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SPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!FS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! Yukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon Zip

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Unread 01-15-2012, 04:23 PM   #2281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicR1 View Post
Opened up my garage to work on the TJ today… it was a balmy 65… I love Ca!!!! Except for the lack of snow in the hills right now………..

Airsoft is fun… hehehehehe, except for cleaning up the bb's when you are inside...
Bill... you are avatarless!! SUP with that? NO Airsoft in the house here. Good way to get yourself in some deep hooey!



Here are a couple action pics from today. We had an absolute ball! WM has these inexpensive ($10) 1911 knockoffs. They work well but you gotta be close. Those little jokers sting like fire!

dsc03059_1.jpg   dsc03079_1.jpg   dsc03081_1.jpg  
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Unread 01-16-2012, 01:21 PM   #2282
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Here are the LEDs and the plan I have/had. I think it has changed somewhat!? Some of you guys who have done LEDs will know the answer... I hope!

I bought the lights at WM for $15 a piece. I thought it was good price. The product looks good, and they're bright as heck. Being my first adventure with LEDs I may have done the wrong thing. That's for you guys to tell me. I can take them back if necessary.

I THOUGHT I needed a 4 1/2" diameter ID pipe for a receptacle, but a neighbor dropped by today and said I needed a 5" pipe with 1/8 wall thickness. He said the pipe has to have a lip for the rubber base to "snap" into. I can find 5" pipe if this is true. However, Clay is leaning toward oblong lights rather than the round so we can insert them entirely into the bumper. If we do that then I will save the round lights for MY tub when we finish his.

Need your input here...
dsc03121_1.jpg   dsc03131_1.jpg   dsc03127_1.jpg   dsc03130_1.jpg   dsc03132_1.jpg  

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Unread 01-16-2012, 01:28 PM   #2283
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And just for fun, here is the stash of pipe we bought to use for the cage and the welding table that the owner of the metal yard gave us. The table has a rather thin top, but we can weld some 1/4" to it if it ever becomes necessary.
dsc03133_1.jpg   dsc03134_1.jpg  
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Unread 01-16-2012, 01:57 PM   #2284
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LEDs look nice!
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Unread 01-16-2012, 05:41 PM   #2285
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Once again I have had my friends snoop around Skippers house and these pictures were emailed to me. As you can see Skipper and Bill are discussing LED install and heres a pic of Scotty doin a photo op
led-install.jpg   boat_minnow.jpg  
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Unread 01-16-2012, 07:21 PM   #2286
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Skipper... did I get it right this time?
minnow_1.jpg  
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Unread 01-16-2012, 07:38 PM   #2287
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This is the reason I don't go to Chicago.

Looks like a good time was had by all. Happy Birthday Clay.



Bill
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1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
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Unread 01-16-2012, 09:21 PM   #2288
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Happy birthday to Clay!!! Hey don't forget to go to the post office and register with the armed services in case they want to draft you. That was a long time ago for me but I still remember it!

Hope it's a great day for you Clay.
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My build thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji...build-1093702/
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Unread 01-16-2012, 11:24 PM   #2289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Here are the LEDs and the plan I have/had. I think it has changed somewhat!? Some of you guys who have done LEDs will know the answer... I hope!

I bought the lights at WM for $15 a piece. I thought it was good price. The product looks good, and they're bright as heck. Being my first adventure with LEDs I may have done the wrong thing. That's for you guys to tell me. I can take them back if necessary.

I THOUGHT I needed a 4 1/2" diameter ID pipe for a receptacle, but a neighbor dropped by today and said I needed a 5" pipe with 1/8 wall thickness. He said the pipe has to have a lip for the rubber base to "snap" into. I can find 5" pipe if this is true. However, Clay is leaning toward oblong lights rather than the round so we can insert them entirely into the bumper. If we do that then I will save the round lights for MY tub when we finish his.

Need your input here...
Scott...those led light grommets are meant to snap through a hole in 3/16, or 1/4 inch thick steel..whatever the distance between that "bead" or whatever you want to call it, and the part of the grommet that begins to taper out (3rd pic. down). Like,through the wall thickness of your bumper.

So...if the O.D. of the grommet, between the bead and the taper is 4.5", and the bead sticks out .125" (let's say...) you'd need to cut a 4.5" hole in your bumper. Then find a piece of pipe (tube) that had an I.D. at least large enough to fit over the bead. In our example, an I.D. of at least 4.75". This would be centered over your 4.5" hole on the bumper. Now you have a lip. You push the grommet in, and the bead will snap over the 4.5" hole.

So that DOES work out to be 5" O.D. pipe with a .125" wall.

Unfortunately, Clay's idea is probably better because your lights SHOULD fit entirely in the bumper, but they don't.

Hopefully, your bumper is the approximate thickness of the bead-to-taper distance of the grommet, for a nice fit.

Am I making sense?



Rich
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Unread 01-17-2012, 10:47 PM   #2290
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Yeah, my subscription ran out and my toy account is dry for a few weeks (spending too much money on the TJ!!!), so until it gets filled, avatarless I will be...

Personally, I like the round flush mounts, the oblong ones remind me too much of trailer lights.
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[COLOR="Red"]... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….[/COLOR]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sonics-05-tj-build-1168663/#post10985489"][COLOR="yellow"]The TJ[/COLOR][/URL]
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sonics-74-cj5-build-1106795/"][COLOR="DarkOrange"]1974 CJ5 BUILD THREAD[/COLOR][/URL]
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Unread 01-18-2012, 06:47 AM   #2291
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Usually the lights are installed in the metal without a tube. We use those things all day long on trucks and trailers. The 'glass may give you an issue, depending on how thick it is if that is where you are putting them. If the plans are in the bumper, depending on how thick the metal is, it should just fit in the hole you cut out. I've seen them put into maybe 1/8" thick trailer taillight housings, you might be able to go thicker, depending on the grommet. Those ones you have there look like the ones we have at work that are always a PITA to get the light in, once you fight to get the grommet in place. I looked on Google for a pic, but couldn't find a good one. I'll try to get a pic of one at work today. The ones we use don't have the large lip on the back like that one does, so it might not be as picky on metal thickness.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 01-18-2012, 07:52 AM   #2292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327
Usually the lights are installed in the metal without a tube. We use those things all day long on trucks and trailers. The 'glass may give you an issue, depending on how thick it is if that is where you are putting them. If the plans are in the bumper, depending on how thick the metal is, it should just fit in the hole you cut out. I've seen them put into maybe 1/8" thick trailer taillight housings, you might be able to go thicker, depending on the grommet. Those ones you have there look like the ones we have at work that are always a PITA to get the light in, once you fight to get the grommet in place. I looked on Google for a pic, but couldn't find a good one. I'll try to get a pic of one at work today. The ones we use don't have the large lip on the back like that one does, so it might not be as picky on metal thickness.
This is exactly what I thought
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 03:43 PM   #2293
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
Scott...those led light grommets are meant to snap through a hole in 3/16, or 1/4 inch thick steel..whatever the distance between that "bead" or whatever you want to call it, and the part of the grommet that begins to taper out (3rd pic. down). Like,through the wall thickness of your bumper.

So...if the O.D. of the grommet, between the bead and the taper is 4.5", and the bead sticks out .125" (let's say...) you'd need to cut a 4.5" hole in your bumper. Then find a piece of pipe (tube) that had an I.D. at least large enough to fit over the bead. In our example, an I.D. of at least 4.75". This would be centered over your 4.5" hole on the bumper. Now you have a lip. You push the grommet in, and the bead will snap over the 4.5" hole.

So that DOES work out to be 5" O.D. pipe with a .125" wall.

Unfortunately, Clay's idea is probably better because your lights SHOULD fit entirely in the bumper, but they don't.

Hopefully, your bumper is the approximate thickness of the bead-to-taper distance of the grommet, for a nice fit.

Am I making sense?



Rich
IIIIIIIIII haaaaaaad toooooooooo reeeeeaaaaad thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiissssss sloooooooooooooow. Nowwwwwwwwww IIIIIIIIIIIIII geeeeeeeet iiiiiiiiiiiittttttttt!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicR1 View Post
Yeah, my subscription ran out and my toy account is dry for a few weeks (spending too much money on the TJ!!!), so until it gets filled, avatarless I will be...

Personally, I like the round flush mounts, the oblong ones remind me too much of trailer lights.
Tighten up Bill! And I like the round ones better too, but Clay got some ovals last night. I haven't checked yet, but it's posible they could fit in the tub??? Hmmmm...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Usually the lights are installed in the metal without a tube. We use those things all day long on trucks and trailers. The 'glass may give you an issue, depending on how thick it is if that is where you are putting them. If the plans are in the bumper, depending on how thick the metal is, it should just fit in the hole you cut out. I've seen them put into maybe 1/8" thick trailer taillight housings, you might be able to go thicker, depending on the grommet. Those ones you have there look like the ones we have at work that are always a PITA to get the light in, once you fight to get the grommet in place. I looked on Google for a pic, but couldn't find a good one. I'll try to get a pic of one at work today. The ones we use don't have the large lip on the back like that one does, so it might not be as picky on metal thickness.
That was my original plan... to stick them in the tub. But I boogered that up by raising up the gas filler door and taking away the space for the lights. Now I don't have an area to mount the lights unless I glass up the hole for the gas filler, and I ain't doing it! So maybe we'll go oval in the bumper. I think the ovals would look better in the tub.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 04:02 PM   #2294
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If you really want to be different. Guys used tail lights from 73 to 88 GM trucks, and till 91 on Blazers, Jimmys, and Suburbans. I haven't done this, my BIL did, back in the late 70's. From what he said, the radius is the same as Jeeps.
Just a thought.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 05:54 PM   #2295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
If you really want to be different. Guys used tail lights from 73 to 88 GM trucks, and till 91 on Blazers, Jimmys, and Suburbans. I haven't done this, my BIL did, back in the late 70's. From what he said, the radius is the same as Jeeps.
Just a thought.

Bill
Thought about that, but I wanted the LEDs. Now we have these ugly oval lights!





And don't tell Clay I posted up this second pic. He got a DeWalt drill, some clamps, and a He-Man DVD... the struggle from a boy to a man!!!! Do I ever remember THOSE days!
img_6050_1.jpg   img_6054_1.jpg  
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