CJ power brake upgrade - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 47 Old 12-14-2009, 05:39 PM
mcurcio1989
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1976 CJ7 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jatepper View Post

I remember when I did the upgrade and test drove the jeep around the neighborhood..... the first tap of the brakes almost sent me through the windshield
Oh yeah mine is unbelievable. The only resistance i have is from the spring on the pedal. The first week i had a really sore stomach from my seat belt. I have a hard time driving other vehicles now cause i don;t press the brake enough.


Disregard everything i say

I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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post #32 of 47 Old 12-14-2009, 08:17 PM
Mudviper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcurcio1989 View Post
Oh yeah mine is unbelievable. The only resistance i have is from the spring on the pedal. The first week i had a really sore stomach from my seat belt. I have a hard time driving other vehicles now cause i don;t press the brake enough.
If the braking power is that good, wouldn't it be a bit over kill to go to a duel diaphragm booster? Would appear it could be a bit dangerous in slick conditions stopping to fast and hard?
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post #33 of 47 Old 12-14-2009, 08:40 PM
mcurcio1989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudviper View Post
If the braking power is that good, wouldn't it be a bit over kill to go to a duel diaphragm booster? Would appear it could be a bit dangerous in slick conditions stopping to fast and hard?
The way i see it its all what your used to. I have never had a problem with them now that i am used to them. I can feel them just fine. Its really all relative.

Disregard everything i say

I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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post #34 of 47 Old 12-15-2009, 04:15 PM
jatepper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudviper View Post
If the braking power is that good, wouldn't it be a bit over kill to go to a duel diaphragm booster? Would appear it could be a bit dangerous in slick conditions stopping to fast and hard?
I dont know about "overkill". I have done the install with a non-dual diaphram booster and the power feels just as good as it does with the dual booster. In my opinion, the main advantage was having the fittings on the driver side like your original standard booster has them set up. Makes installation a breeze.

Currently Jeepless!
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post #35 of 47 Old 03-25-2010, 09:46 PM
sbcranger
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trying to figure out what im going to do about my brakes and this seems like it maybe a step in the right direction. is there anything else needed besides the power brake booster and the MC out of a '95 6 Cyl YJ? anything i have to do to the brackets? planning on doing the rear disc conversion down the line, will this be sufficient?
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post #36 of 47 Old 03-25-2010, 10:37 PM
jeepmor
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Quote:
95 YJ dual diaphragm brake booster will not work with the 87 to 94 YJ and 95 4 cyl YJ master cylinders. You have to use the 95 YJ (6 cyl specific) master cylinder with the dual diaphragm brake booster.
Please elaborate as to why?

Glad to hear folks are happy with their YJ booster upgrades. I still despise mine and plan on calling Vanco back for the full meal deal setup since mine provides little to no stiffening as the pedal is pressed. Don't get me wrong, it's plenty safe, but also plenty sensitive. In a panic stop, it bottoms out, then becomes a manual style brake with little pedal movement but lots of foot pressure to modulate it. This is why I am disappointed. All other brakes I've used, power or not, have provided ample pedal feedback to modulate them more easily.
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post #37 of 47 Old 08-16-2012, 09:39 PM
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So I just did the boneyard hydroboost. Purchased a Mustang Hydroboost/master cylinder. It seems to be 2000 but could be 1996-????. Then I took the half hoses that came with it (severed by sharp knife) and my existing CJ hoses and got them lengthened and joined. Then I had some hard lines made from 4ft standard brake lines. Then I took everything that was old and existing off and added everything new back in it's place.

Pointers: Use a vice to remove the existing metal firewall plate from the hydroboost. The nut is a weird shape, almost square, and I had to angle grind the old mustang firewall plate to get to it. Either way, it comes off.... you will need to remove a big circlip to remove the nut fully.

Then....make sure your adapter (mikes?) plate and hydroboost line up fully - i.e. it is a central plate, not offset.

Attach the new 'stuff' to the firewall. Feel good, open a cold one!

Now (my) hardest part - removing the hard lines from the proportioning valve; tip I got from VANCO (thankyou so much ) try to tighten the hard lines with a 4-5" (non vice-hrip) wrench. THEN try to loosen. It finally worked but nearly killed me!

If you are making your own/having yourt own hard lines made....just take a small dremel / hack saw and sever the ahrd line no more than an inch above the nut. ... REMOVE the nut with a long socket.

Bend NEW hard lines to fit the space available. attach at both ends, bleed and be done.

I can now stop - no word of a lie - within seconds of applying the pedal. BEFORE this, I had NO power brakes and had to predict traffic a week ahead of time.

For $300 +/- it was an awesome most noticeable upgrade I have attempted and succeeded!

Get the parts.... dive in.... don't look back.

OK?
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post #38 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 07:09 AM
imzaza
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Old thread question.

Getting ready to do this upgrade on my CJ7. Have a 95 4cyl donor power brake setup. Its a frame off resto/upgrade on the CJ. Have everything to bend new lines. Before i get started, i need to know which proportioning valve should I use? Are there any differences? The CJ valve mounts to the frame and the YJ is suspended by the lines. Function is main concern. Although the frame mount would be easier due to tub being off.
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post #39 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 07:30 AM
billybooster2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imzaza
Old thread question.

Getting ready to do this upgrade on my CJ7. Have a 95 4cyl donor power brake setup. Its a frame off resto/upgrade on the CJ. Have everything to bend new lines. Before i get started, i need to know which proportioning valve should I use? Are there any differences? The CJ valve mounts to the frame and the YJ is suspended by the lines. Function is main concern. Although the frame mount would be easier due to tub being off.
If you are using drum and disks a la cj, then go with cj
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post #40 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 07:56 AM
imzaza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybooster2 View Post
If you are using drum and disks a la cj, then go with cj
Will do.

For some future knowledge, what's the functional difference? If any.

Thanks for the help.
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post #41 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 09:13 AM
brownbagg
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Just get an adjustable from wildwood or russell
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post #42 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 11:21 AM
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Proportioning valves come in three flavors based on front/back brake configs.

drum/drum ---old, old school stuff, but I'm sure you can find them.
disk/drum --- CJ stock valve works here or similar donor
disk/disk ---- newer stuff with all disks could be used as donor

I installed a YJ booster and a Vanco corvette M/C on my jeep and I think my brakes now SUCK. The pedal is squishy and I miss my manual brakes. Brakes work, but are too sensitive, bottom out too soon and become manual on a panic stop and otherwise SUCK.
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post #43 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 11:26 AM
billybooster2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmor
Proportioning valves come in three flavors based on front/back brake configs.

drum/drum ---old, old school stuff, but I'm sure you can find them.
disk/drum --- CJ stock valve works here or similar donor
disk/disk ---- newer stuff with all disks could be used as donor

I installed a YJ booster and a Vanco corvette M/C on my jeep and I think my brakes now SUCK. The pedal is squishy and I miss my manual brakes. Brakes work, but are too sensitive, bottom out too soon and become manual on a panic stop and otherwise SUCK.
Maybe you need a smaller bore mc
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post #44 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 11:31 AM
jeepmor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybooster2 View Post
Maybe you need a smaller bore mc
A bigger bore will move more fluid with a reduced stroke. I drove my buddies 95 Wrangler before and his brakes were the same. I should have known, but I bought the parts and swapped it out. My mistake.
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post #45 of 47 Old 07-03-2013, 12:36 PM
motiv8ya
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This is the route I went with my new build. All new parts and brackets. Bench bleed, install, and done.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-1986-je...d57f18&vxp=mtr
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