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Clay's Build Thread

556K views 5K replies 145 participants last post by  Skerr 
#1 · (Edited)
I have been contemplating posting a build thread for awhile. After viewing some of the current ones I got really pumped! I also figured that as long as I was going to be asking for help fixing stuff I might as well have it in the thread... so here we go. My 16 YO son, Clay, and I are building his CJ5. It's a 79 that I acquired in a boat/Jeep trade nearly 2 years ago. I got it for myself but I don't fit well, so I got a 7 and gave him the 5. He is really stoked about building the Jeep and I can't think of a better father/son project. Clay will be doing the work while I supervise ;). The 5 has a 258, T18A, D20 with axles from an 85 CJ7, D30 and AMC20. Gears are 2.72. We will probably go to a 3.73 in the future. It will get the RC 2.5" lift, Procomp 9000 shocks, and a urethane bushing kit (already purchased). It also has a FG tub which will require a bit of glass work. We had already completed the frame resto when we discovered that we didn't do it right. So we took it back down to bare metal again, finding some rot and a few cracks. We should have those repairs made in the next couple of weeks. After that the frame gets POR-15 and black implement paint. In the meantime, we'll be working on getting the engine painted and installing the MC2100. In these pics Clay is prepping the T18A for paint. He wanted to paint it silver with a red stripe, but I put the Kibash on that! So he settled for a silver tranny and red shift levers... when we get there. He plans to paint the rig International red (tractor paint) with a silver tub floor. Hmmmm... maybe! It MIGHT look good. We just finished watching the entire Season 2 of the Rat Patrol... so guess what HE wants to mount up!?!? :laugh:
 

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#88 ·
Up shift Light

As best I can tell from the 84-86 wiring diagram, there is an up shift switch and the light that are connected to the EEC and the diagnostic connector. So looks like the EEC got info somehow.

If you have downloaded the FSM it is on the instruments and instrument panel illumination page on the far right.
 
#89 ·
As best I can tell from the 84-86 wiring diagram, there is an up shift switch and the light that are connected to the EEC and the diagnostic connector. So looks like the EEC got info somehow.

If you have downloaded the FSM it is on the instruments and instrument panel illumination page on the far right.
Thanks for doing that research. I have downloaded the FSM and I'll check it out.
 
#90 ·
We have returned! I feel like I'm cheating since we're not actually doing the welding, and so many of you have, but if it progresses the build with little cost, I'll do it! Here is AJ patching the rotted part of the frame. He repaired several boogered areas that the PO did... for some reason. It would be interesting to know the history of this Jeep! We plan to sandblast this weekend (uhhh... again) and then prime and coat. The goal is to do everything in one day. Already prepped Clay for a l-o-n-g day! Enjoy the pics...
 

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#91 ·
With the frame in the air AJ whacked both rails with a hammer. This is the stuff that fell out. I have racked my brain on how to clean/coat the inside of the rails but I can't figure it out!
 

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#93 ·
Scott,

I went to the car wash and spent a bag of quarters to blow out the mud and dirt. Then I brought it home and lifted the trailer tongue and washed the frame it out again. A few days later my daughter taped all the holes in the frame and I poured a quart of primer in each rail. We flipped, tilted and rolled the frame around to spread the primer.
 
#94 ·
Just an automotive primer or something better than that? I remember reading about it... I was thinking about doing it with Ospho then some chassis black, but I don't know if the black would stick. What do you think?

I experimented with a piece of 1/2" PVC. You can shove it up the frame rail without too much trouble. It's pretty flexible. If I wasn't so lazy I'd make a trip to the local plumbing shop and get the parts to adapt it to my shop vac. That should work well as far as getting out the loose stuff. Maybe stick a T on the end and fram around with it inside the frame knocking scale off the sides.
 
#95 ·
I used Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer. I think by description it would be a good product to use inside the frame where the potential of pre-existing rust is very high. Using a swab of some sort is a good idea to knock off loose rust before priming.

Technical Data Sheet

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/CBG_TDS Stops Rust Primers 209.pdf

"Rusty Metal Primer 7769 is designed for heavily rusted surfaces only. Clean Metal Primer 7780 is designed for lightly rusted, bare metal or previously painted surfaces."

"Remove all dirt, grease, oil, salt and chemical contaminants by washing the surface with commercial detergent or other suitable cleaner. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and allow to fully dry. Scrape and wire brush loose and/or flaking rust or deteriorated coatings. Apply appropriate primer to bare, slightly, or heavily rusted metal."
 
#96 · (Edited)
I used Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer. I think by description it would be a good product to use inside the frame where the potential of pre-existing rust is very high. Using a swab of some sort is a good idea to knock off loose rust before priming.

Technical Data Sheet

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/CBG_TDS%20Stops%20Rust%20Primers%20209.pdf

"Rusty Metal Primer 7769 is designed for heavily rusted surfaces only. Clean Metal Primer 7780 is designed for lightly rusted, bare metal or previously painted surfaces."

"Remove all dirt, grease, oil, salt and chemical contaminants by washing the surface with commercial detergent or other suitable cleaner. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and allow to fully dry. Scrape and wire brush loose and/or flaking rust or deteriorated coatings. Apply appropriate primer to bare, slightly, or heavily rusted metal."
I stopped at Lowes on the way home from work today. An employee told me that it is a "small store", hence the poor inventory. So I wasn't expecting much as far as metal prepping material. I found several chemicals that I think would work, however. Here is a list of the chemicals (that I can remember) on the shelf and what I know, or DON'T know! ;) My goal here is to find The Right Stuff to prep the exterior of the frame prior to priming.

Lacquer Thinner(usual stuff)- not gonna use it
V,P&M (or something like that)- don't know anything, label says cleans metal
MEK- old posts/threads say this works good, but dangerous?
Denatured Alcohol- old post/thread says this is good & I have some
Paint Thinner- not gonna use it either
Xylol(product of Toluol)- don't know anything
Pre-Paint Prep- green product, label says it works good
Acetone- mixed feelings about this, but I have some, always thought it good
Boiled Linseed Oil- not much info for metal prep

I would love to have everybody's insight. Thanks

PS- If a material, such as Acetone, is a solvent to a paint, then wouldn't it go by rule that that material could be used as a cleaner, to said same paint, without any ill effect after curing?
 
#97 ·
I did the same thing as 243. Blasted with pressure washer and got all the junk out, taped up holes and poured in the Rustoleum. After it dried, I used a inspection mirror and was able to see most areas. Had a good thick hard coat. Not sure what it will look like in 10 years, but better than nothing.
 
#107 ·
I was wanting to mount up Clay's 2100 to the intake. The studs are in the way! The adapter kit comes with hex head bolts that recess down into the adapter. I need the studs to BE GONE! I tried double-nutting them and backing them out, but both nuts turn. I know I can weld a nut to the top, but I was worried about it in case I can't get them out... then I've ruined the existing stud. Any suggestions??

Thanks
 

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#108 ·
Scott,

I would spray some PB Blaster or similar product on the studs and let it soak overnight at least. The dissimilar metals will corrode and it's possible to strip the aluminum threads when you remove the studs. And when you double nut and they spin, make sure your wrench only grabs the lower nut. And use some anti-seize on the new bolts that thread into aluminum.
 
#115 ·
Dead-On! They came out easy just like you said. Thanks for the tip.

Hope you got the studs out without breaking them Scott. If all else fails you may need to drill them out. If you have access to a vertical mill that's the best place to do it. You can do it with a hand drill if you're careful to center punch the stud before drilling and start out with a much smaller drill than the tap drill size. I think those studs are 5/16, but not sure if they're fine or course thread. 5/16-18 takes a letter "F" drill (.257) and 5/16-24 takes a letter "I" drill (.272)

Thanks for the updates and I'm enjoying the build! :thumbsup:
Thanks, Jim, for the suggestions on the drill bits. I didn't want to drill them out... I almost blew it on the exhaust manifold! Glad I didn't have to go that route.
 
#110 ·
If you need more help removing the studs, you could try heating the manifold with a blow torch. Try to avoid heating the studs. This might cause enough expansion of the manifold to allow the studs to be turned. Be careful about the PB Blaster though... It's probably flamable.
 
#113 ·
Having sons is one of the three greatest blessings in my life, but they are hell-on-wheels with tools! I can't find some of my wrenches. I know they're in the shop, but no idea where. I can't believe that a 3/8 combo wrench could hide so well. I said, "Clay, where's my 3/8 Craftsman"? and he said, "Uh... uh... don't know." !! When this is all done I'll get all my tools back... if the Tool Troll hasn't stolen them!

Thanks for the suggestions on removing the studs. All of them ideas I should have thought to do myself, but all I can say is that I had a Brain Fart! I have the Blaster, the heat, and the pipe wrench. Can't wait to get home from work and go at it.

Y'all have a good day... "see ya" this evening.
 
#114 ·
Hope you got the studs out without breaking them Scott. If all else fails you may need to drill them out. If you have access to a vertical mill that's the best place to do it. You can do it with a hand drill if you're careful to center punch the stud before drilling and start out with a much smaller drill than the tap drill size. I think those studs are 5/16, but not sure if they're fine or course thread. 5/16-18 takes a letter "F" drill (.257) and 5/16-24 takes a letter "I" drill (.272)

Thanks for the updates and I'm enjoying the build! :thumbsup:
 
#116 ·
A couple of questions... I have a phenolic gasket that would fit between the carb and the adapter plate. It's about 1/2" thick. I also have an ordinary paper gasket for that same application. Is there any advantage to lifting the carb up a half inch? If I go this route, I have to buy longer bolts.

I would like to replace the bolts and washers (at least the washers) used to attach the manifolds. The bolts have that big washer that pulls down on the shoulder of both manifolds as it tightens to the block. I have searched several websites but I can't find them. Is there a direct replacement (a complete set), or do I need to come up with something? If available, where should I be looking?

Thanks
 
#117 ·
Here is a pic with the manifolds in place (not tightened up yet) and a poser shot of the MC2100. Clay and I found that we've lost a manifold bolt... one of the small ones, with the heavy washer, that goes on either end. It's my fault :eek: as I am the one that removed it, to attach a chain, so we could pull it out of the frame.

Tomorrow is F-Day... Frame Day! From start to finish... unless someone is throwing up!! :2thumbsup:

Thanks everybody for your input on each issue. I cold not do this without my EJeep Maintenance and Repair Teachers!
 

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#118 ·
Did you check the chain for the bolt? Usually where I find bolts.

Engine looks great. Red fan makes it. One thing, maybe paint a one inch or so silver or red line around the top of the oil pan. Would make a leak easier to spot ( not that 258's ever spring a leak :))
 
#119 ·
Did you check the chain for the bolt? Usually where I find bolts.

Engine looks great. Red fan makes it. One thing, maybe paint a one inch or so silver or red line around the top of the oil pan. Would make a leak easier to spot ( not that 258's ever spring a leak :))
Good thinking, but it's not there. It was too short for a chain, so I took it out and put a longer bolt in. I put in a place so I wouldn't forget it, but I forgot it! :D

Painting a stripe is a good idea, but if it ain't killing the grass, then I ain't gonna worry about it! In truth, I thought you were going to suggest a stripe around the tip of the fan... I've been thinking some about that.
 
#122 ·
Today is not going as planned. I am aggravated! Clay won't focus. Mom is cranky. And I'm not on schedule. It is so hot and humid. My water separator won't keep up with the compressor. I can't shoot paint when the air is not dry. It's fixin' to rain and I have to paint what has been sandblasted. My break is over. Why didn't I use the dadgonfriggindurnblasted POR-15 like I planned!? Pray for me!
 
#144 ·
#123 · (Edited)
Good luck, painting anywhere besides an enclosed climate controlled shop is a crap shoot. And since this is me, I shoot a lot of crap :rofl:

If you are anywhere near Tallahassee I will take our 96 deg 38% humidity to your 86 deg 72% humidity any day of the week. :D

OK Scott, you must be spraying paint and dripping sweat all over the frame...heat index in North Florida is 95.4 F and 101.1 in Central Texas so you can't complain now :hahaha:
 
#124 ·
I lived around the southeast, and I've had occassion to go to the midwest a couple of times, and I was surprised how hot is was in those places. I've learned one thing... HOT is HOT! Today, our temp was 93*. Don't know what the humidity was, but you stayed wet with sweat. Heat index, online, said 99*, but the hottest temp I've recorded so far this summer, at my house, in the sun, was 112*!!
 
#125 ·
What an aggravating day. NAPA told me that they had a gallon of Prepaint Prep coming on the truck and would arrive this morning at 8:00AM. Called them and they said, "Nope! It'll be here Tuesday". I made 9 more calls looking for it. NAPA in Valdosta had it, but the paint guy there said I needed the 415. He explained it to me as being a 3 step process with the final process being an impervious coating... cost $125! Hmmm... I'm thinking POR-15! Why ain't I using it?? I called AJ and he had some PPP, said come and get it. So I went to his house, got the stuff, came back and started sandblasting... rather Clay did. Poor Clay felt like I was on his butt all day! Maybe I was... I didn't really think so. To his credit, he stuck it out, but we didn't get anywhere near finished. It was so hot and humid that I knew it was going to rain. But guess what... it didn't! Things just didn't go right. Sandblasting, this time, was slow as molasses in the winter. We never got halfway done. Me and Clay were tense with each other, and that just isn't the way it's supposed to be, building a Jeep with your kid. So I got disgusted with whole thing, grabbed a flapdisc, and started ahead of the sandblasting. 7 hours into the frame and we're not halfway, I broke out the Ospho and sprayed her down. I kept looking at my POR kit, specifically the Metal ready, and kept asking myself, "Why are we doing this"? So I wiped the whole thing down with Denatured Alcohol, sprayed it with Ospho, and finished at 8:00 this evening. Tomorrow, I will wipe it down with AJs Prepaint Prep and then prime it with the primer sealer he also gave me. I am hugely in his debt. The Ospho went right to work turning the metal black. I will use the POR kit on the tub of my 7. Here are some pics of the day.

First one is Clay sandblasting. I kept thinking about what one of the guys said about using a pressurized system. It's GOT to be faster. I just don't have one.

Second pic is what we (I) was racing against. Clay wasn't racing at all... just plodding along!

Third pic is something that we DID get done today. Something good...
 

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#126 ·
More questions for you guys!

First pic is the phenolic adapter for the MC2100. I currently have it mounted up with the paper gasket/adapter. The same rig I have on my 7, and it runs great. Should I use the phenolic one (any advantage) or for not worry about it?

Second pic... Is the throwout bearing installed backward? I have since changed it wround to face the other way. When I pulled the bellhosuing, it fell out, so I never saw how it was mounted.

Third pic, the bellcrank... what holds the "pushrod" in place? The end with the "ball and socket" is sloppy and seems worn. Does it just sit in there?

Thanks Y'all!
 

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#127 ·
More questions for you guys!

Third pic, the bellcrank... what holds the "pushrod" in place? The end with the "ball and socket" is sloppy and seems worn. Does it just sit in there?

Thanks Y'all!
Yea it just sits there. Kinda scary! I believe there is a kit you can buy that is a bit more secure.

Project is looking nice, my frame restoration is one step behind yours and love the motivation your giving me.
 
#128 · (Edited)
We made it to 96 today, it is still 94 right now, hot is hot but hot and humid is miserable!

I was using a pressure blaster today and I can say for certain, I would not try to sandblast an entire frame unless I had a compressor capable of putting out 20 cfm and a 1000 lbs of clean, dry sand. It is more efficient than a siphon feed blaster but it is still slow and uses a lot of sand and a whole lot of air, I am surprised I have not burned up the pump on my CF compressor.

I am using it just to get at the rust and places I can't get with a wire wheel or flapper disc. I am also very happy with the Norton RapidStrip not RediStrip discs that I picked up at Home Depot.
 
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