Clay's Build Thread - Page 203 - JeepForum.com

 48Likes
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #3031 of 5466 Old 04-20-2012, 05:31 PM
Gido
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 272
Yeah, you better find a dog house up north because if you have to sleep outside down here you will get carried off by skeeters!


"At first you don't succeed, get a bigger Hammer!"

in memory of Jimmy Smith - a wise man
Gido is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #3032 of 5466 Old 04-20-2012, 09:57 PM
mvigo
Web Wheeler
 
mvigo's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,444
Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Sorry Scott, but that made me laugh!

I have been using Lincoln SuperArc L-56 ER70S-6 and it was worked out very well.
Scott,

I have been using this wire as well, works great. My Lincoln Electric is a few years older than yours...I use .030" wire with 75%/25% gas, just like Jim told me to do...hell, even my saw is the same as Jim's...

1985 CJ-7, fuel injected 258, 2.5" Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Lift, 1" Body lift, Crabtree Shackle Hangers, T-5, Dana 300 w/ 4:1 Teralow kit, Dana 30, AMC 20 w/1 piece axle, 3.73 's with Detroit Truetrac front and rear, riding on 32x11.5x15" Cooper Discoverer STT mud terrains
mvigo is offline  
post #3033 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 08:34 AM
lucdog
Web Wheeler
 
lucdog's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,771
In my 26 hour of a 36 hour shift. There are some benefits though, And I didn't have to cook.

So what's up with the welder? And the 12 hour days?

Bill

image-298854605.jpg

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
lucdog is offline  
 
post #3034 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 08:35 AM
rixcj
Web Wheeler
 
rixcj's Avatar
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Saunderstown
Posts: 2,359
As far as I can tell, your mig machine appears to be set up correctly. To double check the polarity setting, you want the lead connections ( just below the drive rollers), to match up with the center (top) picture of the diagram.

Your gas is set at about 27 cfh, which should be fine. You may be able to get away with less, to save a few bucks.

A good way to check your drive roll tension (set by the spring loaded black knob), is to pull the gun's trigger, and shoot the wire into your opposite palm (WEAR WELDING GLOVES!!!!). If the wire stops when it hits your palm, but the drive rollers keep spinning trying to feed the wire, the wire tension needs to be increased. Increase it until the wire keeps feeding into your palm. Obviously, it will ball up and go every which-way, but that's what you want. To conserve gas, turn it off while doing this, just remember to turn it back on before welding!

If it's too tight, that's not good, either. It can actually cause premature wear of the drive roll system, and sometimes, deform (flatten) the wire as it comes out.

.062 solid wire is HUGE for what we do. That's used in real industrial applications for "spray" welding. For what you weld, either .030, or .035, is fine. Like Jim said, he uses .035 for everything....and you CAN. But I don't think that you'd ever regret buying .030. It's a lot nicer on thinner stuff, and will be fine for whatever thick stuff that you'll weld. I've welded 3/4" thick stuff with .030 wire....just turn the wire feed speed up. The cost of .035 is cheaper, though...

And, from what I've read and heard, there IS a difference in weld wire, as far as maunfacturers go. I've never had an issue, because I only buy quality mig wire (ESAB) from my welding supplier. If you but a lower quality wire (unknowingly, for most guys) YMMV. This may not be an issue with general fabrication and repair work, but I can't take that chance.

Another thing that I do is to use the next size up contact tip. If I'm welding with .030 wire, I'll use a .035 tip. There's less chance of an "issue" occuring, and it really doesn't matter, as far as the welding goes. It's just more forgiving.

I can bore people silly with this stuff, so I'll quit, now.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
rixcj is offline  
post #3035 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 08:49 AM
jcal73
Registered User
 
jcal73's Avatar
2015 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Alabama Roll Tide
Posts: 1,163
Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
As far as I can tell, your mig machine appears to be set up correctly. To double check the polarity setting, you want the lead connections ( just below the drive rollers), to match up with the center (top) picture of the diagram.

Your gas is set at about 27 cfh, which should be fine. You may be able to get away with less, to save a few bucks.

A good way to check your drive roll tension (set by the spring loaded black knob), is to pull the gun's trigger, and shoot the wire into your opposite palm (WEAR WELDING GLOVES!!!!). If the wire stops when it hits your palm, but the drive rollers keep spinning trying to feed the wire, the wire tension needs to be increased. Increase it until the wire keeps feeding into your palm. Obviously, it will ball up and go every which-way, but that's what you want. To conserve gas, turn it off while doing this, just remember to turn it on before welding!

If it's too tight, that's not good, either. It can actually cause premature wear of the drive roll system, and sometimes, deform (flatten) the wire as it comes out.

.062 solid wire is HUGE for what we do. That's used in real industrial applications for "spray" welding. For what you weld, either .030, or .035, is fine. Like Jim said, he used .035 for everything....and you CAN. But I don't think that you'd ever regret buying .030. It's a lot nicer on thinner stuff, and will be fine for whatever thick stuff that you'll weld. I've welded 3/4" thick stuff with .030 wire....just turn the wire feed speed up. The cost of .035 is cheaper, though...

And, from what I've read and heard, there IS a difference in weld wire, as far as maunfacturers go. I've never had an issue, because I only buy quality mig wire (ESAB) from my welding supplier. If you but a lower quality wire (unknowingly) YMMV. This may not be an issue with general fabrication and repair work, but I can't take that chance.

Another thing that I do is to use the next size up contact tip. If I'm welding with .030 wire, I'll use a .035 tip. There's less chance of an "issue" occuring, and it really doesn't matter, as far as the welding goes. It's just more forgiving.

I can bore people silly with this stuff, so I'll quit, now.

Rich
Rich I love ya brother. Very well said!

A couple more things are stick out (how far Clay holds from his work) and direction.
A shorter stick out will increase amperage, but will shorten the life of tips and nozzles. A longer stick out will lower amperage, but will increase spatter and the likelihood of porosity.

Direction is a subject of debate and someone who is schooled more than I (Rich) could chime in on that. I know if you are "pushing" too much you will blow your shielding gas away from your weld puddle letting porosity occur.

Also check your O-rings at the machine end of the welding lead.

Jeff

Jeff

Our Jeep Links

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jcal73 is offline  
post #3036 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 10:19 AM
sertshark
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: oakdale
Posts: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
As far as I can tell, your mig machine appears to be set up correctly. To double check the polarity setting, you want the lead connections ( just below the drive rollers), to match up with the center (top) picture of the diagram.

Your gas is set at about 27 cfh, which should be fine. You may be able to get away with less, to save a few bucks.

A good way to check your drive roll tension (set by the spring loaded black knob), is to pull the gun's trigger, and shoot the wire into your opposite palm (WEAR WELDING GLOVES!!!!). If the wire stops when it hits your palm, but the drive rollers keep spinning trying to feed the wire, the wire tension needs to be increased. Increase it until the wire keeps feeding into your palm. Obviously, it will ball up and go every which-way, but that's what you want. To conserve gas, turn it off while doing this, just remember to turn it back on before welding!

If it's too tight, that's not good, either. It can actually cause premature wear of the drive roll system, and sometimes, deform (flatten) the wire as it comes out.

.062 solid wire is HUGE for what we do. That's used in real industrial applications for "spray" welding. For what you weld, either .030, or .035, is fine. Like Jim said, he uses .035 for everything....and you CAN. But I don't think that you'd ever regret buying .030. It's a lot nicer on thinner stuff, and will be fine for whatever thick stuff that you'll weld. I've welded 3/4" thick stuff with .030 wire....just turn the wire feed speed up. The cost of .035 is cheaper, though...

And, from what I've read and heard, there IS a difference in weld wire, as far as maunfacturers go. I've never had an issue, because I only buy quality mig wire (ESAB) from my welding supplier. If you but a lower quality wire (unknowingly, for most guys) YMMV. This may not be an issue with general fabrication and repair work, but I can't take that chance.

Another thing that I do is to use the next size up contact tip. If I'm welding with .030 wire, I'll use a .035 tip. There's less chance of an "issue" occuring, and it really doesn't matter, as far as the welding goes. It's just more forgiving.

I can bore people silly with this stuff, so I'll quit, now.

Rich
Great post. I am getting ready to purchase a welder, and I will be saving this info.

Year/Model: '86 CJ7 - Engine: 258 I-6 - Lift: Pro Comp 4" - Tires: 33X12.5 - Nuttered - Team Rush'd - Howell TBI
sertshark is offline  
post #3037 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 11:38 AM
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Beach City
Posts: 6,028
Wow, Rich just answered one of my questions I've had just come up lately - I ran out of .030 tips, then realized I was running .035 wire, which I didn't have any tips for, but I had .040 tips, so I used that. Worked fine - better than the .030 tips!

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Cutlass327 is offline  
post #3038 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 01:52 PM
rixcj
Web Wheeler
 
rixcj's Avatar
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Saunderstown
Posts: 2,359
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Wow, Rich just answered one of my questions I've had just come up lately - I ran out of .030 tips, then realized I was running .035 wire, which I didn't have any tips for, but I had .040 tips, so I used that. Worked fine - better than the .030 tips!
See! There ya go! All the wire has to do is make sliding contact with the tip as it's coming out.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
rixcj is offline  
post #3039 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs
Posts: 9,845
Hey Guys... THANKS!! I appreciate the feedback.

Clay is finishing the rollcage now. He has ground down his welds and is hitting it again. He just put on a new spool of .030 wire, solid core. He is using an .035 tip because he didn't have any .030 (even though I told him to pick up a pack!), and as Rich said, it only needs to make sliding contact with the wire. I turned his gas down to 22, got the welder adjusted per the chart, and he's rockin and rollin! I THINK he felt like a Master Welder, since he is taking welding, and reading the instructions was below him!! I miced the tubing and it is between 10 and 12 gauge. So we set the machine, and it is purring! MUCH better...

It was I that tacked a lot of it together while in the tub, and when we removed it from the tub we had to force it out. Parts fell off of it!! So we put it all back in the tub, and he has it so things WON'T fall off of it this time. We are now ready to remove the cage, and let him go to town on it. I will begin the body prep prior to painting. Ain't no way it's going to be done by May 5. No way...

I put together a couple of Powerpoints for his graduation. One of them is your typical "sweet" one where you see him growing up, but the other one is ALL Jeep! It's a surprise. I think when he sees how much effort and time he has put into this project over these three years he will be touched and truly amazed. The music that accompanies it is Alan Jackson- Drive.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
Skerr is offline  
post #3040 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs
Posts: 9,845
BTW- He was using .035 wire, not .062. My bad. But he couldn't make it go. I think there is definitely a wire quality issue. And Rich, I will check the other points you made.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
Skerr is offline  
post #3041 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 04:20 PM
lucdog
Web Wheeler
 
lucdog's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,771
Glad you have things under control!

I'd like to see the PowerPoint, both of them.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
lucdog is offline  
post #3042 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs
Posts: 9,845
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Glad you have things under control!

I'd like to see the PowerPoint, both of them.

Bill
It would be an honor! How do I do it?

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
Skerr is offline  
post #3043 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs
Posts: 9,845
Oh yeah... I'm full of comments/questions today! Regarding paint. It has been several months since I sprayed it with high-build primer. Since then it has gotten dirty, smudged, banged, nicked, welded on, thunked, clunked, pushed, slightly greasy (dirty hands), etc. Do I just start sanding on it, or do I have to wash it with degreaser first? I need to hit it again with primer before the finish coat... Mil-Spec Desert Sand.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
Skerr is offline  
post #3044 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 05:06 PM
Gido
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 272
Not an expert in much of anything but, I would say definitely clean it good before sanding otherwise you will be permanently grinding grease and dirt into the glass.

"At first you don't succeed, get a bigger Hammer!"

in memory of Jimmy Smith - a wise man
Gido is offline  
post #3045 of 5466 Old 04-22-2012, 06:00 PM
gmakra
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 3,549
Skipper you want to get rid of any conamination before you proceed.
1 wash the tub like you wash a car.
2. Wipe down with wax and grease remover.
3. Fix your boo boos
4, Wipe down with wax and grease remover prior to primer and paint.

Make a note to your self "KEEP YER DIRTY PEACH PICKING HANDS OFF THE TUB" Had to say that since you live so close to Georgia cleanliness is importsant.
gmakra is offline  
Reply

Tags
1979 , cj5 , fiberglass , rollcage , tailgate

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
19?? CJ7 build thread biker250 Jeep CJ Forum 96 12-27-2010 06:10 AM
Looking for a CJ Build Thread. jsc7002 Jeep CJ Forum 6 08-22-2009 10:47 AM
High 5 Build Thread... 1Rustycj5 Jeep CJ Forum 7 03-22-2009 09:28 PM
Build Thread for my '84 CJ erik5387 Jeep CJ Forum 19 05-29-2008 01:05 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome