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Unread 12-28-2012, 10:19 PM   #31
2girlsAndaGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk
Best not to assume right now. Try to hunt down were they start by removing all the fuses and use an ohm meter or a continuity tester.

Backing soda usually gets the green crud off but rinse and dry it well.
Probably a stupid question but is there any way to test the circuit from fuse box to wire end without power from the battery?

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Unread 12-29-2012, 04:18 AM   #32
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Yes, pull the fuses out and test it with an OHM Meter or a Continuity tester.

Put one lead from the ohm meter in the fuse socket and then use the other side to find the wire it's connected to.
Or connect one lead from the ohm meter to the end of the wire you are trying to find were it goes and probe around the terminals in the fuse box.

Again you will need to remove all the fuses or everything will look like it's hooked together.

Note there are two terminals for each fuse location, make sure you get the side that goes to the wire you are hunting for.
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Unread 12-29-2012, 11:43 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk
Yes, pull the fuses out and test it with an OHM Meter or a Continuity tester.

Put one lead from the ohm meter in the fuse socket and then use the other side to find the wire it's connected to.
Or connect one lead from the ohm meter to the end of the wire you are trying to find were it goes and probe around the terminals in the fuse box.

Again you will need to remove all the fuses or everything will look like it's hooked together.

Note there are two terminals for each fuse location, make sure you get the side that goes to the wire you are hunting for.

Ok I'll give it a try and see what I come up with.
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Unread 12-29-2012, 07:35 PM   #34
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Ok, so after doing the trick with the ohm meter (pretty slick by the way) this is what I came up with.

the wire I currently have labeled as wiper power was traced back to two locations. The (CLK. HAZ.) and (CLOCK)

The two solid red wires with stock plugs on them were both traced back to the same fuse (IGN. LPS.)

The last one I traced was the solid red with the non stock plug on it (BU/SEAT BELT)
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Unread 12-31-2012, 03:44 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2girlsAndaGuy View Post
Ok, so after doing the trick with the ohm meter (pretty slick by the way) this is what I came up with.

the wire I currently have labeled as wiper power was traced back to two locations. The (CLK. HAZ.) and (CLOCK)
Those are Constant Power. This would be a good one to hook up to your Brake switch.
I assume the single 'CLOCK' means the socket on the fuse box were you plug in the clock harness.

There should be a single wire for your wiper power.
Ends look like this:




Quote:
The two solid red wires with stock plugs on them were both traced back to the same fuse (IGN. LPS.)
Used for Fuel Gauge and Oil Pressure. Also goes to Quadratc and Brake warning light.

Quote:
The last one I traced was the solid red with the non stock plug on it (BU/SEAT BELT)
That fuse does two things.

1: Supplies power to the Backup lights either through the switch in the column if you have an automatic transmission or to the switch on the manual transmission. this last one passes through the firewall to the tranny. These all have some fixed place in the harness to go to and would not be loose in the harness.

2: Supplies power to the cigar lighter. Since it was loose in the harness I assume this wire was originally for the cigar lighter.



Looks like you are missing the wiper switch power or have it miss labeled.
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Unread 12-31-2012, 11:25 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Those are Constant Power. This would be a good one to hook up to your Brake switch.
I assume the single 'CLOCK' means the socket on the fuse box were you plug in the clock harness.

Great, that will clean things up. I went back and looked at some older pictures and the PO just had that power wire plugging into the front of the fuse box in the (CRUISE) spot.


Used for Fuel Gauge and Oil Pressure. Also goes to Quadratc and Brake warning light.

So this is the switched power then? Right now I seem to have identified two switched power wires, how will I make up the difference of the other four that I need?


That fuse does two things.

1: Supplies power to the Backup lights either through the switch in the column if you have an automatic transmission or to the switch on the manual transmission. this last one passes through the firewall to the tranny. These all have some fixed place in the harness to go to and would not be loose in the harness.

2: Supplies power to the cigar lighter. Since it was loose in the harness I assume this wire was originally for the cigar lighter.


That makes sense, I have the ground labeled for the cigar lighter but was missing the power to it.



Looks like you are missing the wiper switch power or have it miss labeled.

Ok after a bit more testing I found a red w/trace that connected back to the (W/WIPER) would this be my wiper power?
comments above.
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Unread 12-31-2012, 01:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk
Those are Constant Power. This would be a good one to hook up to your Brake switch.
I assume the single 'CLOCK' means the socket on the fuse box were you plug in the clock harness.

Great, that will clean things up. I went back and looked at some older pictures and the PO just had that power wire plugging into the front of the fuse box in the (CRUISE) spot.


Used for Fuel Gauge and Oil Pressure. Also goes to Quadratc and Brake warning light.

So this is the switched power then? Right now I seem to have identified two switched power wires, how will I make up the difference of the other four that I need?

Other 4? Other than the radio, an option, I think you got the Turn signals, Wiper/washer, Gauges and heater blower covered already. What other 4 are you looking for?

That fuse does two things.

1: Supplies power to the Backup lights either through the switch in the column if you have an automatic transmission or to the switch on the manual transmission. this last one passes through the firewall to the tranny. These all have some fixed place in the harness to go to and would not be loose in the harness.

2: Supplies power to the cigar lighter. Since it was loose in the harness I assume this wire was originally for the cigar lighter.


That makes sense, I have the ground labeled for the cigar lighter but was missing the power to it.


Looks like you are missing the wiper switch power or have it miss labeled.

Ok after a bit more testing I found a red w/trace that connected back to the (W/WIPER) would this be my wiper power?


Washer/Wiper, yes that is probably the one.

comments above.

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Unread 12-31-2012, 03:07 PM   #38
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On the new dash that I am installing I have autometer gauges for temp, fuel, oil pressure, and a tach that all require a switched power. So I have the power for oil and fuel but am missing it for the other two gauges. I don't know why I said 4 that was my mistake
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Unread 01-01-2013, 05:47 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2girlsAndaGuy
On the new dash that I am installing I have autometer gauges for temp, fuel, oil pressure, and a tach that all require a switched power. So I have the power for oil and fuel but am missing it for the other two gauges. I don't know why I said 4 that was my mistake
Oh I see, you should just splice in some new connectors onto the existing oil pressure and fuel gauge power.
Gauges don't draw too much power so I would try the original fuse to see if it works. If not try a 10 amp fuse. That should be big enough. In 1984 the fuse size was increased to 25 amps to handle the load of the computer so going to 10 amps is not going to risk the wiring or any thing.

You can splice in new terminals or if its easier, just 'Daisy Chain' the connections on gauges.
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Unread 01-01-2013, 11:51 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk

Oh I see, you should just splice in some new connectors onto the existing oil pressure and fuel gauge power.
Gauges don't draw too much power so I would try the original fuse to see if it works. If not try a 10 amp fuse. That should be big enough. In 1984 the fuse size was increased to 25 amps to handle the load of the computer so going to 10 amps is not going to risk the wiring or any thing.

You can splice in new terminals or if its easier, just 'Daisy Chain' the connections on gauges.
Ok that's what I was wondering, just wasn't sure if I would overload that circuit. So that takes care of everything except for radio power which I will need a constant and switched power for. Can I get this somewhere in the fuse box?
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Unread 01-01-2013, 03:00 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2girlsAndaGuy

Ok that's what I was wondering, just wasn't sure if I would overload that circuit. So that takes care of everything except for radio power which I will need a constant and switched power for. Can I get this somewhere in the fuse box?
Ok there are three sockets on the fuse box that are switched. They are marked "Radio", "A/C", and "Cruise"
There is one Constant power and that is marked "Clock", you can plug into any of these.
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Unread 01-03-2013, 04:58 PM   #42
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alright would I plug into the front or back side of the fuse box? Plugging into the back side of the box would make things look cleaner for sure. Also as far as the signal wire goes for my tach can I pull that off the tach plug at the ignition plug, or do I need to go all the way back to the coil? My jeep never had a tach to begin with.
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Unread 01-03-2013, 08:57 PM   #43
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Depends on distributor and tach.

If you have an OEM tach then you can use the tach plugs right off the ignition switch.

If you have an aftermarket tach, then you will have to go all the way back to the coil.

If you are running a DIU distributor with relay then you will have to go all the way to the tach port on the distributor and use an aftermarket tach.



As far as the plugs go, it's on the front. But I bet there sone crimp connection on the back you can use to keep it neat.
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Unread 01-04-2013, 10:31 AM   #44
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thanks John, I'm like the sore in your side that just wont go away.

I have an aftermarket tach, and am running a stock distributor. I'll just run a wire back to the coil then.

I'll have some pictures up this weekend of my progress, ordered 200ft of 14g wire in Orange, Green, Red, and Black. Should give me enough to finish out the rest of the wiring I need to add or extend.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 12:47 PM   #45
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well got everything wired up except the radio power and signal wire to the tach. Turned out pretty good I think. Now I just have to hope that it all fits under the dash as nicely as it lays out on my living room floor.
harness-wiring0.jpg

harness-wiring1.jpg

harness-wiring2.jpg

harness-wiring2a.jpg
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