CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuilt and Setup PART I - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 44 Old 10-28-2010, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART I

Hello Guys!,

I offer you a recipe for a successful DANA 30 total rebuilding.

Sorry for my english ... it's not my first language

So! For the DANA 30 recipe ... you will need:

A Dana 30 (30-40 Kg) well pickled & painted, dry and free of dirt and totally ripped ...

First we will deal with the stuffing:

I-Setting up differential with its ring and its satellites ...

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

As utensils, you will need:

- From oil Bridge API GL-5 SAE 80W
- Clean gloves
- Screwdriver
- A mallet (I had a mallet for Valentine's Day (how? There a message?), It is called "MC"
- Torque wrench with a socket 9 / 16 inches
- 2 sets of shims measures

As ingredients:
- A differential cage defatted with petrol

- A differential gear set kit (ref 8126497)

- A ring and the tree of attack that will not be used for the time ratio of 4.56 (ref 8134385)

Good! here we go!

First, it will have to work in a clean environment (up to avoid dirt, steel chips, etc. ... the compressed air is our friend ...)

And we will start to be greased with oil all the places that will receive the parts in the cage

The gear of the half axles shafts ...The Brush must be absolutely clear of dirt!!!!

The satellite gears ... the hole axis of satellite ...

We grease the gears of such halves axles...

and their friction washers (both sides) that are placed on the pinion

And installs it in the cage ...

Like the other side ...

And is subjected to oiling the gears and their retainers ...

So there, there is a subtlety for the installation, you must put a sprocket on one side of the cage ...

The other on the other side ...

Is pressed with a finger muscles on one side ... Taaddaaa and the other gear is set up too!

We grease the axis of satellite ...

that is put in place (do not like me ... note the position of the pin hole to put in a good way ...)

Warning! must be put in place the cups running around with what you fall into the hands ...

When the pin is inserted ... just put the pin with the help of my buddy "MC" at the beginning ...

and end with the screwdriver and the "MC" ...

To be continued... (I'm limited to using 20 images per post... and there is ~200 pics... so stay connected!!!)

Mister JJJH

Last edited by stgil; 10-29-2010 at 04:56 AM.
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post #2 of 44 Old 10-28-2010, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART II

This story take place after ...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuilt and Setup PART I


You hit a small cage to blow the place up and down is measured with two sets of shims between the thickness
the cage and the gables of the half shafts ... phew! : 0.10mm! to 0.15mm, it would have had to change the cage ... (Do not panic!
You can find it anyway! ref. 8126495 compatible ratio 4.09 4.56)

Well, now, we will crown his majesty the cage ...

We hold the screw holes ...

and we put up the 10 bolts of NEW 9 / 16 "LOOSELY!

When the 10 bolts are installed, the cage is mounted on a vice GENTLY with wooden blocks and boards and is tightened
75 Nm with the torque wrench the bolts 10 the following sequence ...

Voila! the differential is back!

I have not yet recovered the ball, it's normal, it will happen when will the "spike" in the differential DANA 30

Just prior to cram ...

There is a small trim to prepare ...

Preparation Time: 10 minutes ...


- From the deck oil API GL-5 SAE 80W
- The DIY tool for setting up joint
(I think I slightly exaggerated the thickness ... but I did not want me to have 2 times))

- Clean gloves (sorry I was wearing!)


2 seals , prefer those raised outdoors in Toledo, OH (ref. 8121781)

This ensures that the machined parts DANA 30 which will receive the seals are CLEAN and are copiously oil ...

we install the gasket Ooops: I have my hand that forked!

So we install the gasket in the right direction ... and we do the same on the other side ...


We center the tool and ensures that the two joints are in place ...

And you shake ... you will hear two "clicks" features when joints fit completely into the tube ...

And here is the result ... and the first...

and the second...

Finished work on the housing and ...

The next step is TADDAAAA! ...

II-Setting the Differential ...

A short theoretical course required ... Sorry ...
Good! sit at the bottom (near the radiator) is gone!

In the setting of a bridge ... there are 3 importants elements:

The pinion depth
The preload pinion
-The backlash

The pinion depth:

This is the distance between the head of the pinion gear and the center of the ring (see figure below).
For Dana 30 is the theoretical value: 57.15 mm with a tolerance or - 0.05 mm,
our English speaking friends = 2.250 inches 0.002 inches tolerance. This theoretical value varies with
figures reported on the pinion (We'll see during our practice session).

This distance is "set" by a set of spacers located between the axle housing and the bearing cage
shaft lower attack ... (see figure below)


The torque (angular force) needed to begin rotating the shaft to attack without the crown of the differential.
For the Dana 30 it must be between 1 and 2 Nm with old bearings and 2 and 5 Nm with NEW
bearings by MR 252 (FSM 84-86 CJ) (MR 239 and the careful maintenance manual DANA 30 does not make this difference. We must
also say that the maintenance manual DANA 30 calls for a change of bearings when replacing
attack tree / wreath))

This adjustment is done by adding more or fewer shims between the pinion (chute provided for this purpose) and turnover
higher (see chart below)

Go! Do not fall asleep! It's almost over!

The backlash:

This is the game that is seen with a comparator when the LOCK and pinion that is rotated
the crown ... The value is set through the shims located between the 2 bearings in the cage of the differential
(See figure below)

At a DANA 30 this value should be between 0.12 mm and 0.25 mm (0.005 - 0.010 inches)

From theory to practice ...

The first thing we will solve is the distance tapered ...

The new kit comes paired differential ... ie a technician checked the distance and backlash conical
optimum for a pair Crown / Tree Attack ...

The distance is engraved on the tapered shaft of attack ... by 2267 "or 57.58mm

The backlash on the ring... by 0.006 "

To be continued...

Mister JJJH

Last edited by stgil; 10-29-2010 at 05:21 AM.
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post #3 of 44 Old 10-28-2010, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART III

This story take place after ...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuilt and Setup PART II

So? how do you measure the thickness of shim required? I'll avoid the obscurantism with
Tables 2 dimensional ... I understand me ...

Example... Is better:

What we need is the distance of the pinion gear (which is also etched, but in the "old school" method)...
The 4 means 4 / 1000 of an inch compared to the theoretical distance 2.250 "or 2.254" (57.25mm)

here ... A short summary (with colors is even better!)

A difference of 0.33mm (57.58-57.25 = 0.33mm (0.013 ")) between the former and less of the new gear. To achieve
this new distance conical at first, and assuming that the thickness of shim set the former
pinion was correct, just the measure (micrometer / Palmer) and remove 0.33 mm for the new thickness
Bilge necessary ...
Everybody understand??

Normally (although I did my job), it will really simplify the practice session ...

In practice ...
We measure the shims (own property) including the deflector (which made the war) to old pinion ...

with a Palmer ...

and we get the ...

2 shims 0.08mm
2 shims 0.27mm
A deflector attached to a total of 0.52mm 1.22mm

The new shims come in 0.08 mm, 0.12mm, 0.27mm (measured at Palmer) Hmm ... You tell me: these weird values ...
But if it goes into the thumb, the closest values are respectively: 0.003 "0.005" 0.01 "which is much more" normal ":

So the old shims are in inches ALSO:
2 shims 0.003 "
2 holds 0.01 "
A deflector attached to 0.02 ". What makes us a thickness of 1.17mm or 0046"
A small picture to summarize all that ...:

You already notice a difference of 0.05 mm (1.22mm-1.17mm) between the measured and theoretical value ... This gap
justifies the imprecision of the measure /-0.01mm and the number of measurements made (5 measurements = 4 wedges deflector) ...
which is QUITE NORMAL.

But ... we reached the tolerable deviation + / - 0.05mm of the pinion depth ! SO be careful!

Good! Now, we must pass of 0.046 " to 0.033" (-0.013 " either -0.33mm) ... easy!:

A shim of 0.01 "
a shim of 0.003 " +
and a deflector shim 0.02! = 0.033 "(0.84mm) making an air gap of 0.33mm (1.17mm-0.84mm)

It will be our first attempt with these shims...

But it would be too good that it works the first time!

Preparation of setting backlash:

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

-A comparator and his magnetic base
-A ratchet and socket 5 / 8 "
-2 Templates bearing differentials ...

-2 Hats of their cages and screws (I remind you that had differentiated during disassembly)
-1 Of differential cage with satellite and its ring (the previous preparation).

IMPORTANT: This must be done as the pinion and calibrated IS NOT INSTALLED!
It allows to estimate the size of shims needed to the backlash.

It installs the fake bearings on the differential rate chamfer inwards ... and the first who told my wife I did it on the kitchen table, I do talk to him no more ... at the same time, this is not a recipe?

I'll let you do the other side ... ditto

and one is in the garage to put our cage in the right direction in the DANA 30 ...

We hold the fakes bearings right and left into the DANA 30

It installs caps differential (following their initial positions) with their screws are tightened and gently with ratcheting it does not move ...

at all ...

It installs the magnetic base on the DANA 30 housing ...

It identifies a bolt ring gear with tipex, marker, etc. ...
It is important for the following measure of backlash ...
It asks the comparator probe as perpendicular as possible
and tightens the base ...

We hold it firmly on the left the differential ... and it resets the comparator ...

and is doing well right differential ... and note the measurement displayed by the comparator ...

And we repeat this operation (left -> reset (if necessary) -> right -> Read, and so on ...)
several times to be certain that the measure is the same.If slightly fluctuating, (it was not my case)
is to average ...

and we keep this value will be installed later when we setup the pinion ...

Mine is: 1.99 mm

to be continued...

Last edited by stgil; 10-29-2010 at 02:52 AM.
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post #4 of 44 Old 10-28-2010, 01:53 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IV

The story take place after

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuilt and Setup PART III...

Setting up Pinion Depth / Preload:

Preparation Time: 2 hours (1 hour for pinion depth , 1 hour for the preload
always with the right tools ... )

you will need:


- A torque wrench up 400N.m
- Templates of bearings and shaft
- A socket 1 "1 / 8
- A socket 5 / 8 "ratchet and
- 2 "washers" special for the setup of bearing cages
- An immobilizer tree attack
- A threaded rod with washers and nuts
- My friend "MC"
- The cone which was removed from the on old inner bearing of the pinion
(You will prepare the following recipe)
- Oil bridge API GL-5 SAE 80W
- A bearing puller
- A mystery object .... haha

- Press

two pipes

- A set of shims measurement

Fresh ingredients from left to right:

-A nut (ref 801367)
-A washer (ref 1791576)
-A lip seal (ref 998092N)
WARNING: the joint changes according to year of construction and type of flange used!
-A deflector outer seal (ref 636566)
- A outer bearing TIMKEN 02872 (body) / 02820 (cage / bowl) (ref 8124052)
-Some spoilers (I took me 10 () you'll understand why ) (ref 934937)
-Shims for setting pinion depth and preload (ref 8126503)
-An inner bearing TIMKEN HM88649 (body) / HM88610 (cage / bowl) (ref 8126499)
- A baffle Inner Seal (ref 3893982)
And of course, an pinion (with the kit manufacturer ref 8134385)

I did not put the yoke because I keep mine in good condition

If you must change it still exists!
WARNING! there are different references depending on the year of construction and goes together with the outer seal !

It should also caps their cages and differential screws (always different, I know I am rehashing) ...

Go! hop hop hop!

Oh! I know you'll tell me ... Where it leaves the body bearing it we never spoke?? huh??
there ... the old pinion inner bearing ... being installed in the press with tears rolling down ...

Is pressed ... and recovering bearing ... deflector has been destroyed ...

It rips first the bearing with a saw ...

Keep children at these unbearable images ...

Then it completes the grinder ...

Remains to deburr and clean (clear the chip) and then finally put something in
the gap for the ring is slightly away ... Here a piece of one of my files ...
it was not exactly what I intended to do ... but it also works by "accident" ...
All this to allow insertion of the new bearing "cleanly" and not be
confuse... when trying to remove the tool ...

Now we take the new pinion and the deflector is installed ...

We install the inner bearing in the right direction! ...

It installs the body bearing the old roll in the other direction ... This aims
avoid "bully" the new bearing when it is inserted ...

Then installs itself on the whole the press as follows ...
We put a little oil to allow easier insertion ...

We press until the deflector no longer move!

And releases the pinion shaft gently ...
to install it as follows to remove the old body bearing easily
and this is the first bearing is installed!

We comes to outer DANA housing to install the cage bearing inner / outer ...
So first , it will lubricate the housing of the bearing cage outside ...

To be continued...

Mister JJJH

Last edited by stgil; 10-28-2010 at 10:28 AM.
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post #5 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART V

this story takes place after:

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IV

and inside ...

It installs by hand the bearing cage outside ...

We will then start the other side to install the inner bearing cage and then puts it back in place

deflector and the holds that we calculated in our previous adventures (see chapter "practice ")...
About shims ... One of my friends says :
" When you will make the final pitch, remember to put the shims of smaller thickness in the middle. This is important
because it avoids the deformation of small shims dynamic use of the bridge at its usual deformation and calculated and
to settle."

I respected this rule by placing the baffle 0.02 ", the shim of 0.003" and finally the shim of 0.01 "...

then sets up the bearing cage bearing inside ...

72mm Washer is installed on the interior side with threaded rod. Be carefull: DO NOT to damage the deflector ...

We install washer and nut ...

We do the same thing the other side ... nut and 73mm washer ...

It installs a wrench of the inner side ...

and is tightened with the outer wrench ...

A quick "MC" of 2 sides to be sure it's tight ...

we remove the threaded rod and washers. Be carreful about the deflector!

And here it is on the outside ...

And the interior side ensures that the deflector does not move ...

Now we take the pinion it installs in the housing


and returns it to the other side to install some stuff...
First the outer bearing ...
NB: This is quite normal that I did not put the preload shims ... we take care of the distance conical first!

The deflector ...

The Yoke...
NB: Always the same I have not installed the seal because you can install it once

Yoke washer ...

And OLD NUT (of the old pinion) ...

To be continued...
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post #6 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VI

this story takes place after:

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART V...

We install the immobilizer on the yoke of pinion ...

And you begin to tighten the nut ... so we obtain a preload between 1 to 2 Nm

Since it is extremely difficult to find a direct reading torque wrench for an individual (I toured all of the garages
region ... not Found ... ... But I found a garage who kindly lent me his torque wrench 1-9 Nm:
to show you we can do without it and show you a method that is as accurate and cheap!

I will use the buddy Newton ... no... it's not the apple... but gravity ...

A tiny hint of physics courses ... get out your notebooks ...

Everyone remembers the formula:

P = Mg

P is the weight (force) of an object expressed in Newtons (N)
M is the mass of an object in kilograms (kg)
g is the gravitational constant Terrestrial 9.8 in N / kg

Our friends the Martians will make the necessary correction to 3.7 and
our selenite neighbor to 1.7

I remind you, that they have... the first extraterrestrial Jeep !!!:

End of the joke...

Preload must be in the range 2-5 Nm (new bearings as I remember)
It's like putting a meter from the axis (the axis connected to a theoretically
massless rod) between 204g (2 * 9.8) and 510g (5 * 9.8) so that the axis starts to turn ...
A small diagram to fix the ideas ...

I'm going to use gravity to make this measurement ...
except I'm not going to put the axis at 1m (too much trouble (taking into account the mass of the rod (goodbye accuracy) etc ...)...
how do I do ...
Ben was a superb rod ... balanced (zero mass) and all that ...: our yoke...

But it has a radius of 4.13 cm (0.0413 m) ...

Never mind! Applying a simple rule of 3 and it's all good!
0.0413m should be applied to a mass of between 4.94 kg (0.204/0.0413) and 12.35 kg (0.510/0.413)

Easy! Good!
That is all ... but how do we do in practice ... Already the shaft axis of attack should be parallel to the ground:

You are not agree ? Ok! we will apply it in practice!

In our present case (I remind you that regulates the pinion depth), we must tighten the nut so as to obtain a preload between 1 and 2N.m

First, since you not believe me ... we will measure it with the wrench of the garage workshop...

I managed (by tightening the nut with a normal wrench) for a value of 1.5 Nm (The torque wrench "triggers" to 1.5 Nm.
At 1.6 Nm the torque wrench turn the pinion without triggering ) That's what we want !!!

And applying the previous formula but this time between 1 and 2 Nm.
I've done so far 5 Nm with a step of 0.5 Nm (the weight to get the figures are completely right) ... I let them)??

Those who want the little formula excel give me a PM ...

Well now there's more to the mystery object out ah! ah!

And yes! a load cell (same for fishing!) with memory to 7 $

1 - is pulled perpendicularly to the ground ...
2 - as soon as the shaft begins to rotate, it stops pulling
3 - was the maximum value stored by the ruler: in this case at 3.7 kg or 1.5 Nm at 0.0413m! it works!
and it's super accurate!

That's the FRENCH TOUCH !

Now ... you can have a direct reading torque wrench ... (But much less funny and expensive )

Good! but back on topic! namely the pinion depth:

Now that the preload is 1.5 Nm, we go back to the housing to install
the fake bearing and the central rod ... (BE CAREFUL WITH THE SEALS

It installs the differential caps (always differentiated) and we tight them ...

And we install, the tool to measure the pinion depth, on the top one the pinion, ...

And it puts two shims 0.50 mm shims to allow the comparator to go over the rod...

It installs the gauge on the block with the 2 shims of 0.50mm above ...

It is zero on the dial ...

When it's all done ... we scoop the comparator on the rod and storing the
highest value! in my case it is-0.23mm.
You need to make several readings to make sure this value!

What does it mean this?

Well we have:
57.15 mm (standard pinion depth distance)
+ 1.00 mm (2 shimm of 0.50mm)
- 0.23 mm (measured value with the comparator)
57.92 mm (current pinion depth)

The pinion depth desired is: 57.58 mm

So it was all wrong: The pinion depth is TOO big : it must be reduced!
To do this, we must Increasing the thickness of shims

0.84 mm (thickness when measuring stalls)
+0.34 mm (Delta necessary: (57.92-57.58))
1.18 mm

So we need a thick shims of 1.18 mm!

who will leave with my shims 0,003", 0,005", 0.01 "and baffle shim 0.02 " as follows:

0.02 "(spoiler attached)
+ 0.006 "(2 x 0.003")
0.02 (2 x 0.01 ")
0.046 " ie ~ 1.17 mm, which is not too bad, compared to 1.18mm

So at work ... We must dismantle the pinion ... we remove the nut and washer ...

The yoke (you need to go nicely with "MC")...

The deflector ...

To be continued...

Mister JJJH...

Last edited by stgil; 10-29-2010 at 05:19 AM.
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post #7 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 05:05 AM
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I need to read it tonight after work.


1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #8 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 05:58 AM
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Mister JJJ,
Thanks for sharing this with us. I wish it were easier to read (more English friendly), but I'll definately put this thread to good use.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #9 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 06:06 AM
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Posts: 6,444
Yes, I agree. Stgil is basically showing how Ring and Pinion gear sets are installed "Professionally" with the setup tools and jigs that the average person will not have in their toolbox unfortunately.

Most of the guys reading through this post will struggle with the translation from French to English as it is more like European English that uses names on certain items not known in the American English language. I know this from dealing with manuals on equipment made in Europe that are translated into English and what they call certain pieces of hardware that makes no sense to us Yanks. One of my many jobs at work is to rewrite technical manuals to American English so the average Joe can understand.

But still, it is an excellent write up just the same. One must read and figure out what words mean what in the photos posted but you will get it sooner or later. I know I couldn't write this in French, that's for sure!

1984 CJ-7 Renegade

Restoration Thread:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=434226
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post #10 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VII

Thanks guys!!!

I promise to do more "English Friendly" at the end of the post!!!!

But back to the topic...

The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VI...

And knock (with "MC") on the pinion...

To fall CARRREEEEFFFUULLLY the outer bearing, beware not to damage the deflector when knocking the pinion gear!

It removes the pinion (always BE CAREFULL with the deflector) ...

And we return to the other side with the 73mm washer and 50mm pipe and "MC" to drop the cage properly the innner bearing cage...

and voila! the inner bearing is ok but the deflector shim is totaly destroyed... Now you understand why I took 10!!!

Once again we oil again ...

Well we set a NEW deflector

the 4 shims previously calculated (always placed on the principle than before !)

If you think I'm going to hit me again full installation of the pinion ... You shove your fingers in eye to the elbow !!!!!!!!!

... I'll let you do ... you're the big boys
And we go directly to measure the pinion depth ...
This time we set a 0.50mm shim above the standard distance pinion detph... always to allow comparator go over the rod ...

We again compare the measure with the same method as before ...

and we obtain a measure of -0.10 mm!


57.15 mm (regular pinion depth)
+0.50 mm (1 wedge 0.50)
- 0.10 mm (measured value to the comparator)
57.55 [ mm (pinion depth current measure)

The pinion depth desired is: 57.58 mm

So it is in -3/100 of a millimeter! which is within the tolerance! +/- 0.05 mm! (+/- 0.002 ")

Anyway I have no shims less than 8/100mm shims (0.003 "), if I add one I'd be" less good "
The alternative would be to replace one of the blocks 0.01 "and replace them with shims of 0.005" and 0.003 "to slightly
increase the thickness ... bad luck ... there is not enough shims to make this kind of manipulation ...

So ... I'll stop there! Note that I'm good (I'm within the tolerances!)

Well you know what? the pinion depth it's over!

So we will address ...

The preload

The preload shim kit comes in 4 sizes: 0.03 "0.01", 0.005 ", 0.003"

Good! how you doing?

First we remove the pinion that we have set lovingly ...

But do you know by now ... So

We disassembled the bolt and washer ...

The yoke ...

outer deflector ...

outer bearing (still with "MC ")...

STOP! and there is inserted the shims ... then I try with 0.06" ... (2 shims of 0.03 ")

it reinstalls the outer bearing ...

The outer deflector ...


yoke washer ...

Last edited by stgil; 10-29-2010 at 07:22 AM.
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post #11 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 06:25 AM
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English friendly or not, I know from experience it takes time and slows the whole process down taking photos, editing and posting. Pictures are worth a 1000 words!

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #12 of 44 Old 10-29-2010, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VIII

The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VII...

and the OLD locknut or regular nut ! ...

we install the DIY immobilizer on the pinion, and is tightened with the KILLER torque wrench (thank you DAD! )
up to 352 Nm (350 Nm will win eh? ), with steps of 50 Nm (50-100-150-200-250-300-350)

And you have a small glimpse into the extreme conditions in which I work ...

Definitely a garage of 20 square meters to work ... is not much!

If you can talk to my wife ...

at each step of 50 Nm, you dismount the immobilizer of pinion and measure the preload with the load cell:

Good! in our case it FAIL: at 100 Nm of torque we are already at 12 kg! of preload (++++5Nm!!)
We stop everything to avoid killing the bearings ...
We dismantles the pinion axle ... (I'll let you do eh!)

And this time we try with 0.07 shims ... (2 shims 0.03 " and one of 0.01")

Back in...

... Bearing, deflector, bridle, washer, bolt, tighting, preload test ...

And there ... ben ... we reached the 352 Nm of torque and preload reached the 500 grams!! (Less than one Nm !)

It's still false so we will try this time 0.065 "...
We dismantle all ... shims 0,065 this time (2 shims 0.03 "and a shim of 0.005")

and we go back ...

... Bearing, deflector, bridle, washer, bolt, tighting, preload test ...

and there ... we reached the 352 Nm (350 Nm) torque with a preload to 9 kg (just over 3.5 Nm) ...

A few strokes of "MC" (GENTLY Anyway eh! ) on the pinion axle ... (to set definitively the preload)

and we measure again the preload ... it lost 500g (8.5 kg or 3.5 Nm) is still good! Yeeeeeppeeee

We have a little control to be done to be sure :...

We measure again the pinion depth ...

Normally the pinion depth will may not vary or very little ...
This is my case: it has lost only two hundredths -0.08mm ...


57.15 mm (standard conical wedge distance)
+ 0.50 mm (1 shim of 0.50mm)
- 0.08 mm (measured value with the comparator)
57.57 mm (current pinion detph)

The pinion depth desired is: 57.58mm ... it is at 1 / 100 of a millimeter!

This is explained by adding preload spacers and tighting at 350 Nm ..
So even closer to the ideal pinion depth ! good news!

We dismantles the regular nut ...

yoke washer ...

The yoke with a little help of "MC" ...

You turn the axle so that "the nose" is in the air and we apply the LOCTITE 5923 ...
Be SURE that the machined part that will receive the seal ring is clean ...

voila ...

we set the outer seal ...

with pipe of 50mm diameter and 72mm thick washer ...

A few shots of "MC" ... I know: I'll have to redo his makeup and it is fuzzy... sorry....

we oil outer seal ...

It installs the yoke (directly with the DIY immobilizer why not ...)

It installs the NEW washer...

and finally the NEW nut (we see it is slightly oval) ... (Warning: One use Only!)

To be continued...

Mister JJJH...

Last edited by stgil; 10-29-2010 at 11:18 AM.
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post #13 of 44 Old 11-03-2010, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: FRANCE
Posts: 664
CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IX

The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VIII

Implementation of the nut so ...

and tightening at 285 N.m. .. (Always the same ... we go in steps ... 50-100-150-200-250-285)

Some small strokes of "MC" on axle top...

and we control the last time the preload: 8 Kg slightly less than 3.5 Nm:
it's all good!

I also want to check one last time as the pinion depth: this has not changed!

One last important detail regarding the oil seal ...
It is noted that the pinion yoke protects the rubber seal ... hence importance to choose the right oil seal according to his yoke...

And well you know what?


III-Adjusting backlash

DURATION: 1 hour


A kit-bearing differential 2x Koyo LM501349-N (body) / LM501314-N (cage / bowl) (ref : 8126500)
- kit- shims bearings (ref : 8126506)
- Loctite 243 (Loctite 'normal', replacing the Loctite 'FRENETANCH')
-4 Screws NEW for the differential level (ref: 179890)

The "OLD" ONES ... :
-2 bearing caps (I remind you (one more time) that had differentiated during disassembly
-1 Of differential cage with satellite and its ring (the previously in the preparation)

A comparator-and magnetic base
-A ratchet and socket 5 / 8 "
-2 fake bearing differentials ...

- The body bearing of the old bearing differential
(He suffered the same treatment as that of the tree except that attack does not cut it ..: back:.)

- a DIY spreader

- The bearing DIY puller ... if it is going bad ...

The first thing to do ... is to measure the side play ... like last time ...

So ... Going back fake bearing ...
It's the same than before... except that now there is the pinion gear...
SO IMPORTANT: When installing the ring try to not knock the pinion gear
and the ring against one another !!!

It installs the bearings caps in place and the comparator (the vertical as possible) against the bolt we identified previously...

We hold the zero of the comparator by pulling the ring to you ...

then you push the ringin the opposite direction ...

Is repeated several times so far it is consistent ...

Here we get 1.38 mm ....

Shims are supplied in the differentials 0.03 ", 0.01", 0.005 "and 0.003" ...

Since it uses the method of the "DANA 30 Maintenance Manual"
(>>>HERE<<< it is)
Here's how it goes this:

We have:
lateral play WITHOUT pinion gear of 1.99 mm (see previous episode)
lateral play WITH pinion gear of 1.38 mm

- The thickness of the shims ring side will therefore:

1.38 is 0,054"

- The thickness of shims of the opposite side will:

0.61 mm (1.99-1.138) which was added a preload of .38 mm (0.015")

or Total 0.99mm or (0.039")

We decompose the blocks as follows:
side crown 1x 0.03 "2x 0.01" 0.005 "or 0.055" ... (Value closest to 0.54 ")
side 1x 0.03 "3x 0.009" ... or 0.039 "

The theory is over... Cool stuff! we go to practice! ... :

It installs 0.055 shims on the ring side...

we oil differiential cage to permit insertion of the bearing easier ...

To be continued...

Mister JJJH

Last edited by stgil; 11-04-2010 at 03:37 AM.
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post #14 of 44 Old 11-04-2010, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: FRANCE
Posts: 664
CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART X

The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IX...

It installs the new bearing ...

it then installs the body of the old bearing case to avoid killing the new bearing during insertion ...

Then the "puck" of 72 mm and pressed ...

We go to the other side of the differential to set the 0.039" shims

We lubricated the machined part, and we install the new bearing, the cage body of the old bearing, the "puck" is pressed and this is the result ...

Good! It comes near the end of this recipe ...
I therefore propose to use the spreader...

We install the spreader...

Then comparator this way ...

and it spreads ... IMPORTANT: do not exceed 0.50mm! I got stopped at 0.40 mm is more than enough ... !

We install the differential cage with the cups of bearings ...
CARREEFFUUULLLYY do not hurt the pinion ...

We completely install the differential knocking alternately left center right
with "MC" and a wood block wrapped in a soft

We mount the bearings caps with the old screw ... (Always differentiated! Eh ! )

We Tighten ...

Spreader is removed and you install the dial comparator to measure backlash ...

It immobilizes the pinion gear... but with a preload of 3.5 Nm (8 kg) its not move like that .... !
It push on the ring and we set zero on the dial ...

we pull and we measure ...

0.12 mm ... not bad
I remind you that the backlash should be between 0.12mm and 0.25 mm. is the low range but it is good ...

And as for this pair crown / tree attack it should be 0.006 "or 0.15mm

we again an another measure elsewhere and you get 0.15 mm

A final place still another 0.15 mm!

We have a difference of 0.03 mm between the different measure ... the maximum deviation allowed is 0.05 mm or 0.002 "

So it's all good! !!!!

If it was not the case ...

It would have taken off the bearing and move the shim (with the DIY extractor) ... so it would fit well...

If we move a shim thickness of 0.12 mm from one side to the other side of differential will move the backlash of 0.07 mm ...

It's not over ...

We must control the runout the ring / differential cage ...
To do this you install the gauge comparator as follows ...

We set to zero the comparator dial and the differential is rotated with the pinion gear ...
We do a complete lap!

The gap must not exceed 0.15mm in ABSOLUTE ... they're not alone: we are at 0.05mm max!
Another good news ...!!

If it did not happen ... you can play on the bolts of the ringto try to get this gap..
If it is really too hard ... we need to change the differential cage!

Ah! currently my favorite!
Where I'll let the artist speak in me:

The painting!!

So it paint at part of the ring...

then we rotate the ring until the pinion gear ...

and here's the result:

The "halo" is centered ... it's all good!

stgil is offline  
post #15 of 44 Old 11-05-2010, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: FRANCE
Posts: 664
CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART XI

The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART X...

Go! we clean it all and it continues!

is unscrewed for the last time the screw caps bearings ...

We lubricate with oil (if not already) the 2 differential bearings ...

It replaces the bearing screw by NEW and put LOCTITE 243 on thread

That is tightened to the torque wrench to 55 Nm (sorry. .. I forgot the picture) ...

It is full (only one extra: remember that the halves axles are not installed!)

The shaft is rotated to coat everyone and we took the opportunity to ensure that the seal lip of the nose bridge is not leaking ...

Few fresh ingredients more ...

- 10 new bolts housing ref: 649454)
- An O-ring (ref: 8120360)
- The dope Loctite 'RTV Black'

We put joint compound on the edge of the casing by ensuring that properin advance !!...

It installs the seal and then another layer of joint compound that I forgot to photograph ...

and you install the case cover and its label designation ..

It installs 10 new the cover screws are tightened to 30 Nm in the following sequence ...

And a moment filled with emotion ... my first bag containing parts from the trash ...
I have a tear in his eye ... sniff!

And voila!

The setting of the Differential Dana 30 is finished!

See you (hopefully) in new adventures ...

The next ... This will trim the DANA 30 ...

Meanwhile ...


Rest assured: it was empty! if I celebrate the end of a project at the Don Perignon ...

What will it be at the end of the restoration ...
In addition, I do not like champagne ... Spread the word!
__________________________________________________ _________________________________

Financial Results (requested by my Department of Finance (my wife))

86.99 ... 8126497 .... DIFFERENTIAL GEAR SET
342.99 .. 8134385 .....Ring & Pinion Kit ....
2.99 .... 8121781 .... INNER AXLE SHAFT AXLE
2.99 .... 801367 ..... INPUT OR OUTPUT SHIFT NUT
0.99 .... 1791576 .... PINION WASHER
3.99 .... 998092 ..... PINION SEAL
1.99 .... 636566 ..... OUTER SLINGER
19.99 ... 8124052.... OUTER PINION BEARING SET
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
17.99.... 8126503 .... PINION SHIM SET
17.99.... 8126503 .... PINION SHIM SET
23.99.... 8126499 .... INNER PINION BEARING KIT
2.99..... 3893982 .... INNER SLINGER
34.99.... 8126500 .... SIDE BEARING SET
29.99... 8126506 .... SHIM CARRIER SET
29.99... 8126506 .... SHIM CARRIER SET
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
3.99 .... 8120360 .... DIFFERENTIAL COVER GASKET

679.58 dollars total

and 10 hours of labor ...

Ah! The icing on the cake ...
__________________________________________________ _______________
Maintenance of DANA 30 Axle

We met the beast with : 1.4 liter of oil API GL5-SAE80W90

Since almost everything is new in it, it will drain to 2000 miles ..

Then ...

While the 3000 miles it is the level ...

While the 25000 miles OR every 2 years: one drain!
(If it is a heavy duty all the 12000 miles OR 1 years)
Finally, if not used (it will not?) it is recommended to switch it at least once a month ...
a short distance ... (1-2 miles) that aims to the maintenance of the different joints so they do not stick ...

Asta la vista!

Say good bye "MC":

Mister JJJH

Last edited by stgil; 11-05-2010 at 03:26 AM.
stgil is offline  

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