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All Bilstein shocks & struts - Lowest Prices Ever and Poison Spyder DeFenders™ - "Tubeless" Jeep FendeSanta Kolak Announces: Kolak Exhaust 20% Off Sale!

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Unread 07-08-2010, 09:52 PM   #31
Ken4444
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I like the red, silver, black paint scheme. Looks great.

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Unread 07-08-2010, 09:55 PM   #32
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I should make a note that I was unable to turn the motor. Should I pull harder???

Thanks Guys...
I saw you note that it wouldn't turn over but thought after adding the oil you might be able to get it to break loose. Another option is to bolt up the trans and starter and jump it to a battery to see if that will break it loose. If it is completey rusted solid you're going to have to pull the head anyway.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 09:56 PM   #33
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Clay is applying the finishing touches to his intake. The exhaust manifold is already done, but in black. For some reason I can't wait to get these parts bolted back up. I ordered a gasket set last night from Morris. I keep picturing Dave's frame pics and remembering how good the frame/engine combo looks. That is my goal. I don't think I am going to repaint the power steering pump. It should be done to stay strict with the finish, but I'm worried about taking it apart. I can take anything apart, but I sometimes have trouble putting back together!!
intake-paint_1.jpg  
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Unread 07-08-2010, 10:01 PM   #34
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... While spraying through the straw into the cylinder the straw flew off and went INSIDE THE CYLINDER! Now what do I do?? Do I HAVE to pull the head? I was not planning to do all that. CRAP! Need help...
Could you try turning the engine until the piston pushes the straw up higher? I know the whole point of all this was to get the engine turning.

That would make the chamber smaller and might make it easier to get the straw out.

If you can get the straw in a position where you can see it, you can use a $10 dodad used to retrieve stuff from small spaces. I don't know what they're called, but they're usually a long flexible metal tube with a metal grappler on the end. You use a spring-loaded push-button on the othe end to open and close the grappler. Cheap and low-tech.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 10:14 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
I saw you note that it wouldn't turn over but thought after adding the oil you might be able to get it to break loose. Another option is to bolt up the trans and starter and jump it to a battery to see if that will break it loose. If it is completey rusted solid you're going to have to pull the head anyway.
The bellhousing is still attached to the block (more on that later) so I can bolt the starter back up... good idea if I can't do it by hand. I'll try again tomorrow after the Blaster sits all night. Worried I might catch the straw in a valve though...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Could you try turning the engine until the piston pushes the straw up higher? I know the whole point of all this was to get the engine turning.

That would make the chamber smaller and might make it easier to get the straw out.

If you can get the straw in a position where you can see it, you can use a $10 dodad used to retrieve stuff from small spaces. I don't know what they're called, but they're usually a long flexible metal tube with a metal grappler on the end. You use a spring-loaded push-button on the othe end to open and close the grappler. Cheap and low-tech.
If I can turn the engine until that piston is at the top (as mentioned), it is possible I may be able to see the straw. The "grappler" is a great idea and I know exactly what you're talking about. And Clay LOVES Doodads!! That would probably do the trick. Thanks, Ken.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 10:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
If you can get the straw in a position where you can see it, you can use a $10 dodad used to retrieve stuff from small spaces. I don't know what they're called, but they're usually a long flexible metal tube with a metal grappler on the end. You use a spring-loaded push-button on the othe end to open and close the grappler.
Duh. I have one of those. Why didn't I think of that?

Sometimes we make things more complicated than they need to be.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 10:31 PM   #37
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Duh. I have one of those. Why didn't I think of that?

Sometimes we make things more complicated than they need to be.
Guess I'm off the hook with the drinking straw and fishhook!
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Unread 07-08-2010, 10:33 PM   #38
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The benefit of the vacuum method is that if you use a plastic vac tube, you don't risk scoring the cylinder walls.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 11:47 PM   #39
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Clay degreasing the block with a spray bottle of Purple Power. This stuff will do strange things to your skin, so wear gloves!

I think I got excited and shot the black to the head and valve cover already. Clay is masking off those areas in prep for the silver. All my life (nearly 50) I have wanted to do this. It is finally happening. Thanks, Clay.

Tape!! Is Our Friend! It can do ALL things! I like tape...

Clay shooting the Rustoleum. It is Aluminum high-temp paint. It is NOT the same as the metallic on the tranny. We'll see how close they come when they are joined.

Voila!
if you find that those latex gloves dissolve with Purple Power like mine did, you can get away with the blue colored Nitrile gloves with no damage! But maybe its just me, I have ten gallons of straight purple power in my parts washer.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 11:55 PM   #40
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if you find that those latex gloves dissolve with Purple Power like mine did, you can get away with the blue colored Nitrile gloves with no damage! But maybe its just me, I have ten gallons of straight purple power in my parts washer.
Funny you should mention that! The Latex gloves definitely disappear after a few minutes. Earlier, I was degreasing the intake manifold. It was crusty with carbon. I kept checking the gloves but they looked alright, just super black with crud. When I pulled them off I discovered that I had been looking at my fingertips, all black with the crud. Thought it was the gloves!

How does the PP compare to regular solvent in your parts washer? How long does it last? I have a friend with a bike shop and Safety-Kleen wants a contract to change it every 3 months. He is looking for alternatives.
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Unread 07-09-2010, 12:07 AM   #41
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Funny you should mention that! The Latex gloves definitely disappear after a few minutes. Earlier, I was degreasing the intake manifold. It was crusty with carbon. I kept checking the gloves but they looked alright, just super black with crud. When I pulled them off I discovered that I had been looking at my fingertips, all black with the crud. Thought it was the gloves!

How does the PP compare to regular solvent in your parts washer? How long does it last? I have a friend with a bike shop and Safety-Kleen wants a contract to change it every 3 months. He is looking for alternatives.
I have to admit this is the first parts washer I ever used and I don't even know if i`m doing it right. I generally just aim the nozzle on the part and let it run for hours or over night to loosen up some grease, then I scrub the crap out of it with either a"solvent proof" brush or a brass bristle brush depending on what i`m cleaning, then if I get tired of dealing with it I let it run some more. I got the purple power & brushes at walmart for cheap - then got the nitrile gloves at Autozone for like $14 a box - kind of a rip off but every now and then I use them rather than getting my hands dirty and its worth every penny.

So, let me know how the Safety-Kleen works and i`ll let you know if the purple power works similarly.
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Unread 07-09-2010, 12:09 AM   #42
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I should add that I forgot my output aluminum housing from the dana 300 in there for a weekend and it came out looking like a brand new casting.
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Unread 07-09-2010, 05:35 AM   #43
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The bellhousing is still attached to the block (more on that later) so I can bolt the starter back up... good idea if I can't do it by hand.
Scott,

Be sure to pull all six spark plugs before trying to turn the engine by hand. I use a 24" breaker bar and socket and it still takes a little effort. I agree that you can rotate the engine to push the piston up and get the straw out.

What is the condition of the motor?

Was it previously running or sitting?
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Unread 07-09-2010, 05:58 AM   #44
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Scott,

Be sure to pull all six spark plugs before trying to turn the engine by hand. I use a 24" breaker bar and socket and it still takes a little effort. I agree that you can rotate the engine to push the piston up and get the straw out.

What is the condition of the motor?

Was it previously running or sitting?
Good Morning, Dave. Yes, the engine ran very well before I pulled it... smooth and quiet. I am concerned about the rust in the intake ports on the block and manifold though. Thanks for the tip on the breaker bar. I'll use mine when I get home from work. All 6 plugs are pulled.

Ya'll have a good day!
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Unread 07-09-2010, 08:26 AM   #45
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The cool thing about following your build with your son is that it reminds me that I learned a lot from my father working on stuff in the barn for all those years. Now that I am working on my own Jeep things that he taught me are coming back to me all the time. We talk on the phone and I still run ideas by him to make sure I am not about to do something stupid!
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