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Unread 11-05-2010, 02:08 PM   #16
stgil
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DANA 30 Specials Tools...

Here are the DIY DANA 30 specials tools...

If you have a friend in a metal workshop...

Pinion Gear Depth:

Here are 3 pieces that are taking place in the differential ...



The shim that will set on the top of the pinion gear...



The piece to set the comparator (the dimensions are not important: as long as it is flat! )



A small family photo ...



Backlash:

That's 2 blocks which will replace the bearings to allow the addition (or removal) of shims more easily ...
The width is important! please ote the chamfer that allows the fake bearing to set on the bottom of the differential cage...



Another view ... (Profile / face as you want! )



I know ... I see the issue happen ... how I got to know the dimensions ... ??

There were two solutions ... or by measuring the old bearings with a micrometer) or by google ...
So I searched at the Koyo LM501314 (bearings of the differential cage)
and here is the summary:



Cost: 100 bucks

Now,

Here are the specs of the special tool for DANA 30 inner seals, You need a threaded rod of diameter 12mm on 30cm, 3 bolts and 2 washers ...



The profile with measurements ...



Here's the measurements ...



A Teflon washers in action ... on the inner seal ...




cost: 20 bucks


I think now that's all folks!!!! One thing to do: do the post more "English Friendly..."

Regards,

Mister JJJH

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Unread 02-06-2011, 10:23 AM   #17
Shiftace
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You answered about a hundred questions that I didn't even know to ask!
Thanks
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Unread 03-07-2011, 02:10 AM   #18
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftace View Post
You answered about a hundred questions that I didn't even know to ask!
Thanks
Very very very late... may be...

You are welcome...

And one more precision:

All I do on the DANA 30 (and AMC 20 too ) is from the "'84 CJ Factory Service Manual(FSM) "

Gilles
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Unread 03-07-2011, 09:47 AM   #19
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I can't see the pics??

And Gilles, thaks great info!
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Unread 03-07-2011, 11:57 AM   #20
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt_Drake View Post


I can't see the pics??

And Gilles, thaks great info!
Hello Capt_Drake,

It's looking good for me ? someone else has this issue ?

Regards

Gilles
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Unread 03-07-2011, 10:44 PM   #21
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amazing write up, thank you
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Unread 03-14-2011, 01:48 AM   #22
stgil
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Hello,

as promise here it is :

The Steering part of the DANA 30:



First the knuckle steering:

We need:

Again, there are a lot of new things:

- A greasable kit upper / lower ball stud (constructor ref: 8126509)
- 6 Special screws SPICER NEW freshly imported from U.S. (ref manufacturer: 8128490)

and something old:

The knuckle steering freshly powder coasted ...
Those who want to change it to something new, it is still time ... but... hurry up ... : (Ref manufacturer: 8129654 for the right to the left 8129655)

NB: I left the old spindle and old ball stud too on the knuckle steering at powder coated time in order to protect the areas they should not paint/sandblaster ...
If you do not... you may damage the machined part of the knuckle during the painting process...



I do not insult you by saying that we must double the amount ... (Right / left)

and It is press time...

With a small block of wood "home made" (20mm to 10mm deep) that will not damage the powder coated paint (although it is extremely resistant)
at the time of removing the old 12 special bolts with the press ...



Which is placed under knuckle like this ...



and pressed gently ... WEARING GLASSES REQUIRED!
NB: we can see the remains of sandblasting of the foregoing powder coated ...


I'll let you do the other 11 ... then it must end with a mallet

and here is the result ...



and pic of the old screw in more detail ... you can see the thickness of the powder coated process...



It's time to set NEW screws after cleaning holes with compressed air to remove the remains of sand ...



we set the new screws with the press...



The lets you make 11 more ... of course you put a double layer of Hammerite ( I Don't know if it exists on US: it's Heavy Duty paint) on the screw heads
to make any well-sealed it from this side ... and here is the result ... with the preparation of the new stage that awaits us:
the installation of the ball studs ... with the right tool ...



It starts with the lower ball joint (which has no screw hole)



weremoves the rubber seal and is installed on the knuckle steering.
It takes all under the press (note the wood block to avoid damaging the powder coated painting)



we install the split pipe (which I corrected with good size see at the end of this post for the special tools...)



we install over a LARGE puck ...




... then a shim that runs through the hole of the higher ball stud .
We center all ... and pressed ...



When the press gauge raise... we stopped ...
This means that the ball hit the wood ...
We need to place wood shims like that to be able to cross the ball ... and preserving powder coasted painting...



And we press again ... When the gauge rises again: it's over!



Turning now to the upper ball stud ...
NO: You do not look at the beautiful hands of my beloved wife ...

the screw hole confirming that this is the ball higher and cloth (white) attached to "V" of the press always to avoid marking the powder coated treatment ...



Same as above ... we remove the rubber seal of the ball stud...



We install the splited pipe and the LARGE shim...
And we press ... we leave a bit raise the gauge of the press ...

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Unread 03-14-2011, 01:49 AM   #23
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and voila ...



I'll let you do the other side (and of course re set the rubber seal)

And here are the long-awaited family photos ...

Note, the L (left) and R (right) to differentiate between knuckle ...




Behind ...



End of this episode...

Regards ,

Gilles
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'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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Unread 03-14-2011, 03:51 AM   #24
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A+++++ write up.... Make this a sticky!!!
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Unread 03-15-2011, 01:46 AM   #25
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_Tiz View Post
A+++++ write up.... Make this a sticky!!!
Thanks CJ_Tiz ... but it's already done! Thanks again


Today a new episode...

Setting Knuckle Steering on DANA 30



You need (included in the kit ball stud ) the cotter pin, the upper ball stud nut,the upper ball stud split ring seat, the lower ball stud jamnut



First, we tighten by hand the the upper ball stud split ring seat with right tool ...



FSM says : "the top of the seat should be flush with the top of the yoke" that's it:



Normally I'll have need that ...



A: I was unable to found it in FRANCE, B: it would have rotted my powder coated treatement...

then we go to the press ... The axle head down (the upper ball stud split ring seatdown)



it puts the axle through the wood planks with 26mm hole in the threaded sleeve (all this to avoid rotting paint)



and we set the knuckle steering ... the 26 mm hole allow to set correctly the upper ball stud



Another view, we can see the mark (R) (right) for those who have doubts about the mounting position!



Now we fix a plank with a hole of 60 mm I think (I'm not very sure) that can exert pressure on the knuckle steering and NOT on the lower ball stud



Another board above and you press very gently (as soon as the gauge raise : we stops everything!)



The goal of this manipulation it's to block the knuckle steering with Dana 30 Axle
So if you have the job well done ... if you try to release knuckle steering, by lifting up ... it should not move!



So it's time to put the the lower ball stud jamnut ...



And we tighten it to 115 Nm



when done ... we tighten the upper ball stud split ring seat with appropriate tool to 68 Nm (Sorry no pics with torque wrench : I forget it so I put a previous pic... )




Finally just have to tighten the upper nut to 138 Nm
(Sorry no pics with torque wrench : I forget it too)



But ... Houston, we've got a problem ...




Unable to set the pin ...Do not panic Apollo 13 ! : FSM has foreseen this: if the tightening torque of 138 Nm, you can not install the pin ...
you tighten until it is possible to install the pin ...



That's it



done !!!!!



I'll let you do the other side, eh?

End of this episode,

Regards,

Gilles
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FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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Unread 03-15-2011, 09:38 AM   #26
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Checking turning torque of knuckle steering:

The torque of the knuckle steering must be less than 15 Nm .. well ... they are new ... they must be good!
Tss Tss Tss: We check!

First we made ​​severals moves of the knuckle in order to set the balls studs in place ...



And there we do following mount :
A piece of wood of a known length (here 25 cm (~10") ) installed perpendiculary to the axis of the wheel
a screw into the hole (closest to the knuckle steering) used for the ball joints of the steering linkage ...

we pull straight and when the knuckle is moving (starts turning), we shall take and read of the gauge:



In my case, we are reading a bit more than 5 kg ...


To convert this into Nm: 5 x 0.25 x 9.8 = 12.25 Nm

For those who want to know how I did ... take a look on this post above for the theory ...

Good! It's all good, it is less than 15 Nm!

It noted that still is not far ... even with the new!
I did the same control over another ball ... just over 5 kg : we are balanced!

Piece of cake!!!

This torque is really important ... it may damage the steering box if it is too high ... So check it!!!

End of the episode,

Gilles
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FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
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Unread 03-16-2011, 02:42 AM   #27
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Spindle setup time:

Before it remains only to insert the NEW axle assembly (ALLOY Heavy Duty) in the DANA 30 (I keep the old axles in spare)



That's it ...



The spindle:

Here, everything is NEW:

- A spindle kit includes seals and the inner bearing of the spindle and of course: the spindle (ref constructor 8128147)
Always the same: it takes two (left / right)



We put the inner bearing a freezer bag with Silica Gel packets to absorb moisture ...



And placed for a good night Sleep in the freezer (max (-30 c)(-22F)) with MAGNUM Chocolate ... ... help yourself...



The next day you take your 2 spindle that you put in the oven thermostat 1 (90 C (194F)) for 45 min ...
DO NOT tell your wife that you do that ... I do not know why ... but she becomes hysterical



When the oven is ringing (45 minutes elapsed). You place properly (with GLOVES BECAUSE IT'S VERY HOT)
the rocket on the "V" of the press. You insert the inner bearing (you out of the freezer at the last moment ).
Normally (in my case) the inner bearing "falls" almost alone in the bottom of the rocket ... It must help to end with a socket
and a small mallet. But very GENTLY: This bearing is extremely fragile!! (You can do the whole operation with the press
but be very carefull)

Sorry for the photo of the insertion of the bearing it had to go VERY quickly to take advantage of the temperature difference ...



A pic of inner bearing in place.
Note that the flat side is toward the outside ...



We wait for the spindle getting cooler ... and when it's cold, it installs the inner seal, the flat side toward the inside ...




And you end up on DANA 30to insert the washer (chamfer inwards)
Make sure the half shaft is super clean ...



Then the V seal lip to the outside ...



here it is when it is in his seat ...



Back inside the spindle that will be greased ...

It then re-install the 2 lip seal to the outside (the flat side toward the inside ) ...



We lightly grease the shaft and the V-seal



We insert the spindle ...



We use the mallet to be sure of being at the bottom (you will notice that the powder coated treatment was removed on the face of the knuckle
this is allow a best 'veneer' ... When the spindle will be set, I'll put a double layer of HD paint ...




when is being done, we install 'brake shield' ( disc protection) ref: 5363379

They are clever : they put a keyed this time! R: Right



When installing make sure you leave room for the caliper bracket

A little tip: the edge of the protection should be at the upper ball stud ...
(Sorry for the cobwebs I have no time to clean up: A meeting in the mud and you'll see nothing)



Then: Installing a new washer ... (ref: 4001181)



and the NEW self-locking nut of 3/8" (DO NOT RE-USE OLD ONE: SINGLE USE PURPOSE) (and NOT FOUND IN FRANCE) (ref: 994925)

They are freshly imported from FASTENAL (very thanks to Keith460 for his advise)

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Unread 03-16-2011, 02:45 AM   #28
stgil
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That is tightened to 48 Nm ...



Applying tightening with the following sequence ...



And since this is an important safety feature, we mark them on top (I use typex, but it could use something else (Loctite, etc. ...)
To report that it has been torqued! And so: NO MORE ASKING THE QUESTION: Tight or not?




we mark each on every tighten ...

I put grease on the spindle...

That is what happens when it's over:



End of this episode,

Brake disc follows... be patient...

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 03-17-2011, 01:38 AM   #29
stgil
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As usual... one day one post...

The brake disk :

You will need:

-2 disc brakes SSBC Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation brand (the "Short Stop" ref: SSBC-A2370000) which
advantageously replace references constructor 5363421.

The only thing more: it is the quality (I hope) and supposedly better braking for $ 40 more we will not deprive

-2 hubs with 5 holes previously varnish (conctructeur ref: 5363421) (WARNING: There are 6 holes depending
on the manufacturing year of the CJ: pivotal period: 1981)
-2 kit bearings TIMKEN interior / exterior with its seals (ref manufacturer: 5356661K)
-10 bolts (wheel stud) (ref manufacturer: 5357196)



We start with the hub ... It installs the inside bearing cup (Reference TIMKEN LM501310)



We put the 73mm puck over and we press! (You can see the wooden plate to avoid damage the hub)



We return the hub for the outside bearing cup (ref TIMKEN LM102910)



73mm washer and then we press...



And voila ... I'll let you do the other hub ...



and now we assemble the disc brake with the hub..



we install the screw




and then we press ... ... (an extension and a socket , every 2 blown, are the hack ... and ... PROTECT YOURSELF!) And it's not a hard press: it fits easily ...



We press other screws with the following sequence ...



I let do the other disk
...
And voila, a suggested presentation! BEFORE / AFTER (yes!: they have much the same size!)
with the added bonus of new chrome bolts (which I struggled to find in europe)!



So we need to add, now, the bearings cones and the seal...



we fit the inner bearing cone (TIMKEN LM102949 )
Of course I grease it before and then ... direction inside the hub ...



we install the seal (included in the inside/outside bearing kit ref: 5356661K)



we install a 73mm puck and a few hammer blows later ...



voila ...



back to the spindle, we set the brake disc on it ... it fits easily



We set now the outer bearing cone TIMKEN LM501349 (cone) (grease ready of course)



We will now set this quartet (ref A867K)



It starts with the flat washer:

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Unread 03-17-2011, 01:38 AM   #30
stgil
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Then the nut ...



That is tightened to 70 Nm with a 2"1/8 socket



then...



tool angle tightening ( but it can be done easily without it )



and back off (I took 60 ) :



it is VERY important: because if NOT untight ... bearings will be screw up AND the spindle too!


Then comes the second ring



and finally the last nut ...



That also is tightened to 70 Nm



We ensure that the wheel turns easily (if not ... there is a problem...)



...and there is NO lateral play ...



Everything is Ok!

I let you do the other side...

End of this episode...

And some teasing... Follows the WARN hubs...

Regards,

Gilles
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