I have been on a 3-day high! Not a chemical high, but a "good day" high. Don't know why things are going so well for me. My family can't buy a vowel... we've been sick, on and off, this entire new year. Little guy has 104* temp, next little guy has 103*, wifey was 103* yesterday, and CRANKY
So I went straight to the shop when I got home, and got to work on Clay's differential. I took some pics as I was going with the intent of showing "how to do it", but you just can't take pics when you're doing this kind of work. I have some that I can share. To all you Noobs... if you are contemplating setting up your own rearend, gearchange , lunchbox locker install, don't be scared. It takes time, but if you have the motivation you CAN do this.
Starting with the stripped down AMC20 diff housing. Axles are removed. I have cleaned it up with brake cleaner, and it is spotless... except for a little rust!
These are the setup bearings that Paul sent me. He told me I could modify them if I needed to, but I decided I would make my own, as I have another CJ waiting in the wings.
I'm going to shave this race down a little at a time. I have this big 'ol floor sander, so it wasn't any work at all, but I still went slow and made lots of trips back and forth. When I was done, my race was easily tapped into place.
Finished product- I did this with both races on the pinion shaft. You don't do this for the carrier.
This is a 3.54 pinion sent to me by Bill. I am using the large bearing that is on the shaft. I have a reason for that, knowing that new bearings would be the *best* thing to do. This is the crush sleeve that was in Bill's Jeep, but I am using Paul's small setup bearing, as it slides smoothly onto the pinion shaft.
Setup races installed
Using my *NEW* Handy Dandy HF "Professional" impact to tighten down the pinion nut. You probably DON'T want to do this with your final setup and a new crush sleeve.
Using Paul's itty bitty 1/4" drive beam-type torque wrench. I want 14-16 inch-pounds of rotational force to turn the pinion shaft. This necessary force is called preload. Preload is created by the tightness of the pinion nut, forcing the bearing into the race.
Need to tighten it down some more.
Yiles! Clay making a cheater bar...
I couldn't put enough preload on the pinion without the cheater bar. When it came down to it, all I did was lift Clay and the axle off the table. I could not tighten the nut down anymore. I pulled the pinion back out and installed an additional shim behind the large race. Forgot to mention shims... I reinstalled the same shim back onto the pinion that came off of it. It had one fairly thick shim behind the large race. I have just now added another shim... .0075 ( the smallest in the set) to be able to create the proper preload. This was a SWAG, and nothing but a SWAG. Doesn't take much to make a big difference.
I installed the carrier making sure to keep the races matched to the bearings. In other words, don't mix them up. I had to use a dead-blow hammer to tap the carrier in, driving it in by striking the bearing races. Be careful not to bend the shims. Torqued to 50 FT/LBS.
Checking backlash with my *NEW* Handy Dandy HF Dial-Indicator (base sold separately). Bill had to talk me through this one, as I have never used a dial-indicator!
Another angle of how I set up the indicator.
Right at 8.5 thousands (?). Bill says between 6 and 10, preferrably at 8. Pretty dang good for a first-timer! Could I get away this easy? Stay tuned. Gear marking compound tomorrow...
Thanks to Paul and Bill who has made this whole thing possible. I hope everybody is well for spring break on the 3rd!