Cj7--lost All Electrical - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-29-2009, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
sjconrad97
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Cj7--lost All Electrical

Thanks in advance for any and all help in this.
Ok, here is what I got. I am cruising the other day and my CJ went DEAD. Pulling over to the side of the road, I opened the hood and the positive battery cable leading to the solenoid was burning hot and some of the wires going to the solenoid were hot and smoking. Now I have NO power. No radio, lights, horn-nothing. Obviously, I am looking at starting with the replacement of the solenoid, but why no power at all. Would the solenoid going bad cause a cut of all electrical?

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post #2 of 10 Old 08-29-2009, 01:22 PM
scottymac62
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Sounds like grounding issues. Take a look at this thread.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ba...-cable-558678/

'77 CJ-5 Renegade 304 / T-150, Dana 20, 30/20 axles, Aussie Locker in the Dana 30, American Racing 15x10 Outlaw II's, 33" Dynapro M/T's" ,Optima Battery, TeamRushed + Summit Racing CDI ignition, FlowKooler water pump, Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold, Holley 4160 390cfm, Herculiner, Silver Ceramic Coated Hedman Hedders, Flowmaster 40's.
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post #3 of 10 Old 08-29-2009, 01:24 PM
NytStlker
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Welcome to CJ jeeperhood, home of the Gremlins.

These pretzels ARE MAKING ME THIRSTY!~~


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post #4 of 10 Old 08-29-2009, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
sjconrad97
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One of the two "side" terminals was heavily corroded--any thoughts on that in the scheme of this?
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post #5 of 10 Old 08-29-2009, 04:43 PM
ACAD_Cowboy
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Depending on which side terminal that could be a bad thing. The 'In' terminal which takes the + lead from the battery and possibly the + from your alternator is or should be facing the front of the jeep. The 'Out' terminal carries the + to the starter. If your 'In" terminal is heavily corroded with corrosion between the ring eyes, you will develop a lot of resistence which would cause overheating. The other two terminals are for key on power for cranking and if used to provided a + signal to the coil while cranking. If you have very sketchy grounding you will also run into overheating and lose of electrical.

I would start by reading up on quality cable fabrication

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ma...rectly-691172/

then move on to grounding issues and solutions

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/be...hammer-833631/

The first steps to take after just quickly replacing the solenoid would be to clean up all of your battery connections; hit the terminals with a brush and some warm soapy water -remember your gloves and eye protection- then move to the ring eyes which can always do with some 320 grit sandpaper to bring up a clean copper color -again remember the eyes-. After getting everything all clean and rebuilt with proper grounding where needed, don't forget some form of corrosion protection. That tacky red spray grease does pretty good to keep the furry look to a minimum.

As to why you now have NO power, test the battery for voltage and amperage load, perhaps have the alternator spun tested and from there check the fuses. An overheating cables situation could be the result of a runaway alternator that is overcharging which will cause a battery failure or it may be the other way around with a failing battery demanding the alternator to run above rated loads. Conventional alternators are not designed or intended to run at 100% amp load with a 100% duty cycle without some form or air or liquid cooling and likewise your standard conventional lead acid battery is not designed to be run anywhere near 100%/100% as the heat would boil off the water & cause plate failures. Either one of these in a runaway situation will kill the other.

So welcome to site, enjoy the reading and good luck.
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post #6 of 10 Old 08-29-2009, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
sjconrad97
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ACAD Cowboy and others,
It is actually one of the smaller two terminals that was badly corroded, not the terminal connected the + or the one going to the starter.
I couldn't even get the connection plug off without breakage.
So what happened here? The solenoid is fried and all auxiliary electrical went with it???
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post #7 of 10 Old 08-29-2009, 07:36 PM
scottymac62
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Again.......check your grounds. You can't have current flow if you don't have a complete path back to your battery. You may have had a weak ground to start with that was going to your tub and it eventually gave way.

This same thing happened to me soon after I acquired my CJ a couple years ago. I added dedicated grounds all over the place and it made all of the difference in the world. My CJ actually ran better after adding the grounds.

'77 CJ-5 Renegade 304 / T-150, Dana 20, 30/20 axles, Aussie Locker in the Dana 30, American Racing 15x10 Outlaw II's, 33" Dynapro M/T's" ,Optima Battery, TeamRushed + Summit Racing CDI ignition, FlowKooler water pump, Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold, Holley 4160 390cfm, Herculiner, Silver Ceramic Coated Hedman Hedders, Flowmaster 40's.
Warn PowerPlant HD 12K Winch, Dirtworx front and rear bumpers.
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-31-2009, 07:50 AM
John Strenk
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Sometimes an overheated batery cable is a sign if increased resistance in the cable. Never a good thing. USually a sign of corrosion under the insulation. By the time it overheats the resistance is so high that it over heats more and it finally fails. Loose connections at the solenoid also can over heat killing your connection to the power feed to the fuse box.

I would also check you fusable links in the wires from the fusebox to the solenoid.


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post #9 of 10 Old 08-31-2009, 09:25 AM
thewolff
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Fuse links???
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-31-2009, 01:51 PM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgntdummy99 View Post
Fuse links???
This is a special type of wire usually used were power is fed into some source that would not normally be protected by a fuse just to keep the harness safe. You have on Fuseable link to the fuse box and one to the alternator.

If the current becomes to high then this will disintegrate, melt, break, blow stopping the flow of electricity.


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