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Eliminate Hood Flutter!!!WJ Shackle Tabs: Tow-Hook Replacements2014 Spartan Locker Special - While Supplies Last! Dana 3

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Unread 07-14-2012, 02:10 PM   #3541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
I wish I had an army of little people!!! Looks like the OEM connectors to a motorcraft ignition module.
Let me explain to you how you too can have your own army!

Quote:
Originally Posted by acgcoug View Post
Nice, looking sweet with the grill and fenders on.
Thanks, Adam.

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Originally Posted by DutchJPR View Post
These two are from the Motorcraft ignition module, and yes, you do need this.

Nutter is for the Carter BBD with the emmision junk. Haven't seen anything like that jet. I think it's from '82 and up.......
Thanks again, Dutch. If I had gone a little farther I would have known, and I wouldn't have asked that question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Looks GREAT!
Thank you, Sir.



I am so winding down. Most of the wiring under the hood is "IN", but not necessarily "installed". I want so bad to fire it up, so Clay and I can both hear it run (or not!), but there is a lot of soldering to do. Some of it to the headlights and front running lights, and if I install the radiator we can't do the soldering. And I just don't feel like DOING any soldering right now! My hips hurt, my legs hurt, my back is aching... ohhhhhhhhhhh... Can't find a bracket to set the steering column correctly. It is too high as is. Clay says we're missing something. I think he is right. I can't get the grill level! No problem during mock-up, but she doesn't want to cooperate this time. Oh the HUMANITIES!




I need an alternative to these adjusters on the headlight buckets. They are plastic, and the adjustment screws slide inside the plastic cylinder. The little cylinder had plastic threads inside. How have you fixed this problem?

100_3080_1.jpg  
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Unread 07-14-2012, 02:47 PM   #3542
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Unbelievable, Team Kerr rocks again...
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Unread 07-14-2012, 03:34 PM   #3543
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You all got this thing looking more like a Jeep every day!
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My build thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji...build-1093702/
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Unread 07-14-2012, 06:56 PM   #3544
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Thanks Gentlemen!

We cranked it. Yup... cranked it. That was so cool. It cranks. rrr...rrr...rrr...rrr...rrr...rrr...rrr...rrr Sounds like dat! Won't fire, but there is so much wrong, and I know so little about ignitions.

Status...
Again, even though I supplied a part number to AZ, they gave my wife the wrong part. #$%(&^)(#@!)&)% They gave me the original style plug wires when I have done TEAM Rush upgrade. Stuck them in to see if we could make the engine go. No go!

Still have some soldering to do to make things right.

Can't believe how easy it is to connect the wires. Of course, there is plenty of wires that I can't tell where they go. Lots of loose ends, and any one of them could contribute to the non-fire.

I thought the ignition switch (the harness end) was large like the one on the steering column. It appears there are actually two plugs that plug in there????

-BIGGIE-
I have the number one piston at the top of the compression stroke (confirmed compression stroke).
The timing marks are on zero.
I set the distributor back in the block (after pre-oiling) with the rotor pointing (as close as I can get it) at number one cylinder. That became my number one wire.
I placed the wires on the cap according to Chilton's firing order. NOTE* My Chilton's says that number one should be pointing away from the block (perpendicular- directly towards the pass fender, 6:00 position).
Did I do right with my distributor?? The PO had number one pointing at the firewall, but the Jeep ran just fine. I figured he was 180* out.
But I don't know if it didn't fire because of any one of many other items. I was sort of expecting a belch, or fart, or something!

Had to arc across the solenoid. Checking against my 7, it looks like I have everything connected properly. This should indicate I have a bad solenoid??

Geeees, Guys. What a bunch of rambling! I am so sorry. I can't even begin to get my thoughts and questions organized!
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Unread 07-14-2012, 06:59 PM   #3545
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You have the timing/rotor correct Scott.

Pull a wire and put an old plug in it, ground the electrode to the block and crank it see if you have spark.

Stroke the carburetor and see if you get a squirt of gas, if not, you may have to crank it some more to fill up the carburetor bowl.

Get a fire extinguisher or some wet towels in case you get a carb backfire.

Just like this....

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Unread 07-14-2012, 08:46 PM   #3546
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It would take a least 20 seconds of cranking to get fuel to the carb. Do this in 2 10 second shots . Did you put any gas down the carb. Like said , check for spark, I've had coils go bad just sitting, double check firing order on the cap. It goes clockwise from #1 . Check for power with the key in run position at the ign. Module, the large red wire with the white stripe.
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Unread 07-14-2012, 08:56 PM   #3547
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Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
I set the distributor back in the block (after pre-oiling) with the rotor pointing (as close as I can get it) at number one cylinder. That became my number one wire.
Scott, you say you pointed the rotor at the #1 cylinder but you want it pointing at one of the cap towers. Is that what you did? That tower then becomes your #1.
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Unread 07-14-2012, 10:06 PM   #3548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
You have the timing/rotor correct Scott.

Pull a wire and put an old plug in it, ground the electrode to the block and crank it see if you have spark.

Stroke the carburetor and see if you get a squirt of gas, if not, you may have to crank it some more to fill up the carburetor bowl.

Get a fire extinguisher or some wet towels in case you get a carb backfire.

Just like this....

Gawd... how many times have I looked at diagrams and schematics and glossed over them. Now I am neck deep in hooey! Ironically, this diagram makes a little sense. I spent a fair amount of time tracing wires from the dizzy to the module. I also have 3, yes THREE 10# extinguishers standing by. Not because we're pyros or anything, but my FIL was in the industry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
It would take a least 20 seconds of cranking to get fuel to the carb. Do this in 2 10 second shots . Did you put any gas down the carb. Like said , check for spark, I've had coils go bad just sitting, double check firing order on the cap. It goes clockwise from #1 . Check for power with the key in run position at the ign. Module, the large red wire with the white stripe.
No fuel in the tank. I poured gas down the carb to see if I could get some kind of fire. I wasn't really expecting it to go on the very first try, but you can bet I was silently crossing the fingers of my imagination! Oh yeah, I did not check for spark, but I certainly will do that after I get the correct plug wires tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Scott, you say you pointed the rotor at the #1 cylinder but you want it pointing at one of the cap towers. Is that what you did? That tower then becomes your #1.
I have some uncertainty here. I tried to make the dizzy fit the application. If I turned it back one tooth it would point at the number 2 cylinder. One tooth forward and it was pointing sort of between one and two, but more toward one. (stay with me here!) One more tooth forward and it was past one toward the grill. So I turned it back one tooth so it pointed between. I got hung up on number one cylinder. The Ford cap goes on only one way. I turned the dizzy to make what would become the number one tower line up with the rotor. Should it be before, after, or dead-on the tower? Or is the whole process wrong?

This harness is not nuttered. Should it be nuttered as there is no computer? As Dutch pointed out it is for the BBD carb, but I'm assuming there is some component somewhere that needs some current that it's not getting because the computer can't control it, so shouldn't it be nuttered? Or is it moot?

Instead of trying for the gratification of hearing it fire, I will finish installing all of the wiring as far as I can go. Then I will post up pics for your critique. I fully expect to have to pull the dizzy one more time (or two, or three...), and I'm not certain I have everything grounded. For now, my block is grounded to the battery. Dizzy is grounded to the block. What else do I need for starting?

pman, I'm sorry I haven't gotten the WS frame on yet. Since you're at the beach I know you aren't thinking about your CJ, which is pining away at this very moment! Maybe you'll get to see it tomorrow... after your Commander-in-Chief drives you home.
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Unread 07-14-2012, 10:31 PM   #3549
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Don't think about it in terms of where the rotor is pointing in relation to the engine. Put the cap on and pick a tower to be number 1. Then take a sharpie and draw a line on the housing so you know where that tower is when the cap is off. Now bring it to TDC on compression, which you did, and set the distributor in. When you drop it in the rotor should point at the mark on the housing. Don't move the housing to make it point at it, then you are changing the timing. I think BioTex has a good post here called something like "How to find TDC and install distributor".

Here it is: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ho...ibutor-911745/
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Unread 07-14-2012, 10:38 PM   #3550
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Don't think about it in terms of where the rotor is pointing in relation to the engine. Put the cap on and pick a tower to be number 1. Then take a sharpie and draw a line on the housing so you know where that tower is when the cap is off. Now bring it to TDC on compression, which you did, and set the distributor in. When you drop it in the rotor should point at the mark on the housing. Don't move the housing to make it point at it, then you are changing the timing. I think BioTex has a good post here called something like "How to find TDC and install distributor".
So the number one tower can be anywhere... doesn't have to be pointing at the number one cylinder? The Ford cap has a factory labeled #1 tower, and the cap goes on only one way. Can't screw that part up!! Sounds like I need to pull the plugs again, go to TDC again, pull the dizzy and line up rotor with number one tower, and drop it back in. And the rotor should be pointing DEAD-ON the tower? Fixing to do some research. Can't sleep tonight... too keyed up. And I have church tomorrow. Gonna be tired!

edit* Just read Eric's write-up. Just what I needed. Thanks, Paul.
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Unread 07-14-2012, 10:43 PM   #3551
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Yep, you can pick any tower to be #1 and then follow the firing order from there. Point the rotor at your mark or a little before. When I installed my DUI I pointed it at my mark. Tightened the hold down a bit. Then I backed up the engine to 8* BTDC and rotated the distributor so the rotor was again pointing at my mark. Essentially pre-set it to 8* to fire it up and then dialed it in.

Oh... and get some sleep!!! You will get it tomorrow.... I have faith.
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Unread 07-14-2012, 10:53 PM   #3552
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I nearly forgot to mention the big excitment we had today! While Clay and I were working on the many things we did, there came upon us a sudden and severe storm. The wind blew hard. The rain pelted the earth. I was over in the corner, soldering some wires. Clay was working on mounting the steering column, fabbing a missing bracket. As usual, he had his head resting on something, in this case the rollcage. His hands were under the dash on the column/pedal bracket. I happened to look up when a bolt of lightning struck a tree ~80 yards away. Scared the you-know-what out of me, but Clay was shocked, as in electrocuted!!!!! Static electricity maybe?? I don't know enough about it, but he was woozy afterward, and he had to sit down. He was unhurt and recovered completely. Scared me bad. Never, NEVER thought we would be in any peril inside, COMPLETELY inside, a protected shop. Ya'll be careful.
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Unread 07-14-2012, 11:09 PM   #3553
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Okay... I see nutter is '83 and later, so I don't need to nutter.
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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Unread 07-14-2012, 11:55 PM   #3554
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sorry I can't really help with the wiring questions but the jeep is coming together great, I think I might have to change my mind on the color I use on mine, not that I'll ever get there at the rate I'm going. As to the lightning strike I've been told that the current travels along the ground in concentric circles until in all sinks in. Thats why your supposed to hop both feet together away from a strike, there is enough voltage drop from one foot to the next that if you step normally it can arc through your legs. Was the jeep on jacks or it's tires?
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Unread 07-15-2012, 12:15 PM   #3555
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Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
I nearly forgot to mention the big excitment we had today! While Clay and I were working on the many things we did, there came upon us a sudden and severe storm. The wind blew hard. The rain pelted the earth. I was over in the corner, soldering some wires. Clay was working on mounting the steering column, fabbing a missing bracket. As usual, he had his head resting on something, in this case the rollcage. His hands were under the dash on the column/pedal bracket. I happened to look up when a bolt of lightning struck a tree ~80 yards away. Scared the you-know-what out of me, but Clay was shocked, as in electrocuted!!!!! Static electricity maybe?? I don't know enough about it, but he was woozy afterward, and he had to sit down. He was unhurt and recovered completely. Scared me bad. Never, NEVER thought we would be in any peril inside, COMPLETELY inside, a protected shop. Ya'll be careful.
Could be the position Clay was in, more flat out than you, in standing-up position..... or even because he was with his head against a largre metal antenna (rollbar). Lightning has a very strong an un-predictable electric field.

Glad you're allright!
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