Maybe the power valve in the carb? If it loaded up and backfired it could have blown out the power valve. Not sure if it will cause the same symptoms but it's something that's easy to check and replace before you start tearing the engine apart.
'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.
The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her. :-D
Was it a metal pop or a gas pop?? I had wacky stuff like that going on with mine when I bought it and it turns out a plug wire was bouncing of the exhaust manifold as the motor rocked on its mounts under load, which really screwed the spark up. It wasn't obvious until I looked hard at the wires.
the distribtuor sits on top of the cam, if the gears on the cam look like they have had 'metal binding, deformed or twisted, the gears on the cam will look the same. I red-lined my tach, I was driving down the road when this happened, I was not stationary (got rid of the tach) and it killed the power to the distributor and ground my cam. Ended up replacing the whole distributor as well. If it seems like it wont crank over, metal to metal bindingthat could be the main cap bearing on your crank. you'll know when you take the motor apart b-c , the bearings that hold the pistons in, the bearings if you take them off, will appear shredded. or have deep cuts in their metal surface. and the motor will have a knocking sound, like a trash of metal hitting the block. thats one way to tell without have to take it apart.
|idle issue , motorcraft 2100 , rough idle|
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