CJ5 350 Chevy Install in Progress! Help! - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 25 Old 08-04-2010, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
CelticDude
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CJ5 350 Chevy Install in Progress! Help!

1975 CJ5. I bought a mildly built Chevy Vortec 350 and bolted it to a rebuilt 350 Turbo transmission today. Seems like I could move it back at least 10" without any major issues. Should I do that or leave it where it is?

1. http://tinyurl.com/27q7xbl
2. http://tinyurl.com/2e8vrh7

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Jeep CJ5 pictures by Celticdude52 - Photobucket

Thanks for any help!

Doug

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post #2 of 25 Old 08-04-2010, 09:40 PM
NewdRiver_
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Oh yeah, that's going to need to go waaaay back. The waterpump pulley is going to be hitting the radiator.
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post #3 of 25 Old 08-04-2010, 10:15 PM
Coiz
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I agree that needs to be moved back.

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Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #4 of 25 Old 08-04-2010, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
CelticDude
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Actually I put the front end on tonight and I could get away with moving it back about 2" and fit the radiator just fine. Question is; would I benefit from moving it back further?
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post #5 of 25 Old 08-05-2010, 01:46 AM
Performance
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Well no matter what, you are going to have a short driveshaft. So the farther back the motor goes, the shorter the driveshaft and the more angle the driveshaft will be running. But, give yourself plenty of clearence for a fan. It definitly looks like in the pics it needs to go way back.
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post #6 of 25 Old 08-05-2010, 06:08 AM
BESRK
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If I were dropping a SBC/T350 combo into a CJ5, my main concern would be rear driveshaft length/angle. You're not going to have a lot of room for a rear shaft so you don't want to waste space up front.

I'd probably drop the grill/radiator in place and put the fan on the engine. Then, I'd position the drivetrain so there was about 1-1.5 inches between the fan and radiator and mount the drivetrain in place. Probably have to modify/fabricate the tranny crossmember to make it work.

Even scooting the engine forward like that, I think your rear driveshaft is going to be about a foot long or so.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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post #7 of 25 Old 08-05-2010, 06:30 AM
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It you are using a big cap HEI you should put it in place and leave about 1/2" clearance between the cap and firewall. Even with a small cap HEI, you will not be able to run a stock fan and fan clutch. You might get away with a flex fan and small spacer. Electric fan(s) will be the best bet.

I agree, bolt the grill and radiator in place and move the block forward leaving clearance for electric fans and you will minimize the issues with the rear driveshaft.

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #8 of 25 Old 08-05-2010, 06:37 AM
79CJ350
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I agree with what BESRK said. I just sold a 78 cj5 I put a SBC 350 and made the mistake of moving the motor back to far. I then had to cut out my motor mounts and move everything up and go with low profile electric fans with a short nose water pump so that I could fit a drive shaft properly. It was still very short and at to much of an angle for me with only a 4" suspension lift. Also be prepared to use a cv style ujoint.
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post #9 of 25 Old 08-05-2010, 08:02 AM
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Remember what was posted just above: Stick your distributor in there before you set that engine back.

And honestly, I'd worry about drive shaft angle more than where the engine is sitting in a 5. It's not going to make much difference where you put it, once everything physically fits in there.

You're already going to be moving the center of gravity back and making it less nose-heavy than a long 6 cylinder to start with.
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post #10 of 25 Old 08-05-2010, 08:04 AM
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I would allow for a 3-core radiator too.

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #11 of 25 Old 08-05-2010, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like I need to take about 4" off the rear drive shaft.
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post #12 of 25 Old 08-06-2010, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
CelticDude
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I've moved the motor and transmission back quite a bit and everything looks pretty good. Two questions. I need to raise the front of the motor a bit and right now the engine is pretty close to level. How much of an angle can be tolerated? Also, how much offset can you get away with for the rear drive shaft? Thanks for all the replies!
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post #13 of 25 Old 08-06-2010, 08:55 AM
duffer
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For starters, get rid of that long water pump and replace it with the short version. Depending on the motor mounts, you can get by with 3/4" on the fan/radiator clearence without problems. IMO, keep it as far forward as you can.
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post #14 of 25 Old 08-06-2010, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
CelticDude
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Thanks for the input but I think it would be better to keep the engine as far back as possible for a good weight balance. I've posted new pics here:
Jeep CJ5 pictures by Celticdude52 - Photobucket
I had the rear driveshaft shortened by five inches and the front one lengthened by the same amount by Driveshaft Specialists in West Sacramento. I'm hoping to be on the road by Sunday!
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post #15 of 25 Old 08-06-2010, 10:15 PM
Coiz
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Engines are typically angled from 2-10 degrees, rarely are they flat.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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