Clay's Build Thread - Page 8 - JeepForum.com

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post #106 of 5422 Old 07-15-2010, 05:03 AM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
What does AJ say? He seems to know about this stuff.
AJ says to use a material called Prepaint Prep. It contains Heptane and Toluene. He has a can in his shop... maybe NAPA carries it. He says don't use Acetone; don't use denatured alcohol; don't use POR-15 unless you (I) have more rust. He says use a good automotive primer, scuff, then apply chassis black. There are a lot of guys on here that are going to disagree with these comments. I've seen too many builds using POR that I was impressed enough to buy it myself. Now I'm told not to use it. I feel like AJ is wrong in this case, but I have too much respect for him to disagree. I know his way will work. It has for many years, but I also know that someone else has a successful method. I just want to get it right this time!


Kerrdog
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post #107 of 5422 Old 07-15-2010, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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I was wanting to mount up Clay's 2100 to the intake. The studs are in the way! The adapter kit comes with hex head bolts that recess down into the adapter. I need the studs to BE GONE! I tried double-nutting them and backing them out, but both nuts turn. I know I can weld a nut to the top, but I was worried about it in case I can't get them out... then I've ruined the existing stud. Any suggestions??

Thanks
Attached Thumbnails
studs_1.JPG  

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post #108 of 5422 Old 07-15-2010, 08:01 PM
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Scott,

I would spray some PB Blaster or similar product on the studs and let it soak overnight at least. The dissimilar metals will corrode and it's possible to strip the aluminum threads when you remove the studs. And when you double nut and they spin, make sure your wrench only grabs the lower nut. And use some anti-seize on the new bolts that thread into aluminum.

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #109 of 5422 Old 07-15-2010, 09:17 PM
jeepwhore
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Small pipe wrench will take 'em out with ease.

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
:-D
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post #110 of 5422 Old 07-15-2010, 09:18 PM
Ken4444
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If you need more help removing the studs, you could try heating the manifold with a blow torch. Try to avoid heating the studs. This might cause enough expansion of the manifold to allow the studs to be turned. Be careful about the PB Blaster though... It's probably flamable.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #111 of 5422 Old 07-15-2010, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
I feel like AJ is wrong in this case, but I have too much respect for him to disagree. I know his way will work. It has for many years, but I also know that someone else has a successful method. I just want to get it right this time!
There's more than one way to skin a cat. I suspect that AJ has been around long enough that he has seen fine results without having to use any of the more recent products on the market.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #112 of 5422 Old 07-15-2010, 11:25 PM
Coiz
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Garage
^^^ What Dave said and heat is also very effective like Ken said.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #113 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 05:03 AM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Having sons is one of the three greatest blessings in my life, but they are hell-on-wheels with tools! I can't find some of my wrenches. I know they're in the shop, but no idea where. I can't believe that a 3/8 combo wrench could hide so well. I said, "Clay, where's my 3/8 Craftsman"? and he said, "Uh... uh... don't know." !! When this is all done I'll get all my tools back... if the Tool Troll hasn't stolen them!

Thanks for the suggestions on removing the studs. All of them ideas I should have thought to do myself, but all I can say is that I had a Brain Fart! I have the Blaster, the heat, and the pipe wrench. Can't wait to get home from work and go at it.

Y'all have a good day... "see ya" this evening.

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #114 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 06:37 AM
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Hope you got the studs out without breaking them Scott. If all else fails you may need to drill them out. If you have access to a vertical mill that's the best place to do it. You can do it with a hand drill if you're careful to center punch the stud before drilling and start out with a much smaller drill than the tap drill size. I think those studs are 5/16, but not sure if they're fine or course thread. 5/16-18 takes a letter "F" drill (.257) and 5/16-24 takes a letter "I" drill (.272)

Thanks for the updates and I'm enjoying the build!
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post #115 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
Small pipe wrench will take 'em out with ease.
Dead-On! They came out easy just like you said. Thanks for the tip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Hope you got the studs out without breaking them Scott. If all else fails you may need to drill them out. If you have access to a vertical mill that's the best place to do it. You can do it with a hand drill if you're careful to center punch the stud before drilling and start out with a much smaller drill than the tap drill size. I think those studs are 5/16, but not sure if they're fine or course thread. 5/16-18 takes a letter "F" drill (.257) and 5/16-24 takes a letter "I" drill (.272)

Thanks for the updates and I'm enjoying the build!
Thanks, Jim, for the suggestions on the drill bits. I didn't want to drill them out... I almost blew it on the exhaust manifold! Glad I didn't have to go that route.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #116 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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A couple of questions... I have a phenolic gasket that would fit between the carb and the adapter plate. It's about 1/2" thick. I also have an ordinary paper gasket for that same application. Is there any advantage to lifting the carb up a half inch? If I go this route, I have to buy longer bolts.

I would like to replace the bolts and washers (at least the washers) used to attach the manifolds. The bolts have that big washer that pulls down on the shoulder of both manifolds as it tightens to the block. I have searched several websites but I can't find them. Is there a direct replacement (a complete set), or do I need to come up with something? If available, where should I be looking?

Thanks

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #117 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a pic with the manifolds in place (not tightened up yet) and a poser shot of the MC2100. Clay and I found that we've lost a manifold bolt... one of the small ones, with the heavy washer, that goes on either end. It's my fault as I am the one that removed it, to attach a chain, so we could pull it out of the frame.

Tomorrow is F-Day... Frame Day! From start to finish... unless someone is throwing up!!

Thanks everybody for your input on each issue. I cold not do this without my EJeep Maintenance and Repair Teachers!
Attached Thumbnails
man-carb mock.JPG   manifolds-carb mockup.JPG  

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post #118 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 07:39 PM
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Did you check the chain for the bolt? Usually where I find bolts.

Engine looks great. Red fan makes it. One thing, maybe paint a one inch or so silver or red line around the top of the oil pan. Would make a leak easier to spot ( not that 258's ever spring a leak )

Currently in pieces - all of them
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post #119 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow85cj View Post
Did you check the chain for the bolt? Usually where I find bolts.

Engine looks great. Red fan makes it. One thing, maybe paint a one inch or so silver or red line around the top of the oil pan. Would make a leak easier to spot ( not that 258's ever spring a leak )
Good thinking, but it's not there. It was too short for a chain, so I took it out and put a longer bolt in. I put in a place so I wouldn't forget it, but I forgot it!

Painting a stripe is a good idea, but if it ain't killing the grass, then I ain't gonna worry about it! In truth, I thought you were going to suggest a stripe around the tip of the fan... I've been thinking some about that.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #120 of 5422 Old 07-16-2010, 08:12 PM
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Team Kerr is on a roll...looks great!

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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