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post #1 of 8 Old 12-11-2011, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
David2012
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cj7 wheel bearing

front left wheel on my 85 started grinding yesterday so i took it to firestone tire for a free estimate. Told me it was the wheel bearing. How difficult is it to replace and pack a wheel bearing and can it be bought at discount auto or AZ? thanks.


Electrical gremlins will be the death of me... 85 cj7
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-11-2011, 07:37 PM
gojeepin
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Well, I don't think it's hard but it depends on how mechanically inclined you are.

You will really only need three special tools... 1) the socket for the large nuts on the spindle, 2) a torque wrench, and 3) snap ring pliers.

Here's the exploded hub... ignore the images at the bottom.



Autozone carries the Timken bearings you'll need.

For removing outer bearing races... while you can drive a race out from the opposing side of the hub with a brass drift, I'd recommend you rent the race and seal driver while you're there to drive the new ones in.

Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read the article (sticky) on Steering, suspension, and driveline.
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-11-2011, 08:09 PM
RenoF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gojeepin View Post
For removing outer bearing races... while you can drive a race out from the opposing side of the hub with a brass drift, I'd recommend you rent the race and seal driver while you're there to drive the new ones in.
Are most hard to get in/out? Mine practically fell out. I peened the side a bit to get them to stay in. Had there been evidence they were spinning I would have been more concerned.

The socket is a PITA to find in stores, I had to order one.
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-11-2011, 08:26 PM
gojeepin
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All the hubs I worked on weren't hard to get out but they weren't loose. The old ones needed to be driven out and the new ones driven in.

Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read the article (sticky) on Steering, suspension, and driveline.
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-12-2011, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
David2012
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thank you. I think a friend of mine is going to help me do it. Really dont want to spend the 180 at the mechanic.

Electrical gremlins will be the death of me... 85 cj7
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-12-2011, 01:06 PM
kickingprop
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you can replace wheel bearings and seals provided the hubs are in good shape for under $80 total materials (including new grease) You will want to have the spindle nut socket. Its about $8 from 4wd.com I believe and worth every penny.

You will most definitely need snap ring pliers but this can be done effectively without a tq wrench if you make sure to tighten the first nut until there is noticeable resistance when spinning the rotor then backing it off about 1/6th of a turn. And then similarly with the outer nut. I've been using this method for a while now and never had an issue.

Make sure you replace the bearings and races at the same time. Timkens from AZ are the way to go. If memory serves they are Set 45 and Set 47 for the bearings and the Timken Seal # is 493637. The race/seal drivers you can rent for free are very handy too.

There are a few fantastic writeups on doing the wheel bearings by Ken4444 and Jeephammer to check out (I did a writeup as well but have found theirs to be better illustrated)

Here's the link for mine: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/se...-pics-1037029/
and Ken4444's (starting around post 564): http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ke...0/index10.html

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post #7 of 8 Old 12-12-2011, 01:48 PM
mopar408
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Also replace BOTH inner and outer. The one bearing that hasn't(?) failed has been running in the metal-filled grease from the one that has.

If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-07-2012, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
David2012
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thank you all. Got it fixed and all this helped a ton. And the heads up about the socket being a pita to find was a major help. VERY late response but thanks again

Electrical gremlins will be the death of me... 85 cj7
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