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Unread 01-05-2012, 09:33 PM   #2251
lucdog
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MoC is right, cool pictures. If it ever gets below freezing here. I'll hose down the front yard, so me and the grandson can do some donuts.


Watch my build thread for my UP, MI. Adventure.
Darn young police officers.

Bill

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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 01-06-2012, 07:51 PM   #2252
Skerr
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Here's another historic picture of Clay's Jeep. Showing where the PO wore away the inner fender with the tire, and nearly got his solenoid!
jeep-work-camera-017_1.jpg  
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 01-06-2012, 08:07 PM   #2253
lucdog
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Wow!………. You've come a long way Scott.

And I see the birthday Girl made Jeepforums again.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 01-06-2012, 08:23 PM   #2254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Wow!………. You've come a long way Scott.

And I see the birthday Girl made Jeepforums again.

Bill
Yeah... couldn't help it!
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Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 01-12-2012, 10:34 AM   #2255
scoutboater
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C'mon Skerr! I'm getting withdrawls here....

When is the next update?

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Unread 01-12-2012, 10:53 AM   #2256
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
...Here's a pic of the HF chop saw that I bought. It cut alright, but it's not speedy. Comes with an extra set of brushes. Okay purchase for the money:
I'm catching up on some old posts. I have the same saw and agree with you: It's not fast. I my experience, this saw has these problems:

1) Not great at cutting anything over 1/8" thick.
2) Heats the metal up (orange hot) while cutting slow.
3) Vibrates, especially when the cutting disk gets a gouge. The vibration causes the work piece to move out of position even if it's clamped in tight.

For quick and dirty cuts, it will work, but I've had better luck getting clean and accurate cuts with my HF angle ginder with an abrasive cutting disk. It's the kind of thing where you really start to appreciate the high priced saws used commercially.
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Last edited by Ken4444; 01-12-2012 at 01:01 PM.. Reason: Corrected a spelling error.
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Unread 01-12-2012, 11:47 AM   #2257
Cutlass327
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We have an older DeWalt chop saw at work, and it sounds just like you are describing. I was going to use it to cut the metal when I made my side steps, but the blade kept going off and cutting odd angles. It actually cut into the deck of the saw, the blade flexed so much. I don't know what kind of blades everyone else is using, but we get ours from Home Depot, figuring they'd be better than from HF..
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 01-12-2012, 03:53 PM   #2258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoutboater View Post
C'mon Skerr! I'm getting withdrawls here....

When is the next update?

Hopefully, we'll have a pipe bender here this weekend, and we can start "experimenting" with "shapes"! I expect to make yard ornaments and wind chimes to begin with!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
I'm catching up on some old posts. I have the same saw and agree with you: It's not fast. I my experience, this saw has these problems:

1) Not great at cutting anything over 1/8" thick.
2) Heats the metal up (orange hot) while cutting slow.
3) Vibrates, especially when the cutting disk gets a gouge. The vibration causes the work piece to move out of position even if it's clamped in tight.

For quick and dirty cuts, it will work, but I've had better luck getting clean and accurate cuts with my HF angle ginder with an abrasive cutting disk. It's the kind of thing where you really start to appreciate the high priced saws used commercially.
The HF saw touts 2 HP, but I think it is lacking in amperage. Some of you electrical dudes can explain that (I can't!). My concept of amperage is what gives a piece of electrical equipment its "oomph! when it starts. You can have high HP but low amps, as in the case of the HF saw. The trick with this saw is to NOT push too hard. You have to listen to the motor and cut slow. When it starts to bog, ease up. This saw will overheat if you push too hard, and then you'll burn it out. I think the Chinese knew that, hence the extra set of brushes. Also, there are certain clamping positions that work better when cutting. For example, I like to clamp angle iron with both edges down and begin cutting on the backside of the "V". I have not had any issues with the saw vibrating or pieces coming loose when cutting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
We have an older DeWalt chop saw at work, and it sounds just like you are describing. I was going to use it to cut the metal when I made my side steps, but the blade kept going off and cutting odd angles. It actually cut into the deck of the saw, the blade flexed so much. I don't know what kind of blades everyone else is using, but we get ours from Home Depot, figuring they'd be better than from HF..
Is it a chop saw (for wood) or a metal cutting saw? My Delta (compound miter) has lots of trouble when I use it to cut metal, that's why I bought the HF saw. I would definitely go to a different blade if it is wandering in the cut. I have never seen a DeWalt do that.
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Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 01-12-2012, 08:47 PM   #2259
lucdog
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Are you sure it not 12 amps instead of 2. Mine is 15 amps. I use the dewalt blades.
Mine vibrates a little, my SWAG is its the blade not the saw. If the disk that holds the blade were bigger, it would cut down the vibration.
I believe amps is like torque.

I should have multi quoted.
Who ever described the way to cut angle is the way I do it. If you notice when cutting flat stock ( 1/4" x2" lets say) , the saw will cut better with the piece upright and not flat.

Bill
forumrunner_20120112_213645.jpg  
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 01-12-2012, 10:22 PM   #2260
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Are you sure it not 12 amps instead of 2. Mine is 15 amps. I use the dewalt blades.

Bill
My saw is 2 Horsepower. Don't know the amperage, but it is unimpressive! I'll have to check it out





I'm looking for some 4 1/2" ID steel pipe. I need about 6" of it. Anybody have any ideas??
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Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 01-13-2012, 04:21 AM   #2261
lucdog
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Whoops, I missed the reading comprehension 101 class. Haha, most of spelling also.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 01-13-2012, 06:40 AM   #2262
gmakra
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Ok all you electrical neophites. Electricity has three basic measurements volts, amps and resistance.Most of the other terms you hear are combinations of these three. (there is more to it, but I am trying to keep it simple)
Volts is the velocity of the electricity think of it as water pressure.
Amps is the volume of electrons think of gallons per minute.
Resistance is friction.
Power (watts)is the total comsumption of electricity. To give you an idea of what I am talking about lets use a gallon of water. What we are going to do is fill a one gallon container. Now you can use tea spoons of water or pints, quarts any any size measuring device or combination of measuring devices as long as you fill this container to one gallon.
So power (watts) is overall consumption. One horsepower of electricty is 746 watts. It does not matter what voltage nor anything else. Its like a gallon of water its a contsant and to show you this I will show you a couple of simple formulas.

Power
divide
Current(amps) multiply volts
This is how you work the formula to find a missing value. If you multiply amps X volts it will give you power. If you know the power but are missing the amps you then divide volts into power.

Take a 1400 watt blow drier and you want to know how mamy amps it draws you would divide 120 volts into 1400 watts and you will come up with 11.66666 Amps. And if you take that 1400 watt blow drier and divide it by 746 watts you will see that it comes up with 1.8766 horsepower.

Now wire size can create resitance. You would not fight a forest fire with a garden hose since you wont get enough pressure or volume to really be effective. This also holds true with an extension cord, a long thin cord will create alot of resistance cutting down on voltage and amperage making your power tool sluggish it can also make your tool run hot which leads to insulation break down. A electric motor requires 7 time the run amperage to start. So if your toll runs at 10 amps it takes 70 amps to start.

So Scotty the up shot of all this is use a thicker extension cord your saw will probably run better. Also change the blade it sounds like a cheap one thats not balanced.
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Unread 01-13-2012, 07:42 AM   #2263
rixcj
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I have bought several metal cutting chopsaws over the years. Two of mine actually got stolen during the same burgulary. They were both Makitas, from the 80's-90's. Good saws.

There's a company called Enco Mfg. That sells tools, etc. Some of their stuff is just OK, some is just junk. They had a sale once, and they had 14" Enco brand chopsaws on sale for cheap money (like $79.00...). So, I bought one. It was SO BAD, that I went out and bought new brushes (right away), just to see if that made a difference. It didn't. That thing was so bad, it would just about cut a metal coathanger. It would just die as soon as the wheel touched the metal. I have no time for this. I threw it out.

When I bought my current chop saw, about 10 years ago, I really shopped around. I settled on another Makita that has a special feature that the others (back then, anyway) didn't have.

It had a spring loaded wheel/handle (the upper assembly). You can lock in piece of metal , hit the start trigger, then the whole upper assembly can be pulled toward the operator (it's under spring tension). As the wheel is lowered vertically onto the metal, the spring action also pulls the upper assembly (the wheel) horizontally into the metal.

I don't use this feature every time, but after a while, you learn when it's advantageous to do so. Good saw.

Rich
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Unread 01-13-2012, 09:58 AM   #2264
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I have the DeWalt metal cutting chop saw. Pretty good, but pricey! It is good for quick cuts. But in all honesty, I use my HF band saw the most. It amazingly cuts perfectly straight, every time. Bought it on sale and then used a 20% coupon, so I think I spent about $120. Best $120 I have spent in a while.
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Unread 01-13-2012, 12:06 PM   #2265
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I agree...a decent horizontal metal cutting bandsaw is much better than a chop saw. I have a pretty nice bandsaw, and cut most of my metal on that, if I want a nice "cut edge". If it's too critical, I'll use my ironworker. It'll shear 5/8" thick plate 14" wide, and can cut 4" x 4" x 3/8" angle iron.

Rich
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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