So I've got a CJ7 that I've swapped in a Gen 3 Vortec 5.3/4L60E/D20 using Novaks engine mounts and adapters. Everything is in place however I'm having issues with my front Driveshaft clearing the transmission pan. I've bought my Driveshafts through Tom Woods using the smallest tube they have and it's still not enough. :crying2:
I've been looking at different transmission pans, and I've noticed some people using the Pan off of a Colorado. I've googled and found that the pan off of a H3 looks nice and slanted on the passenger side as well. My only concern is that it wouldn't be enough.
Has anyone done this particular setup and if so, what did you do to the transmission pan to modify it? Am I able to cut one side completely and make it about a 45 degree angle from the mounting flange? I don't think I can move the trans and transfer case over anymore.
Just one of the few problems I'm facing with this swap. Any insight would greatly be appreciated!
I am running a Vortec V6 with the 4l60e. I had major clearance issues as well, and the first thing I tried was notching the pan but I found I still had contact with the pan mounting bolts when the suspension was compressed.
I was using a D300 transfer case but switched to an Atlas because the distance from the center of the input shaft from the transmission to the center of the front output yoke is 1 inch wider then the D300.
This has solved my problem for the most part and is the best I can do short of going full width axles and out boarding my springs or going to a driver drop axle.
Go big right? lol I was hoping to keep the Dana 20 cause it's a stout transfer case. I cracked it open when I had it out and it looked brand new on the inside So I really don't want to swap it. I thought about notching the Pan and possibly lifting the jeep as a whole some more? Maybe go with a 4" suspension lift, a notched pan and hopefully have the clearance I need? I need to get a stock slim pan and just play with it until something works, but figured I'd ask here first if anyone has come up with a solution to this problem.
Been there. 5.3/4L60e ('07 Tahoe) but with the D300. Same problem. For the long story go to post 13 on my build thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/ole-jay-s-cj7-5-3-chevy-swap-1287392/ Short version, if you go the Colorado pan route, get the whole Colorado tranny, otherwise you need a bunch of different internal parts to fit the different pan. Ended up having Tom Woods make me a 2 piece driveshaft. Five years later it is still going strong. But I don't do rocks. Couldn't mount the pillow block to the frame due to the exhaust. It looks really low, but in reality it is the same clearance as the oil pan and skid plate. Picture is with skid plate removed.
Thanks cj7ole! I'm starting to think that's the way it's going to have to be. It's a shame they can't give you back something in return for that other driveshaft. I wish I had known this beforehand or Inwouldnt have bought it..but life goes on. I do like that mounting plate you have made though. I only wish plan on street and mild off-road as well. Not really wanting to crawl over rocks and what not so I think that'll be the way I go. I appreciate the input though.
You have nice brand new driveshaft parts, I would think that you can ship your current shaft back to Tom Woods and it can be shortened for use from the pillow block to the front axle, then you are only paying for the new short shaft and the pillow block.
I would think you would want the pillow block as close to the transfercase output as possible without getting too much angle in the ujoint/pillow block. Once you go over what you are doing with Tom Woods, they will help you get the correct mounting location and lengths.
If you remember, what were your measurements for each section? I ordered a front shaft that was 40.5" I'm curious as to what yours is so I can get a rough idea of where to place the pillow block.
I went the brand new skinny shaft route too. I returned it, but got almost no credit for reusing it, would have been better off selling it on CL. And I ended up with a skinny front section rather than a full size one that would have fit easily. I don't have the exact measurements I gave Tom, but with a tape, I measure the front one at 16" c-c of the u-joints plus 4" back to the pillow block bearing. There is almost no angle at either end.
I have an '84 CJ7 with an LM7 engine, 4L60E trans with the original D300 transfer case. I also had problems with the front drive shaft clearing the trans pan. I bought a modified pan from Novak. They cut out a section of the pan to clear the shaft. It's tight but it does work.
Hmm I may look into that. I hate having already spent money on a driveshaft and it doesn't fit. I plan on getting a stock pan and playing with it to see if I can cut a side down and make it work before I go with a 2 piece design.
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