CJ7 258: How do you fix the Charcoal Canister? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 35 Old 09-21-2008, 10:15 AM
Mike Romain
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant
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Originally Posted by icsssh View Post
I found a new canister for my '86 CJ7. It's an AC Delco, part number AC2-215-12. Not sure what it is actually made for, but it is similar enough in size and shape to the original canister that I was able to slip it into the existing bracket and tighten it down. One caveat: it only has three ports--for the fuel line, the purge vacuum from the carb, and the manifold vacuum from the PCV valve. There is no carb bowl vacuum, so if you need that port it won't work. Since the Weber I have on the Jeep doesn't use the carb bowl vent, it worked perfectly for my application.
Thanks for the follow up!

You can easily just add a T fitting to the gas tank vent line if you need to pick up the float bowl.


Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #32 of 35 Old 09-21-2008, 11:39 AM
NH2112
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Originally Posted by ctm View Post
My 'fix' for a bad canister valve (failed the purge line pinch test) was to plug all the lines except the tank vent. so the canister can still act as the tank vent and filter fumes but it doesn't affect idle.

Or buy a vented fuel cap & plug the tank vent hose.

Phil

'90 YJ w/4.2l & 4.0l head, Weber carb, 5-speed, 4" RC lift, 33x10.5x15 BFG MT KM2s.
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post #33 of 35 Old 09-21-2008, 11:48 AM
NH2112
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Good thread!

FSM's from some other manufacturers say you should 'Dry' out the canister.
Low heat, under 150 degrees, for an extended period of time, like 15 hours.
Those same FSM's have a safety warning to use specific 'Tool Part Number' ovens to dry the canisters in, so I'm not going to buy an oven just to dry out one canister!...

IF the canister it's self is the problem, and it's not damaged externally, you can dry the canisters out, but DO NOT put them in a gas flame oven!

The canisters will off gas fuel vapor as they dry out internally and having them in with an open flame is a BAD IDEA!

An "oven" for storing electrodes will work, and you can make a suitable one using an old metal mailbox w/door. Install an EE-rated fixture and use a 100W bulb - one of the "security" lights with metal cage & glass globe over the bulb is great. Drill a couple small holes in the mailbox to let it vent fumes. You can use it for storing electrodes, drying vapor canisters, or even reactivating desiccant packs.

Phil

'90 YJ w/4.2l & 4.0l head, Weber carb, 5-speed, 4" RC lift, 33x10.5x15 BFG MT KM2s.
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post #34 of 35 Old 06-10-2010, 01:42 PM
Ken4444
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
FSM's from some other manufacturers say you should 'Dry' out the canister.
Low heat, under 150 degrees, for an extended period of time, like 15 hours.
Those same FSM's have a safety warning to use specific 'Tool Part Number' ovens to dry the canisters in, so I'm not going to buy an oven just to dry out one canister!...

If I put my Weber BBQ grill with the lid on in the sun on a hot Houston afternoon, it will easily reach 130 degees from the sun alone. That might be a cheap way to possibly do this, although I don't know if it would hit 150 or not.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #35 of 35 Old 04-22-2013, 04:29 PM
erosman1
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Where can i get a decel value and throttle modulator value
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