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Unread 05-12-2013, 10:08 PM   #4876
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Bunch of 4.0 flywheels on Fleabay.
For S and G I checked out the flywheels at AZ. Brand new for $65! I guess I'm a little dumbfounded. I expected them to be much more than that. Ebay has them for $65 and up, used.




Can anyone tell me...

I picked up a JY fuel rail from an OBDI engine. It has the fuel return and the pressure reg on the rail. This style is what I want to use, but I don't HAVE to. After pulling the regulator off and popping out the injectors, I was getting a lot of rust flakes and particles out of the rail. Can it be cleaned satisfactorarily, or is it trash? The sockets for the injectors are pitted too.

I have another fuel rail, also a JY snag, that does not have the return line. It appears to have the pressure reg in the middle of the fuel rail. This rail came from an OBDII 4.0L. Can it be made to work? How does the regulator work in the middle of the rail?

Thanks, Guys...

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Unread 05-13-2013, 01:01 PM   #4877
cjdogtoy
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it sounds like your not having too much luck with vehicles right now, just hang in there you'll get through this too. all the best
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Unread 05-17-2013, 06:40 PM   #4878
Skerr
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Clay and I have been gathering parts, attempting to have everything we need to start the engine while on the trailer, and then to swap it into his Jeep. I keep finding more and more short-comings as I go, adding to expense and time. I'm not really complaining about it, because I expected it. But we are still in a vehicle crunch with Beth's van dying AGAIN today! I need something running soon.

Here are a few pics of what we're doing. It isn't much, but you can tell we are alive. So far, we have pulled an OBDI engine harness (installed), OBDI sensors (installed), dug the OBDI fuel rail from the back of a cubbyhole and found it rotting! So we got another OBDI fuel rail today from another junkyard. It is not installed yet, but hopefully tomorrow. Hook up the external fuel pump, filter, and plumbing, and see if I can figure out which wires to juice up. The, hopefully, it will purr-r-r-r-r-r!

$65 for a good fuel rail including XJ factory injectors, 8 Neon injectors, and two OBDI MAP sensors.

This is Clay's makeshift shop for the while.



Clay and Fallon pulling the automatic flywheel. I am surprised at how light the metal is... nothing to it, really.



This is an USCAR plug for an OBDII injector. This is the style plug used on all of them post... what...'97? '98?



This is the Minitimer plug, found on all OBDI vehicles. I understand there is some kind of an adapter available to convert USCAR to Minitimer, or vice-versa.



This is an OBDI fuel rail from a 4.0 XJ. It came off a '92 engine. I actually had to drain the gas from it when I removed it. It was still under pressure. I have had it, inside, for less than a year. I got it out to install it on Clay's engine and found it rusted out. I thought it was aluminum.





New fuel rail with factory injectors pulled today, next to bad rail.



This is a factory 4.0 injector. See the single hole (pintle). There is nothing wrong with this, but there is something better.



This is an injector from a '92 Dodge/Plymough Neon. Notice the 4 tiny holes. Better atomization, cleaner, more efficient fuel burn = better acceleration and smoother engine. Gotta have a good filter system, though. This delivers the same amount of fuel as the single hole.




The Neon injectors we found.


The difference between an OBDI MAP (left) and OBDII MAP (right). I am convinced changes were made in plugs just so the industry would have to buy new parts!?



We laid the new T18 clutch set on top of the new manual flywheel... just for fun. The clutch "feet" do not make contact with the flywheel face while the clutch disc (pressure plate?) is under it. Maybe 3/8 of a gap. I'm assuming the feet are supposed to bolt solidly to the flywheel??? Pic later...
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Unread 05-17-2013, 06:55 PM   #4879
Ken4444
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Thanks for the update. I offer a big congratulations on the great photos! Many folks would have been unable to get that great, sharp photo of the 4 fuel injector holes. I'm sure your research and work will pay off! Imagine what it'll be like in 5 years when Clay goes to buy parts for the CJ, "I need a '78 CJ axle seal, 2001 Dodge Neon fuel injector, '88 Jeep YJ gasket..."
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Unread 05-17-2013, 06:57 PM   #4880
lucdog
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First thought on the pressure plate/ disc. The friction disc is Oriented correctly? Meaning the proper side is towards the flywheel. There is a correct and incorrect way it's installed.

One thing is for sure, there's plenty to do at the Kerr ranch.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 07:29 PM   #4881
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When you dive in, you definitely aim for the deep end

Good luck Scott, I hope it starts up and runs good, I know you need to get Clay's Jeep back on the road.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 10:05 PM   #4882
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Thanks for the update. I offer a big congratulations on the great photos! Many folks would have been unable to get that great, sharp photo of the 4 fuel injector holes. I'm sure your research and work will pay off! Imagine what it'll be like in 5 years when Clay goes to buy parts for the CJ, "I need a '78 CJ axle seal, 2001 Dodge Neon fuel injector, '88 Jeep YJ gasket..."
More truth than fiction here, Ken, and it's a little worrisome to me. Clay has started a file with all the different parts that have gone into this build. Thanks for the comments on the pics. They are nothing like yours, but I did take several to get the one that was most clear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
First thought on the pressure plate/ disc. The friction disc is Oriented correctly? Meaning the proper side is towards the flywheel. There is a correct and incorrect way it's installed.

One thing is for sure, there's plenty to do at the Kerr ranch.

Bill
Bill, honestly, I have no freakin' idea! I don't even know how it goes together. I have flipped it over both ways, and it sits the same. I'm not concentrating on it right now as I don't need it yet. I am so much running on fumes at the moment, and I'm coming down with a cold. I know I'll come out alright, but I hate this kind of pressure. Clay says he did some research and found somewhere that states you need to use the T18 clutch, the 4.0 clutch disc and flywheel. I haven't read the article yet, but I will.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
When you dive in, you definitely aim for the deep end

Good luck Scott, I hope it starts up and runs good, I know you need to get Clay's Jeep back on the road.
The deep end keeps me from cracking my head open! You are a good portion of my inspiration, David, whether you know it or not. When I finally get this done, anyone will be able to do it!
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Unread 05-17-2013, 10:11 PM   #4883
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Sucks about the van, but lovin' the Jeep stuff. Heads up Sport- you guys are doing a great job, and the boys will NEVER forget this.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 11:02 PM   #4884
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Get er dun Scott! Just think how much youre going to know about fuel injection when its all said and done!
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Unread 05-17-2013, 11:07 PM   #4885
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You keep steaming ahead on these things and make me feel lazy .

So you don't have the pressure plate bolted down yet correct? If so it should be alright. If the pressure plate sat flat on the flywheel with pressure plate in between and not being bolted down, that's when you would surely have a problem. Of course this is assuming that I understand what your saying and not just making an *** of myself
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Unread 05-18-2013, 07:14 AM   #4886
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bojon
You keep steaming ahead on these things and make me feel lazy .

So you don't have the pressure plate bolted down yet correct? If so it should be alright. If the pressure plate sat flat on the flywheel with pressure plate in between and not being bolted down, that's when you would surely have a problem. Of course this is assuming that I understand what your saying and not just making an *** of myself
This^^^

I remembered after I read this, the last new clutch I bought (centerforce) had 3 pieces of rubber between the housing and springs.

This picture is from a 304 that I have, the friction disc is in place.

image-462947626.jpg

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 05-18-2013, 08:35 AM   #4887
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post

We laid the new T18 clutch set on top of the new manual flywheel... just for fun. The clutch "feet" do not make contact with the flywheel face while the clutch disc (pressure plate?) is under it. Maybe 3/8 of a gap. I'm assuming the feet are supposed to bolt solidly to the flywheel??? Pic later...
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
First thought on the pressure plate/ disc. The friction disc is Oriented correctly? Meaning the proper side is towards the flywheel. There is a correct and incorrect way it's installed.

One thing is for sure, there's plenty to do at the Kerr ranch.

Bill
If the "feet" of the pressure plate touched the flywheel face then there would be no pressure squeezing the the clutch disk between the pressure plate and the flywheel.

When you crank 'er down you should see the fingers of the pressure plate move in.

Sounds good so far.
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Unread 05-18-2013, 08:41 AM   #4888
John Strenk
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Ah, a little late to the party I guess.
Need to keep reading after the end of a page.

I need more than 45 min of sleep each night I guess...
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Unread 05-18-2013, 09:18 AM   #4889
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNC-84CJ7 View Post
Sucks about the van, but lovin' the Jeep stuff. Heads up Sport- you guys are doing a great job, and the boys will NEVER forget this.
Shoot... I'LL never forget this !

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Get er dun Scott! Just think how much youre going to know about fuel injection when its all said and done!
meh... I already know everything. I am only going thru this one-step-at-a-time for your benefit, because I know you're slow.






Quote:
Originally Posted by Bojon View Post
You keep steaming ahead on these things and make me feel lazy .

So you don't have the pressure plate bolted down yet correct? If so it should be alright. If the pressure plate sat flat on the flywheel with pressure plate in between and not being bolted down, that's when you would surely have a problem. Of course this is assuming that I understand what your saying and not just making an *** of myself
Nope, you are right on the money Jered. I am the ***! It is obviously my first clutch install, and all I had to do was read the instructions!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
This^^^

I remembered after I read this, the last new clutch I bought (centerforce) had 3 pieces of rubber between the housing and springs.

This picture is from a 304 that I have, the friction disc is in place.

Attachment 627970

Bill
That is what we are looking at. Then Clay read an article that says to use a 4.0 clutch disc?? Nah... Sometimes there is TOO MUCH CRAP out there!

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
If the "feet" of the pressure plate touched the flywheel face then there would be no pressure squeezing the the clutch disk between the pressure plate and the flywheel.

When you crank 'er down you should see the fingers of the pressure plate move in.

Sounds good so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Ah, a little late to the party I guess.
Need to keep reading after the end of a page.

I need more than 45 min of sleep each night I guess...
Thanks, John. I should have read the directions first! All these years of running manual trucks, tractors, etc, and I have never done a clutch! And, Yes, you DO need more than 45 minutes sleep each night!


I have some pics I'll post if anyone wants to see them, but they are essentially the same as what Bill just posted. The pressure plate has, printed on the metal, directions on how to tighten it to the flywheel. And the clutch disc has, printed on it, which side should face the flywheel.

I see the flywheel and clutch parts beginning to discolor from handling. Anything special I need to do to them??
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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Unread 05-18-2013, 10:58 AM   #4890
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Clean with brake clean before install.

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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