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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:00 PM   #1
Samabramson
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Cj7 floor panel help

Over the weekend i just picked up a '76 CJ7 with a 304 v8 and a 3 speed manual. I'm having some issues with the transmission so i have a 4 speed and new transfer case that i'm going to be dropping in. (that seems to be the least of my worries) The distributor needs to be retimed along with a much needed tune-up. However, my biggest issue is my floor pans. Upon further inspection early on sunday morning, i noticed that the passenger seat was wobbling side to side. After peeking under the jeep, i saw that the majority of the floor pan where the seat was mounted (or at least appeared to be) is rusted away. If i replace the floor pan, will this fix my problem? Also will i need to replace any other mounts or support bars of any sort? The exterior of the tub seems to be in fair condition along with the frame and various suspension components. Anyone with prior experience or similar issues would be of great help to me!

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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:08 PM   #2
firemanjim7
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Good looking jeep you got there. And it's got purple power under the hood. 👍

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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:13 PM   #3
Samabramson
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Originally Posted by firemanjim7 View Post
Good looking jeep you got there. And it's got purple power under the hood. 👍

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Thanks Jim,
You'll never believe how much I payed for her...Zero out of pocket. The guy traded me my 2005 polaris 700 for it
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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:22 PM   #4
firemanjim7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samabramson

Thanks Jim,
You'll never believe how much I payed for her...Zero out of pocket. The guy traded me my 2005 polaris 700 for it
And you can drive this one on the highway..... That is legally.

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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:27 PM   #5
Samabramson
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Originally Posted by firemanjim7

And you can drive this one on the highway..... That is legally.

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Well i'm a little scared too at the moment with the floorpan issue... But yes, this one will be street legal (not to say the atv wasn't "legal" in my own mind)
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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:29 PM   #6
Ken4444
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This is where your "free" CJ starts to cost you money

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samabramson View Post
...the majority of the floor pan where the seat was mounted (or at least appeared to be) is rusted away. If i replace the floor pan, will this fix my problem? Also will i need to replace any other mounts or support bars of any sort?
My advice is that you won't know the full extent of the damage until you pull the tub totally off, or start disassembling things (seats, seat belts, console, roll bar, etc) so you can get a good look at the metal in the problem areas. I would bet money that the diamond plate on the sides is there to hide rust.

As far as repair, it depends on how much metal restoration you want to do (or pay for): Some folks will scrap a tub that has major rust in the usual spots, but some folks will take the time to weld new metal into a tub that is full of holes all over the place. If you have to take the route of a replacement tub, there are options from a better CJ tub, a YJ tub, a new or used fiberglass tub, or a new metal tub (not cheap).

As far as repair, you can buy replacement sheet metal panels for the rust-prone areas. There are thin/cheap options and thicker/more expensive options. Or you can buy 16 gauge steel sheet and fabricate your own replacements. Again, people go different routes here.

Please just don't slap in some roofing flashing, bondo, plywood, cardboard, or rivets.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:49 PM   #7
Samabramson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444
This is where your "free" CJ starts to cost you money

My advice is that you won't know the full extent of the damage until you pull the tub totally off, or start disassembling things (seats, seat belts, console, roll bar, etc) so you can get a good look at the metal in the problem areas. I would bet money that the diamond plate on the sides is there to hide rust.

As far as repair, it depends on how much metal restoration you want to do (or pay for): Some folks will scrap a tub that has major rust in the usual spots, but some folks will take the time to weld new metal into a tub that is full of holes all over the place. If you have to take the route of a replacement tub, there are options from a better CJ tub, a YJ tub, a new or used fiberglass tub, or a new metal tub (not cheap).

As far as repair, you can buy replacement sheet metal panels for the rust-prone areas. There are thin/cheap options and thicker/more expensive options. Or you can buy 16 gauge steel sheet and fabricate your own replacements. Again, people go different routes here.

Please just don't slap in some roofing flashing, bondo, plywood, cardboard, or rivets.
I'm not A cheap guy, sure i like to save as much money as possible but with something like this shortcuts are defenitly not my prefered route. Thanks for the insight, i was looking at just a replacement floor pan, do you think this will fix my seat mount problem? Everything else is relatively good. A few spots under the windshield but nothing major. I actually did check under the diamond plating and it looks alright, nothing too major at least. My major concern right now is the floor. If i buy a new one and choose not to fabricate it myself (i currently don't have a garage because we are udergoing a massive construction project on my house), around how much do you think it would cost to have someone do it for me? I really appreciate the help man.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 10:09 PM   #8
dsemar
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Make sure you crawl under and take a look up at the floor from the bottom. The bolts that hold your seat in don't actually bolt to the floor tin itself. There's a floor support brace underneath the floor tin that has nuts welded in. If that is cancerous, you'll wanna replace those too. All those parts can be found at www.classicent.com I'm in the middle of my own rusty floor situation right now. You can look at my thread to see some good pics of the floor supports I'm talking about.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...errerid=321750

Good luck and remember, it's all about having fun!
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Unread 05-07-2013, 10:18 PM   #9
Samabramson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsemar
Make sure you crawl under and take a look up at the floor from the bottom. The bolts that hold your seat in don't actually bolt to the floor tin itself. There's a floor support brace underneath the floor tin that has nuts welded in. If that is cancerous, you'll wanna replace those too. All those parts can be found at www.classicent.com I'm in the middle of my own rusty floor situation right now. You can look at my thread to see some good pics of the floor supports I'm talking about.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...errerid=321750

Good luck and remember, it's all about having fun!
Thank you for the help! I was under there earlier and it looks like i'll have to replace those too.
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Unread 05-08-2013, 08:24 AM   #10
Samabramson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsemar
Make sure you crawl under and take a look up at the floor from the bottom. The bolts that hold your seat in don't actually bolt to the floor tin itself. There's a floor support brace underneath the floor tin that has nuts welded in. If that is cancerous, you'll wanna replace those too. All those parts can be found at www.classicent.com I'm in the middle of my own rusty floor situation right now. You can look at my thread to see some good pics of the floor supports I'm talking about.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...errerid=321750

Good luck and remember, it's all about having fun!
Yikes. That's going to need some work.
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Unread 05-08-2013, 02:29 PM   #11
Renegade82
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I always hate to comment on these type questions because I know what it took to fix a rotten tub, but not everyone wants to go to the extent I did, plus take the time to do it. Nor do they want to remove the tub to do it. So I can only offer what worked for me in my situation and yours is looking as bad or worse from the little I've seen. Check out my build to see what you may be up against. You may have to skip the first few pages to get to the tub repair portion.
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Unread 05-08-2013, 07:51 PM   #12
Samabramson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
I always hate to comment on these type questions because I know what it took to fix a rotten tub, but not everyone wants to go to the extent I did, plus take the time to do it. Nor do they want to remove the tub to do it. So I can only offer what worked for me in my situation and yours is looking as bad or worse from the little I've seen. Check out my build to see what you may be up against. You may have to skip the first few pages to get to the tub repair portion.
thanks for the tip there and nice thread. it looks like i'll have to replace the tub or at least the floor braces and floor pans...any idea of around how much this will run me? if it's too much i don't know if i'll be able to keep the CJ
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Unread 05-08-2013, 08:05 PM   #13
waterdowg
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The complete floor is aroung $500 with the braces. I looked tossed around what to do as my floor and braces are shot. I opted for a YJ tub. I found on the needs some work for $75. It needed drivers floor and drivers side panel. Sent $100 on those from CL. This a lot less work and money. I could have gotten a mint tub for around $600. Which in my mind is better then the $500 for just the floor panel. So depending on your area price will vary, But should be able to do it for around $600 plus a paint.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 06:27 AM   #14
Renegade82
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Cost will depend on which path you choose. The path I choose, dollar wise, only cost me about $400 but it took a year to do. And that doesn't include upgrading my welder or the 4 tanks of argon I went through. Plus I had access to a sheetmetal brake. If I had it to do again I'd seriously consider a new tub from Willy's Overland. But that's more of a "get it done quicker" and "it's a clean slate to start with" thing. Doing it yourself, if you have the time and drive, is definitely the cheapest route.
But before I'd sell it I'd still consider making it a recreational, off road only type "beater" if you will; where looks and water tightness aren't of concern.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 10:20 PM   #15
Samabramson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82
Cost will depend on which path you choose. The path I choose, dollar wise, only cost me about $400 but it took a year to do. And that doesn't include upgrading my welder or the 4 tanks of argon I went through. Plus I had access to a sheetmetal brake. If I had it to do again I'd seriously consider a new tub from Willy's Overland. But that's more of a "get it done quicker" and "it's a clean slate to start with" thing. Doing it yourself, if you have the time and drive, is definitely the cheapest route.
But before I'd sell it I'd still consider making it a recreational, off road only type "beater" if you will; where looks and water tightness aren't of concern.
Sadly i don't have a garage for the next few months due to construction on the house so she'll just have to sit there... At least she starts and runs perfectly, original 304 and transmission
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