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post #3016 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 06:33 AM
lucdog
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No incident on the wheel George. IIRC there was a crack there when I gave it to Scott. I remember it looking like the first picture where the wheel is lying with the plastic faceing up. I don't know how it got so big,

Welding with flux core wire and gas ( just co2) is called dual shield. I used this when working a Caterpillar, ( it was on D9 track roller frames, the wire was 3/32").From a short google search dual shield wire is a different makeup than the intershield wire , you probably have. So check on what what wire you have.

I don't understand this 45 PSI, I run my welder with 13 psi on the regulator, with solid wire.

Like said earlier check polarity, the wires should be right by the wire feed motor.

Bill

On edit, the intershield wire should not have a lot of spatter. And the spatter it does have should be very fine , like pinpoint size.


1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #3017 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 06:57 AM
lucdog
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Make sure the gas bottle is turned on all the way. I always turn mine off also, when done welding.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #3018 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 08:57 AM
VACJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
I don't understand this 45 PSI, I run my welder with 13 psi on the regulator, with solid wire.
x2. My Hobart recommends ~ 21 PSI.

'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
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post #3019 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmakra View Post
Skipper there sounds like there maybe two problems with Clays welder first there should be some taps in the machine to change wire polarity. Solid wire runs electrode straight polairity and flux core is DCRP. Either will give you fits if its set on the wrong taps. Next look at the gas line cause there is some problem there kinked or cracked or parialy plugged.

For this work I prefer solid wire and on a scale of 1-10 pipe welding small pipe is about a 30 so dont let it get you down.

I see your working on the steering wheel, IRRC that there was some incident between you and Bill about this?
Thanks Professor... I will check the welder against those points. Clay's welder has no taps. It is a variable model.

Yeah... that sorry dog Bill. He made me go to Illinois for that steering wheel. I had to bang on his door, over and over, screaming, "YOU COME OUT OF THERE!" But he wouldn't come out! Figured he was hiding under the bed. His Grandson snuck up behind me and clunked me in the shin with 1/2" extension, then created a diaper bomb. I couldn't figure out why I was being treated this way, but it became apparent after the Missouri cops let me go. I got lost somewhere after I turned of I-10... But it's all good...

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #3020 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 10:04 AM
Jim1611
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Your shocks are on upside down Scott.

I know that Clay can weld. The problems he's having are with equipment for some reason. That welder he bought should work right too. Like George said you may need to change the way the leads are attached. That definately makes a difference. I also think Clay either needs to weld with gas of flux, not both at the same time. I use .035 wire on mine for everything, even sheet metal. I use the 75% argon & 25% carbondioxide. The porsity thing could be the pressure on the gas. If you're welding outside with any wind blowing it can really cause the gas to not do it's job. You can turn the pressure up to help but it's better to get it inside and leave the pressure as low as you can get by with, saves gas. Another thing that will wreak havoc on good welds is wire that has moisture problems. The obvious is rust on the wire but I've even heard that it can cause trouble even though it's not rusted. You do have allot of humidity.

Scott if all else fails Clay bought a new welder, right. I'd get in touch with the Lincoln tech dept. and see what help they can be. You all are just having way too much trouble with this thing to be something wrong with Clay's skills. I'm sure once the problem is fixed his welds will be fine. There is a reason he's having problems and it is in that welder somewhere. I bought mine new and it wouldn't weld worth a dime. No matter what I did it just did not work right. I called the place I bought it and the next day a tech guy showed up with a new lead. It welded perfect then. Problem was the wire was not feeding smooth and my welds looked terrible. That lead is extremely important. Don't walk on it, drop anything on it and never use it with a kink or even a tight bend in it because the wire will not feed right. If that happens weld quality goes down hill fast. Another thing that needs adjusted right is the tension wheels that feed the wire and they need to be made for the size wire you're using. Check it all out and make double sure everything is right, go by the book supplied with the welder. Yes read the instructions.
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post #3021 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 10:59 AM
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If he doesn't have external taps, it is probably like mine where you open the side where the wire is and you will see the connections for the ground cable and the feed line. That's where you reverse the polarity, just switch the connections.

If all else fails, have Clay take it in to the school and have the instructor check it over. Then he could use it there for the day, and compare the welds from the school's shop environment to your home shop's environment. That would take out some of the variables to help narrow down those nice welds at school compared to the ones at home - same conditions, same materials, different equipment.

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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post #3022 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 12:48 PM
lucdog
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Good post Jim! Since Paul didn't do a picture I will. Mine is set for solid wire .

Bill

image-4131830691.jpg

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #3023 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 12:59 PM
gmakra
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Skipper see the pic above those are the taps I was talking about the one with the + and - move those around and see hwo she welds.

Now if you have a higher class of machine, such as I have its painted blue and says Miller on it the taps will be same area.
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post #3024 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Your shocks are on upside down Scott.

I know that Clay can weld. The problems he's having are with equipment for some reason. That welder he bought should work right too. Like George said you may need to change the way the leads are attached. That definately makes a difference. I also think Clay either needs to weld with gas of flux, not both at the same time. I use .035 wire on mine for everything, even sheet metal. I use the 75% argon & 25% carbondioxide. The porsity thing could be the pressure on the gas. If you're welding outside with any wind blowing it can really cause the gas to not do it's job. You can turn the pressure up to help but it's better to get it inside and leave the pressure as low as you can get by with, saves gas. Another thing that will wreak havoc on good welds is wire that has moisture problems. The obvious is rust on the wire but I've even heard that it can cause trouble even though it's not rusted. You do have allot of humidity.

Scott if all else fails Clay bought a new welder, right. I'd get in touch with the Lincoln tech dept. and see what help they can be. You all are just having way too much trouble with this thing to be something wrong with Clay's skills. I'm sure once the problem is fixed his welds will be fine. There is a reason he's having problems and it is in that welder somewhere. I bought mine new and it wouldn't weld worth a dime. No matter what I did it just did not work right. I called the place I bought it and the next day a tech guy showed up with a new lead. It welded perfect then. Problem was the wire was not feeding smooth and my welds looked terrible. That lead is extremely important. Don't walk on it, drop anything on it and never use it with a kink or even a tight bend in it because the wire will not feed right. If that happens weld quality goes down hill fast. Another thing that needs adjusted right is the tension wheels that feed the wire and they need to be made for the size wire you're using. Check it all out and make double sure everything is right, go by the book supplied with the welder. Yes read the instructions.
Definitely welding inside the shop. Wind is not an issue. However, the wire develops pitting fairly quickly once it is removed from the package. Clay strips a lot of wire from the spool before he is satisfied. Another reason to kick myself for not enclosing my shop when I built it! The Tech Dept is a resurce I constantly overlook! Thanks for reminding me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
If he doesn't have external taps, it is probably like mine where you open the side where the wire is and you will see the connections for the ground cable and the feed line. That's where you reverse the polarity, just switch the connections.

If all else fails, have Clay take it in to the school and have the instructor check it over. Then he could use it there for the day, and compare the welds from the school's shop environment to your home shop's environment. That would take out some of the variables to help narrow down those nice welds at school compared to the ones at home - same conditions, same materials, different equipment.
He does have external taps... I just thought George was talking about preset heat settings. You know you have to try and guess what George is talking about!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Good post Jim! Since Paul didn't do a picture I will. Mine is set for solid wire .

Bill

Attachment 384371
You ain't gonna say anything about the "Steering Wheel Incident"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmakra View Post
Skipper see the pic above those are the taps I was talking about the one with the + and - move those around and see hwo she welds.

Now if you have a higher class of machine, such as I have its painted blue and says Miller on it the taps will be same area.
Roger... Wil-co. We looked at Miller machines, and blue is my favorite color too. But they all say "auto-set", and we figgered anybody could weld with one of those. We wanted to learn!
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Kerrdog
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post #3025 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Eye Candy! Done, except for some glaze inside the tub. Hit the inside with a can of sandable primer. Underside brushed with the Valspar implement paint, as was used on the rest of the frame and undercarriage. Time to move on...

If I could just get that son of mine to....
Attached Thumbnails
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Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #3026 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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My wife has TWO ride-on vacuum cleaners (my version of a self-propelled vacuum). She has broken both of them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #3027 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 01:50 PM
lucdog
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I did say something about the wheel. You must have still been in bed, it was about 10:30 am your time

On your latest pictures, I'm reading something I don't see on my Lincoln 12.5 lb.spool. Right under the barcode.

No where on the box or spool does it say, made in China. Where is the flux core made? Check the wire in your welder, maybe swap it to Clays.

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #3028 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 01:53 PM
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr
My wife has TWO ride-on vacuum cleaners (my version of a self-propelled vacuum). She has broken both of them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Must be all that hair.

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #3029 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 01:57 PM
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On your latest pictures, I'm reading something I don't see on my Lincoln 12.5 lb.spool. Right under the barcode.
Sorry Scott, but that made me laugh!

I have been using Lincoln SuperArc L-56 ER70S-6 and it was worked out very well.

'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
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post #3030 of 5422 Old 04-20-2012, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Must be all that hair.
Wow! Now I'M in trouble. She saw what I posted. You have room in your doghouse Bill??

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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