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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:57 AM   #16
AFRd_CJ5
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I run a Jegs universal aluminum 2 core radiator in mine. Several others around here run the same. Never had an issue with overheating, even on the nasty hot days at the sand dunes.

radiator.jpg

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Unread 09-30-2013, 11:02 AM   #17
AFRd_CJ5
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Here's another picture a little more "uncovered". You can better see what was cut out of the grill to make it fit, and how it sets in the frame.
radiator2.jpg

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'76 CJ5
434 pump gas SBC with an NX/HVH plate system
th350/Coan 5,000 converter/Dana 300 tcase
Dana 30 front with 4.56's/Dana 44 rear with 4.88's
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Unread 09-30-2013, 11:35 AM   #18
SLO_Ken
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The Spectra CU583 is a copper 3-core direct replacement radiator. Available at Autozone, Amazon.com, Pep Boys, Summit, and other places, for ~$180.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 12:46 PM   #19
bobzdar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
Called Advanced in NM (no Advanced here) and the one for that yr etc was a two core-that is all he could tell me.

Matt-passed on the Ebay link.
Here's the link to the one I put in mine:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...tor#fragment-2

Look under specs for row quantity.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 08:06 PM   #20
Pacfanweb
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The long and short of it:

Short: It depends on the particular radiator.

Lone: Copper absolutely is better at exchanging heat than aluminum....but that doesn't mean every copper radiator is better than every aluminum radiator.

The difference is this: Aluminum is stronger, so the "rows" can be BIGGER.....so bigger rows, or tubes, have more area to exchange heat, so that makes up for its inferior heat exchange properties.

That's why you see places that claim a 2 row aluminum radiator cools as well or better than a 4 row copper; There's probably more water going through the 2 rows in the aluminum because they're so much bigger.

So theoretically speaking, if you built two absolutely identical radiators, the copper one would be better, but the point of aluminum is, you don't have to make it just like the copper one. You can make it with fewer, but larger rows, and it's lighter. Plus, it looks cooler, too.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 11:27 PM   #21
Rollbar
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Hahaha-Thanks guys for all the help/pics.


Question on the bar going to the firewall/frame-Is that tied in to a roll bar or ?


Thanks again everyone,
Jim
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Unread 10-01-2013, 04:14 AM   #22
AFRd_CJ5
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Jim,
Currently no. I needed to get the motor plates in, but didn't have time to move all the ignition stuff under the dash, which is right in the way of where the bars would go. And I am going to redo my whole top rollbar setup (I hate it), so I was waiting until I did that to tie it in.
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'76 CJ5
434 pump gas SBC with an NX/HVH plate system
th350/Coan 5,000 converter/Dana 300 tcase
Dana 30 front with 4.56's/Dana 44 rear with 4.88's
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Unread 10-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #23
rainjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Jim,

I went with the Champion 3-row aluminum radiator on my 360.

It's worked fine, so far.

Matt
I ordered this same exact 3 core radiator and im having fitting problems with the stock fan. Did you have this problem?
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Unread 10-28-2013, 11:22 AM   #24
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainjeep View Post
I ordered this same exact 3 core radiator and im having fitting problems with the stock fan. Did you have this problem?
It fit like a glove with my 360. There's about 1-1/2" of clearance with a mechanical fan and fan clutch.

What problems are you having?

Matt
radiator3.jpg  
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Unread 10-28-2013, 01:59 PM   #25
LumpyGrits
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Can't 're-core' an alum. rad. like you can a brass one.
Can't re-solder or do a 'rod-out' with alum like you can with brass.
Most alum. rad's won't work with a shroud.
Why don't you just re-core the brass one, and save some $$$$?
LG
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Unread 10-28-2013, 04:20 PM   #26
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Most alum. rad's won't work with a shroud.
LG
My shroud bolted right up to my aluminum radiator.

Which models are you talking about, LG?

Matt
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Unread 10-28-2013, 04:34 PM   #27
LumpyGrits
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Matt, I don't recall the brand. My CRS has the better of me now........
Your set-up looks very 'clean'.
Wish to god, I could weld like that!
LG
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Unread 10-28-2013, 04:57 PM   #28
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Matt, I don't recall the brand. My CRS has the better of me now........ LG
Then how can you claim that "most alum. rad's won't work with a shroud"? Perhaps you should edit that comment.

If the radiator uses the (4) factory mounting holes, then a factory shroud will work as well, since they use the same holes.

There are pros and cons to both aluminum and brass. The user has to decide which are the most important to him. I see no reason to fabricate problems, with either variety, that don't exist.

Matt
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Unread 10-28-2013, 05:08 PM   #29
LumpyGrits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Then how can you claim that "most alum. rad's won't work with a shroud"? Perhaps you should edit that comment.

If the radiator uses the (4) factory mounting holes, then a factory shroud will work as well, since they use the same holes.

There are pros and cons to both aluminum and brass. The user has to decide which are the most important to him. I see no reason to fabricate problems, with either variety, that don't exist.

Matt
Some of the alum rad's I have seen, have a large gap between the back of the 'fins' and the front of the shroud. Along with other gaps that make the shroud, all but useless. That 's what I mean, in my "won't work" remark.
LG
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Unread 10-28-2013, 05:57 PM   #30
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Some of the alum rad's I have seen, have a large gap between the back of the 'fins' and the front of the shroud. Along with other gaps that make the shroud, all but useless. That 's what I mean, in my "won't work" remark.
LG
So what you really meant to say was you once saw an aluminum radiator that didn't work well with a shroud, not "most....'.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Matt
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