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09-04-2007, 03:13 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northeast, MS
Posts: 651
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I guess I am going to have to poney up for the membership so I can search and quite asking so many ?? But while my check is in the mail What have you guys been doing for rocker protection. I don't really want to drill holes in the side of the body. I would like something of a nerf bar that can double as a step but does not compromise too much ground clearance. I was something that I could bolt to the frame or clamp on using two 1/4 inch still plates. Pics would be great. thanks jc
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80 CJ-7 Straight six,comp cam,4.0 head, cherokee header, DUI distributor, Affordable FI TBI ,4.10's wide track amc 20 aussie locked and trussed, Dana 30 aussie locked, PSC steering box, 4.5 RE lift, twin sticked dana 300 with Lo max 4to1 35"STT'S ON DC-1 "It's getting there"
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09-04-2007, 05:06 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 2,897
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All the rocker protection I've seen worth it's spit requires u to drill into the tub.
Nerf bars (my opinion only) look terrible... all tube fenders in my opinion are just ugly, but hey, that's just me. Besides the looks, tube nerfs definitely cost you on clearance.
So if you're going to wheel this, get something like 4xdoctor rocker guards...if you're just muddin and you want to go cheaper, I guess nerfs would do what you want.
A lot of quality quards come with a side step.
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09-04-2007, 05:38 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
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Bolts break, welds hold is my experience. I know what you mean by not wanting to drill in the body, but once it is on, you will forget about it and when you hit that first rock, you will be glad you did where the typical Jeep w/o has a nice bent panel or two. Jeepskate has a nice set either he bought or fabricated. Check his site.
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85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
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09-04-2007, 09:58 PM
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#4
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,700
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I have Shrockworks guards on my rigs. Nerf bars tend to be fairly useless for anything other than a step that robs ground clearance and can actually end up getting smashed up into your rocker panels. If you don't want to go into the body, look for some rocker skids...I forget manufacturers off hand as they're not as common as they once had started to become...Tomken is popping out of my head and I think 4xDoctor may still have something. They mount to the frame like nerfs do, but are higher clearance and more durable.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
http://www.jeepskate.net
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09-04-2007, 11:30 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 719
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I built these myself about 6-7 years ago. I have given them the hard drop test onto rocks and rubs around trees many, many times. They have never bent or moved near as I can tell with a tape measure, and I've checked many times.
They are 3/16 thick 2"x3" box tubing welded directly to the frame in the front and rear. The front stub was slightly notched to mount flush to the frame and body mount. Sure, I lose a little clearance, but it really hasn't mattered all that much here in the PNW. In complete rockland locales like the SW, this might be a different story.
If you go with any covering rocker protection like you see on my jeep, spend an extra $40 bucks and go to Napa and get some paint on body liner. It lines the body mating surfaces you see here and each bolt hole is also lined with it. I tipped the jeep over last summer and blasted the windshield and put a nice dent in the RR corner. I took the aluminum diamond plate off to pound out the the dents and straigten things up a bit. After them being on about as long as my welded nerfs you see here, there was no rust whatsoever. I was pleasantly surprised. There was however, about 1/16" of solid muck, sand and grime in there from 6-7 years of wreck-reational wheeling and pressure washing like cleanup. But no rust, seriously, not one bubble. Get that stuff, Duplicolor is the brand I used, but many companies offer the same type of product.
Do not use on fresh paint, the acetone in the product will foul it up, I promise. I got some bubbles in my repair and had some issues. Stock paint, no problems.
Last edited by jeepmor; 09-04-2007 at 11:42 PM..
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09-05-2007, 12:25 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: U.S.
Posts: 583
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Last edited by T18A; 05-16-2008 at 07:18 PM..
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09-05-2007, 07:49 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northeast, MS
Posts: 651
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jeepmor, I like the looks of those, I don't really mind welding onto my frame, I am not going to be doing any serious rock crawling (for now). I have seen the Tomken brand and thought about fabbing up something similar to those, any one made any out of round tubing if so what size and thickness. thanks jc
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80 CJ-7 Straight six,comp cam,4.0 head, cherokee header, DUI distributor, Affordable FI TBI ,4.10's wide track amc 20 aussie locked and trussed, Dana 30 aussie locked, PSC steering box, 4.5 RE lift, twin sticked dana 300 with Lo max 4to1 35"STT'S ON DC-1 "It's getting there"
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09-05-2007, 08:14 AM
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#8
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,700
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by T18A
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Ah, yes...those were the ones I was thinking of.
Aero, take a look at Olympic's Reverse-a-bar if they still make them...that's the same basic design for the tubular type that 4x4 Doctor at least used to make, but his are heavier duty than those...should give you some ideas for going tubular...here ya' go...he only does them special order for YJ's now because they don't sell much anymore:
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
http://www.jeepskate.net
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09-08-2007, 02:13 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 719
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Round tube nerfs
Most of the homebuilt/shopbuilt round tube nerfs I have seen have employed .120 tubing, about 2"-2-1/2" diameter. They have taken their licks and survived well. If I were to do mine over, I would go with the thinner 1/4" thick tubing, maybe even the 1/8" (0.125). However, the 3/16" thick wall was what was available at the time.
As for how to fab and notch round tubing without a true notcher, (if you don't have one) do a search on pirate4x4.com. There is an excellent write up on the subject and it should prove very helpful.
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