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stgil 10-28-2010 12:29 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART I
 
Hello Guys!,

I offer you a recipe for a successful DANA 30 total rebuilding.

Sorry for my english ... it's not my first language


So! For the DANA 30 recipe ... you will need:

A Dana 30 (30-40 Kg) well pickled & painted, dry and free of dirt and totally ripped ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020917.jpg

First we will deal with the stuffing:

I-Setting up differential with its ring and its satellites ...


Preparation Time: 10 minutes

As utensils, you will need:

- From oil Bridge API GL-5 SAE 80W
- Clean gloves
- Screwdriver
- A mallet (I had a mallet for Valentine's Day (how? There a message?), It is called "MC"
- Torque wrench with a socket 9 / 16 inches
- 2 sets of shims measures

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020918.jpg

As ingredients:
- A differential cage defatted with petrol

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020919.jpg


- A differential gear set kit (ref 8126497)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020920.jpg

- A ring and the tree of attack that will not be used for the time ratio of 4.56 (ref 8134385)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020921.jpg


Good! here we go!


First, it will have to work in a clean environment (up to avoid dirt, steel chips, etc. ... the compressed air is our friend ...)


And we will start to be greased with oil all the places that will receive the parts in the cage

The gear of the half axles shafts ...The Brush must be absolutely clear of dirt!!!!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020922.jpg

The satellite gears ... the hole axis of satellite ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020923.jpg

We grease the gears of such halves axles...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020924.jpg

and their friction washers (both sides) that are placed on the pinion

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020925.jpg

And installs it in the cage ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020926.jpg

Like the other side ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020927.jpg


And is subjected to oiling the gears and their retainers ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020928.jpg

So there, there is a subtlety for the installation, you must put a sprocket on one side of the cage ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020929.jpg

The other on the other side ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020930.jpg

Is pressed with a finger muscles on one side ... Taaddaaa and the other gear is set up too!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020931.jpg

We grease the axis of satellite ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020932.jpg

that is put in place (do not like me ... note the position of the pin hole to put in a good way ...)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020933.jpg

Warning! must be put in place the cups running around with what you fall into the hands ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020934.jpg

When the pin is inserted ... just put the pin with the help of my buddy "MC" at the beginning ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020935.jpg

and end with the screwdriver and the "MC" ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020936.jpg

To be continued... (I'm limited to using 20 images per post... and there is ~200 pics... so stay connected!!!)

Mister JJJH

stgil 10-28-2010 12:54 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART II
 
This story take place after ...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuilt and Setup PART I

....

You hit a small cage to blow the place up and down is measured with two sets of shims between the thickness
the cage and the gables of the half shafts ... phew! : 0.10mm! to 0.15mm, it would have had to change the cage ... (Do not panic!
You can find it anyway! ref. 8126495 compatible ratio 4.09 4.56)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020937.jpg

Well, now, we will crown his majesty the cage ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020938.jpg

We hold the screw holes ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020939.jpg

and we put up the 10 bolts of NEW 9 / 16 "LOOSELY!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020940.jpg

When the 10 bolts are installed, the cage is mounted on a vice GENTLY with wooden blocks and boards and is tightened
75 Nm with the torque wrench the bolts 10 the following sequence ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020941.jpg

Voila! the differential is back!

I have not yet recovered the ball, it's normal, it will happen when will the "spike" in the differential DANA 30

Just prior to cram ...

There is a small trim to prepare ...

Preparation Time: 10 minutes ...

Utensils:

- From the deck oil API GL-5 SAE 80W
- The DIY tool for setting up joint
(I think I slightly exaggerated the thickness ... but I did not want me to have 2 times))


- Clean gloves (sorry I was wearing!)



Ingredients:

2 seals , prefer those raised outdoors in Toledo, OH (ref. 8121781)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030113.jpg

This ensures that the machined parts DANA 30 which will receive the seals are CLEAN and are copiously oil ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030114.jpg

we install the gasket Ooops: I have my hand that forked!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030115.jpg

So we install the gasket in the right direction ... and we do the same on the other side ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030117.jpg

and it sets up the tool ... TAKING CARE TO NOT DAMAGING THE EDGES OF JOINTS IN RUBBER!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030116.jpg

We center the tool and ensures that the two joints are in place ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030118.jpg

And you shake ... you will hear two "clicks" features when joints fit completely into the tube ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030119.jpg

And here is the result ... and the first...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030120.jpg

and the second...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030121.jpg

Finished work on the housing and ...

The next step is TADDAAAA! ...

II-Setting the Differential ...

A short theoretical course required ... Sorry ...
Good! sit at the bottom (near the radiator) is gone!

In the setting of a bridge ... there are 3 importants elements:

The pinion depth
The preload pinion
-The backlash

The pinion depth:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1020813.jpg

This is the distance between the head of the pinion gear and the center of the ring (see figure below).
For Dana 30 is the theoretical value: 57.15 mm with a tolerance or - 0.05 mm,
our English speaking friends = 2.250 inches 0.002 inches tolerance. This theoretical value varies with
figures reported on the pinion (We'll see during our practice session).



This distance is "set" by a set of spacers located between the axle housing and the bearing cage
shaft lower attack ... (see figure below)

Preload:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1020814.jpg

The torque (angular force) needed to begin rotating the shaft to attack without the crown of the differential.
For the Dana 30 it must be between 1 and 2 Nm with old bearings and 2 and 5 Nm with NEW
bearings by MR 252 (FSM 84-86 CJ) (MR 239 and the careful maintenance manual DANA 30 does not make this difference. We must
also say that the maintenance manual DANA 30 calls for a change of bearings when replacing
attack tree / wreath))

This adjustment is done by adding more or fewer shims between the pinion (chute provided for this purpose) and turnover
higher (see chart below)

Go! Do not fall asleep! It's almost over!

The backlash:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1020815.jpg

This is the game that is seen with a comparator when the LOCK and pinion that is rotated
the crown ... The value is set through the shims located between the 2 bearings in the cage of the differential
(See figure below)

At a DANA 30 this value should be between 0.12 mm and 0.25 mm (0.005 - 0.010 inches)

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/reglag11.jpg


From theory to practice ...

The first thing we will solve is the distance tapered ...

The new kit comes paired differential ... ie a technician checked the distance and backlash conical
optimum for a pair Crown / Tree Attack ...

The distance is engraved on the tapered shaft of attack ... by 2267 "or 57.58mm

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1030012.jpg

The backlash on the ring... by 0.006 "

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1030013.jpg

To be continued...

Mister JJJH

stgil 10-28-2010 01:21 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART III
 
This story take place after ...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuilt and Setup PART II

So? how do you measure the thickness of shim required? I'll avoid the obscurantism with
Tables 2 dimensional ... I understand me ...


Example... Is better:

What we need is the distance of the pinion gear (which is also etched, but in the "old school" method)...
The 4 means 4 / 1000 of an inch compared to the theoretical distance 2.250 "or 2.254" (57.25mm)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030032.jpg

here ... A short summary (with colors is even better!)

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/calcul11.jpg

A difference of 0.33mm (57.58-57.25 = 0.33mm (0.013 ")) between the former and less of the new gear. To achieve
this new distance conical at first, and assuming that the thickness of shim set the former
pinion was correct, just the measure (micrometer / Palmer) and remove 0.33 mm for the new thickness
Bilge necessary ...
Everybody understand??

Normally (although I did my job), it will really simplify the practice session ...

In practice ...
We measure the shims (own property) including the deflector (which made the war) to old pinion ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030135.jpg

with a Palmer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030136.jpg

and we get the ...

2 shims 0.08mm
2 shims 0.27mm
A deflector attached to a total of 0.52mm 1.22mm

The new shims come in 0.08 mm, 0.12mm, 0.27mm (measured at Palmer) Hmm ... You tell me: these weird values ...
But if it goes into the thumb, the closest values are respectively: 0.003 "0.005" 0.01 "which is much more" normal ":

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030137.jpg

So the old shims are in inches ALSO:
either:
2 shims 0.003 "
2 holds 0.01 "
A deflector attached to 0.02 ". What makes us a thickness of 1.17mm or 0046"
A small picture to summarize all that ...:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1030113.jpg

You already notice a difference of 0.05 mm (1.22mm-1.17mm) between the measured and theoretical value ... This gap
justifies the imprecision of the measure /-0.01mm and the number of measurements made (5 measurements = 4 wedges deflector) ...
which is QUITE NORMAL.

But ... we reached the tolerable deviation + / - 0.05mm of the pinion depth ! SO be careful!

Good! Now, we must pass of 0.046 " to 0.033" (-0.013 " either -0.33mm) ... easy!:

A shim of 0.01 "
a shim of 0.003 " +
and a deflector shim 0.02! = 0.033 "(0.84mm) making an air gap of 0.33mm (1.17mm-0.84mm)

It will be our first attempt with these shims...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030139.jpg

But it would be too good that it works the first time!

Preparation of setting backlash:

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Utensils:
-A comparator and his magnetic base
-A ratchet and socket 5 / 8 "
-2 Templates bearing differentials ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030033.jpg

Ingredients:
-2 Hats of their cages and screws (I remind you that had differentiated during disassembly)
-1 Of differential cage with satellite and its ring (the previous preparation).

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030034.jpg

IMPORTANT: This must be done as the pinion and calibrated IS NOT INSTALLED!
It allows to estimate the size of shims needed to the backlash.

It installs the fake bearings on the differential rate chamfer inwards ... and the first who told my wife I did it on the kitchen table, I do talk to him no more ... at the same time, this is not a recipe?

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030035.jpg

I'll let you do the other side ... ditto

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030036.jpg

and one is in the garage to put our cage in the right direction in the DANA 30 ...
http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030126.jpg

We hold the fakes bearings right and left into the DANA 30

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030127.jpg

It installs caps differential (following their initial positions) with their screws are tightened and gently with ratcheting it does not move ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030128.jpg

at all ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1030114.jpg

It installs the magnetic base on the DANA 30 housing ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030130.jpg

It identifies a bolt ring gear with tipex, marker, etc. ...
It is important for the following measure of backlash ...
It asks the comparator probe as perpendicular as possible
and tightens the base ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030131.jpg

We hold it firmly on the left the differential ... and it resets the comparator ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030133.jpg

and is doing well right differential ... and note the measurement displayed by the comparator ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030134.jpg

And we repeat this operation (left -> reset (if necessary) -> right -> Read, and so on ...)
several times to be certain that the measure is the same.If slightly fluctuating, (it was not my case)
is to average ...

and we keep this value will be installed later when we setup the pinion ...

Mine is: 1.99 mm

to be continued... :drool:

stgil 10-28-2010 01:53 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IV
 
The story take place after

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuilt and Setup PART III...

Setting up Pinion Depth / Preload:

Preparation Time: 2 hours (1 hour for pinion depth , 1 hour for the preload
always with the right tools ... )

you will need:

Utensils:

- A torque wrench up 400N.m
- Templates of bearings and shaft
- A socket 1 "1 / 8
- A socket 5 / 8 "ratchet and
- 2 "washers" special for the setup of bearing cages
- An immobilizer tree attack
- A threaded rod with washers and nuts
- My friend "MC"
- The cone which was removed from the on old inner bearing of the pinion
(You will prepare the following recipe)
- Oil bridge API GL-5 SAE 80W
- A bearing puller
- A mystery object .... haha

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030214.jpg


- Press

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030215.jpg

two pipes

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030633.jpg

- A set of shims measurement

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030634.jpg

Fresh ingredients from left to right:

-A nut (ref 801367)
-A washer (ref 1791576)
-A lip seal (ref 998092N)
WARNING: the joint changes according to year of construction and type of flange used!
-A deflector outer seal (ref 636566)
- A outer bearing TIMKEN 02872 (body) / 02820 (cage / bowl) (ref 8124052)
-Some spoilers (I took me 10 () you'll understand why ) (ref 934937)
-Shims for setting pinion depth and preload (ref 8126503)
-An inner bearing TIMKEN HM88649 (body) / HM88610 (cage / bowl) (ref 8126499)
- A baffle Inner Seal (ref 3893982)
And of course, an pinion (with the kit manufacturer ref 8134385)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030021.jpg

I did not put the yoke because I keep mine in good condition

If you must change it still exists!
WARNING! there are different references depending on the year of construction and goes together with the outer seal !

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030022.jpg

It should also caps their cages and differential screws (always different, I know I am rehashing) ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030216.jpg


Go! hop hop hop!

Oh! I know you'll tell me ... Where it leaves the body bearing it we never spoke?? huh??
there ... the old pinion inner bearing ... being installed in the press with tears rolling down ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030217.jpg

Is pressed ... and recovering bearing ... deflector has been destroyed ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030218.jpg

It rips first the bearing with a saw ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030219.jpg

Keep children at these unbearable images ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030220.jpg

Then it completes the grinder ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030221.jpg

Remains to deburr and clean (clear the chip) and then finally put something in
the gap for the ring is slightly away ... Here a piece of one of my files ...
it was not exactly what I intended to do ... but it also works by "accident" ...
All this to allow insertion of the new bearing "cleanly" and not be
confuse... when trying to remove the tool ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030222.jpg

Now we take the new pinion and the deflector is installed ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030223.jpg

We install the inner bearing in the right direction! ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030224.jpg

It installs the body bearing the old roll in the other direction ... This aims
avoid "bully" the new bearing when it is inserted ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030225.jpg

Then installs itself on the whole the press as follows ...
We put a little oil to allow easier insertion ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030226.jpg

We press until the deflector no longer move!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030227.jpg

And releases the pinion shaft gently ...
to install it as follows to remove the old body bearing easily
and this is the first bearing is installed!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030228.jpg

We comes to outer DANA housing to install the cage bearing inner / outer ...
So first , it will lubricate the housing of the bearing cage outside ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030229.jpg


To be continued...

Mister JJJH

stgil 10-29-2010 03:33 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART V
 
this story takes place after:

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IV


and inside ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030230.jpg

It installs by hand the bearing cage outside ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030231.jpg

We will then start the other side to install the inner bearing cage and then puts it back in place

deflector and the holds that we calculated in our previous adventures (see chapter "practice ")...
About shims ... One of my friends says :
" When you will make the final pitch, remember to put the shims of smaller thickness in the middle. This is important
because it avoids the deformation of small shims dynamic use of the bridge at its usual deformation and calculated and
to settle."



I respected this rule by placing the baffle 0.02 ", the shim of 0.003" and finally the shim of 0.01 "...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030232.jpg

then sets up the bearing cage bearing inside ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030233.jpg

72mm Washer is installed on the interior side with threaded rod. Be carefull: DO NOT to damage the deflector ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030234.jpg

We install washer and nut ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030311.jpg

We do the same thing the other side ... nut and 73mm washer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030312.jpg

It installs a wrench of the inner side ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030313.jpg

and is tightened with the outer wrench ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030314.jpg

A quick "MC" of 2 sides to be sure it's tight ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030315.jpg

we remove the threaded rod and washers. Be carreful about the deflector!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030316.jpg

And here it is on the outside ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030317.jpg

And the interior side ensures that the deflector does not move ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030318.jpg

Now we take the pinion it installs in the housing

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030319.jpg

Voila!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030320.jpg

and returns it to the other side to install some stuff...
First the outer bearing ...
NB: This is quite normal that I did not put the preload shims ... we take care of the distance conical first!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030321.jpg

The deflector ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030322.jpg

The Yoke...
NB: Always the same I have not installed the seal because you can install it once

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030324.jpg

Yoke washer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030325.jpg

And OLD NUT (of the old pinion) ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030326.jpg

To be continued...

stgil 10-29-2010 04:35 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VI
 
this story takes place after:

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART V...


We install the immobilizer on the yoke of pinion ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030327.jpg

And you begin to tighten the nut ... so we obtain a preload between 1 to 2 Nm

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030328.jpg

Since it is extremely difficult to find a direct reading torque wrench for an individual (I toured all of the garages
region ... not Found ... ... But I found a garage who kindly lent me his torque wrench 1-9 Nm:
to show you we can do without it and show you a method that is as accurate and cheap!

I will use the buddy Newton ... no... it's not the apple... but gravity ...

A tiny hint of physics courses ... get out your notebooks ...

Everyone remembers the formula:

P = Mg

Where:
P is the weight (force) of an object expressed in Newtons (N)
M is the mass of an object in kilograms (kg)
g is the gravitational constant Terrestrial 9.8 in N / kg

Our friends the Martians will make the necessary correction to 3.7 and
our selenite neighbor to 1.7

I remind you, that they have... the first extraterrestrial Jeep !!!:

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/jeep_m10.jpg

End of the joke...

Preload must be in the range 2-5 Nm (new bearings as I remember)
It's like putting a meter from the axis (the axis connected to a theoretically
massless rod) between 204g (2 * 9.8) and 510g (5 * 9.8) so that the axis starts to turn ...
A small diagram to fix the ideas ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/couple11.jpg

I'm going to use gravity to make this measurement ...
except I'm not going to put the axis at 1m (too much trouble (taking into account the mass of the rod (goodbye accuracy) etc ...)...
how do I do ...
Ben was a superb rod ... balanced (zero mass) and all that ...: our yoke...

But it has a radius of 4.13 cm (0.0413 m) ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030140.jpg

Never mind! Applying a simple rule of 3 and it's all good!
So:
0.0413m should be applied to a mass of between 4.94 kg (0.204/0.0413) and 12.35 kg (0.510/0.413)

Easy! Good!
That is all ... but how do we do in practice ... Already the shaft axis of attack should be parallel to the ground:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1030311.jpg

You are not agree ? Ok! we will apply it in practice!

In our present case (I remind you that regulates the pinion depth), we must tighten the nut so as to obtain a preload between 1 and 2N.m

First, since you not believe me ... we will measure it with the wrench of the garage workshop...

I managed (by tightening the nut with a normal wrench) for a value of 1.5 Nm (The torque wrench "triggers" to 1.5 Nm.
At 1.6 Nm the torque wrench turn the pinion without triggering ) That's what we want !!!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030436.jpg

And applying the previous formula but this time between 1 and 2 Nm.
I've done so far 5 Nm with a step of 0.5 Nm (the weight to get the figures are completely right) ... I let them)?? :D

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030437.jpg

Those who want the little formula excel give me a PM ...

Well now there's more to the mystery object out ah! ah!

And yes! a load cell (same for fishing!) with memory to 7 $

So:
1 - is pulled perpendicularly to the ground ...
2 - as soon as the shaft begins to rotate, it stops pulling
3 - was the maximum value stored by the ruler: in this case at 3.7 kg or 1.5 Nm at 0.0413m! it works!
and it's super accurate!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030438.jpg

That's the FRENCH TOUCH !

Now ... you can have a direct reading torque wrench ... (But much less funny and expensive )

Good! but back on topic! namely the pinion depth:

Now that the preload is 1.5 Nm, we go back to the housing to install
the fake bearing and the central rod ... (BE CAREFUL WITH THE SEALS

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030439.jpg

It installs the differential caps (always differentiated) and we tight them ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030440.jpg

And we install, the tool to measure the pinion depth, on the top one the pinion, ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030441.jpg

And it puts two shims 0.50 mm shims to allow the comparator to go over the rod...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030442.jpg

It installs the gauge on the block with the 2 shims of 0.50mm above ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030443.jpg

It is zero on the dial ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030444.jpg

When it's all done ... we scoop the comparator on the rod and storing the
highest value! in my case it is-0.23mm.
You need to make several readings to make sure this value!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030445.jpg

What does it mean this?

Well we have:
57.15 mm (standard pinion depth distance)
+ 1.00 mm (2 shimm of 0.50mm)
- 0.23 mm (measured value with the comparator)
57.92 mm (current pinion depth)

The pinion depth desired is: 57.58 mm

So it was all wrong: The pinion depth is TOO big : it must be reduced!
To do this, we must Increasing the thickness of shims

0.84 mm (thickness when measuring stalls)
+0.34 mm (Delta necessary: (57.92-57.58))
1.18 mm

So we need a thick shims of 1.18 mm!

who will leave with my shims 0,003", 0,005", 0.01 "and baffle shim 0.02 " as follows:

0.02 "(spoiler attached)
+ 0.006 "(2 x 0.003")
0.02 (2 x 0.01 ")
0.046 " ie ~ 1.17 mm, which is not too bad, compared to 1.18mm

So at work ... We must dismantle the pinion ... we remove the nut and washer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030446.jpg

The yoke (you need to go nicely with "MC")...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030447.jpg

The deflector ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030448.jpg

To be continued...

Mister JJJH...

243 10-29-2010 05:05 AM

Outstanding!!!!!!!!!!

I need to read it tonight after work.

Thanks :thumbsup:

BioTex 10-29-2010 05:58 AM

Mister JJJ,
Thanks for sharing this with us. I wish it were easier to read (more English friendly), but I'll definately put this thread to good use.
Thanks!:cheers2:

keith460 10-29-2010 06:06 AM

Yes, I agree. Stgil is basically showing how Ring and Pinion gear sets are installed "Professionally" with the setup tools and jigs that the average person will not have in their toolbox unfortunately.

Most of the guys reading through this post will struggle with the translation from French to English as it is more like European English that uses names on certain items not known in the American English language. I know this from dealing with manuals on equipment made in Europe that are translated into English and what they call certain pieces of hardware that makes no sense to us Yanks. One of my many jobs at work is to rewrite technical manuals to American English so the average Joe can understand.

But still, it is an excellent write up just the same. One must read and figure out what words mean what in the photos posted but you will get it sooner or later. I know I couldn't write this in French, that's for sure!

stgil 10-29-2010 06:10 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VII
 
Thanks guys!!!

I promise to do more "English Friendly" at the end of the post!!!!

But back to the topic...

The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VI...

And knock (with "MC") on the pinion...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030450.jpg

To fall CARRREEEEFFFUULLLY the outer bearing, beware not to damage the deflector when knocking the pinion gear!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030449.jpg


It removes the pinion (always BE CAREFULL with the deflector) ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030319.jpg

And we return to the other side with the 73mm washer and 50mm pipe and "MC" to drop the cage properly the innner bearing cage...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030510.jpg

and voila! the inner bearing is ok but the deflector shim is totaly destroyed... Now you understand why I took 10!!!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030511.jpg

Once again we oil again ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030512.jpg

Well we set a NEW deflector

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030513.jpg

the 4 shims previously calculated (always placed on the principle than before !)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030514.jpg

If you think I'm going to hit me again full installation of the pinion ... You shove your fingers in eye to the elbow !!!!!!!!!

... I'll let you do ... you're the big boys
.
.
.
.
.
And we go directly to measure the pinion depth ...
This time we set a 0.50mm shim above the standard distance pinion detph... always to allow comparator go over the rod ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030515.jpg

We again compare the measure with the same method as before ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030516.jpg

and we obtain a measure of -0.10 mm!

Meaning:

57.15 mm (regular pinion depth)
+0.50 mm (1 wedge 0.50)
- 0.10 mm (measured value to the comparator)
57.55 [ mm (pinion depth current measure)

The pinion depth desired is: 57.58 mm

So it is in -3/100 of a millimeter! which is within the tolerance! +/- 0.05 mm! (+/- 0.002 ")

Anyway I have no shims less than 8/100mm shims (0.003 "), if I add one I'd be" less good "
The alternative would be to replace one of the blocks 0.01 "and replace them with shims of 0.005" and 0.003 "to slightly
increase the thickness ... bad luck ... there is not enough shims to make this kind of manipulation ...

So ... I'll stop there! Note that I'm good (I'm within the tolerances!)

Well you know what? the pinion depth it's over!

So we will address ...

The preload

The preload shim kit comes in 4 sizes: 0.03 "0.01", 0.005 ", 0.003"

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030610.jpg

Good! how you doing?

First we remove the pinion that we have set lovingly ...

But do you know by now ... So

We disassembled the bolt and washer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030446.jpg

The yoke ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030447.jpg

outer deflector ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030448.jpg

outer bearing (still with "MC ")...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030449.jpg

STOP! and there is inserted the shims ... then I try with 0.06" ... (2 shims of 0.03 ")

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030630.jpg

it reinstalls the outer bearing ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030321.jpg

The outer deflector ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030322.jpg

yoke...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030324.jpg

yoke washer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030325.jpg

243 10-29-2010 06:25 AM

English friendly or not, I know from experience it takes time and slows the whole process down taking photos, editing and posting. Pictures are worth a 1000 words!

stgil 10-29-2010 07:09 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VIII
 
The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VII...


and the OLD locknut or regular nut ! ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030326.jpg

we install the DIY immobilizer on the pinion, and is tightened with the KILLER torque wrench (thank you DAD! )
up to 352 Nm (350 Nm will win eh? ), with steps of 50 Nm (50-100-150-200-250-300-350)

And you have a small glimpse into the extreme conditions in which I work ...

Definitely a garage of 20 square meters to work ... is not much!

If you can talk to my wife ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030626.jpg

at each step of 50 Nm, you dismount the immobilizer of pinion and measure the preload with the load cell:

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030627.jpg

Good! in our case it FAIL: at 100 Nm of torque we are already at 12 kg! of preload (++++5Nm!!)
We stop everything to avoid killing the bearings ...
We dismantles the pinion axle ... (I'll let you do eh!)

And this time we try with 0.07 shims ... (2 shims 0.03 " and one of 0.01")

Back in...

... Bearing, deflector, bridle, washer, bolt, tighting, preload test ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/precon11.jpg

And there ... ben ... we reached the 352 Nm of torque and preload reached the 500 grams!! (Less than one Nm !)

It's still false so we will try this time 0.065 "...
We dismantle all ... shims 0,065 this time (2 shims 0.03 "and a shim of 0.005")

and we go back ...

... Bearing, deflector, bridle, washer, bolt, tighting, preload test ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/precon11.jpg

and there ... we reached the 352 Nm (350 Nm) torque with a preload to 9 kg (just over 3.5 Nm) ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030627.jpg


A few strokes of "MC" (GENTLY Anyway eh! ) on the pinion axle ... (to set definitively the preload)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030628.jpg

and we measure again the preload ... it lost 500g (8.5 kg or 3.5 Nm) is still good! Yeeeeeppeeee

We have a little control to be done to be sure :...

We measure again the pinion depth ...


http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030629.jpg

Normally the pinion depth will may not vary or very little ...
This is my case: it has lost only two hundredths -0.08mm ...

Meaning:

57.15 mm (standard conical wedge distance)
+ 0.50 mm (1 shim of 0.50mm)
- 0.08 mm (measured value with the comparator)
57.57 mm (current pinion detph)

The pinion depth desired is: 57.58mm ... it is at 1 / 100 of a millimeter!

This is explained by adding preload spacers and tighting at 350 Nm ..
So even closer to the ideal pinion depth ! good news!

We dismantles the regular nut ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030635.jpg

yoke washer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030636.jpg

The yoke with a little help of "MC" ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030637.jpg

You turn the axle so that "the nose" is in the air and we apply the LOCTITE 5923 ...
Be SURE that the machined part that will receive the seal ring is clean ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030710.jpg

voila ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030711.jpg

we set the outer seal ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030712.jpg

with pipe of 50mm diameter and 72mm thick washer ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030713.jpg

A few shots of "MC" ... I know: I'll have to redo his makeup and it is fuzzy... sorry....

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030715.jpg

we oil outer seal ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030716.jpg

It installs the yoke (directly with the DIY immobilizer why not ...)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030717.jpg

It installs the NEW washer...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030718.jpg

and finally the NEW nut (we see it is slightly oval) ... (Warning: One use Only!)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030719.jpg

To be continued...

Mister JJJH...

stgil 11-03-2010 01:56 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IX
 
The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART VIII



Implementation of the nut so ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030720.jpg

and tightening at 285 N.m. .. (Always the same ... we go in steps ... 50-100-150-200-250-285)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030721.jpg

Some small strokes of "MC" on axle top...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030722.jpg

and we control the last time the preload: 8 Kg slightly less than 3.5 Nm:
it's all good!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030723.jpg

I also want to check one last time as the pinion depth: this has not changed!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030724.jpg

One last important detail regarding the oil seal ...
It is noted that the pinion yoke protects the rubber seal ... hence importance to choose the right oil seal according to his yoke...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030725.jpg


And well you know what?

WE HAVE FINISHED THE PINION DEPTH TO PRELOAD !!!!

III-Adjusting backlash


DURATION: 1 hour

Ingredients:

The NEW ONES:
A kit-bearing differential 2x Koyo LM501349-N (body) / LM501314-N (cage / bowl) (ref : 8126500)
- kit- shims bearings (ref : 8126506)
- Loctite 243 (Loctite 'normal', replacing the Loctite 'FRENETANCH')
-4 Screws NEW for the differential level (ref: 179890)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030638.jpg

The "OLD" ONES ... :
-2 bearing caps (I remind you (one more time) that had differentiated during disassembly
-1 Of differential cage with satellite and its ring (the previously in the preparation)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030034.jpg

utensils
A comparator-and magnetic base
-A ratchet and socket 5 / 8 "
-2 fake bearing differentials ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030033.jpg

- The body bearing of the old bearing differential
(He suffered the same treatment as that of the tree except that attack does not cut it ..: back:.)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030810.jpg

- a DIY spreader

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030740.jpg

- The bearing DIY puller ... if it is going bad ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030741.jpg


The first thing to do ... is to measure the side play ... like last time ...


So ... Going back fake bearing ...
It's the same than before... except that now there is the pinion gear...
SO IMPORTANT: When installing the ring try to not knock the pinion gear
and the ring against one another !!!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030726.jpg

It installs the bearings caps in place and the comparator (the vertical as possible) against the bolt we identified previously...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030727.jpg

We hold the zero of the comparator by pulling the ring to you ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030728.jpg

then you push the ringin the opposite direction ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030729.jpg

Is repeated several times so far it is consistent ...

Here we get 1.38 mm ....

Shims are supplied in the differentials 0.03 ", 0.01", 0.005 "and 0.003" ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030640.jpg


Since it uses the method of the "DANA 30 Maintenance Manual"
(>>>HERE<<< it is)
Here's how it goes this:

We have:
lateral play WITHOUT pinion gear of 1.99 mm (see previous episode)
lateral play WITH pinion gear of 1.38 mm

- The thickness of the shims ring side will therefore:

1.38 is 0,054"

- The thickness of shims of the opposite side will:

0.61 mm (1.99-1.138) which was added a preload of .38 mm (0.015")

or Total 0.99mm or (0.039")


We decompose the blocks as follows:
side crown 1x 0.03 "2x 0.01" 0.005 "or 0.055" ... (Value closest to 0.54 ")
side 1x 0.03 "3x 0.009" ... or 0.039 "

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030732.jpg

The theory is over... Cool stuff! we go to practice! ... :

It installs 0.055 shims on the ring side...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030733.jpg


we oil differiential cage to permit insertion of the bearing easier ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030735.jpg

To be continued...


Mister JJJH

stgil 11-04-2010 09:53 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART X
 
The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART IX...


It installs the new bearing ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030734.jpg

it then installs the body of the old bearing case to avoid killing the new bearing during insertion ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030736.jpg

Then the "puck" of 72 mm and pressed ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030737.jpg

We go to the other side of the differential to set the 0.039" shims

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030738.jpg

We lubricated the machined part, and we install the new bearing, the cage body of the old bearing, the "puck" is pressed and this is the result ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030739.jpg

Good! It comes near the end of this recipe ...
I therefore propose to use the spreader...

We install the spreader...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030811.jpg

Then comparator this way ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030812.jpg

and it spreads ... IMPORTANT: do not exceed 0.50mm! I got stopped at 0.40 mm is more than enough ... !

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030813.jpg


We install the differential cage with the cups of bearings ...
CARREEFFUUULLLYY do not hurt the pinion ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030814.jpg

We completely install the differential knocking alternately left center right
with "MC" and a wood block wrapped in a soft

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030815.jpg


We mount the bearings caps with the old screw ... (Always differentiated! Eh ! )

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030816.jpg

We Tighten ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030817.jpg

Spreader is removed and you install the dial comparator to measure backlash ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030818.jpg

It immobilizes the pinion gear... but with a preload of 3.5 Nm (8 kg) its not move like that .... !
It push on the ring and we set zero on the dial ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030820.jpg

we pull and we measure ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030821.jpg

0.12 mm ... not bad
I remind you that the backlash should be between 0.12mm and 0.25 mm. is the low range but it is good ...

And as for this pair crown / tree attack it should be 0.006 "or 0.15mm

we again an another measure elsewhere and you get 0.15 mm

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030822.jpg

A final place still another 0.15 mm!

We have a difference of 0.03 mm between the different measure ... the maximum deviation allowed is 0.05 mm or 0.002 "

So it's all good! !!!!

If it was not the case ...

It would have taken off the bearing and move the shim (with the DIY extractor) ... so it would fit well...

If we move a shim thickness of 0.12 mm from one side to the other side of differential will move the backlash of 0.07 mm ...

It's not over ...

We must control the runout the ring / differential cage ...
To do this you install the gauge comparator as follows ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030823.jpg

We set to zero the comparator dial and the differential is rotated with the pinion gear ...
We do a complete lap!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030824.jpg

The gap must not exceed 0.15mm in ABSOLUTE ... they're not alone: we are at 0.05mm max!
Another good news ...!!

If it did not happen ... you can play on the bolts of the ringto try to get this gap..
If it is really too hard ... we need to change the differential cage!

Ah! currently my favorite!
Where I'll let the artist speak in me:

The painting!!

So it paint at part of the ring...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030826.jpg

then we rotate the ring until the pinion gear ...

and here's the result:

The "halo" is centered ... it's all good!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030827.jpg

stgil 11-05-2010 02:21 AM

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART XI
 
The story takes place after...

CJ7 DANA 30 Full Rebuild and Setup PART X...

Go! we clean it all and it continues!

is unscrewed for the last time the screw caps bearings ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030828.jpg

We lubricate with oil (if not already) the 2 differential bearings ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030829.jpg


It replaces the bearing screw by NEW and put LOCTITE 243 on thread

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030830.jpg

That is tightened to the torque wrench to 55 Nm (sorry. .. I forgot the picture) ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030831.jpg

It is full (only one extra: remember that the halves axles are not installed!)

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030832.jpg

The shaft is rotated to coat everyone and we took the opportunity to ensure that the seal lip of the nose bridge is not leaking ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030833.jpg

Few fresh ingredients more ...

- 10 new bolts housing ref: 649454)
- An O-ring (ref: 8120360)
- The dope Loctite 'RTV Black'

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030834.jpg

We put joint compound on the edge of the casing by ensuring that properin advance !!...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030835.jpg

It installs the seal and then another layer of joint compound that I forgot to photograph ...

and you install the case cover and its label designation ..

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030836.jpg

It installs 10 new the cover screws are tightened to 30 Nm in the following sequence ...

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030837.jpg

And a moment filled with emotion ... my first bag containing parts from the trash ...
I have a tear in his eye ... sniff!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030838.jpg


And voila!

The setting of the Differential Dana 30 is finished!

See you (hopefully) in new adventures ...

The next ... This will trim the DANA 30 ...

Meanwhile ...

Champagne!

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1030839.jpg

Rest assured: it was empty! if I celebrate the end of a project at the Don Perignon ...

What will it be at the end of the restoration ...
In addition, I do not like champagne ... Spread the word!
__________________________________________________ _________________________________

Financial Results (requested by my Department of Finance (my wife))

Cost______réf__________Name
86.99 ... 8126497 .... DIFFERENTIAL GEAR SET
342.99 .. 8134385 .....Ring & Pinion Kit ....
2.99 .... 8121781 .... INNER AXLE SHAFT AXLE
2.99 .... 801367 ..... INPUT OR OUTPUT SHIFT NUT
0.99 .... 1791576 .... PINION WASHER
3.99 .... 998092 ..... PINION SEAL
1.99 .... 636566 ..... OUTER SLINGER
19.99 ... 8124052.... OUTER PINION BEARING SET
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
1.99 .... 934937 ..... OIL PINION BEARING BAFFLE
17.99.... 8126503 .... PINION SHIM SET
17.99.... 8126503 .... PINION SHIM SET
23.99.... 8126499 .... INNER PINION BEARING KIT
2.99..... 3893982 .... INNER SLINGER
34.99.... 8126500 .... SIDE BEARING SET
29.99... 8126506 .... SHIM CARRIER SET
29.99... 8126506 .... SHIM CARRIER SET
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
2.49 .... 179890 ..... HOUSING BOLT
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
1.99 .... 649454 ..... Ring Gear Bolt
3.99 .... 8120360 .... DIFFERENTIAL COVER GASKET

679.58 dollars total

and 10 hours of labor ...



Ah! The icing on the cake ...
__________________________________________________ _______________
Maintenance of DANA 30 Axle

We met the beast with : 1.4 liter of oil API GL5-SAE80W90

Since almost everything is new in it, it will drain to 2000 miles ..

Then ...

While the 3000 miles it is the level ...

While the 25000 miles OR every 2 years: one drain!
(If it is a heavy duty all the 12000 miles OR 1 years)
Finally, if not used (it will not?) it is recommended to switch it at least once a month ...
a short distance ... (1-2 miles) that aims to the maintenance of the different joints so they do not stick ...


Asta la vista!

Say good bye "MC":

http://i63.servimg.com/u/f63/14/73/92/26/p1020942.jpg

:laugh:

Mister JJJH


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