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TJ Wrangler 4" Rough Country Suspension Lift Kits in JEEP Gear Change Packages From ROCKRIDGE 4WD. We Are DIFFIron Cross Customer JK and TJ Wrangler Bumpers now at ROCK

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Unread 04-20-2012, 06:31 PM   #3031
Gido
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Yeah, you better find a dog house up north because if you have to sleep outside down here you will get carried off by skeeters!

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Unread 04-20-2012, 10:57 PM   #3032
mvigo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Sorry Scott, but that made me laugh!

I have been using Lincoln SuperArc L-56 ER70S-6 and it was worked out very well.
Scott,

I have been using this wire as well, works great. My Lincoln Electric is a few years older than yours...I use .030" wire with 75%/25% gas, just like Jim told me to do...hell, even my saw is the same as Jim's...
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Unread 04-22-2012, 09:34 AM   #3033
lucdog
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In my 26 hour of a 36 hour shift. There are some benefits though, And I didn't have to cook.

So what's up with the welder? And the 12 hour days?

Bill

image-298854605.jpg
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 09:35 AM   #3034
rixcj
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As far as I can tell, your mig machine appears to be set up correctly. To double check the polarity setting, you want the lead connections ( just below the drive rollers), to match up with the center (top) picture of the diagram.

Your gas is set at about 27 cfh, which should be fine. You may be able to get away with less, to save a few bucks.

A good way to check your drive roll tension (set by the spring loaded black knob), is to pull the gun's trigger, and shoot the wire into your opposite palm (WEAR WELDING GLOVES!!!!). If the wire stops when it hits your palm, but the drive rollers keep spinning trying to feed the wire, the wire tension needs to be increased. Increase it until the wire keeps feeding into your palm. Obviously, it will ball up and go every which-way, but that's what you want. To conserve gas, turn it off while doing this, just remember to turn it back on before welding!

If it's too tight, that's not good, either. It can actually cause premature wear of the drive roll system, and sometimes, deform (flatten) the wire as it comes out.

.062 solid wire is HUGE for what we do. That's used in real industrial applications for "spray" welding. For what you weld, either .030, or .035, is fine. Like Jim said, he uses .035 for everything....and you CAN. But I don't think that you'd ever regret buying .030. It's a lot nicer on thinner stuff, and will be fine for whatever thick stuff that you'll weld. I've welded 3/4" thick stuff with .030 wire....just turn the wire feed speed up. The cost of .035 is cheaper, though...

And, from what I've read and heard, there IS a difference in weld wire, as far as maunfacturers go. I've never had an issue, because I only buy quality mig wire (ESAB) from my welding supplier. If you but a lower quality wire (unknowingly, for most guys) YMMV. This may not be an issue with general fabrication and repair work, but I can't take that chance.

Another thing that I do is to use the next size up contact tip. If I'm welding with .030 wire, I'll use a .035 tip. There's less chance of an "issue" occuring, and it really doesn't matter, as far as the welding goes. It's just more forgiving.

I can bore people silly with this stuff, so I'll quit, now.

Rich
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There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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Unread 04-22-2012, 09:49 AM   #3035
jcal73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
As far as I can tell, your mig machine appears to be set up correctly. To double check the polarity setting, you want the lead connections ( just below the drive rollers), to match up with the center (top) picture of the diagram.

Your gas is set at about 27 cfh, which should be fine. You may be able to get away with less, to save a few bucks.

A good way to check your drive roll tension (set by the spring loaded black knob), is to pull the gun's trigger, and shoot the wire into your opposite palm (WEAR WELDING GLOVES!!!!). If the wire stops when it hits your palm, but the drive rollers keep spinning trying to feed the wire, the wire tension needs to be increased. Increase it until the wire keeps feeding into your palm. Obviously, it will ball up and go every which-way, but that's what you want. To conserve gas, turn it off while doing this, just remember to turn it on before welding!

If it's too tight, that's not good, either. It can actually cause premature wear of the drive roll system, and sometimes, deform (flatten) the wire as it comes out.

.062 solid wire is HUGE for what we do. That's used in real industrial applications for "spray" welding. For what you weld, either .030, or .035, is fine. Like Jim said, he used .035 for everything....and you CAN. But I don't think that you'd ever regret buying .030. It's a lot nicer on thinner stuff, and will be fine for whatever thick stuff that you'll weld. I've welded 3/4" thick stuff with .030 wire....just turn the wire feed speed up. The cost of .035 is cheaper, though...

And, from what I've read and heard, there IS a difference in weld wire, as far as maunfacturers go. I've never had an issue, because I only buy quality mig wire (ESAB) from my welding supplier. If you but a lower quality wire (unknowingly) YMMV. This may not be an issue with general fabrication and repair work, but I can't take that chance.

Another thing that I do is to use the next size up contact tip. If I'm welding with .030 wire, I'll use a .035 tip. There's less chance of an "issue" occuring, and it really doesn't matter, as far as the welding goes. It's just more forgiving.

I can bore people silly with this stuff, so I'll quit, now.

Rich
Rich I love ya brother. Very well said!

A couple more things are stick out (how far Clay holds from his work) and direction.
A shorter stick out will increase amperage, but will shorten the life of tips and nozzles. A longer stick out will lower amperage, but will increase spatter and the likelihood of porosity.

Direction is a subject of debate and someone who is schooled more than I (Rich) could chime in on that. I know if you are "pushing" too much you will blow your shielding gas away from your weld puddle letting porosity occur.

Also check your O-rings at the machine end of the welding lead.

Jeff
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Unread 04-22-2012, 11:19 AM   #3036
sertshark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
As far as I can tell, your mig machine appears to be set up correctly. To double check the polarity setting, you want the lead connections ( just below the drive rollers), to match up with the center (top) picture of the diagram.

Your gas is set at about 27 cfh, which should be fine. You may be able to get away with less, to save a few bucks.

A good way to check your drive roll tension (set by the spring loaded black knob), is to pull the gun's trigger, and shoot the wire into your opposite palm (WEAR WELDING GLOVES!!!!). If the wire stops when it hits your palm, but the drive rollers keep spinning trying to feed the wire, the wire tension needs to be increased. Increase it until the wire keeps feeding into your palm. Obviously, it will ball up and go every which-way, but that's what you want. To conserve gas, turn it off while doing this, just remember to turn it back on before welding!

If it's too tight, that's not good, either. It can actually cause premature wear of the drive roll system, and sometimes, deform (flatten) the wire as it comes out.

.062 solid wire is HUGE for what we do. That's used in real industrial applications for "spray" welding. For what you weld, either .030, or .035, is fine. Like Jim said, he uses .035 for everything....and you CAN. But I don't think that you'd ever regret buying .030. It's a lot nicer on thinner stuff, and will be fine for whatever thick stuff that you'll weld. I've welded 3/4" thick stuff with .030 wire....just turn the wire feed speed up. The cost of .035 is cheaper, though...

And, from what I've read and heard, there IS a difference in weld wire, as far as maunfacturers go. I've never had an issue, because I only buy quality mig wire (ESAB) from my welding supplier. If you but a lower quality wire (unknowingly, for most guys) YMMV. This may not be an issue with general fabrication and repair work, but I can't take that chance.

Another thing that I do is to use the next size up contact tip. If I'm welding with .030 wire, I'll use a .035 tip. There's less chance of an "issue" occuring, and it really doesn't matter, as far as the welding goes. It's just more forgiving.

I can bore people silly with this stuff, so I'll quit, now.

Rich
Great post. I am getting ready to purchase a welder, and I will be saving this info.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 12:38 PM   #3037
Cutlass327
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Wow, Rich just answered one of my questions I've had just come up lately - I ran out of .030 tips, then realized I was running .035 wire, which I didn't have any tips for, but I had .040 tips, so I used that. Worked fine - better than the .030 tips!
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 04-22-2012, 02:52 PM   #3038
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Wow, Rich just answered one of my questions I've had just come up lately - I ran out of .030 tips, then realized I was running .035 wire, which I didn't have any tips for, but I had .040 tips, so I used that. Worked fine - better than the .030 tips!
See! There ya go! All the wire has to do is make sliding contact with the tip as it's coming out.

Rich
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There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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Unread 04-22-2012, 05:07 PM   #3039
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Hey Guys... THANKS!! I appreciate the feedback.

Clay is finishing the rollcage now. He has ground down his welds and is hitting it again. He just put on a new spool of .030 wire, solid core. He is using an .035 tip because he didn't have any .030 (even though I told him to pick up a pack!), and as Rich said, it only needs to make sliding contact with the wire. I turned his gas down to 22, got the welder adjusted per the chart, and he's rockin and rollin! I THINK he felt like a Master Welder, since he is taking welding, and reading the instructions was below him!! I miced the tubing and it is between 10 and 12 gauge. So we set the machine, and it is purring! MUCH better...

It was I that tacked a lot of it together while in the tub, and when we removed it from the tub we had to force it out. Parts fell off of it!! So we put it all back in the tub, and he has it so things WON'T fall off of it this time. We are now ready to remove the cage, and let him go to town on it. I will begin the body prep prior to painting. Ain't no way it's going to be done by May 5. No way...

I put together a couple of Powerpoints for his graduation. One of them is your typical "sweet" one where you see him growing up, but the other one is ALL Jeep! It's a surprise. I think when he sees how much effort and time he has put into this project over these three years he will be touched and truly amazed. The music that accompanies it is Alan Jackson- Drive.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 05:10 PM   #3040
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BTW- He was using .035 wire, not .062. My bad. But he couldn't make it go. I think there is definitely a wire quality issue. And Rich, I will check the other points you made.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 05:20 PM   #3041
lucdog
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Glad you have things under control!

I'd like to see the PowerPoint, both of them.

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #3042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Glad you have things under control!

I'd like to see the PowerPoint, both of them.

Bill
It would be an honor! How do I do it?
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Unread 04-22-2012, 06:00 PM   #3043
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Oh yeah... I'm full of comments/questions today! Regarding paint. It has been several months since I sprayed it with high-build primer. Since then it has gotten dirty, smudged, banged, nicked, welded on, thunked, clunked, pushed, slightly greasy (dirty hands), etc. Do I just start sanding on it, or do I have to wash it with degreaser first? I need to hit it again with primer before the finish coat... Mil-Spec Desert Sand.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 06:06 PM   #3044
Gido
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Not an expert in much of anything but, I would say definitely clean it good before sanding otherwise you will be permanently grinding grease and dirt into the glass.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 07:00 PM   #3045
gmakra
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Skipper you want to get rid of any conamination before you proceed.
1 wash the tub like you wash a car.
2. Wipe down with wax and grease remover.
3. Fix your boo boos
4, Wipe down with wax and grease remover prior to primer and paint.

Make a note to your self "KEEP YER DIRTY PEACH PICKING HANDS OFF THE TUB" Had to say that since you live so close to Georgia cleanliness is importsant.
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