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post #286 of 5422 Old 08-23-2010, 11:35 PM
FamillyCJ7
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What year CJ5 do you need for interchangeable parts? There are several on craigslist from early 60's to late 70's.


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post #287 of 5422 Old 08-24-2010, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamillyCJ7 View Post
What year CJ5 do you need for interchangeable parts? There are several on craigslist from early 60's to late 70's.
I don't need one for parts... I was looking to get another frame because I thought mine was toast, but since it was straightened we're good.

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post #288 of 5422 Old 08-24-2010, 11:45 AM
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Things are looking up! You guys are gettingn things done now. The motor and tranny and transfer case look great.


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post #289 of 5422 Old 08-24-2010, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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More progress today! Wow... I keep waiting for the bolt of lightning! Things are going pretty good for a change. We got the tranny xmember installed this afternoon. It didn't want to go on, though. I guess since the diamond shape was pulled out of the frame the pan was still slightly wracked. It wasn't a big deal, however, and Clay got it fixed in good time. So, following are pics of Clay working on his renewed love!

First one is Clay wallowing out a bolt hole with the Dremel.

2nd is pretty much the same thing, but DANG it looks good! And Clay bought a new socket set for himself... that means he's excited!

The next two are pics of Clay off in dream world! I just happened to catch him trying it out wearing a big smile!
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_3382_1.JPG   IMG_3381_1.JPG   IMG_3387_1.JPG   IMG_3389_1.JPG  

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!

Last edited by Skerr; 08-24-2010 at 08:17 PM.
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post #290 of 5422 Old 08-24-2010, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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With the engine off the floor we gained a lot of space. I moved the hoist and cleaned up a lot and generally organized the shop... as much as I could to this point. I got my chains hung up and Clay put together a nifty little grinder/vise stand. It is built on a dumptruck rim using a section of bushhog drive shaft for the stand. It works better than the little one I had before.


Looking at the pic with the knuckle... how tight do I need to make those bolts? And should I replace bushings while I can get to them?

Thanks.
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IMG_3383_1.JPG   IMG_3384_1.JPG   IMG_3385_1.JPG   IMG_3386_1.JPG  

Kerrdog
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post #291 of 5422 Old 08-24-2010, 08:24 PM
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How many disc sanders do you have in there?

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #292 of 5422 Old 08-24-2010, 09:44 PM
FamillyCJ7
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You guys are making great progress! Makes me jealous. I got my Chassis Saver in today and most of the frame has been stripped and it looks great. I'm pretty sure I got the air compressor rebuilt and working properly now, I forgot to order the bottom O-ring for the Valve plate assembly so I did a hack fix and used some blue RTV sealant that's made for holding pressure. It should be fully cured tomorrow and I'll switch her on and see if it worked, if not I'll shell out the $30 for the O-ring. If it work's I'll be spraying the frame, leaf springs, brackets, axles and other misc stuff with the Chassis Saver even though I could just brush it on.

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post #293 of 5422 Old 08-25-2010, 07:32 AM
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Looking good. I like the colors of the drivetrain and the red fan . Are you going to keep working on the chassis or take a break from it and work on the body?

86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.

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A ton more pics here.

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post #294 of 5422 Old 08-25-2010, 08:01 AM
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Scott I assume when you ask about how tight to make the bolts you're talking about the upper and lower ball joints?

From what I found the other day the bottom ball joint nut is 80 ft/lbs. The top nut and tapered ball joint sleeve should be 50 ft/lbs. Now would be a very good time to replace them if you think you need to. Get the Moog brand joints as they will last longer. Don't make the mistake I did on the bottom ball joint nut either. I decided after getting it torqued down that they needed anti-sieze so I started to back it off. Big mistake because in doing so the nut galled on the threads and ruined the joint, had to buy another. Those nuts are made with indentations in the top of them to act as a lock nut.

You guys have things looking great. I'm glad to see Clay back at it. Just wait till it's done and he's driving it. That'll really make him smile!!


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post #295 of 5422 Old 08-25-2010, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
How many disc sanders do you have in there?
Just two... one for a table top, and one floor-type.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FamillyCJ7 View Post
You guys are making great progress! Makes me jealous. I got my Chassis Saver in today and most of the frame has been stripped and it looks great. I'm pretty sure I got the air compressor rebuilt and working properly now, I forgot to order the bottom O-ring for the Valve plate assembly so I did a hack fix and used some blue RTV sealant that's made for holding pressure. It should be fully cured tomorrow and I'll switch her on and see if it worked, if not I'll shell out the $30 for the O-ring. If it work's I'll be spraying the frame, leaf springs, brackets, axles and other misc stuff with the Chassis Saver even though I could just brush it on.
Good luck on the compressor. I'm lookng forward to seeing your frame repair pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Looking good. I like the colors of the drivetrain and the red fan . Are you going to keep working on the chassis or take a break from it and work on the body?
We're going to go as far as we can on the frame. We still have the steering box, front shocks, calipers, brake lines, etc to do. I have to track down a gas tank and hardware too. Once we get hung up on the frame we'll start on the hood. Clay wants to do his own painting so I figure the hood is a great starting point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Scott I assume when you ask about how tight to make the bolts you're talking about the upper and lower ball joints?

From what I found the other day the bottom ball joint nut is 80 ft/lbs. The top nut and tapered ball joint sleeve should be 50 ft/lbs. Now would be a very good time to replace them if you think you need to. Get the Moog brand joints as they will last longer. Don't make the mistake I did on the bottom ball joint nut either. I decided after getting it torqued down that they needed anti-sieze so I started to back it off. Big mistake because in doing so the nut galled on the threads and ruined the joint, had to buy another. Those nuts are made with indentations in the top of them to act as a lock nut.

You guys have things looking great. I'm glad to see Clay back at it. Just wait till it's done and he's driving it. That'll really make him smile!!
Yes... the ball joints. I will probably go with a cheaper brand. Although it will be Clay's DD, he won't DDing everyday, so a less expensive brand should suffice for quite awhile.


Got the rear shocks mounted up today, which was no big deal. It was so hot that I didn't want to do anything outside. We also had a crowd of people over today for a 4-H party... Clay ate too much sa-weet stuff and got a tummy ache, so he didn't feel like doing anything either! Another day burns down...

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #296 of 5422 Old 08-25-2010, 08:04 PM
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I almost got the cheaper ball joints too Scott. The way things are made today it's hard to know whether to spend the extra money thinking you're getting better stuff or go less expensive. One thing I do know, from experience, is that a new driver is hard on anything you put them in. I do well remember those days.


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post #297 of 5422 Old 08-25-2010, 08:27 PM
243
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I used a cheaper brand and when the knuckles went back together the last time they were rotating on Moog balljoints.

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post #298 of 5422 Old 08-25-2010, 09:45 PM
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Try these, or at least check them out. I just picked some up for that D44 build i was working on.
XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Canada and Unites States
they are only about $20 each, call the place direct for ordering, as you will not find them locally.
Looking good though!
Now if I could ever get all the parts together for this D44, I might get to start on that rear 9",
and have a rolling chassis like SUPER CLAY does!!!!
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post #299 of 5422 Old 08-25-2010, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
I used a cheaper brand and when the knuckles went back together the last time they were rotating on Moog balljoints.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
I almost got the cheaper ball joints too Scott. The way things are made today it's hard to know whether to spend the extra money thinking you're getting better stuff or go less expensive. One thing I do know, from experience, is that a new driver is hard on anything you put them in. I do well remember those days.
Jim and Dave... you guys have like minds! I checked out the Moog joints. They certainly SOUND better in the description.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbc View Post
Try these, or at least check them out. I just picked some up for that D44 build i was working on.
XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Canada and Unites States
they are only about $20 each, call the place direct for ordering, as you will not find them locally.
Looking good though!
Now if I could ever get all the parts together for this D44, I might get to start on that rear 9",
and have a rolling chassis like SUPER CLAY does!!!!
Thanks for the link. I'll give them a look. I'm looking forward to your rolling chassis... your work is top-notch!

Checked out the link.... XRF sounds awesome! Thanks...

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #300 of 5422 Old 08-27-2010, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Comments and Questions

I discovered my Raccoon! My 18 YO thought he'd play a gag on me. He said my shop is always so messy he didn't think I would notice if I was missing tools! So he grabbed a few sockets and hid them. I ended up buying a new 1/2" deep well because I needed it. By the time this was all discovered he had forgotten what he had done, and the joke went longer than planned. I didn't get angry, but he reimbursed me for the socket. You wanna make a teenager feel remorse?? Hit them in the pocket!

After installing the torque arm (thanks to all you guys who posted questions about torque arms over the last few months) I discovered that when I let the tranny down onto the pan, it [tranny] was sitting on top of the torque arm bolt head. I can't see anyway to move it around so that it doesn't hit. I could maybe shave off part of the transmission housing but I don't like that idea. Anybody have any suggestions?? I assume the bend at the end of the torque arm is factory... is it designed that way to clear the transmission? Maybe I need to bend it more??

I have to remove the factory shock mounts from the D30 axle. They are in the way of the stock mounts on the spring plates. I will carefully cut them off with a wheel. Is this a part that anybody might need? If not, I'm going to toss them.

Finally, I need the "hold downs" for the U-Joint/Yoke for the 20 rearend. I thought it used the U-Bolt style, but it doesn't... it uses the thru-bolt, hold down style. Does anyone have any laying around or a "best" place to get them?

Thanks

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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