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Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

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Unread 07-24-2012, 04:33 PM   #3676
Turtle71
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I saw this and thought it was a pretty cool idea for soldering.
http://staceydavid.com/articles/tips...ing-clamp-4075

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Unread 07-24-2012, 05:19 PM   #3677
cjdogtoy
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there you go duct tape the spray cap to the inside of the dash or fire wall to hold things still.
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Unread 07-24-2012, 05:24 PM   #3678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
I saw this and thought it was a pretty cool idea for soldering.
http://staceydavid.com/articles/tips...ing-clamp-4075
genius!
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Unread 07-24-2012, 05:49 PM   #3679
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That's pretty cool! I'll see if I can do it under the dash, upside down! Thanks!
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 07-24-2012, 06:00 PM   #3680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Scott,

Getting the upper main seal out may be a bear, if you have to punch it out make sure you don't use a steel punch or you can damage the crank.
Skipper-

You DID remove the top piece of the RMS didn't you (what 243 is referring to)? I might be reading your post wrong, but it sounded like you just replaced the seal in the bottom bearing cap. The top one should be replaced while you are in there.

If you didn't, heed 243's advice and use a brass punch so you don't scratch the bearing surface.
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Unread 07-24-2012, 09:35 PM   #3681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pman View Post
Skipper-

You DID remove the top piece of the RMS didn't you (what 243 is referring to)? I might be reading your post wrong, but it sounded like you just replaced the seal in the bottom bearing cap. The top one should be replaced while you are in there.

If you didn't, heed 243's advice and use a brass punch so you don't scratch the bearing surface.
Yeah, sorry... didn't mean to mislead anyone. We had company, and I was trying to listen and type at the same time! Clay and I replaced both pieces of the RMS. I got the top piece out in whole condition, although it was brittle. I was careful to not scratch any of the bearing surface. I am, however, worried about the open condition it is in right this moment (oil pan is still off). I could not button everything up, as I said, we had comapny! So the bottom of the engine is open. I want to clean out the burned-in gunk that I see "up in the corners" of the block. Is it reasonable to spray it all down with brake cleaner or carb cleaner? Some kind of flush to get all the gunk out?

My Chilton's says, as near as I can tell, that the torque specs for the bearing cap is between 75-85 ft/lbs. Can anyone confirm this is correct?

Thanks, All...
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 07-24-2012, 09:41 PM   #3682
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Yes 75-85 ft lbs
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Unread 07-24-2012, 10:08 PM   #3683
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I've heard 100 ft lbs. I hate to make it confusing :/ I did mine to 100
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Unread 07-24-2012, 10:11 PM   #3684
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I looked in my manual.
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Unread 07-24-2012, 10:12 PM   #3685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
I've heard 100 ft lbs. I hate to make it confusing :/ I did mine to 100
100 for 304
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Unread 07-24-2012, 10:16 PM   #3686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher

100 for 304
Touché
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Unread 07-25-2012, 06:36 AM   #3687
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Catching up with what's going on. Not likely to hurt having the pan off for a short while Scott. My biggest concern would be the wind blowing sand up in there though, you have talked about that problem in the shop before. You sure don't want any gritty material in there. Diesel fuel would make a pretty good flush for the inside of the block. They make stuff for the outside, like gunk, but that needs to be flushed with water and you can't do that for obvious reasons. Brake cleaner might attack the seals too so maybe you need to stay away from that.
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Unread 07-25-2012, 06:58 AM   #3688
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Skipper a picture is worth a thousand words and we only had 250 words yesterday.
So I gotts to eat me words of wisdom I gave to you yesterday. The guys is correct thats yer oil pan gasket fro a four piece now Ya ll now have a one piece.

As Jim said its not really a big deal if you have the crankcase open for a few days, I would just change the oil or as Ya ll say earl after the first run to flush any crud out.

BTW the word CRUD comes from the nuclear field they built one of the first reactor on Chalk River and when they opened it up there was an unidentified deposit in the bottom, so they called it Chalk River Unidentified Deposits.
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Unread 07-25-2012, 10:45 AM   #3689
Turtle71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr
That's pretty cool! I'll see if I can do it under the dash, upside down! Thanks!
I guess I didnt fully understand the predicament you are in. I guess that's what I get for reading too fast
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Unread 07-25-2012, 12:29 PM   #3690
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I just usually slip the heat shrink over the one wire, strip 1/4-1/2" of each wire, mate them end-to-end with a little overlap, then twist them around each other so that they are inline (not twisted like a twisty-tie would be around the bread bag). This gives a solid mechanical joint, then a dab of flux if it is older wire and a good heating with the soldering iron while holding the solder to the other side of the wire. I may sometimes put a dab of solder on the tip of the iron (more than you wold when tinning it) which seems to help the heat transfer to the wire.
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