for POR-15. Call around and find some local prices. You will probably find that your man hours are worth more than the cost of a blasting job and the pro results will be superior to anything you can do in your shop.
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Media blasting and acid dipping are both options. I went the cheap route with aircraft stripper and wire wheels. I had the same results as you with the wire wheels but add in the stripper and it works wonders. Read this post to see how mine turned out.
Mike My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
"Strip disks" are made from a stiff plastic mesh. They took the paint off my sheetemtal super easy with my variable speed sander. Let the tool do the work. I was able to strip about 3 sq. feet of paint with one disk (the do wear out, wear away). Different companies make them. I got mine for about $9 each at home depot. I would also reccomend high quality paint stripper, but it's messy and dangerous and toxic.
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Are you in Grand Junction?
I have had ProPowder coating do some projects for me. They blasted and coated a motorcycle frame, and gave me a good deal on some assorted small parts.
When it was time to do the CJ body I gave them a call. I had them blast the whole tub inside and out the grill, and the fenders, lots of surface area. and they soda blasted the hood and more delicate parts.
The whole blast job cost me less than the bike frame powder coat job.
I'll bet JUST blasting the frame wouldn't be to much.
I did mine with 4.5" 80-grit flap discs on an angle grinder. They took off everything and left small scratches that I saw as good for paint adhesion. I used 6 of them, at about $7 a piece IIRC. I tried the wire brushes, "flappier" discs, and plastic ones as well, but liked these the best. I used a wire brush on a 3/8" drill for inside corners.
It's a rewarding thing to do. Once. Next time I'll take it to the blaster. I think my guy could have done it for $150 or so.
I do think seeing a sand blasting operation (especially a big one that has a large room for tractor trailers, etc.) would be neat for your students.
GVHS, contact a local stripper (blaster that is) and talk to the owner about doing it as a community support deal, they should know the ins and outs of using it as a both promotional for community involvement and tax benefit. Most reputable business owners look for opportunities to support the community where they can, to many times people don't ask. Maybe one of your students or their parents will become a paying customer, offer to put them in the school news letter or pictures in the year book with a thank you caption, good advertising.
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Many are recommending a chemical stripper. Although a great idea and an effective product in many cases, I am concerned in the school setting with kids due to the dangers, which again many have pointed out. I may be more sensitive to this sense I have a teenager working with me regularly, even though he is very comfortable and capable at this point, he is kept under close supervision, now if we can only get someone to watch me.
Just a thought.
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You mentioned you were going to use POR-15 on the frame.
I have found that POR doesn't adhere as well to a bare metal frame as it does to a rusty one. I actualy did a test. I wire wheeled a section clean, and painted it with POR-15. After it cured, I scratched on it with a screwdriver. It peeled off, but the section I didn't clean held tight. It scratched, but didn't peel.
Now, using a sandblaster does mechanically etch metal, so it would be beter than just wire wheeling it. Using a stripper does't etch the metal.
If you are going to take the frame down to bare metal, there has to be some sort of etching. Be it mechanical or chemical.
You probably already know this, and are using a chemical method, but I just wanted to throw that in JIC.
Be sure and send us some pictures...
'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20. 1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208 1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
My local powder coater/media blaster quoted me $450 to blast the frame and additional $750 if I wanted to powder coat. I also toyed around with having the body blasted and PC and was quoted $1250, but then it would have the orange peel effect on large flat surfaces and then there's the issue of touching it up after scratches.
'77 CJ7, LS1, NV4500/D300, Ford 8.8, 4" of lift, 33x12.50 BFG ATs...
I have one of those and they work good but it would take a lot of time on the frame. I did a trailer frame and it took many bags of sand and many hours and I did not get anal about getting all the way to metal, just cleaned to good paint.