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Unread 12-09-2009, 01:08 PM   #1
stinsonj
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1953 CJ3A 
 
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CJ3a brake drum removal

Does anyone have any experience removing the stock front brake drums off of a cj3b/a? I am picking up a set of 11" brakes tomorrow and am going to dive into the project this weekend but have read some stuff that kind of scares me. I know you need a drum puller but it sounds like its hard to find the correct one. Anyone have any tips before i start working on it???

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Unread 12-09-2009, 05:43 PM   #2
47redwillys
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You need the puller for the rear drums. The front does need a special socket more than likely unless someone has already chewed the spindle nuts up with a chisel.
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Unread 12-09-2009, 07:37 PM   #3
Jeepfreak81
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I never have used a puller front OR rear -- if you have the 2pc D44 in the back anyway. I DO usually back off the adjusters though a little.
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Unread 12-10-2009, 07:59 AM   #4
Nickmil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinsonj View Post
Does anyone have any experience removing the stock front brake drums off of a cj3b/a? I am picking up a set of 11" brakes tomorrow and am going to dive into the project this weekend but have read some stuff that kind of scares me. I know you need a drum puller but it sounds like its hard to find the correct one. Anyone have any tips before i start working on it???
Check out Earlycj5.com
Mucho info on there on the early CJ's and flatty's. Do a search in the technical forums first then ask questions. I'd offer to help you but I'm buried this weekend with work. If you don't get it done this weekend and need some help e-mail me at nickmiln@aol.com
I live in SE Portland and work in Oregon City.
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Unread 12-10-2009, 08:45 AM   #5
stinsonj
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Thanks man i really appreciate the offer. Ive heard of people just cutting the old brakes off with a cutting torch or a grinder so i think that is the route i will take since im replacing the fronts with 11" brakes anyways. Anything i should know before i start cutting into them tonight?
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Unread 12-10-2009, 11:31 AM   #6
budc
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Getting in there with a cutting torch is a little dangerous. It's been awhile since I did it (I put disks on years ago) but I don't remember any problems getting them off. I've had a hell of a time taking off rear drums on my suburban, though, and I've used both a screw-type drum puller and a slide hammer arrangement.

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Unread 12-10-2009, 03:32 PM   #7
stinsonj
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So im pretty confused now. The guy at les schwab said he would just cut the old ones off, the guy who i bought the brakes from said all i needed was a hub puller and everything would come apart easily, and ive read on the internet that all i need is a drum puller. Ive also heard that i will need a special nut tool or something or a special drum puller because a normal one wont work. Could someone please inform me on how they actually took the old brakes off???
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Unread 12-10-2009, 04:14 PM   #8
ralf
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I borrowed a puller at Autozone. It has 3 jaws that slide over three lugs and are held on by lug nuts. The screw goes against the spindle. Use lots of PB Blaster. I used impact wrench then hit drum with BFH and repeated till it popped off. BE SURE TO THREAD BACK ON THE BIG NUT A FEW TURNS. When they let go they can fly. I did this to my 47 CJ2A a month ago. Put disks on front and 11" drums on back. CJ2a site has lots of tips.
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Unread 12-10-2009, 04:55 PM   #9
stinsonj
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the local napa has a nut type puller and a slide hammer type puller. any sugestions on which one i should buy?
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Unread 12-10-2009, 06:20 PM   #10
Jeepfreak81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinsonj View Post
So im pretty confused now. The guy at les schwab said he would just cut the old ones off, the guy who i bought the brakes from said all i needed was a hub puller and everything would come apart easily, and ive read on the internet that all i need is a drum puller. Ive also heard that i will need a special nut tool or something or a special drum puller because a normal one wont work. Could someone please inform me on how they actually took the old brakes off???
When you remove the lockout (or stock flange) there are large nuts behind it, you need the socket to get these off - it can be done with a punch and a hammer, they should not be very tight but this will F up the nut and the socket is cheap. You can also get them locally. There are also large washers in there and one side will be bent over to lock the nut in place. I can scan my service book in a little while, or take photos of the book if needed.

Original Replacement Parts A692N - Spindle Nut Socket for Jeep® Vehicles - Quadratec

I have NEVER used a drum puller. If I could not get it to come off, I pop the little rubber plug out of the brake drum and back off the adjuster - however this assumes the adjusters are not seized. I still have never neeeded a puller, but I did beat the hell out of some. I ALWAYS antiseize the crap out of the adjuster every time I have drum breaks apart to avoid this isssue entirely.

The following pics are not going to be hugely helpful, but they are the same basic principal and all I have at the moment. These are 11" drums, but my D27 and D25 came apart almost exactly the same.

The last pic shows the hub off, if you have it apart you may as well grease the wheel bearings. ALSO: You MAY not need to remove the hub, I have had some drums that would slide over the lockout and some that wouldn't.





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Last edited by Jeepfreak81; 12-11-2009 at 08:35 AM..
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Unread 12-11-2009, 07:49 AM   #11
ralf
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I really believe old flat fenders are a different animal. I would not buy a hub puller as you can probably borrow one. Download a photo and take it with you to auto parts stores. An old time store is more likely to have one. Most flat fenders don't have adjusting star gears, they use old fashion cam bolts that are usually frozen in place. If you can get them loose, remove the two lower nuts and then try to turn the cam bolt with vice grips on the flat at top of bolt. Leave the upper nuts alone as thew only restrict how far the shoe retracts.
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Unread 12-11-2009, 08:32 AM   #12
Jeepfreak81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralf View Post
I really believe old flat fenders are a different animal. I would not buy a hub puller as you can probably borrow one. Download a photo and take it with you to auto parts stores. An old time store is more likely to have one. Most flat fenders don't have adjusting star gears, they use old fashion cam bolts that are usually frozen in place. If you can get them loose, remove the two lower nuts and then try to turn the cam bolt with vice grips on the flat at top of bolt. Leave the upper nuts alone as thew only restrict how far the shoe retracts.
The ONLY thing weird about an early drum is on the face of the drum there MAY be some screws that hold it to the hub, sometimes these can be hidden by gunk. They are not like the 20's Ford axles that require all kinds of special tools.

There is nothing different about an early axle that REQUIRES you to have a puller it does make it easier though. There are no special tools to take the brake drums off, unless you want the puller - and it can make it easier my experience is I have never needed one. If you can't back offf the adjuster you will probably want the puller, at that age it could have a large ridge on the drum if they were not maintained.

It depends on the year that it is, D25s were used until 1960 and flatfenders could still be had then IE CJ3B. It also would matter if the axle is original or not they are easily swapped for later axles. Shoot it would also depend on how early it is, as some got the MB style front axle

Brake drum and wheel hub removal:

Wheel Hub Removal Tech Tips on The CJ3B Page

Here is the breakdown for adjusting the stock 9" brakes

The CJ2A Owner's Manual

Here is a page and thread on putting 11" drums on a stock axle.

Jeep Brake Upgrade Tips on The CJ3B Page

11 inch brakes on '46 2A - The CJ2A Page Forums
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Unread 12-11-2009, 08:44 AM   #13
stinsonj
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Thanks for everyones help, i really appreciate it. turns out i was getting worrie about nothing. Everything came apart really easily with no special tools in about an hour once i figured it all out. For anyone that plans on removing the brakes in the future, here are the steps i took to get the job done (sorry i dont know the terminology for everything):

1)Remove the hub cap (about (6) 1/2" bolts
2)Remove the locking hub assembly
-is about 2" thick and can easily be pried off with a skrew driver or just pulled off if you are luck
3) Remove the outer axel nut
-If you have the special nut tool, great, if not, you might be lucky enough to find that someone has already put grooves in the nut, enableing you to use a flathead skrewdriver and some light taps of a hammer to remove.
4) Remove the washer and inner axel nut in the same fashion as the outer nut
5)The whole hub should now easily slide off the axel, at least mine did

When i did mine, i removed the brake drum before removing the hub, but come to think of it, it probably would have been a lot easier to remove the drum and the hub all at once. As long as you back the shoes off all the way, everything should slide right off. If it doesnt, tap it with a hammer a couple of times. Once the hub and drum are removed, everything else just unbolts and the new brakes should bolt right up.

Another minor problem i had was that the brakes were ever so slightly too big for my stock wheels. At least on my wheels, there is a little lip on the inside that wsa barely catching the brake, not allowing it to go on all the way. I beat on it with a big ole hammer for about 2 min to flatten it out and now everything fits perfect Hope this helps anyone that is thinking of doing the same swap
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Unread 12-11-2009, 09:52 AM   #14
ralf
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Was it the Backing Plate that you adjusted with the BFH? The plate that everything bolts up to.
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Unread 12-11-2009, 10:25 AM   #15
stinsonj
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Nope the backing plate should come right off, at least mine did, once i removed the 6 bolts that were holding it on. The actual drum itself is what i was hitting with a hammer to loosen it up from the shoes. If you can back those shoes off all the way, you shouldnt really have a problem

Last edited by stinsonj; 12-11-2009 at 10:49 AM..
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