Clay's Build Thread - Page 114 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1696 of 5422 Old 09-29-2011, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Cube steak and ground venison...

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Kerrdog
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post #1697 of 5422 Old 09-29-2011, 05:41 PM
243
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Nice

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #1698 of 5422 Old 09-29-2011, 07:31 PM
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^^^ What he said!

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1699 of 5422 Old 09-29-2011, 07:41 PM
Jim1611
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Man that's a great time to have all of that help!! Scott does your back hurt after doing that? Killed mine till I raised my table up now it aint so bad.
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post #1700 of 5422 Old 09-29-2011, 09:14 PM
bbc
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Nice! I will be doing the same thing on Saturday!
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post #1701 of 5422 Old 09-30-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Man that's a great time to have all of that help!! Scott does your back hurt after doing that? Killed mine till I raised my table up now it aint so bad.
Naw... my back didn't hurt. I was just posing! I sat in the swing most of the time and cracked the whip!!

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Nice! I will be doing the same thing on Saturday!
I'll bet your deer are slightly bigger than ours.

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #1702 of 5422 Old 10-01-2011, 04:06 AM
langstonjones
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Now that the family has "settled down", me and Clay got a little worky done! We were going to paint his C20. He had applied rust converter to it some weeks ago and stored it in the shop. But when we got it out to wash it we saw that the pinion seal had been leaking. So I ordered a new one. He degreased the axle again and discovered that he never finished the rust converter the first time... oy veh! So here is Clay at his finest, when he is working on the Jeep. I've included some pics and I have a question..

When installing a pinion seal, is it as easy as removing the nut, sliding everything off/out, pick out the old seal, and pop in the new one? I'll be doing the same thing for the D30 later.


Thanks, ALL
Hey Scott, Just picked up on yours and Clay's build today. LOOKS GREAT so far (I know, I'm way behind). What is this "rust converter"? Is it naval jelly? Thanks...David

EDIT: guess I should've googled before asking the stupid question. I got it thanks anyway.
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post #1703 of 5422 Old 10-01-2011, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by langstonjones View Post
Hey Scott, Just picked up on yours and Clay's build today. LOOKS GREAT so far (I know, I'm way behind). What is this "rust converter"? Is it naval jelly? Thanks...David

EDIT: guess I should've googled before asking the stupid question. I got it thanks anyway.
No such thing as a stupid question, David! I appreciate you checking out the thread. The rust converter we used (same stuff we were painting the tranny with earlier in the thread) is made by Rustoleum and is available at WalMart.

There have been comments about painting over rust converters in general, and some paints may not be compatible. So I would recommend contacting tech support and asking them if you have that in mind. That being said, I used Valspar Implement paint (satin black) over the rust converter with no issues.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #1704 of 5422 Old 10-01-2011, 06:45 PM
FLynes
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Scott, did you see the post on the Permatex brand rust converter by JH? Seems like good stuff too.

Fred
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post #1705 of 5422 Old 10-01-2011, 07:08 PM
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Getting back to the topic, from what I hear the Permatex rust converter works well.

Disclaimer: I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH IT WHATSOEVER, so I can't recommend it.

Fred
Retired Army Guy

High Plains Drifter
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Lime Green
Black Wellington Vinyl Bench Seats
258 I-6 1bbl
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post #1706 of 5422 Old 10-01-2011, 07:12 PM
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vacj7

come on man.... Why did you bring this into clay's thread? No reason for that here.
x2

Not cool

Under A Sun Thats See It All Before...
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post #1707 of 5422 Old 10-02-2011, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
No such thing as a stupid question, David! I appreciate you checking out the thread. The rust converter we used (same stuff we were painting the tranny with earlier in the thread) is made by Rustoleum and is available at WalMart.

There have been comments about painting over rust converters in general, and some paints may not be compatible. So I would recommend contacting tech support and asking them if you have that in mind. That being said, I used Valspar Implement paint (satin black) over the rust converter with no issues.
Thanks for the follow up because when I googled "rust converter", it brought up some pretty expensive products that I know I couldn't run out and buy. After all I have much more elbow grease than money, but if Rustoleum makes a product it should be feasible. Also the Valspar is Lowe's brand isn't it? Do they carry the implement paint?

Sidenote: I sure hope the riff raff that had their comments deleted didn't follow me in. I thought I closed the door behind me but I will double check from now on. I didn't see the comments. Did I wake up the haters that you mentioned in your reply?
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post #1708 of 5422 Old 10-02-2011, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLynes View Post
Scott, did you see the post on the Permatex brand rust converter by JH? Seems like good stuff too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLynes View Post
Getting back to the topic, from what I hear the Permatex rust converter works well.

Disclaimer: I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH IT WHATSOEVER, so I can't recommend it.
Ironically, I read it just this morning! It looks like the identical stuff to the Rustoleum brand, which looks identical to the Gempler's brand, etc! Same appearance, foam, coating, action, etc. As Jeephammer did, I too used it on rusty wheels (Clay's). Without ever having covered the rust converter with a topcoat, leaving only the rust coverter as the final coat, after 2+ years it has not rusted again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by langstonjones View Post
Thanks for the follow up because when I googled "rust converter", it brought up some pretty expensive products that I know I couldn't run out and buy. After all I have much more elbow grease than money, but if Rustoleum makes a product it should be feasible. Also the Valspar is Lowe's brand isn't it? Do they carry the implement paint?

Sidenote: I sure hope the riff raff that had their comments deleted didn't follow me in. I thought I closed the door behind me but I will double check from now on. I didn't see the comments. Did I wake up the haters that you mentioned in your reply?
If you read the whole thread you would see all of the stuff I have used and the mistakes I have made. MOST of the rust converter I have used is plain old Ospho, which is Phosphoric Acid... $14/Gallon at True Value. It leaves a white scale when dry which you have to remove before painting. The Gempler's brand and Rustoleum brand work well. They leave rusty steel black, which gives a psychological satisfaction (becasue you can SEE the change!). For peace of mind, it doesn't really matter what you pay... you MUST be happy with the result, regardless what anybody else says.

Don't get lost on Riffraff! We are ALL riffraff from time to time... I'm no exception. We'd never learn a thing if we didn't have the diverse personalities and characters of the JF community.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #1709 of 5422 Old 10-02-2011, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Officially, the tranny crossmember is bolted back up! YAY!! I don't know if it is the same for all of you, but it is diifficult to bolt the tranny back to the crossmember... the two bolts that go up from the bottom. With Clay on the creeper, and me using my superior muscles of steel from above , we scooched the engine/tranny back enough to get those two stubborn bolts in. Soooo, officially, ALL OF IT is back in place since repairing the frame nuts. The tranny is officially lowered, the driveline looks officially "good enough" to me, and the tub is officially ready to go back on the frame....









... once we find the missing tub bushing.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #1710 of 5422 Old 10-02-2011, 03:07 PM
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Whew! great work that is a ton of stuffg bet you are relieved!

Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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