CJ wiring from scratch

Roadymi · 05-12-2010, 07:28 PM

I sure hope somebody can point me in the right direction. I've tried searching but I just get more and more confused. My project is nearing completion and I am out of cash. I am scheduled to go on a trail ride in a few weeks and I need to get this thing running.

I just need the basics to get it running.......ignition and alternator. I plan on just putting in a push button starter switch. I have a 360 with most of a team rush upgrade. I've done the cap & rotor, MSD wires, Ford E-core coil. I really want to get the MSD module but I'm not sure I'll have the money. I remember seeing how to make your own module with GM part but I can't find the post on here now that I need it. I do have an old OEM jeep module but I have no clue if it is any good.

If somebody (JeepHammer please be watching) could point me to a link with a wiring diagram to properly route the wires for ignition and alternator I would be forever grateful. Any other pointers such as, if I need a resistor wire would also certainly be appreciated. This is a trail only rig so I need nothing fancy just reliable.

**JeepHammer** · 05-13-2010, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadymi

I sure hope somebody can point me in the right direction. I've tried searching but I just get more and more confused. My project is nearing completion and I am out of cash. I am scheduled to go on a trail ride in a few weeks and I need to get this thing running.

I just need the basics to get it running.......ignition and alternator. I plan on just putting in a push button starter switch. I have a 360 with most of a team rush upgrade. I've done the cap & rotor, MSD wires, Ford E-core coil. I really want to get the MSD module but I'm not sure I'll have the money. I remember seeing how to make your own module with GM part but I can't find the post on here now that I need it. I do have an old OEM jeep module but I have no clue if it is any good.

If somebody (JeepHammer please be watching) could point me to a link with a wiring diagram to properly route the wires for ignition and alternator I would be forever grateful. Any other pointers such as, if I need a resistor wire would also certainly be appreciated. This is a trail only rig so I need nothing fancy just reliable.

DO NOT leave the fusible link out of the next circuit connections!
$5 is a small price to pay for making sure you vehicle doesn't burn down!

Basic Starter/Alternator with dedicated Grounds.
Notice the Green & White bolt in the fender for dedicated grounds for later projects, like grounding the ignition, front & rear lights, dash board, ect.

This is the EASIEST way to wire up the regulator on the alternator I know...

Slightly more complicated, but better for the alternator in the long run.

-----------------------------------------------------------

IGNITION...

What module do you want to use?
You can go with the DuraSpark used from '78 to '86,
You can go with a GM style HEI module (no resistor/wire),
Either one will work fine with the Jeep/Motorcraft distirbutor used from '78 to '86 in CJs.

Factory DuraSpark '78-'86

------------------------

Simplified using GM style HEI module,

REMEMBER!
That HEI style module makes a LOT of heat, and you WILL have to mount it on something that will remove that heat or the module will fail!
I use old computer processor heat sinks to do the job, and they work fine, and are cheap,
But mounting them on a large aluminum plate or copper plate will suck the heat out also,
Just depends on what you have laying around.

And you CAN use the old connectors from the harness to make things easier to work with.
I don't show connectors very often, but if you want them, use them.

**JeepHammer** · 05-13-2010, 07:26 AM

Let me know when you get closer to installing the ignition,
I'll give you some tips that will make wiring it work better for you...

Roadymi · 05-13-2010, 04:48 PM

Jeep Hammer......you are my hero. Thanks so much. I'll get back to you when I am ready for the next step.

Roadymi · 05-13-2010, 05:07 PM

What is the purpose of the diode for the alternator wiring?

What function does the indicator lamp for alternator circuit serve?

I am going with the GM HEI Module. Still working on heat sync source.

turbogus · 05-13-2010, 05:31 PM

If you're looking for factory style connectors and don't want to plunk down the kazooks for Painless Wirings' solution, I've made repairs on mine with units from Delphi and what's more on most items we can order by the each. Here's one I used for example, open the .tif file under Prints Documents tab DCSTitle

**JeepHammer** · 05-13-2010, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadymi

What is the purpose of the diode for the alternator wiring?

Since the 'Excite' terminal on the alternator is connected to the ignition source,
When the alternator is charging it will back feed the ignition circuit, and you won't be able to shut the engine off.

The diode is a one way 'Valve' for electricity,
It lets the ignition current get to the excite circuit, but keeps it from back feeding the ignition circuit once the alternator starts charging.
A package of two is about $1.50.

Quote:

What function does the indicator lamp for alternator circuit serve?

It's an 'Idiot Light'.
I run them on everything for oil pressure, over temprature and charging system.
I don't look at gauges when I'm wheeling, so a lamp and/or buzzer gets my attention when the alternator quits (like when I pack it full of mud!),
Or when the engine temp gets too high or the oil pressure gets too low... (Light & Buzzer time! Immediate shut down required).

You run a power source from the ignition switch to the lamp,
Then run the other lamp wire to the excite circuit (with diode) and the indicator lamp will tell you when the alternator is NOT charging.
You need an ISOLATED lamp holder that has both positive and negative wires coming out of it.
Many lamp sockets have one wire and are grounded though the holder frame,
Those won't work.

Radio Shack has them for cheap, around $2.00 each if you want to go that route.

Quote:

I am going with the GM HEI Module. Still working on heat sync source.

Heat sink can be anything from a hunk of aluminum (Thick) to a beer can laid out flat with 'Fingers' cut in the surrounding aluminum to dissipate heat.

Roadymi · 05-13-2010, 08:11 PM

I made good headway tonight, I got starter and starter solenoid all wired in. I got the alternator mostly wired in except for the dedicated ground and the excite circuit to the ignition. I need to locate a Radio Shack for the diode. They have closed all the ones in the small towns around here. I laid my solder down and durned if I can find it. Gosh I hate gettin old. Maybe that's a sign it's time to clean the shop? I'm hoping to get to the HEI module tomorrow night if you would have time to detail that a little more. I see you have a condensor tied in, I might need some explanation there and and a source.

Roadymi · 05-14-2010, 08:45 PM

I don't have a plug to match up to the plug on my distributor so I guess I will just wire it direct unless someone has suggestions for readily accessible plug for cheap.

I see that I will run the orange and purple wires to the GM HEI module. What is the green wire for? Is it a ground?

I found a diode and got it installed. I spent most of the evening making and installing dedicated grounds. Boy Hammer......you sure like your grounds.

Starter, alternator, both heads are grounded. Do I need to run one to the base of the distributor? Can't hurt I guess.

**JeepHammer** · 05-14-2010, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadymi

I don't have a plug to match up to the plug on my distributor so I guess I will just wire it direct unless someone has suggestions for readily accessible plug for cheap.

I see that I will run the orange and purple wires to the GM HEI module. What is the green wire for? Is it a ground?

I found a diode and got it installed. I spent most of the evening making and installing dedicated grounds. Boy Hammer......you sure like your grounds.

Starter, alternator, both heads are grounded. Do I need to run one to the base of the distributor? Can't hurt I guess.

Nope, the coil 'Grounds' though the HEI module,
And the module 'Grounds' through a retainer bolt.
Just make sure your bolt has a ground wire on the back and it's good to go.

You would not believe how many problems you WON'T HAVE by using dedicated grounds.

The military requires them, and those vehicles run for years and years without having to mess with the wiring harness.

Besides, if 'Positive' is going 'IN',
You should have a 'Ground' going 'OUT'...
It's just as important as having the 'Positive' getting to the load/accessory/appliance!

Let me know what you can't find, and I'll try and come up with a part number for you...

For your distributor,
You won't change that stator coil (Trigger) once every 25 years,
So you can hard wire it without snap connectors with no issues.

JUST REMEMBER TO TWIST THOSE TWO WIRES AROUND EACH OTHER,
THEN KEEP THEM AWAY FROM THE COIL OR SPARK PLUG WIRES!

It's best if you run the trigger wires close to metal,
Engine block, sheet metal, ect.
And keep them away from high voltage wires (Spark Plug Wires, Ignition Coil) and from 'Pulsing' current wires, (Ignition coil wires, heater motor wires, turns signal wires, ect.).

That trigger wire set works at VERY low voltage,
So the INDUCTION (electrical induction) will case false triggers if you don't wrap them around each other and keep them away from coil wires/spark plug wires.
I've also seen heater motors, turn signals, anything that 'Pulses' as it works make false triggers in the stator circuit... It's VERY sensitive...

Other than that, the wiring is pretty straight forward, pretty much like you see in the diagrams.

**VACJ7** · 05-14-2010, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadymi

I don't have a plug to match up to the plug on my distributor so I guess I will just wire it direct unless someone has suggestions for readily accessible plug for cheap.

Does it have the three wire plug like in Hammer's pic above? You can get those plugs off an old ford at the junk yard. Pretty sure that's where I found mine.

alex211 · 05-14-2010, 09:17 PM

I would buy this kit though instead of completely starting from scratch. For $100 you get a fuse block, fuel pump relay, and some wire. I bought one and it is a nice setup.

Universal 14 circuit wiring harness.

Roadymi · 05-15-2010, 06:16 AM

JH, You previously mentioned letting you know when I was ready to do ignition circuit because you had some more hot tips for me.......the time has come.

I'm heading out to the shop now to build my homemade GM based module. I have a bunch of copper tubing. I plan to cut these to length to fit in my little radio shack box and solder them together side by side to make my heat sync.
I was thinking that if I drilled holes through the end walls of the box and let the tubes extend through slightly that this would allow for airflow through tubes and more cooling. I'll post pics when I get my module built.

turbogus · 05-15-2010, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbogus

If you're looking for factory style connectors and don't want to plunk down the kazooks for Painless Wirings' solution, I've made repairs on mine with units from Delphi and what's more on most items we can order by the each. Here's one I used for example, open the .tif file under Prints Documents tab DCSTitle

If you have time I highly reccomend you check out Delphi

Roadymi · 05-15-2010, 01:31 PM

Sorry for crappy pictures but here is my homemade ignition module thanks to Jepp Hammers guidance.

I used a plastic box from Radio Shack. I made heat sync from 1/2" copper tube.

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