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Unread 04-11-2014, 07:46 PM   #1
southernfool
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CJ5 Oil Change - I'm never going to live this down

I'm doing my first oil change on a 1979 CJ5, 6 cyl. 258. I really don't want to pour my Rotella down the wrong hole, and I can't for the life of me find a single diagram or picture that shows where to pour the oil on my model. The PO put a Clifford cover on that has made me unsure of what's underneath.

Here's a picture of my CJ with an arrow of the only place I can think of it going. It just seemed weird going under the PCV valve setup. Bragging rights go to the speediest response, as my engine is warm after a long drive and I'm wanting to do this soon. And you're all welcome for the laugh I'm giving you tonight.

oil-change.jpg  
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Unread 04-11-2014, 07:52 PM   #2
kirbot
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Pour it in any of them. They all go the same place
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Unread 04-11-2014, 07:58 PM   #3
Ken4444
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The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. There's no shame in covering the basics, especially if you can avoid a costly mistake! The valve cover is just that: a cover over the valves. Each of the 2 holes in it has a metal plate under it to prevent oil from splashing directly up through the hole. If you pour oil into either of the holes in the valve cover, it runs down through holes the head into the crankcase.

On a different topic, your PCV hose setup, with the "T" coming off what I guess is a PCV valve, is not one I have not seen before. Where do the two hoses from the "T" go?
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Unread 04-11-2014, 10:32 PM   #4
RedNeckCorvette
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That was the first thing I noticed then read the thread. I would like to know also.
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Unread 04-11-2014, 11:15 PM   #5
LumpyGrits
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Move that fuel filter away from the exhaust.
That IS the source of many engine fires in Jeeps.
LG
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Unread 04-12-2014, 04:24 AM   #6
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post

On a different topic, your PCV hose setup, with the "T" coming off what I guess is a PCV valve, is not one I have not seen before. Where do the two hoses from the "T" go?
I have seen a pcv plumbed like that on a couple different 258's Instead of t fitting the canister purge behind the carb, the canister purges right into the top of the PCV valve itself. He showed the plumbing in another thread, looks correct.
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Unread 04-12-2014, 04:53 AM   #7
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
On a different topic, your PCV hose setup, with the "T" coming off what I guess is a PCV valve, is not one I have not seen before. Where do the two hoses from the "T" go?
The FSM vacuum diagrams show that AMC ran the purge line directly to a dual-port PCV valve, as shown in the OP's pic, until 1983. Then they began t-ing the purge off the hose and using a single outlet PCV.

Here's the 1980 49-state layout that shows the dual-port PCV.

Matt
80_258_49_state_mt_stdcool.jpg

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Unread 04-12-2014, 06:37 AM   #8
RedNeckCorvette
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Thank you Matt
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Unread 04-12-2014, 10:14 AM   #9
southernfool
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Thanks for all the great feedback, your comments emboldened me to give it a try.

I took off my breather filter in the back hole and the PCV setup in front hole, drained the oil, and replaced the oil filter. I wasn't expecting what came next. After reading endless posts on oil types for a CJ5, I had decided to go with 5 quarts of Rotella T 15w-40 and 1 quart of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer. The Rotella had a consistency of thick maple syrup. When I poured it in the front hole using a funnel it filled up immediately and began spilling over. I had to dial it way back and pour in about 1/4 cup at a time, then wait 15 seconds for it to sink down. Oil was getting everywhere so I set up red shop rags all around the area to contain the oil frenzy. It looked like how doctors prep an area before surgery, leaving only a small uncovered area. Anyway, I immediately thought something must not be right... how could it take so long to fill up a car with oil? I was wishing I had a 304 just so I would have the oil filler neck. If I rolled into a Jiffy Lube with my CJ5 and asked for a Rotella oil change they would probably call the cops. They must have Wanted posters on the wall of 6 cyl CJ5s that took an hour for their Signature oil change.

I kept up with my 1/4 cup strategy for 10 minutes and then switched to the back hole. It's not easy to pour oil all the way back there... but the good news is that it seemed to take the oil about twice as fast as the front hole. Still very slow. 5 quarts of Rotella took me no less than 30 minutes to pour into the engine. Then I switched to the Lucas oil stabilizer. If Rotella is like maple syrup, then Lucas is like honey. It's no wonder they sell it in a ketchup style bottle to squirt (not pour) out. It took me a full 20 minutes to get 1 quart of Lucas in, and that's alternating between the front and the back hole. So, 50 minutes altogether to put oil in the car! I just had a thought... maybe it would go a lot faster next time if I waited for a hot sunny day and left the Rotella and Lucas out in the sun to get nice and hot before pouring them in. After all, that's the recommendation for draining the old oil out - why not for putting the new oil in too?

I closed everything up and took her out for a 10 mile drive. Oil pressure started at 40 and ended up at 15. Before the change it started at 35 and ended at 5-10.

That's my story. Checked the box on my first oil change, not without some adventure though.
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Unread 04-12-2014, 11:26 AM   #10
strvger01
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glad you got it done. you know that the 15w40 is a summer weight oil, right? way too thick/heavy for your winters there. i use 5w30 here in northern Minnesota winters.
another thought... if this was your first oil change on your jeep, you might have been better off using a much thinner and cheaper oil with new filter and driving it a hundred miles or so to clean it out some. then drain it out along with whatever crud might be in the oil pan. if the oil doesn't look too bad and no metal shavings in it, go to your more expensive rotella. and another new oil filter.
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Unread 04-12-2014, 11:41 AM   #11
sketchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southernfool View Post
So, 50 minutes altogether to put oil in the car!
For reference, my 85 258 will take oil as fast as my screened funnel will let it go using the oil fill hole on the front of the stock rocker cover. With cheap 10W30 I get about the same hot & cold pressure as you, according to the dash gauge.
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Unread 04-12-2014, 12:30 PM   #12
LumpyGrits
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For reference, my 85 258 will take oil as fast as my screened funnel will let it go using the oil fill hole on the front of the stock rocker cover. With cheap 10W30 I get about the same hot & cold pressure as you, according to the dash gauge.
Sure hope your NOT trust'n the OEM ele gauge, to be anywhere near correct.
LG
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Unread 04-12-2014, 12:46 PM   #13
kovic
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I use Rotella T 15-40 also, Im surprised it took you that long to get it in, mine takes it as fast as I pour it. Congrats anyhow, on your first but not last oil change

There is a lot more to come, you will learn a lot just by owning a jeep.

And LG is right, lol I never got around to checking what my pressure is, but its usually reads 40 cold and 20-30 warm on my 6500 mile engine or so. I should probably check it with a gauge that will be accurate lol.

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Unread 04-12-2014, 03:04 PM   #14
sketchy
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Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post

Sure hope your NOT trust'n the OEM ele gauge, to be anywhere near correct.
LG
You lose 10psi just by moving to the passenger seat and looking at it straight on
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Unread 04-12-2014, 07:54 PM   #15
southernfool
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strvger01 View Post
glad you got it done. you know that the 15w40 is a summer weight oil, right? way too thick/heavy for your winters there.
From what I've read, yes. However, this will be a mid-April to mid-October driver, and only on nice days at that. I have no top, no doors, and no plans to get them! It also has some moderate rust here and there so I won't subject it to moisture besides an occasional bath.
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