Clay's Build Thread - Page 34 - JeepForum.com
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post #496 of 5466 Old 10-25-2010, 02:25 PM
benullman
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check here scott, im going to order some tools from them. I have heard good stuff about them.

TP Tools & Equipment

Also, use primer when you can run your hand and feel bumps but you cant see them. Does that make sense? Once you have filled all the larger visible spots you can move onto some nice 2K primer.

Ben

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post #497 of 5466 Old 10-25-2010, 02:40 PM
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Rick- Thanks for the link. It has a TON of info!



Thanks, Jim. Not another... just a REAL one! Would you make me another ??
That is a great link Rick posted. I printed it off too.

I'll have to talk to my engineering dept over in China and see what kind of junk we can come up with.


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post #498 of 5466 Old 10-25-2010, 04:22 PM
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check here scott, im going to order some tools from them. I have heard good stuff about them.

TP Tools & Equipment

Also, use primer when you can run your hand and feel bumps but you cant see them. Does that make sense? Once you have filled all the larger visible spots you can move onto some nice 2K primer.

Ben
X2 on TP Tools. Excellent service and quality on every air tool I have ordered

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post #499 of 5466 Old 10-26-2010, 06:38 AM
gmakra
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Alrighty Clay here is my recipe for really good body work.

1. Lots o patience
2. A Clip board and a roll of wax paper.
3. A Stanley half round surfoam blade looks like a cheese grater in the tool isle.
4. 1 Spray can of cheap black paint preferably lacquer
5. Sanding blocks if you can afford it buy your self a set of Dura Block sanding blocks about 60-80 dollars
6. Lots of paper towels

First you need to rough up the area were the body filler will go with a 80 grit disk so that the filler has something to grab onto.

Next tear a sheet of wax paper and put on the clip board this will be were you will be mixing the body filler. I use a spoon to grab a gob of filler and dump it onto the wax paper and mix away.

Apply filler to the area but leave it a bit high dont try to smooth it out too much to the surrounding area.

Remove the wax paper and toss wipe the applicator with a paper towel and also toss when applicator is completely clean.

Take the Surfoam AKA cheese grater and move in a 45 degree angle and remove the skin from the body filler and roughly shape the filler to the surrounding body work.

You can use an air file with 80 grit to remove the the rough spots from the cheese grater. But hand sanding seems to work faster and easier. Next move up to 180 grit and smooth it out.

Next spray the paint on the surface what you want to do is dust the surface with paint. You should only be able to see the paint as speckles on the body work. This is your guide coat as you hand sand with 180 the paint in the high spots will wear away showing you the low spots. sand in on direction then sand 90 degrees to the original. Dont chase the low spots sand evenly across the surface till its all level.

If you need to apply more filler repeat the process above.

Close your eyes and run your hand all over the area you worked on if there is anything like waves or bumps you will feel them. Look and see if there is more sanding or more filler needed.

Once you are happy with your work wipe off the area with wax and grease remover using paper towels then spray the work with a epoxy primer. Dont use self etching primer as it contains acid and may effect your top coats.

Next apply a good 2K primer this is a heavy bodied primer surfacer This will fill in pin holes and minor surface imperfections. Sand with 320 wet or dry paper using the criss cross method when the the surface is fairly level apply another guide coat and and sand till the guide coat disappears. Then a finnal sanding with 500 and your ready for your top coat.

If you notice most of this is hand sanded power sanders are a bit hard to control they make a lot of nosie and arent that much faster.

Next Bondo is ok but its very old technology, its very hard and not flexible. When you go for a refill I would suggest any thing by EverCoat.

Evercoat Rage Gold Premium Body Filler - TP Tools & Equipment

Its easy to sand and its flexible. They even make a 2K primer called URO Fill its what I use its almost like spray on body filler and primer combined and will make your life easier.
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post #500 of 5466 Old 10-26-2010, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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GMAKRA... That is completely awesome. I appreciate so much you taking the time to write that down. I had hopes of using tools to do the sanding. It's ironic that you meniton hand sanding as my air inline died after less than an hour! It does not seem to want to be resurrected either! Clay and I used it this evening in "manual mode", pushing it back and forth. What joy! We're using 80 grit now to take down the Bondo, but it gets a little clogged. I think we're approaching the time for the primer. We'll get pics when we get there. This is a great learning experience.


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post #501 of 5466 Old 10-26-2010, 08:45 PM
FamillyCJ7
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Man Scott. I hate being sick! Missed out on seeing all the work you have done. Looks like everything is coming together though. I'm feeling better now though thank god, they thought I had appendicitis but I'm feeling much better and and getting back to the Jeep full force.

'83 CJ7 258I6 4-Speed Father Daughter Project - Using Monstaliner/Chassis Saver and Products from CrabTreeTool
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post #502 of 5466 Old 10-26-2010, 08:49 PM
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GMAKRA... That is completely awesome. I appreciate so much you taking the time to write that down. I had hopes of using tools to do the sanding. It's ironic that you meniton hand sanding as my air inline died after less than an hour! It does not seem to want to be resurrected either! Clay and I used it this evening in "manual mode", pushing it back and forth. What joy! We're using 80 grit now to take down the Bondo, but it gets a little clogged. I think we're approaching the time for the primer. We'll get pics when we get there. This is a great learning experience.

I partially agree with Gmakra. I like to do alot of hand sanding to really get it smooth. The Key is to know when to use anair tool and when to stop and use feeling. When you lay down some bondo and 2-3 coats of primer. Its fine to slap some 120 on there and get it knocked down. But know when its time to pull out the sanding block and the hose and wetsand it and tweak it. Once I go over it with 150-180 after a few coats of primer, its all glazing putty and sanding blocks/pads from there.

Good luck with the rest! Im hoping to get some parts hot dipped so I can start painting soon!

Ben
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post #503 of 5466 Old 10-27-2010, 07:46 AM
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Ben you hit the nail on the head, but for someone new to the subject control of the air file or DA is an acquired skill that takes time. And a Viking air file is 200 a Hutchins is even more so most people wont buy one for a small project. The other basic problem I see is bad sand paper some of the big box store stuff is expensive and junk. Norton, 3M and Indrsa are good papers.

Clay here is a link to Dura Block Dura-Block Large Kit: Autobody Store

and the Surfoam Stanley Surform 10" half round (Cheese Grater) Blade: Autobody Store
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post #504 of 5466 Old 10-27-2010, 12:00 PM
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Is the cheesegrater necessary with lightweight filler?

I resisted the urge to use it on my daughter's truck.

to the Durablocks

Dave's 78 Build
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post #505 of 5466 Old 10-28-2010, 05:18 AM
gmakra
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243 it will make you life easier since all body fillers form a tacky skin over themselves as they harden.
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post #506 of 5466 Old 10-28-2010, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by gmakra View Post
Ben you hit the nail on the head, but for someone new to the subject control of the air file or DA is an acquired skill that takes time. And a Viking air file is 200 a Hutchins is even more so most people wont buy one for a small project. The other basic problem I see is bad sand paper some of the big box store stuff is expensive and junk. Norton, 3M and Indrsa are good papers.

Clay here is a link to Dura Block Dura-Block Large Kit: Autobody Store

and the Surfoam Stanley Surform 10" half round (Cheese Grater) Blade: Autobody Store
Speaking as a person that has very little experience in body work that's some very helpful and practical information you're posting. Thanks and keep it coming.


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post #507 of 5466 Old 10-28-2010, 07:43 AM
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Thanks Jim as a kid I worked in body shops in the early 70s and alot has changed since then. I have a CJ that I am currently repainting now since I wanted to do the the work myself I researched the subject thoroughly. Mostly for self satisfaction and since I am changing color I wanted to do the project correctly.

I have been taking pictures and will be starting a body work/ paint thread here soon. The plan is to show how
and why with the new materials available.

George
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post #508 of 5466 Old 10-28-2010, 07:54 AM
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Great info that will soon help me with my body work. Looking forward to the pics. Thanks

86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.

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A ton more pics here.

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post #509 of 5466 Old 10-28-2010, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gmakra View Post
Thanks Jim as a kid I worked in body shops in the early 70s and alot has changed since then. I have a CJ that I am currently repainting now since I wanted to do the the work myself I researched the subject thoroughly. Mostly for self satisfaction and since I am changing color I wanted to do the project correctly.

I have been taking pictures and will be starting a body work/ paint thread here soon. The plan is to show how
and why with the new materials available.


George
Well?? We're waiting....

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #510 of 5466 Old 10-28-2010, 03:33 PM
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Evercoat is great stuff. I've used it quite a bit when I was working in body shops. It's very easy to sand and is flexible like said above. It also experiences less shrinking and expanding during changes in temp which keeps cracking to a minimum. Evercoat or any body filler shouldn't be used in excess though.

You have a fiberglass body. For areas needing built up quite a bit I would use fiberglass filler since it is stronger and will bond well to the fiberglass panels. Duraglass is a good fiberglass filler. Evercoat also has a good fiberglass filler it's called Everglass. I would use one of those over repair areas to get them even then use Evercoat Rage Extreme for finishing. They say filler can be 1/8" thick but most auto body professionals say that 1/8 is a lil much and try to stay around 1/16 max.

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