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Unread 11-18-2012, 08:31 PM   #4651
Skerr
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Real men go to the river!



Big day today. Baptism for my 13 YO. The water is COLD!! And some fun pics of Clay "wheeling"! Notice the mighty flex and the incredible hill climb!!

cimg0127_1.jpg   dsc06130_1.jpg   dsc06134_1.jpg   dsc06143_1.jpg   dsc06149_1.jpg  

cimg0099_1.jpg   cimg0108_1.jpg   cimg0110_1.jpg   cimg0130_1.jpg   dsc06176_1.jpg  

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Unread 11-18-2012, 08:42 PM   #4652
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Congrats to Fallon. We need to find Clayton se bigger hills!

And here, just for you is a river song
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1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
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Unread 11-21-2012, 10:50 AM   #4653
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Clay's Jeep is leaking... a lot! I am keeping an eye in the oil level, but it doesn't seem to be going down. I know the oil leak is engine oil, and I believe it is coming from the pan gasket. I installed one, and I had a shop install another, but still it leaks. It seems to be coming from the front of the pan. Is there some kind of union between the timing cover and the oil pan? I did not remove the timing cover when we did this build. I can hear the timing chain inside when it is running, and I assume the engine would benefit from replacing it, but I didn't want to get into engine work if I didn't HAVE to. If I go through that hassle of changing gears/chain, can I expect to fix this leak?

Also have a rear axle seal leaking, so I have that to do too.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 05:22 PM   #4654
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Will a shifter boot for a T150, T14, T15 fit a T18?
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Unread 11-21-2012, 05:37 PM   #4655
gmakra
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Skipper if you do replace the timing chain replace the pan gasket with a Victor Rienz one piece pan gasket its much better than a Felpro. I never had one leak Car Quest sell Victor Rienz and I would replace the timing chain at the same time cheap insurance.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 05:58 PM   #4656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr
Will a shifter boot for a T150, T14, T15 fit a T18?
Yup. I bought mine from quadratec and it was labled for a t150 I believe.
image-2238146465.jpg  
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Unread 11-21-2012, 07:25 PM   #4657
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Not sure if this is the problem with the leak, but I remember reading about someone else having the same issue after replacing their oil pan gasket. I believe it was MoC but not sure. Anyway, all they did was check and tighten some of the oil pan bolts. Doesnt take much though.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 07:40 PM   #4658
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Using a one piece gasket, but not the one George recommends. I have tightened the bolts twice, and no difference. I am wondering if I have a small hole in the pan. There is a pretty good ding there where the PO hit something.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 08:14 PM   #4659
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Scott, I used a felpro one-piece and have zero leaks. The one thing that comes to mind is they should have put a small dab or RTV where the pan gasket goes from the flat to curved surfaces. Four places total. Two front where it meets the timing cover and two rear where it meets the rear crank bearing. You should be able to see if they did this because it will squeeze out some when you torque the pan.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 08:22 PM   #4660
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On mine I used non hardening gasket sealer between my felpro multi piece gasket and it doesn't leak. But then again I haven't gotten my engine on the frame yet.
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1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

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Unread 11-21-2012, 08:26 PM   #4661
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I used an 1/8" bead of RTV on both the pan and block along with a 4 piece gasket. No leaks. haha no kill like overkill
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Unread 11-21-2012, 11:01 PM   #4662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
I used an 1/8" bead of RTV on both the pan and block along with a 4 piece gasket. No leaks. haha no kill like overkill
Haha exactly.
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1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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Unread 11-22-2012, 09:11 AM   #4663
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I've found that if you put silicone on both sides of a gasket, it can cause the gasket to "blouse out", or slide out sideways , in certain spots, when tightening down the bolts..

An engine builder friend of mine told me to either just use silicone, The Right One, etc. (no gasket), or just a gasket...not both.

So now, I used Permatex Hi Tack on the block, and the block side of the gasket, just to glue the gasket to the block. Then I bolt the oil pan to the bottom side of the gasket. It doesn't "blouse out" this way.

Putting the sealant at the corners IS necessary, though.
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Unread 11-22-2012, 09:24 AM   #4664
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Scott,

I'd get busy with some degreaser and power-washer, and get the under-side squeaky clean. That way you'll be able to isolate the leak, easily, after a short drive.

I'd hate to see you chase the wrong problem.

If I had to guess, I'd agree with VACJ7, the 4 corners of the oil pan probably didn't get RTV'd as they should.

Matt
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Unread 11-22-2012, 10:56 AM   #4665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj
I've found that if you put silicone on both sides of a gasket, it can cause the gasket to "blouse out", or slide out sideways , in certain spots, when tightening down the bolts..

An engine builder friend of mine told me to either just use silicone, The Right One, etc. (no gasket), or just a gasket...not both.

So now, I used Permatex Hi Tack on the block, and the block side of the gasket, just to glue the gasket to the block. Then I bolt the oil pan to the bottom side of the gasket. It doesn't "blouse out" this way.

Putting the sealant at the corners IS necessary, though.
I had a couple "blouse outs" that broke the gasket. But it still sealed because of all the sealer. I felt like a meathead the whole time I was doing the pan. Next time ill be less sloppy. It's only by gods grace that it sealed so well
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