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Unread 08-22-2014, 01:45 PM   #1
margotta78
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CJ7 Won't Start

Ok I read through a bunch of threads but nothing exactly like my problem. I was out the other day driving around. Stopped to get gas. Went to start it back up and nothing. Had 12 volts on the gauge. Keep trying and it started. Since then I put on a new starter, solenoid, water pump, ect. The water pump was just because it was one of the last things I have not replaced on this thing. It has a brand new alternator and battery. When I try to start it I get nothing. I can see it has plenty of volts. The ignition module is not that old. The coil is about three years old. I dont mind working on them but just need a little direction.

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Unread 08-22-2014, 01:55 PM   #2
kirkhurst
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When you say "nothing" i'm assuming the starter is not turning over correct? If so, can you hear the solenoid clicking, if so check the connection at the starter and make sure you have a good ground on the starter housing. If not, check and see if you are getting the switched 12VDC at the solenoid when you turn the key to the start position. If it's there, check the solenoid for proper ground, if it's not, check fuses and ignition switch on the steering column. Hope this helps...
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Unread 08-22-2014, 02:22 PM   #3
Mike Romain
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I would be cleaning all the ends of all the main battery cables. A punky connection can act like that. The neg at the engine block is a sneaky one for that.
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Unread 08-22-2014, 03:25 PM   #4
LumpyGrits
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If it doesn't crank-Battery is DOA.
Volts don't mean much-It's the AMPS that turn the motor.
12 vdc is a dead battery-You should be see'n 12.5 at least.
Have that new alt load tested for AMPS--
LG
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Unread 08-22-2014, 09:14 PM   #5
BagusJeep
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Not turning over i.e. no starter action.

The starter is a fairly simple beast. It needs 12V coursing round the curcuit but with enough current to spin the engine, it is the most hungry device in the CJ. Check for voltage at the solenoid as follows:

Incoming large red wire: All the time
Light blue wire on the S tab: Only in Start
Outgoing large red wire to starte: Only in Start
Casing grounded to the fender
If you have a ground tab (designed to be routed to an automatic's Neutral Safety Switch) make sure it is grounded or you will get nothing.

If it still does not spin you may have a failed set of battery leads. they corrode internally and do not carry current.

To rule out the solenoid take a booster / jumper cable and connect the battery briefly to the starter cable. If it kicks over look again at the solenoid wiring.
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Unread 08-23-2014, 07:59 AM   #6
margotta78
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Thanks to everyone for the tips. When I said nothing it didnt even try to start. Not sure about the clicking of the solenoid. I will try to listen for it today. First thing I am going to do is try to jump the jeep off. Maybe the battery is just weak from sitting while worked on it(about two weeks due to work schedule). I have a voltage meter so that will be next. I think before I try to start it I will take my wires back off and clean the crap out of them all. Some are brand new so they should be good. I hope it is not the ignition switch! Never done that before. I bought the lifetime Ignition Module last time. So if I have to I can take that one back and swap it. I think its most likely a wire. Thanks again. I am headed out right now to start messing with it.
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Unread 08-23-2014, 10:05 AM   #7
LumpyGrits
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Try a known, good battery.
Chg the dead one.
Have that alt ck'd for AMP output.
Either the battery won't hold a chg or the alt is not chg'n the battery.
LG
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Unread 08-24-2014, 11:47 AM   #8
margotta78
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Ok I cleaned the cables really good with sand paper. All shinny. Still nothing. I dont hear a click at the soleniod when my wife tries to start the jeep. Also I tried to jump it off and it was still dead. So is the issue in the steering column? Or could it be the ignition module? Has to be something electrial. Only problem is I have hardly any experience with that. I did try to do a continuity test of the soleniod. It ran a 33.06 at the 200 ohms setting. The battery cables are brand new. But all the wires from the soleniod are old. That includes from the steering column to the solenoi and coil. And where do you ground the starter on the housing? Its not grounded right now. It just goes straight to the soleniod. My negative terminal on my battery is grounded on the engine block.
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Unread 08-24-2014, 12:13 PM   #9
margotta78
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Ok just got in from trying to test the solenoid for continuity. With the key in the on position I get a good beep on the meter from the top two posts. Which means (i think) that the soleniod is doing its job. There is also a post on the bottom that has no threads. Not sure what it is for. I am thinking about trading the ignition module in for a new one. Its only about a year old. Since its a plug in piece that would be easy to try. I remember changing an ignition switch on the column a long time ago. Any other direction?
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Unread 08-24-2014, 01:01 PM   #10
Mike Romain
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Hold on now... Bottom terminal on a solenoid is for an automatic and that post has to be grounded to work.

You check the blue wire on the S terminal (side post) on the solenoid for 12 volts when the key is in start. This verifies the key switch circuit. There is an ign lps fuse on this circuit too.
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Unread 08-24-2014, 03:44 PM   #11
margotta78
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Ok the terminal on the bottom of the solenoid has no threads. So how do I put a ground on that. Its looks sort of like a nipple on a baby bottle. Or a trailor ball. So can i just ground that to the engine block also? I am going out right now to try to verify 12volts on the blue wire.
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Unread 08-24-2014, 04:02 PM   #12
margotta78
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Mike I went back out and put the key in the on position. I put one lead to the red battery side of the solenoid and the other to the blue wire on the small post on top. I got 11.87volts.
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Unread 08-24-2014, 06:55 PM   #13
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by margotta78 View Post
Mike I went back out and put the key in the on position. I put one lead to the red battery side of the solenoid and the other to the blue wire on the small post on top. I got 11.87volts.
Means the key switch circuit is working. I would just put a booster cable or something from the battery neg on that post as a test. If it turns over make a permanent connection or run it to a hidden switch for a safety kill switch. No switch, no start. It only takes thieves seconds to blow out the key switch and if it then won't turn over....
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 08-25-2014, 07:59 AM   #14
margotta78
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Tried jumping the solenoid. That worked fine. With the key in the on position I used a jumper cable from the hot side of the solenoid to the side to the starter. It started to turn over. So does that mean my brand new solenoid is garbage? Taking it back now to swap for a different one. And if these parts are that bad what brand is worth a crap?
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Unread 08-25-2014, 08:25 AM   #15
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by margotta78 View Post
Tried jumping the solenoid. That worked fine. With the key in the on position I used a jumper cable from the hot side of the solenoid to the side to the starter. It started to turn over. So does that mean my brand new solenoid is garbage? Taking it back now to swap for a different one. And if these parts are that bad what brand is worth a crap?
It only means you bought a solenoid for an automatic and you have a standard tranny.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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