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Unread 08-18-2007, 07:09 PM   #1
obscurotron
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CJ7 - 258 exhaust manifold - to - collector studs

The shop that worked on my Jeep did a piss-poor job of putting things back together.

I need a new (preferably longer, too) stud that runs from the flange on the bottom of the exhaust manifold through the flange on the exhaust collector pipe. One of them is in there OK, but the rearward one was barely finger tight and come out in my hands. Where can I order one or two? My google-fu failed me.

At least I found my exhaust leak. I realize this would be the 'wrong' way to fix it, but would a long bolt and nut (stainless) suffice instead?

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Unread 08-18-2007, 07:25 PM   #2
n3480h
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I just fought this battle. Snapped off both studs attempting to unbolt the downtube. Wound up drilling them out - not a great deal of fun. Had to use a 16" long 3/8" bit. I replaced mine with 3/8" stainless bolts. I don't know if there is a drawback to this or not, but they are working fine so far. I dipped them in antiseize just in case.
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Unread 08-18-2007, 07:39 PM   #3
SuB8HaVeN
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I had my gearhead friend that builds drag cars come help me on this issue. I was having the same problem to where some lazy a** installed new exhaust and didn't tighten one of the studs. We had to use a torch to heat the stud/bolt up until they were glowing red, then we were able to take them off. I strongly do not recommend using stainless in this application. I would either go grade 5/8 steel, but preferably, I would recommend going to an auto parts store or exhaust shop and buy some new studs. That's what I did; Auto Zone had everything I needed.
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Unread 08-18-2007, 09:42 PM   #4
Bard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obscurotron
The shop that worked on my Jeep did a piss-poor job of putting things back together.

I need a new (preferably longer, too) stud that runs from the flange on the bottom of the exhaust manifold through the flange on the exhaust collector pipe. One of them is in there OK, but the rearward one was barely finger tight and come out in my hands. Where can I order one or two? My google-fu failed me.

At least I found my exhaust leak. I realize this would be the 'wrong' way to fix it, but would a long bolt and nut (stainless) suffice instead?
Well if it was loose, did you try to tighten the nut first? The exhaust flange bolts use a splined setting carrige bolt into the exhaust frame and donut, then have the nut which I think is called a oblong nut, like a lock washer nut. Name passes me right now. Even with the splines stripped they will tighten. I think a short 9/16 wrench works well at the top. I usually use 2 12" 3/8 extensions, a swivel extension and a 9/16 socket with an impact to get to the nut to tighten it, loosen the outside first a little bit and then tighten the inside first, then go back a snug the outside. If you need a new one or used one, I might have one in my shop, gotta look though. Q-track and 4wd have them as well.
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Unread 08-18-2007, 10:09 PM   #5
obscurotron
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I actually found the right 3/8 stud at OSH, but it will NOT thread into the manifold. The monkey's cross-threaded it bad. I ended up getting a stainless 5/16 nut and bolt and cranked it the hell down, then tightened up the good stud (frontmost one). So far, it's much better. Might be leaking a little, but I can't feel exhaust coming out of the joint like I did before.

What's wrong with using stainless in that application? It'll be easy enough to swap in a grad 5 steel bolt and nut if need be, but I've never heard that stainless in an exhaust system was a bad thing.
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Unread 08-19-2007, 09:41 AM   #6
gosupes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obscurotron
What's wrong with using stainless in that application? It'll be easy enough to swap in a grad 5 steel bolt and nut if need be, but I've never heard that stainless in an exhaust system was a bad thing.
Nothing wrong with it, it's just not as strong as treated G5 or G8 bolts. IMO, you don't need much to hold an exhaust flange together so I would leave it alone as long as it's not leaking.
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Unread 10-04-2013, 01:57 PM   #7
DoubleDown
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I'm having this same issue. The down pipe I installed isn't 'sealing' at the manifold. The nuts on the flange can't get tight enough because the studs are stripped.
The studs on my '83 258 are threaded into the manifold, I was wondering if they can be removed without removing the manifold ?
If so, any ideas would be greatly appreciated
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Unread 10-05-2013, 12:16 PM   #8
DoubleDown
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When I get home from work today I'm gonna try to remove the studs from the manifold using some PB Blaster a Torch and my new set of bolt extracting socket. Hopefully I can back the studs out and replace them without having to remove the manifold. I'll let know how it goes.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Unread 10-05-2013, 12:37 PM   #9
capt205
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I swapped the bad studs out for nuts and bolts on my 258 earlier this Spring. Worked great, no leaks, and I've had it loose or off a couple of times since.
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Unread 10-08-2013, 04:15 PM   #10
DoubleDown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt205
I swapped the bad studs out for nuts and bolts on my 258 earlier this Spring. Worked great, no leaks, and I've had it loose or off a couple of times since.
That's exactly what I want to do !
My question was HOW ?

Can it be done without removing the manifold ?
If so, what the easiest way ?
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