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Unread 07-02-2013, 04:56 PM   #31
KnoxButler
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It has about 2-3 threads showing, about 5/16 of an inch out. No orange or red powder.

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Unread 07-02-2013, 05:12 PM   #32
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnoxButler
It has about 2-3 threads showing, about 5/16 of an inch out. No orange or red powder.
Don't go any further you will crack the intake. They are both mailable metal. The threads will bond to each other.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 05:16 PM   #33
KnoxButler
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I loosen it up about a 1/4 a turn, it was in really tight. Its loser but tight enough i cant budge it with my hands. Im concerned about expansion.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 05:46 PM   #34
LumpyGrits
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Leave it.......
LG
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Unread 07-02-2013, 06:10 PM   #35
KnoxButler
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Its leaking coolant...
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Unread 07-02-2013, 06:26 PM   #36
KnoxButler
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I tightened it up, no leaks but im still concerned with damaging the intake when it heats up? Wrong school of thought?
Thanks for being patient and stepping me through this!
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Unread 07-02-2013, 06:42 PM   #37
Jon In Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnoxButler View Post
I tightened it up, no leaks but im still concerned with damaging the intake when it heats up? Wrong school of thought?
Thanks for being patient and stepping me through this!
Have you started the engine and let it warm up? Sometimes all you need is a 1/4 turn or less to get it right. As you replace the coolant that leaked out while you changed the CTO valve, some guys like to park with the nose uphill so the air bubbles are able to get out of the block. Kind of "burping" the cooling system. Since I don't live the foothills, I don't have any slope to use...
God Bless.
Jon In Tucson
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Unread 07-02-2013, 06:46 PM   #38
KnoxButler
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Not much leaked out, mabe 2 1/2 tbspoon.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 06:46 PM   #39
LumpyGrits
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Front wheels up on a curb, works well.
LG
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Unread 07-02-2013, 06:53 PM   #40
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My t-stat has a jigger valve to purge the air.

You were not going to hurt it leaving it as tight as you had it.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 09:04 PM   #41
KnoxButler
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Hey guys I wanted to take the time to thank you for your patience with me, iv been asking questions as I work and thus my questions have at times been vague and rushed. You guys have been awesome sticking with me! Im going to try to be more descriptive and organized with my posts!

Here is whats going on now with my Jeep:

1) After installing the CTO and all hoses to and from it in accordance with this diagram http://s58.photobucket.com/user/Bird...Mod-1.jpg.html the only difference is that I don't have a vacuum reserve canister or a sol vac and that it was connected to a ported vacuum source not a manifold (had previously been hooked up that why and was running smooth). So there was a direct line to the distributor advance. The problem arose when I revved the engine up, at which point the engine flutter that I previously had experienced began happening again...
I tired connecting the line to both ported and manifold ports on the carb., only difference is when the flutter happens, manifold vacuum makes it happen at idle AND high rpm and ported makes it happen ONLY high rpm. When I disconnect the line the whole engine smooths out high rpm and idle.
I only tested it while it was stationary revving it with my hand, I don't know if actually driving it would change anything. From what I've read the distributor advance helps when the engine is under load?
My question is should i just leave the advance alone and just cap it sense the engine seems to be running fine without it or am I going to have problems with out it? If I do need it, am I doing something wrong or should I look at getting a replacement? Also will the lack of a working advance effect emissions as I'm still trying to get my Jeep through.

2) As I said before I just finished putting in all the CTO stuff. There are two switches on the intake manifold one is a TVS for the EGR and another is a temp switch that goes to a hot air intake. When I was putting the system all together i tried to find new replacements for the two as i have doubts that the two switches still work.
My question is can I bypass the TVS and connect the CTO directly to the EGR? Also I would like to know what is the purpose of the hot air intake? Maybe help warm the engine up?

I know this was long and I appreciate those who are stuck with me. Any information, advice, anything you could tell me would be awesome!
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Unread 07-02-2013, 09:36 PM   #42
Jon In Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnoxButler View Post
Ok here is another question, after all the cto stuff is installed the engine runs rough except when i disconnect the vacuum line (ported) that goes to my distributor, then it runs very smooth. Anyone know why this would be happening and what i should do about it?
Knox,
If you disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor, is it drawing air? Are you plugging it with a pencil, golf tee, your finger?

God bless.
Jon In Tucson
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Unread 07-02-2013, 10:22 PM   #43
KnoxButler
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The vacuum line or the port on the carb? I plugged neither, do you think something could have been sucked into the carb?
I edited my last post as well, it might have some more info. that could help.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 04:47 AM   #44
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnoxButler View Post
Hey guys I wanted to take the time to thank you for your patience with me, iv been asking questions as I work and thus my questions have at times been vague and rushed. You guys have been awesome sticking with me! Im going to try to be more descriptive and organized with my posts!

Here is whats going on now with my Jeep:

1) After installing the CTO and all hoses to and from it in accordance with this diagram http://s58.photobucket.com/user/Bird...Mod-1.jpg.html the only difference is that I don't have a vacuum reserve canister or a sol vac and that it was connected to a ported vacuum source not a manifold (had previously been hooked up that why and was running smooth). So there was a direct line to the distributor advance. The problem arose when I revved the engine up, at which point the engine flutter that I previously had experienced began happening again...
I tired connecting the line to both ported and manifold ports on the carb., only difference is when the flutter happens, manifold vacuum makes it happen at idle AND high rpm and ported makes it happen ONLY high rpm. When I disconnect the line the whole engine smooths out high rpm and idle.
I only tested it while it was stationary revving it with my hand, I don't know if actually driving it would change anything. From what I've read the distributor advance helps when the engine is under load?
My question is should i just leave the advance alone and just cap it sense the engine seems to be running fine without it or am I going to have problems with out it? If I do need it, am I doing something wrong or should I look at getting a replacement? Also will the lack of a working advance effect emissions as I'm still trying to get my Jeep through.

2) As I said before I just finished putting in all the CTO stuff. There are two switches on the intake manifold one is a TVS for the EGR and another is a temp switch that goes to a hot air intake. When I was putting the system all together i tried to find new replacements for the two as i have doubts that the two switches still work.
My question is can I bypass the TVS and connect the CTO directly to the EGR? Also I would like to know what is the purpose of the hot air intake? Maybe help warm the engine up?

I know this was long and I appreciate those who are stuck with me. Any information, advice, anything you could tell me would be awesome!

1. Might be a problem with the vacuum diaphragm in the distributor. Do you have a timing light? Maybe you can see the timing jumping around or something.

Engines run more efficiently with the vacuum advance line connected.

2. Are you sure you have your terminology correct? The only SWITCHES on the intake are for the computer and Manifold heater.

A picture might help or go here: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/
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Unread 07-03-2013, 09:08 AM   #45
KnoxButler
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1) Im willing to bet that it is the timing, I can get my hands on a timing light. If it is a problem with the diaphragm would i be able to replace just the diaphragm or the whole timing advance system?

2) I didnt see anything in the page you linked to me about it, looked through the web page too. Here is a link to a photo http://www.flickr.com/photos/98174118@N08/9152622701/ the two things im talking about are the two blue small blue ports near the bottom and then the two metal ones near the center of the intake close to where it sits on the carb. both are vacuum hose connections. Hope that makes sense.
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